What defines “fine” jewelry? For many aficionados, there’s a clear line separating the golden wheat from the gilded chaff. But the handcrafted pieces made by Ciner, a 128-year-old costume jewelry house with a glittering past to rival some of the hautest high jewelers, call into question our notions of what constitutes preciousness.
Quality? Craftsmanship? Painstaking detail? Vintage Ciner earrings, brooches, necklaces and other accessories have them all in spades.
Much of the Ciner’s allure can be traced to its origins in fine jewelry. Emanuel Ciner, an Austrian immigrant, founded the firm in Manhattan in 1892, crafting pieces from the traditional precious gems, gold and platinum. But World War I and the Great Depression caused purse strings to tighten and materials to become scarce. Rather than try to weather the economic downturn, which shuttered many other American jewelers, Ciner made the risky transition from fine jewelry to costume (or fashion) jewelry — virtually uncharted territory.
Emanuel Ciner’s sons, Irwin and Charles, introduced an array of innovations — rubber casting molds, which are especially durable and produce higher quality results, and white metal alloys, which affordably mimic the look of more precious materials — that would become the standard for costume jewelry. During World War II, Ciner’s advanced molding technology was utilized by the U.S. military to produce munitions and tools. This arrangement gave the firm access to the heavily rationed metals it needed for its jewels, enabling it again to endure conditions that drove others into bankruptcy.
The company hit its stride in the 1960s, when its jewelry was sold at some of the country’s toniest stores, even garnering an Andy Warhol–illustrated ad for Bonwit Teller. Its pieces were worn by the era’s brightest stars. In the famous 1957 Joe Shere photo of Sophia Loren sneering at Jayne Mansfield’s décolletage, Mansfield is resplendent in shoulder-grazing Ciner earrings.
Ciner is unique among costume jewelers in that its pieces aren’t imitations — they are coveted in their own right. Elizabeth Taylor, a voracious jewelry collector with a taste for the very finest, was a longtime client. Several suites of Ciner jewels were included in the 2011 Christie’s sale of Taylor’s collection, with one group of rhinestone-studded ear clips and a bracelet fetching $15,600 — more than 100 times the auction estimate. It’s a reminder of a time, not so long ago, when women of great style wore fine and costume jewelry with equal aplomb, often at the same time.
Today, Ciner — now run by Emanuel Ciner’s granddaughter Pat Ciner Hill and great-granddaughter Jean Hill — continues to adhere to the same exacting production specifications. It is the only jewelry house in New York, and likely the United States, that manufactures all its pieces entirely in-house. Each begins with dozens of elements that are cast in rubber molds and then individually filed and polished, plated in a particularly thick layer of 18-karat gold or rhodium, assembled on the bench and painted with enamel or set with stones. Every step is performed by hand by craftsmen, many of whom have been with the company for more than 30 years.
Find vintage Ciner clip-on earrings, choker necklaces, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
Vintage Ciner Art Deco Inspired Paste Plait Bracelet 1980s
By Ciner
Located in Wilmslow, GB
A Vintage Ciner Paste Plait Bracelet. A glorious take on the eternally chic Art Deco jewels by one of America's finest costume jewellery makers. Incredible quality, incredible style,...
French Retro Braided Gold Curb Link Bracelet
Located in New York, NY
The heavy 18kt yellow gold bracelet designed as a highly flexible row of handmade braided oval curb links, maker's mark for Rollang et Fils et Cie, stamped 750, French, ca. 1945, mea...
Gold, 18k Gold
Circa 1970 14 Karat Yellow Gold and Diamond Spray Wide Flexible Bracelet
Located in Wheaton, IL
Beautiful Circa 1970 14k yellow gold and diamond spray wide flexible bracelet - sculpted floral leaf yellow gold diamond clasp set with three small round diamonds - wide heavy 14k yellow gold braided...
Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Original French Art-Deco Platinum and Diamond Bracelet
Located in Amsterdam, NL
This antique French Art-Deco piece is truly spectacular. Unlike many re-productions, this is a genuine French art-deco Diamond and platinum bracelet from the 1920’s. There are abou...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Platinum
$5,737Sale Price|20% Off
W 0.63 in D 0.56 in L 8.47 in
Mediterranean Red Coral White Diamond Emerald Enamel Yellow Gold Frogs Bracelet
By Luigi Ferrara
Located in Naples, IT
For any problems related to some materials contained in the items that do not allow shipping, please contact the seller with a private message to solve the problem. We can ship every...
Coral, Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Sterling ...
$1,197Sale Price / item|20% Off
14 Karat Yellow Gold Diamond "Love Knot" Bracelet
By Gregory Mikaelian & Sons, Inc.
Located in Los Angeles, CA
This is very beautiful 14k yellow gold diamond "Love Knot" bracelet with 38 round diamonds color G and clarity VS2 weighing .90cts. very fine quality diamonds, bracelet measures 7.25...
Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Mens Large Diamond Bracelet, 30.36 Carats, 1452 diamonds, 14K White Gold
Located in Honolulu, HI
Mens large 14k white gold diamond bracelet containing six large rectangular links. Each link is invisible set with 110 square princess cut diamonds totaling approximately 3.30 carats and 76 round diamonds totaling approximately 0.96 carats. The large links are joined together by smaller center links, pave set with 54 round diamonds totaling approximately 0.50 carats. Each large link is set with two round diamonds bezel set on each side totaling approximately 0.30 carats. A total of 660 princess cut diamonds and 792 round diamonds. Total diamond weight is approximately 30.36 carats. The bracelet is 9 inches long and 125.80 grams in weight. Open gallery cutout design with a slide latch clasp and a security side clasp. All diamonds are 100% natural, with no treatments or enhancements. This is a preowned estate bracelet in very good condition. Bracelet Specifications: Style: Invisible Set Diamond...
Diamond, 14k Gold, White Gold
Lucky Nine Gems Bracelet Handcrafted in 18k Yellow Gold with Enamel at the Back
Located in Jaipur, IN
Considered as the Nine Lucky Gems in Indian Mythology, the gems together are supposed to benefit the wearer both Physically and mentally. The gems in the bracelet are Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Diamond, Pearl, Catseye, Yellow Sapphire, Garnet and Coral. Together they are called " Nav Ratan "the Nine Lucky Gems. Each stones is intricately set by our trained artisans using 'Kundan' which is pure gold on the sides. On the back side you will notice beautiful enamel work. The enamel is inspired by the beautiful Moroccan Tiles. The closing mechanism of the bracelet is a very old Indian Traditional mechanism that is both safe and easy to wear. If you see old Indian Jewellery...
Coral, Diamond, Emerald, Garnet, Pearl, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Yellow Sapp...
1930s Whiting & Davis Metal Mesh NOS Deadstock Gold-Tone Gauntlet Bracelet Set
By Whiting & Davis
Located in North Attleboro, MA
Introducing a rare vintage find, a set of two vintage 1930s Whiting and Davis metal mesh gauntlet bracelets! This beautiful set features Whiting & Davis' expertly crafted gold-tone "...
Base Metal
18k White Gold Art Deco Style Bracelet with Emeralds and Diamonds
Located in New York, US
This exquisite Art Deco-style bracelet is crafted in luxurious 18k white gold, showcasing a bold geometric design characteristic of the era. It features beautifully set square-cut em...
Diamond, Emerald, White Gold
$4,900Sale Price|30% Off
14 karat yellow gold classic box custom diamond tennis bracelet 2.55 carat
By Gregory Mikaelian & Sons, Inc.
Located in Los Angeles, CA
This is very beautiful 14k yellow gold classic box custom diamond tennis bracelet with 44 round diamonds color F-G and clarity VS2 weighing 2.55cts. very fine quality diamonds, brace...
Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
$1,906Sale Price|20% Off
W 0.79 in L 6.3 in
Art Nouveau Style 0.25 Carat White Diamond Emerald Yellow Gold Bangle Bracelet
By Luigi Ferrara
Located in Naples, IT
For any problems related to some materials contained in the items that do not allow shipping, please contact the seller with a private message to solve the problem. We can ship every...
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Yellow G...
18ct Diamond bracelet, Circa 1970
Located in West Palm Beach, FL
Delicately crafted in platinum circa the 1970s, this exquisite bracelet showcases a harmonious mélange of 190 round brilliant, baguette, and marquise cut diamonds, weighing approxima...
Diamond, Platinum
Ciner 1980s Abstract Gold Link Bracelet
By Ciner
Located in New York, NY
A beautiful abstract link bracelet in a rich gold color by American fashion jewelry company Ciner of New York. The bracelet has a good weight and measures .88 of an inch wide, .25 of...
Gold Plate
1980s Ciner Cream Enameled Bracelet New, Never worn
By Ciner
Located in Wallkill, NY
Ciner Enameled Bracelet. Bracelet measures .80 inches wide. Bracelet is hinged. Will fit a size 6 - 7-inch wrist nicely The matching necklace a...
Gilt Metal
Pave Encrusted Frog Bracelet Ciner 80s
By Ciner
Located in Wallkill, NY
New with tags! Dead stock from the 80s Stunning Ciner encrusted Frog Bracelet. Hinged with a slide in clasp This was purchased in Neiman Marcus t...
Gilt Metal