Gucci Belt 90 36

Long before trend-bucking creative director Alessandro Michele brought his hallucinatory “Utopian Fantasy” campaign to Gucci, it was a modest Italian leather shop. Today, it’s an internationally renowned luxury house with an iconic logo, and vintage Gucci clothing, handbags and shoes are among high fashion's most covetable goods.

Guccio Gucci (1881–1953) admired the stylish suitcases he saw wealthy guests arrive with at the Savoy Hotel in London, where he worked as a bellhop. So, in 1921, after a stint at Franzi, a luggage company in his hometown of Florence, he opened a leather goods shop of his own.

At first, Gucci’s Florence business specialized in equestrian accessories. But as its reputation flourished, particularly among the English aristocracy, so too did its footprint. In 1938, he brought three of his sons — Aldo, Vasco and Rodolfo — into the business and expanded it to Rome and later Milan. In the mid-1930s, a League of Nations embargo against Italy pushed Gucci to experiment with alternatives to imported leather. Its woven hemp fabric from Naples, adorned with the brand’s signature diamond print, was a hit, especially among A-list celebrities. The material was first used on suitcases before finding enduring popularity on handbags. (No list of revered designer purses would be complete without Gucci.)

In the 1950s, Elizabeth Taylor carried one of Gucci’s bamboo-handled tote bags, another adaptation to material rationing. After Jackie Kennedy was seen sporting a slouchy Gucci tote in 1961, it was renamed for the First Lady. Then Grace Kelly, on a visit to the boutique in Milan, inspired Rodolfo Gucci to work with Italian illustrator and Gucci textile designer Vittorio Accornero on the Flora print in 1966. Taking cues from Sandro Botticelli’s Primavera, with its pattern of flora and insects, it was painted entirely by hand and featured no fewer than 37 colors.

In 1953, just 15 days after opening his first store on New York’s 5th Avenue, Guccio passed away at 72. The early 1970s saw store openings in Tokyo and Hong Kong, but by the late 1980s, Gucci was floundering. Rodolfo Gucci took charge in 1982, but family drama and lawsuits ensued. In 1993, Rodolfo’s son, Maurizio, transferred his shares in the company to Investcorp, ending the family’s involvement in Gucci. Dawn Mello, then-president of Bergdorf Goodman, joined as creative director in 1989. But it was Tom Ford, who took over as creative director in 1994, who ultimately revived the brand.

Ford’s racy ads, shot by photographers such as Mario Testino, stirred controversy. And his potent vision of sexed-up femininity — with “jewel-toned satin shirts unbuttoned to there,” as Vogue described his breakthrough 1995 runway show — was wildly successful. The new millennium brought new ownership — Pinault Printemps Redoute in 2004 — and a more toned-down vision from Frida Giannini, who became sole creative director in 2006. Alessandro Michele was named creative director in 2015, and the storied brand took a giant leap forward.

Find vintage Gucci clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.

Belts are far more than practical. Vintage and designer belts can prove pivotal to your ensemble, elevating even the most basic outfit with a modest dose of flair or, alternatively, outright flamboyance.

On 1stDibs, an extensive collection of modern and vintage belts can be found in a variety of styles and materials, including everything from iconic Gucci logo belts, which, emblazoned with the legendary Italian brand’s “GG” insignia, are ubiquitous among fashion lovers today, to stylish Hermès belts, which are part of a wide range of covetable leather fashion accessories from the family-owned luxury goods company. The interchangeable gold-plated belt buckle, now available in innumerable variations, is revered by Hermès enthusiasts. The world’s legion of collectors hunting down rare Kelly bags likely know this belt buckle and its history, which extends all the way back to 1967. It was crafted by Hungarian-born French fashion designer Catherine de Károlyi, who worked for Robert Piguet and Christian Dior before landing at Hermès, where she also designed the house’s first women’s ready-to-wear collection.

More akin to fine jewelry than to a practical fashion accessory, a vintage chain belt by Chanel can add understated charm to a blazer, cocktail dress or most any other garment, while a wide Louis Vuitton belt, on the other hand, made in the celebrated brand’s signature bold Damier Azur canvas, will bring pizzazz and panache to your formal wear.

Whether you’re looking to accessorize with simplicity or potentially stop traffic, find a variety of vintage and designer belts on 1stDibs.