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Rte Sgdg

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Cartier Paris circa 1925 Art Deco Black Onyx Diamond Topiary Jabot Brooch
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
• Signed Cartier, no. 07902, RTÉ SGDG • In original Cartier fitted box While much of the jewelry produced
Category

Vintage 1920s French Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, Platinum

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Cartier for sale on 1stDibs

For its extraordinary range of bracelets, watches, rings and other adornments, French luxury house Cartier is undeniably one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.

Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.

Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)

Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.

One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.

Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.

On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle inspired by medieval chastity belts that transformed fine jewelry.

While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces.

Find contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories on 1stDibs.

A Close Look at art-deco Jewelry

Fascination with the Jazz Age is endless, and even today jewelry designers continue to be inspired by authentic Art Deco jewelry and watches.

The Art Deco period, encompassing the 1920s and ’30s, ushered in a very distinct look in the design of jewelry. There were many influences on the jewelry of the era that actually began to take shape prior to the 1920s. In 1909, Serge Diaghilev brought the Ballet Russes to Paris, and women went wild for the company’s exotic and vibrant costumes It’s no wonder, then, that jade, lapis lazuli, coral, turquoise and other bright gemstones became all the rage. There already existed a fascination with the East, particularly China and Japan, and motifs consisting of fans and masks started to show up in Art Deco jewelry.

However, the event that had the greatest influence on Deco was the excavation of the tomb of King Tut in 1922. When the world saw what was hidden in Tut’s burial chamber, it sent just about everyone into a frenzy. Pierre Cartier wrote in 1923 that “the discovery of the tomb will bring some sweeping changes in fashion jewelry.” And he couldn’t have been more right. “Egyptomania” left an indelible mark on all of the major jewelry houses, from Cartier to Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron and Georges Fouquet. (Cartier created some of the most iconic jewelry designs that defined this era.)

While a lot of Art Deco jewelry was black and white — the black coming from the use of onyx or black enamel and the white from rock crystal and diamonds — there is plenty of color in jewelry of the era. A perfect accent to diamonds in platinum settings were blue sapphires, emeralds and rubies, and these stones were also used in combination with each other.

Many designers employed coral, jade and lapis lazuli, too. In fact, some of the most important avant-garde jewelers of the period, like Jean Després and Jean Fouquet (son of Georges), would combine white gold with ebony and malachite for a jolt of color.

A lot of the jewelry produced during this time nodded to current fashion trends, and women often accessorized their accessories. The cloche hat was often accented with geometric diamond brooches or double-clip brooches. Backless evening dresses looked fabulous with sautoir necklaces, and long pearl necklaces that ended with tassels, popular during the Edwardian period, were favored by women everywhere, including Coco Chanel.

Find unique Art Deco necklaces, earrings, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

Finding the Right brooches for You

Antique and vintage brooches, which are decorative jewels traditionally pinned to garments and used to fasten pieces of clothing together where needed, have seen increasing popularity in recent years.

Given their long history, brooches have expectedly taken on a variety of different shapes and forms over time, with jewelers turning to assorted methods of ornamentation for these accessories, including enameling and the integration of pearls and gemstones.

Cameo brooches that originated during the Victorian age are characterized by a shell carved in raised relief that feature portraits of a woman’s profile, while 19th-century micromosaic brooches, comprising innumerable individually placed glass fragments, sometimes feature miniature depictions of a pastoral scene in daily Roman life.

At one time, brooches were symbols of wealth, made primarily from the finest metals and showcasing exquisite precious gemstones. Today, these jewels are inclusive and universal, and you don’t have to travel very far to find an admirer of brooches. They can be richly geometric in form, such as the ornate diamond pins dating from the Art Deco era, or designer-specific, such as the celebrated naturalistic works created by Tiffany & Co., the milk glass and gold confections crafted by Trifari or handmade vintage Chanel brooches of silk or laminated sheer fabric.

Brooches are versatile and adaptable. These decorative accessories can be worn in your hair, on hats, scarves and on the lower point of V-neck clothing. Pin a dazzling brooch to the lapel of your blazer-and-tee combo or add a cluster of smaller pins to your overcoat. And while brooches have their place in “mourning jewelry,” in that a mourning brooch is representative of your connection to a lost loved one, they’re widely seen as romantic and symbolic of love, so much so that a hardcore brooch enthusiast might advocate for brooches to be worn over the heart.

Today, find a wide variety of antique and vintage brooches on 1stDibs, including gold brooches, sapphire brooches and more.

Questions About Cartier
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Yes, Cartier watches are considered luxury watches. Cartier is a noted jeweler, taking that attention to detail and access to high-quality metals and jewels to their watches—they spare no expense and are highly desirable. On 1stDibs, find a collection of authentic Cartier watches from some of the world’s top sellers.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    Cartier pieces may be cheaper in Paris than they are in the U.S., but that's because of the exchange rate. Cartier doesn't price the pieces depending on the country.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    A Cartier engagement ring can cost between $3,000 and $800,000. The price depends on the diamond's carat weight and quality.
  • 1stDibs ExpertMay 1, 2024
    Yes, some Cartier watches are automatic but the legendary French luxury house also creates collections that include watches with quartz movements. Cartier’s iconic Tank collection, which includes the Tank Française, the Tank Louis Cartier and other models, features both quartz and automatic options for all kinds of collectors. Each of the watches in the Panthère collection, however, carries a quartz movement.

    While quartz watches are powered by a pre-installed battery and a high-frequency quartz crystal, automatic watches rely on a spring system and are self-winding. An automatic watch does not have a battery and is recharged on the wrist owing to the wearer’s movements during the day.

    It was Louis Cartier, grandson of Cartier founder Louis-François Cartier, who was responsible for bringing watchmaking to the venerable maison when he presented Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont with a wristwatch in 1904. 

    Although the pocket watch was the de rigueur men’s accessory of the day, Santos-Dumont found his own pocket watch hard to consult while keeping his plane aloft. Louis fashioned a timepiece with a flat, square case on a leather strap that could be referred to easily at a glance. Named in honor of Louis’s friend, the Santos was eventually produced for sale in 1911. 

    Find vintage Cartier watches for sale on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    The price of Cartier bracelets varies based on age, condition, and rarity. The least expensive versions of the Cartier Love bracelet, for example, can still cost around $4,000. On 1stDibs, there is a variety of Cartier bracelets for sale.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    As one of the top luxury jewelry houses in the world, Cartier uses some of the finest quality materials. The company uses 18k gold in their jewelry and real diamonds.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    Cartier rose gold doesn't tarnish but over many years of wearing, rose gold generally is said to become darker. Rose gold allegedly becomes slightly yellower in tone, toward a traditional gold.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    Today, the Cartier symbol, or logo, is the luxury house's name written in a clean serif font that mimics cursive handwriting. Typically, the logo is either black on white or white on a black background. Its refined and understated appearance references the high standards that have long been associated with this celebrated brand.
  • 1stDibs ExpertMarch 22, 2022
    Cartier is famous for producing jewelry and watches out of rare and luxury-grade materials and creating innovative designs, often packed with symbolism. Some of the jeweler's most famous pieces include the modern Love and Trinity bracelets and its custom-made antique and vintage jewelry like the Crocodile and Patiala necklaces. Find a range of Cartier jewelry and watches on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 13, 2024
    There are a few reasons why Cartier is so popular. For one thing, the French luxury house is known for its very long history of unparalleled prestige and quality craftsmanship. Cartier has been producing extraordinary jewelry, watches and accessories since 1847. While jewelry lovers have long been enthusiastic about Cartier’s elegant and streamlined designs for bracelets, rings, necklaces and other pieces, the brand is also known for innovation. It pioneered the use of platinum in fine jewelry, and its artisans were so mindful of trends in fashion that the house became the official jewelry supplier to King Edward VII. Later, Cartier’s Art Deco-era pieces would help define the movement with which they are associated. One of the brand’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch, one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. Today’s influencers continue to help popularize the brand, increasing the demand for certain pieces like Cartier buffalo horn sunglasses and the Cartier Love bracelet, an icon of modernist jewelry. Find a wide range of Cartier watches, jewelry and eyewear on 1stDibs.