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Van Cleef And Arpels Rock Crystal

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Sapphire, Rock Crystal, Diamond and Enamel Sautoir
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Sapphire, Rock Crystal, Diamond and Enamel Sautoir

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Sapphire, Rock Crystal, Diamond and Enamel Sautoir

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

Striking and highly artistic, this Van Cleef & Arpels sautoir is masterfully crafted in 18K yellow gold and showcases an elegant interplay of sapphire beads, carved rock crystal, pav...

Category

20th Century Beaded Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Rock Crystal, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Twenty Motif Rock Crystal Gold Necklace
Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Twenty Motif Rock Crystal Gold Necklace

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Twenty Motif Rock Crystal Gold Necklace

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Southampton, PA

18k Yellow Gold Alhambra Twenty-Motif Rock Crystal. Necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels. Exquisitely crafted, the Van Cleef & Arpels 18k Yellow Gold 20 Motif Alhambra Rock Crystal Neckl...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Chain Necklaces

Materials

Crystal, Rock Crystal, Gold

Alexandre Reza, Rare Obsidian, Silver-Gilt, and Rock Crystal Circus Panther
Alexandre Reza, Rare Obsidian, Silver-Gilt, and Rock Crystal Circus Panther

Alexandre Reza, Rare Obsidian, Silver-Gilt, and Rock Crystal Circus Panther

Located in Long Island City, NY

Alexandre Reza, A Rare Obsidian, Silver-Gilt, and Rock Crystal Circus Panther, mounted with Cabochon Sapphires and Rubies.

Category

20th Century French Art Deco Figurines and Sculptures

Materials

Rock Crystal, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Silver

Cartier 18k Gold Rock Crystal Door Knocker Earrings, Circa 1970
Cartier 18k Gold Rock Crystal Door Knocker Earrings, Circa 1970

Cartier 18k Gold Rock Crystal Door Knocker Earrings, Circa 1970

By Cartier

Located in Malmö, Skåne län

This transparent colorless form of quartz conjures up the imagery of frozen rock and was so dubbed in ancient times. A popular material for carving since antiquity Rock crystal’s cha...

Category

Vintage 1970s French Modern Hoop Earrings

Materials

Crystal, Diamond, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Mellerio dits Meller, 18k Gold & Rock Crystal 'Doorknocker' Brooch, C.1940
Mellerio dits Meller, 18k Gold & Rock Crystal 'Doorknocker' Brooch, C.1940

Mellerio dits Meller, 18k Gold & Rock Crystal 'Doorknocker' Brooch, C.1940

By Mellerio dits Meller

Located in Paris, FR

Soon, they were joined by Boucheron, Cartier, Chaumet, Van Cleef & Arpels, all the brands that still make history of French Mastering in Jewellery.

Category

Vintage 1940s French Retro Brooches

Materials

Rock Crystal, 18k Gold

Diamond Rock Crystal Drop Earrings in 18k White Gold with 1.25 Carat Brilliants
Diamond Rock Crystal Drop Earrings in 18k White Gold with 1.25 Carat Brilliants

Diamond Rock Crystal Drop Earrings in 18k White Gold with 1.25 Carat Brilliants

By Maximilian Hemmerle

Located in München, DE

Maternally, his grandfather René Sim Lacaze was former Head Designer of Van Cleef & Arpels. Within MXHM, this cultural lineage informs a dialogue between classical lapidary artistry ...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary German Art Deco Drop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold, White Gold

Recent Sales

Circa 1980 Green Onyx 18 Karat Gold Diamonds Van Cleef & Arpels Necklace
Circa 1980 Green Onyx 18 Karat Gold Diamonds Van Cleef & Arpels Necklace

Circa 1980 Green Onyx 18 Karat Gold Diamonds Van Cleef & Arpels Necklace

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in London, GB

Van Cleef & Arpels Necklace - circa 1980 Epitomizing Egyptian revival combined with the artistic juxtaposition of color contrasting precious and semi-precious gemstones inherent in ...

Category

Vintage 1980s French Modern Choker Necklaces

Materials

Coral, White Diamond, Onyx, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Rock Crystal Ruby Sapphire Gold Brooch
Van Cleef & Arpels Rock Crystal Ruby Sapphire Gold Brooch

Van Cleef & Arpels Rock Crystal Ruby Sapphire Gold Brooch

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Miami, FL

18k yellow gold Van Cleef & Arpels rock crystal brooch. This gorgeous piece is handcrafted with 18k yellow gold intertwined rope hair swaying and swinging with movement, accented...

Category

20th Century Unknown Brooches

Materials

Rock Crystal, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Five Motif Rock Crystal Gold Bracelet
Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Five Motif Rock Crystal Gold Bracelet

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Five Motif Rock Crystal Gold Bracelet

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Southampton, PA

18k Yellow Gold Alhambra Five-Motif Rock Crystal. Bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels. Exquisitely crafted, the Van Cleef & Arpels 18k Yellow Gold 5 Motif Alhambra Rock Crystal Bracelet...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Link Bracelets

Materials

Crystal, Rock Crystal, Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris 18k YG, Rock Crystal, Sapphire & Ruby Girl Brooch Rare
Van Cleef & Arpels Paris 18k YG, Rock Crystal, Sapphire & Ruby Girl Brooch Rare

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris 18k YG, Rock Crystal, Sapphire & Ruby Girl Brooch Rare

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Beverly Hills, CA

Van Cleef & Arels 18k Yellow Gold, Rock Crystal, Sapphire & Ruby Girl Brooch Vintage Circa 1960 Here is your chance to purchase a beautiful and highly collectible designer brooch.

Category

Vintage 1960s French Retro Brooches

Materials

Rock Crystal, Ruby, Sapphire

Van Cleef & Arpels Churchill Bulldog Brooch
Van Cleef & Arpels Churchill Bulldog Brooch

Van Cleef & Arpels Churchill Bulldog Brooch

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New Orleans, LA

Wonderful and unique, this 18K yellow gold brooch of an English bulldog is an artistic tour de force from the legendary jewelry firm Van Cleef & Arpels. The whimsical design depi...

Category

20th Century French Brooches

Materials

Rock Crystal, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Rock Crystal Yellow Gold Bracelet Rare
Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Rock Crystal Yellow Gold Bracelet Rare

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Rock Crystal Yellow Gold Bracelet Rare

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Miami, FL

Guaranteed authentic extremely are and highly collectible Vintage Alhambra 5 motif bracelet features rare Rock Crystal set in 18K yellow gold. Very rare to find, this beauty is a col...

Category

2010s French Charm Bracelets

Materials

Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Rock Crystal Yellow Gold Bracelet Rare
Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Rock Crystal Yellow Gold Bracelet Rare

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Rock Crystal Yellow Gold Bracelet Rare

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Miami, FL

Guaranteed authentic extremely are and highly collectible Vintage Alhambra 5 motif bracelet features rare Rock Crystal set in 18K yellow gold. Very rare to find, this beauty is a col...

Category

2010s French Charm Bracelets

Materials

18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Rock Crystal 20 Motif Necklace Very Rare
Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Rock Crystal 20 Motif Necklace Very Rare

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Rock Crystal 20 Motif Necklace Very Rare

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Miami, FL

Mightychic offers a highly collectible Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra 20 motif Rock Crystal limited edition necklace.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Link Necklaces

Materials

18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Rock Crystal 20 Motif Necklace Very Rare
Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Rock Crystal 20 Motif Necklace Very Rare

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Rock Crystal 20 Motif Necklace Very Rare

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Miami, FL

Mightychic offers a highly collectible Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra 20 motif Rock Crystal limited edition necklace.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Link Necklaces

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra White Gold 5 Motifs Pearl Crystal Bracelet
Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra White Gold 5 Motifs Pearl Crystal Bracelet

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra White Gold 5 Motifs Pearl Crystal Bracelet

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Aventura, FL

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Bracelet 5 Motifs White Gold Mother of Pearl Faithful to the very first Alhambra jewel created in 1968, the Vintage Alhambra creations by Van Cle...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Modernist Chain Bracelets

Materials

Crystal, Pearl, Rock Crystal, White Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Gold Interchangeable Cufflink Set
Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Gold Interchangeable Cufflink Set

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Gold Interchangeable Cufflink Set

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Beverly Hills, CA

Undeniable style from the fashion forward designers at Van Cleef & Arpels. Featuring gold and diamond clasps that have interchangeable inserts which includes 18k glistening gold, jet...

Category

Vintage 1950s French Cufflinks

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond 18 Karat Lapis White Gold Romance a Paris Necklace
Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond 18 Karat Lapis White Gold Romance a Paris Necklace

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond 18 Karat Lapis White Gold Romance a Paris Necklace

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Philadelphia, PA

Featuring bezel set lapis, turquoise, rock crystal topped mother-of-pearl, and a round brilliant cut diamond, simulating colorful raindrops over a polished whited gold couple embraci...

Category

20th Century Unknown Modern Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Lapis Lazuli, Turquoise, 18k Gold

André Vassort 1960s Crystal Onyx Diamond Necklace
André Vassort 1960s Crystal Onyx Diamond Necklace

André Vassort 1960s Crystal Onyx Diamond Necklace

Located in Monte Carlo, MC

He works for the major place Vendôme jewelers such as Boucheron and van Cleef & Arpels. This necklace shows his work and the van Cleef & Arpels 1970s style in the 'Draperie' serie.

Category

Vintage 1960s French Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold

Floating Diamond Mystery Clock
Floating Diamond Mystery Clock

Floating Diamond Mystery Clock

Sold

H 19.75 in W 17 in D 10 in

Floating Diamond Mystery Clock

Located in New Orleans, LA

He has collaborated with prestigious brands such as Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari and Graff, while also forming his own brand, Gerd Dor.

Category

20th Century Swiss Table Clocks and Desk Clocks

Materials

Lapis Lazuli, Rock Crystal, Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Interchangeable Rock Crystal and Onyx Gold Cufflinks
Van Cleef & Arpels Interchangeable Rock Crystal and Onyx Gold Cufflinks

Van Cleef & Arpels Interchangeable Rock Crystal and Onyx Gold Cufflinks

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Beverly Hills, CA

Van Cleef & Arpels interchangeable rock crystal and onyx cufflinks.

Category

20th Century French Contemporary Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, Onyx, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Rock Crystal 20 Motif Alhambra Necklace Custom Made
Van Cleef & Arpels Rock Crystal 20 Motif Alhambra Necklace Custom Made

Van Cleef & Arpels Rock Crystal 20 Motif Alhambra Necklace Custom Made

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in North Hollywood, CA

This VCA Rock Crystal Alhambra 20 Motif Necklace is superb. I have never seen another as this is very rare. The rock crystal motifs are perfect no damage what so ever. This piece ...

Category

Vintage 1980s French Modern Chain Necklaces

Materials

Rock Crystal, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra 5 Motif Rock Crystal Quartz Gold Bracelet
Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra 5 Motif Rock Crystal Quartz Gold Bracelet

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra 5 Motif Rock Crystal Quartz Gold Bracelet

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Fairfax, VA

Van Cleef & Arpels 5 Motif Vintage Alhambra Rock Crystal Bracelet Elegant 5 Motif Vintage Alhambra bracelet featuring luminous transparent rock crystal motifs, showcasing the timeles...

Category

2010s French Modern Charm Bracelets

Materials

Crystal, Quartz, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold, Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Rock Crystal Quartz 18K Yellow Gold Bracelet
Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Rock Crystal Quartz 18K Yellow Gold Bracelet

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Rock Crystal Quartz 18K Yellow Gold Bracelet

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Tysons, VA

Extremely beautiful transparent Rock Crystal gemstone motifs Vintage Alhambra Special Edition Bracelet. Very Rare. 18K Yellow Gold / AU 750 (Confirmed by precious metal scan & gold p...

Category

2010s French Modern Charm Bracelets

Materials

Crystal, Quartz, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels 1.05 Carat Pink Sapphire Rock Crystal 18 Karat Gold Earrings
Van Cleef & Arpels 1.05 Carat Pink Sapphire Rock Crystal 18 Karat Gold Earrings

Van Cleef & Arpels 1.05 Carat Pink Sapphire Rock Crystal 18 Karat Gold Earrings

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Philadelphia, PA

Abstract wing-like motif with fluted crystal-topped mother of pearl Accented with graduated round cut pink sapphires weighing approximately 1.05 carat total, bright deep purplish p...

Category

Vintage 1920s French Art Deco Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Rock Crystal, Ruby, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Rock Crystal Yellow Gold Bracelet Rare
Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Rock Crystal Yellow Gold Bracelet Rare

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra Rock Crystal Yellow Gold Bracelet Rare

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Miami, FL

Guaranteed authentic extremely are and highly collectible Vintage Alhambra 5 motif bracelet features rare Rock Crystal set in 18K yellow gold. Impossible to find and no longer availa...

Category

2010s French Charm Bracelets

Materials

Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Gold Platinum and Crystal and Gem Set Whimsical Brooch
Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Gold Platinum and Crystal and Gem Set Whimsical Brooch

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Gold Platinum and Crystal and Gem Set Whimsical Brooch

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Chicago, IL

Circa 1960s Van Cleef and Arpels Paris 18K Yellow Gold and Platinum Whimsical Head Brooch, measuring 1 1/2 inches in length.

Category

Vintage 1960s French Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Rock Crystal, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Platinum

1950's Van Cleef & Arpels Cufflink Set
1950's Van Cleef & Arpels Cufflink Set

1950's Van Cleef & Arpels Cufflink Set

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Beverly Hills, CA

Undeniable style from the fashion forward designers at Van Cleef & Arpels. Featuring gold and diamond clasps that have interchangeable inserts which includes 18k glistening gold, jet...

Category

Vintage 1950s French Cufflinks

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels 18 Karat White Gold Interchangeable Baton Cufflink Set
Van Cleef & Arpels 18 Karat White Gold Interchangeable Baton Cufflink Set

Van Cleef & Arpels 18 Karat White Gold Interchangeable Baton Cufflink Set

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in London, GB

Van Cleef and Arpels 18 karat white gold Interchangeable Baton Cufflink Set Circa 1980 An outstanding vintage set of interchangeable baton cufflinks.

Category

Vintage 1980s Cufflinks

Materials

Carnelian, Lapis Lazuli, Malachite, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold, White Gold

Vintage VCA 18K Interchangeable Gemstone Bar Cufflinks
Vintage VCA 18K Interchangeable Gemstone Bar Cufflinks

Vintage VCA 18K Interchangeable Gemstone Bar Cufflinks

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

Timeless and elegant French Van Cleef & Arpels interchangeable Multi-color gemstone baton Cufflinks set expertly crafted in 18K yellow gold from 1970s with 10 pairs of cylindrical va...

Category

Vintage 1970s French Modern Cufflinks

Materials

Amber, Carnelian, Hematite, Lapis Lazuli, Malachite, Rock Crystal, Tiger...

Van Cleef & Arpels 'Vintage Alhambra' Yellow Gold Rock Crystal Bracelet
Van Cleef & Arpels 'Vintage Alhambra' Yellow Gold Rock Crystal Bracelet

Van Cleef & Arpels 'Vintage Alhambra' Yellow Gold Rock Crystal Bracelet

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

Authentic Van Cleef & Arpels 'Vintage Alhambra' bracelet crafted in 18 karat yellow gold features clover motifs of rock crystal.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary More Bracelets

Materials

Crystal, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Interchangeable Cufflinks
Van Cleef & Arpels Interchangeable Cufflinks

Van Cleef & Arpels Interchangeable Cufflinks

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in Southampton, NY

Van Cleef & Arpels interchangeable cufflinks. These cufflinks provide the ease of many color options.

Category

French Cufflinks

Van Cleef & Arpels Baton Set with Assorted Coloured Stones
Van Cleef & Arpels Baton Set with Assorted Coloured Stones

Van Cleef & Arpels Baton Set with Assorted Coloured Stones

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in London, GB

A Van Cleef and Arpel baton cufflink set,with detachable,Malachite,Cornelian,Tigers Eye,Lapis Lazuli,Crystal,Coral,and onyx.Stamped VCA, OR 750 for gold,and numbered B9077R188,fitted...

Category

Vintage 1980s French Contemporary Cufflinks

Materials

Carnelian, Coral, Lapis Lazuli, Malachite, Onyx, Rock Crystal, Tiger's E...

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Interchangeable Hoop Earrings
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Interchangeable Hoop Earrings

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Interchangeable Hoop Earrings

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

Included are hoops of rock crystal, tiger eye and black onyx. Signed Van Cleef & Arpels made in France with French hall marks and inventory numbers present.

Category

Vintage 1970s French Drop Earrings

Materials

Chrysophrase, Diamond, 18k Gold

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Interchangeable Hoop Earrings
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Interchangeable Hoop Earrings

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond Interchangeable Hoop Earrings

By Van Cleef & Arpels

Located in New York, NY

Van Cleef & Arpels interchangeable earrings designed as 18k gold and diamond tops which open to accommodate various hard stone hoops including black onyx, chrysophrase, two variation...

Category

French Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Onyx, Turquoise, Chrysophrase

Trfifari "Jelly Belly" Flower Brooch
Trfifari "Jelly Belly" Flower Brooch

Trfifari "Jelly Belly" Flower Brooch

Sold

H 2.25 in W 2 in D 0.75 in

Trfifari "Jelly Belly" Flower Brooch

By Trifari

Located in Chicago, IL

He designed for such major houses as Cartier and Van Cleef and Arpels, and he used many fine jewelry techniques in the designs he made for Trifari, where he was chief designer from 1...

Category

Vintage 1940s American Brooches

Materials

Sterling Silver

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Van Cleef & Arpels for sale on 1stDibs

One of the world’s foremost jewelry houses, Van Cleef & Arpels is particularly noted for a focus on technical virtuosity, craftsmanship and artistry, evident since its beginning. Rather than create earrings, bracelets, necklaces and other adornments primarily for the aim of displaying of wealth and opulence, Van Cleef & Arpels sought to produce jewelry that projected the wearer’s taste and style.

The company was formed a year after the 1895 marriage of Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a gem cutter, to Estelle Arpels, daughter of precious-stones dealer Salomon Arpels. Ten years later, Van Cleef & Arpels opened its first boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris, setting the march on a square now crowded with dealers in bijouterie. (The company still occupies the New York flagship store opened in 1939 at Fifth Avenue and 57th Street.)

Born from a union of expertise in both jewelry making and gem selection, Van Cleef & Arpels distinguished itself with both the consistency of the color and clarity of its stones and the creativity of its designs. In doing so, the house would win a roster of dedicated, fashion-conscious clients that included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Barbara Hutton, Jacqueline Onassis and Elizabeth Taylor. In 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels patented its trademark Mystery Setting — a technique by which gems are fitted into an intricate matrix of slots and “drawers” that keep the setting hidden. Another signal innovation was the Zip necklace, introduced in 1951, which can be worn either around the neck or, with the zipper closed, as a bracelet.

But as much as to the firm’s craftsmanship, clients have been drawn by the insouciance and playfulness of Van Cleef & Arpels designers, as well as their attunement to the cultural climate. After the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, the company produced several lavish pieces featuring hieroglyphics and other Egyptian motifs to go along with the geometric Art Deco jewelry of that decade and the next. Following World War II, as symbols of freedom and rebirth, the firm focused on naturalistic forms such as birds, flowers, fruit and flying insects. High society’s 1960s fascination with the Near East and India prompted such pieces as the best-selling Alhambra necklace, popularized by Princess Grace.

Lately, attention among collectors and connoisseurs has centered on Van Cleef & Arpels’s quality of workmanship as much as its glamour. The firm was the subject of a 2012 show at the Cooper-Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, as well as exhibitions at the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana, California, in 2013 and at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 2014.

Find an exquisite collection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry on 1stDibs.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.