What defines “fine” jewelry? For many aficionados, there’s a clear line separating the golden wheat from the gilded chaff. But the handcrafted pieces made by Ciner, a 128-year-old costume jewelry house with a glittering past to rival some of the hautest high jewelers, call into question our notions of what constitutes preciousness.
Quality? Craftsmanship? Painstaking detail? Vintage Ciner earrings, brooches, necklaces and other accessories have them all in spades.
Much of the Ciner’s allure can be traced to its origins in fine jewelry. Emanuel Ciner, an Austrian immigrant, founded the firm in Manhattan in 1892, crafting pieces from the traditional precious gems, gold and platinum. But World War I and the Great Depression caused purse strings to tighten and materials to become scarce. Rather than try to weather the economic downturn, which shuttered many other American jewelers, Ciner made the risky transition from fine jewelry to costume (or fashion) jewelry — virtually uncharted territory.
Emanuel Ciner’s sons, Irwin and Charles, introduced an array of innovations — rubber casting molds, which are especially durable and produce higher quality results, and white metal alloys, which affordably mimic the look of more precious materials — that would become the standard for costume jewelry. During World War II, Ciner’s advanced molding technology was utilized by the U.S. military to produce munitions and tools. This arrangement gave the firm access to the heavily rationed metals it needed for its jewels, enabling it again to endure conditions that drove others into bankruptcy.
The company hit its stride in the 1960s, when its jewelry was sold at some of the country’s toniest stores, even garnering an Andy Warhol–illustrated ad for Bonwit Teller. Its pieces were worn by the era’s brightest stars. In the famous 1957 Joe Shere photo of Sophia Loren sneering at Jayne Mansfield’s décolletage, Mansfield is resplendent in shoulder-grazing Ciner earrings.
Ciner is unique among costume jewelers in that its pieces aren’t imitations — they are coveted in their own right. Elizabeth Taylor, a voracious jewelry collector with a taste for the very finest, was a longtime client. Several suites of Ciner jewels were included in the 2011 Christie’s sale of Taylor’s collection, with one group of rhinestone-studded ear clips and a bracelet fetching $15,600 — more than 100 times the auction estimate. It’s a reminder of a time, not so long ago, when women of great style wore fine and costume jewelry with equal aplomb, often at the same time.
Today, Ciner — now run by Emanuel Ciner’s granddaughter Pat Ciner Hill and great-granddaughter Jean Hill — continues to adhere to the same exacting production specifications. It is the only jewelry house in New York, and likely the United States, that manufactures all its pieces entirely in-house. Each begins with dozens of elements that are cast in rubber molds and then individually filed and polished, plated in a particularly thick layer of 18-karat gold or rhodium, assembled on the bench and painted with enamel or set with stones. Every step is performed by hand by craftsmen, many of whom have been with the company for more than 30 years.
Find vintage Ciner clip-on earrings, choker necklaces, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
$495 / set
Ciner 1980s Gold Plated Earrings
By Ciner
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
Eye catching 1980s gold plated Ciner earrings featuring the most gorgeous and vibrant red and green stones at the center! Classic drop style earring in the perfect size as to draw in...
Interchangeable Earrings in Sterling with Blue Topaz Baguettes
By Martha Seely
Located in Carlisle, MA
The Interchangeable Earring Ensembles are the foundation of the Lyra Collection. Lightweight and playful, this ensemble consists of the huggie ...
Topaz, Blue Topaz, Sterling Silver
Earrings with Diamonds Rubies and Spinels Handcrafted in 18K Gold with Enamel
By Jay Rawat
Located in Jaipur, IN
A Pair of beautiful Fish Earrings with good quality flat Rose Cut Diamonds. You will notice some Rubies set on the top part of the earring. The earring has drops and beads of Spinel hanging in 18K Gold Wire. The whole piece is handcrafted in 18K Yellow gold by our trained artisans. You will notice really nice and intricate enamel work at the back as well. The Diamonds are called 'Polki' which is the Hindi traditional name given to such flat Diamonds. The stones are set in 'Kundan' which is pure Gold. The technique of setting stones with pure gold can be seen in decades old Mughal Jewelry...
Diamond, Ruby, Spinel, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Vintage Lapis Lazuli and Diamond Dangle Earrings
Located in Honolulu, HI
Beautifully Lapis Lazuli diamond dangling earrings in 14k yellow gold. These gorgeous earrings has a deep blue pear shape Lapis cabochons dangling from an inverted heart set with diamonds. The Lapis cabochons are bezel set. Each heart is set with 16 round brilliant cut diamonds totaling 32 diamonds on the pair. The diamonds are G in color and SI1 in clarity. The total diamond weight is approximately 0.65 carat. The earrings have post backs for pierced ears and are equipped with friction backings. These earrings are very well made in 14k yellow gold. The earrings measure 36 mm long (1.50 inches) x 13.94 mm wide (0.50 inch). The total weight of the earrings is 9.00 grams. These are vintage Lapis Lazuli...
Diamond, Lapis Lazuli, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Ruby Heart Diamond Dangling Earrings in 14k White Gold
Located in Honolulu, HI
Earrings Specifications: Metal: 14k White Gold Earring Length: 0.80" Total Weight: 1.9 Grams Diamonds: 42 Setting: Prong Ruby Carat Weight: 0.50 Diamond Color: G-H Diamond ...
Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, White Gold
White and Black Diamond Pave Dangle Earrings in 14k White Gold
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Gorgeous drop earrings with 0.93 ct. of white and black diamond rounds. Handmade 14k white gold mountings.
Black Diamond, White Gold
$410 / set
H 2.01 in W 0.79 in D 0.88 in L 2.01 in
Dangle Earrings in Sterling Silver, 14 Karat Ear Wire with Akoya Pearls
By Martha Seely
Located in Carlisle, MA
These pearl earrings are a modern classic. They are Medium Spiral Dangle Earrings from the Orbit collection with sterling silver spirals, a 21 gauge 14karat yellow gold ear wire...
Pearl, Sterling Silver, 14k Gold
4.14 Carat Diamond Earring Handcrafted in 18 Karat Gold with Intricate Enamel
By Jay Rawat
Located in Jaipur, IN
A pair of beautiful earrings with 4 Uncut Diamonds weighing 4.14 carats handcrafted in 18K yellow gold with intricate enamel work at the back of the earring. The Diamonds are called "Polki Diamonds" in Hindi which means these flat uncut Rose Cut diamonds. The use of these Polki can be seen in the jewelry from the Mughal era as well. The Diamonds are set with "Kundan" which is pure gold. The art of setting the stones in the jewellery can also be seen in old Indian jewelry...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel, Gold
Dilys' 4.30ct 'Intense Bluish Violet' Tanzanite & Diamond Earrings
By Dilys'
Located in Hong Kong, HK
A pair of rare transparent 4.30ct Tanzanite cabochon drop earrings, certified by IGI to be 'Intense Bluish Violet'. Designed versatile to be worn in different ways, they are handcraf...
Diamond, White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Tanzanite, Gold, 18k Gold, White ...
Egyptian 18 Carat Yellow Gold Goddess Isis Wing Earrings
Located in London, GB
These wings are inspired by the Goddess Isis who was worshiped in Ancient Egypt for being the ideal mother and wife alongside being the patroness of natur...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Helical-Shaped Earrings with 1.40 ct of Diamonds. Gold 18 kt White
Located in Rome, IT
The elliptical model earrings, are made up of a row of 182 brilliant-cut diamond, for a total carat weight of 1.43 carats. The earrings are formed by a row of diamonds that cross in ...
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
$7,150 / item
Ralph Masri Modernist Pink Sapphire Earrings
By Ralph Masri
Located in Barcelona, Barcelona
Striking 18kt rose gold earrings with pink sapphires from Ralph Masri's Modernist collection, inspired by mid-century Modernist architecture with an emphasis on minimalist shapes and...
Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
Vintage Lapis Lazuli and Diamond Pear Shape Earrings in 14K Yellow Gold
Located in Honolulu, HI
These gorgeous earrings feature a deep blue pear shape Lapis cabochons bezel set. Each side of the earring is set with 11 round brilliant cut diamonds totaling 22 diamonds on the pai...
Diamond, Lapis Lazuli, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Sold
H 1.75 in W 1.25 in D 0.38 in
Ciner 1980s Gold Twist Door Knocker Earrings with Rhinestone Accent
By Ciner
Located in New York, NY
An elegant pair of 1980s door knocker style earrings by American fashion jewelry company Ciner of N.Y. Each earrings has a half hoop top that is set with three rows of rhinestones. Freely hanging from the top piece is a square hoop with twisted ribbed design measuring 1.25 inches square. The face of the earring is 1.75 inches high. The back of each earring as well as each clip is a inscribed Ciner in block letters with a copyright symbol. Excellent condition. The gold plate is bright and shiny with no wear. Very very good to excellent condition. Opened in 1892 by Emanuel Ciner, the Ciner Jewelry...
Gold Plate
Ciner Gold Tone Door Knocker Earrings
By Ciner
Located in Miami Beach, FL
Large Ciner statement door knocker clip-back earrings featuring a ribbed goldtone design. Signed "Ciner" on the back of the clip. Age wear, light scratches, tarnish on back.
Mixed Metal Crystal Ball Dangle Earrings by Ciner, 1970s
By Ciner
Located in McKinney, TX
- Vintage item - Each earring measures 2" long - Gold plated with silver tone accents - Crystal rhinestone pavé balls suspended on gold chain - Clip on earring backs - By Ciner ...
Ciner Diamonte and Jet Earrings
By Ciner
Located in New York, NY
Lovely Ciner NY rhinestone and jet earrings. Statement pieces articulated to move with wearer.
Clip back.
Excellent condition.
2.5" L...