Even before Ella Gafter founded her namesake jewelry collection in 1982, she was a formidable presence in the jewelry industry.
As a Rome-based gem dealer, Gafter sold pearls and precious stones to retailers and jewelers but was often dissatisfied with how they made use of the rare materials she worked so hard to source. Instead of grousing, she decided to design jewels that would do them justice, focusing primarily on pearls — akoya, Tahitian and South Sea. She explains her fascination with the lustrous marine treasures simply: “Every woman looks better with pearls than without.”
Her daughter Talila Gafter, then an undergrad at Harvard, was her ally in getting the project off the ground. Together, they made the rounds to stores with Ella’s first efforts. “We had a little pouch with eight pieces and we sold everything,” Talila tells 1stDibs. After graduation, she “was involved one hundred percent” in building the company, whose pieces are handmade by master jewelers in Naples.
The designer insists that her unwavering focus is the source of her success. “There’s no compromising for me,” she says. She’s been known to replace the pearls in a single piece time after time until she’s certain she’s achieved her ideal result. “A pearl you have to respect,” she explains. “You have to put it where it wants to sit.”
Ella describes the collaboration with her daughter as a “partnership,” with each having her own domain. “I’m all fantasy; Talila is the concrete one,” she says. The company is now based in New York City, with Talila as its president while Ella is firmly at the helm of creative decisions. “I’ve never made a design suggestion to Ella,” says Talila. “Nobody does.”
That forbearance has been earned, says Talila. “I admire that Ella doesn’t take no for an answer, her tenacity, her extraordinary ambition. She believes as long as there is life, there is a lot of beauty to create. She’s a force of nature.”
Find Ella Gafter earrings, rings, necklaces and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
South Sea Pearl 14mm Diamond Earrings Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The South Sea pearl and diamond earrings feature two large pearls of 14mm diameter with a decorative triangular diamond design. The untreated South Sea pearls originate from the wate...
Diamond, White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Turtle Brooch Pin Blue Sapphire and Diamonds Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The turtle brooch features a carapace decorated with tinted New Zealand paua shell (abalone) topped by transparent crystal, lending the jewel a distinctly art déco look. It is circum...
White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
South Sea Pearl and Diamond Cocktail Ring Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The South Sea pearl and diamond ring features a pearl of 16mm diameter. The pearl is untreated. It displays a splendid nacre and its natural color and luster have not been enhanced i...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Ruby and Diamond Cocktail Ring Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The ruby and diamond cocktail ring features an oval cut faceted ruby of brilliant color weighing 2.25 carats. The ruby's origin is Thailand. The center stone is flanked by custom cut...
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Stick Pin South Sea Pearl 19mm Emerald Diamond Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The stick pin with South Sea pearl emerald and diamonds features a 19mm pearl atop a corolla set with custom cut baguette emeralds of brilliant color originating from Zambia (approxi...
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, South Sea Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Pearl Necklace 4 strands 8mm Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The 70” Japanese Akoya pearl necklace consists of 189 round pearls (Pinctada Fucata) of 8mm diameter. The pearls display a lovely nacre, lustre, and iridescence. The necklace is held...
Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, Cultured Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Pink Sapphire and Diamond Bangle Bracelet Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The pink sapphire and diamond bangle bracelet features 30 calibrated oval cut faceted pink sapphires of brilliant hues for a total of...
White Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
Bee Brooch Pin Diamonds Tahitian Pearl Pink Sapphire Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
This bee brooch features a splendid Tahitian pearl of 15.5mm diameter. The wings are set with custom cut tinted paua shell topped with clear crystal, lending the jewel a distinctly a...
White Diamond, Black Pearl, Blue Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Pearl, Diamond...
Pink Sapphire Diamond Dome Cocktail Ring Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The pink sapphire and diamond dome cocktail ring features 22.96 carats of oval-cut fine quality faceted Ceylon sapphires of brilliant color. The sapphires are carefully interspersed ...
Diamond, White Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
Multicolor Sapphire Diamond Golden Pearl Necklace Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The multicolor sapphire necklace features a golden South Sea pearl with a crown of round diamonds set en pavé (0.75 carats) suspending 7 multicolor sapphire briolettes of lovely pas...
Diamond, Pearl, South Sea Pearl, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
Golden Pearl and Diamond Earrings Clip-On Earrings Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The golden pearl and diamond earrings feature two lustrous pearls of 14.5mm diameter. The surrounding flower-like design is set with 4.89 carats of round diamonds The stem is accente...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold, Ye...
Pearl Necklace 5 strands 7.5/8mm Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The 88” Japanese Akoya pearl necklace consists of 270 homogeneous round pearls (Pinctada Fucata) of 7.5/8mm diameter. The pearls display a lovely nacre,...
White Diamond, Cultured Pearl, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Diamond Clip-On Earrings White Gold Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The diamond earrings feature 8.04 carats of diamonds (color, clarity and cut) set en pavé with geometric precision in the gold work. The design is complete with 12.50 carats of large size custom cut calibrated baguette diamonds. All diamonds are of top quality in color, clarity and cut (F/G-VVS...
White Diamond, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
South Sea Pearl Diamond Clip-On Earrings Art Déco Style Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The South Sea pearl and diamond earrings feature two splendid South Sea pearls of 15.5mm diameter on the ear. The pearls are surrounded by a design of petals set with 6.85 carats of ...
White Diamond, Onyx, South Sea Pearl, Crystal, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold,...
Golden South Sea Pearl Diamond Drop Earrings Hoop Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The golden pearl and diamond earrings feature two 12.5mm diameter pearls originating from the waters of Indonesia. The untreated pearls are being delivered to the customer with their...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Stick Pin 19mm South Sea Pearl Ruby and Diamond Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The stick pin with South Sea pearl ruby and diamond features an 19mm pearl atop a corolla set with custom cut baguette rubies of brilliant color (1.41 carats) flanked by round diamon...
Diamond, White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold
South Sea Pearl and Diamond Cuff Bracelet Art Déco Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The South Sea pearl and diamond bracelet features seven large pearls separated by seven motifs in white gold. The custom cut black onyx detail lends the bracelet an art déco look. Th...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Onyx, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Tremblant Flower Brooch Diamonds Colored Stones Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The tremblant flower brooch with diamonds and colored stones features five leaves or petals around a large and lustrous South Sea pearl. The leaves and stem are each accented by a ri...
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Yellow S...
Sapphire Diamond Necklace Sunburst Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The sapphire diamond and pearl pendant features a spray of marquise shape faceted golden sapphires of different fiery hues spangled with a crown of round diamonds. At the center a 16...
Diamond, Pearl, South Sea Pearl, Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire, 18k Gold, Wh...
Golden Pearl Sapphire and Diamond Pendant Necklace Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
This pearl, sapphire and diamond pendant necklace features a golden South Sea pearl of 14mm diameter suspending 5 orange briolette sapphires of fiery color. The pendant hangs from a ...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Yellow Sapphire, Pearl, Diamond, Sapphir...
Pink Sapphire Diamond Bracelet Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The pink sapphire bracelet features a row of especially calibrated princess-cut pink sapphires (17.60 carats) flanked by a bridge set with round diamonds. The clasp consists of an ov...
White Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold, Y...
Tahitian Pearl and Diamond Bracelet Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The Tahitian pearl and diamond bracelet features eight pearls separated by eight crosslet motifs in white gold. The untreated pearls all measure approximately 12.5mm by 13.5mm in dia...
White Diamond, Black Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Blue Ceylon Sapphire 8.19 Carats Diamond Cocktail Ring Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The blue Ceylon sapphire and diamond ring features a splendid oval faceted blue Ceylon sapphire (8.19 carats) surrounded by a crown of especially cut tapered baguette diamonds (1.78 ...
White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold, Y...
Pink Sapphire Diamond Pearl Pendant Necklace Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The pink sapphire and diamond pendant features a spray of oval and drop shape faceted sapphires accented with a crown of round diamonds. The jewel suspends a splendid South Sea pearl...
Diamond, Pearl, South Sea Pearl, Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, 18k Gold, Whit...
Double Finger Ring South Sea Pearl Tahitian Pearl Diamond Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The double finger ring features a splendid South Sea pearl of 17.8mm diameter, and an equally splendid Tahitian pearl of 17.5mm diameter. The ...
White Diamond, Black Pearl, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, W...
Pearl Necklace 5 strands 8.8/5mm Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The 92” Japanese Akoya pearl necklace consists of 251 homogeneous round pearls (Pinctada Fucata) of 8/8.5mm diameter. The pearls display a lovely nacre, lustre, and iridescence. The ...
White Diamond, Pearl, Cultured Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Diamond Pearl Drop Earrings Chandelier Tassel Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The diamond and pearl chandelier earrings feature a cascade with 8 South Sea pearls of 11mm diameter. The untreated South Sea pearls originate from the waters of Northwestern Austral...
Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, South Sea Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Golden Pearl and Diamond Drop Earrings White Gold Hoop Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The golden South Sea pearl and diamond earrings feature two 12mm diameter golden South Sea pearls originating from the waters of Indonesia. They are being delivered to the customer w...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Golden Pearl and Diamond Drop Earrings Hoop Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The golden pearl and diamond drop earrings feature two 12.5mm diameter golden South Sea pearls originating from the waters of Indonesia. They are being delivered to the customer with...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Ruby and Diamond Cuff Bracelet Art Déco Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The ruby and diamond cuff bracelet features 7 oval cut Mozambique rubies of pigeon blood color and crystalline texture for a total of 45.07 carats. The rubies are intertwined with go...
Crystal, White Diamond, Onyx, Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
Orange Sapphire Diamond and Pearl Necklace Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The orange sapphire and diamond pendant features a spray of marquise shape faceted orange sapphires (10.50 carats) interleaved with round diamonds (0.95 carats). The jewel suspends a...
Diamond, Pearl, South Sea Pearl, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
Blue Sapphire and Diamond Cuff Bracelet Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The blue sapphire and diamond bracelet features calibrated oval cut faceted Ceylon sapphires of splendid color and crystalline texture for a total of approximately 35 carats. The des...
Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
Pearl Necklace 4 strands 8/8.5mm Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The 66” Japanese Akoya pearl necklace consists of 189 round pearls (Pinctada Fucata) of 8/8.5mm diameter. The pearls display a lovely nacre, lustre, and iridescence. The necklace is ...
White Diamond, Cultured Pearl, Pearl, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
South Sea Pearl Diamond Drop Earrings White Gold Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The South Sea pearl and diamond earrings features a top hoop design with diamonds suspending two lustrous South Sea pearls of 14.5 x 16mm. The untreated South Sea pearls originate fr...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
South Sea Pearl and Diamond Cocktail Ring Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The South Sea pearl and diamond cocktail ring features a large beautiful pearl of 16.2mm diameter. The pearl is perched on top of a gold design with 2.20 carats of round diamonds set...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Blue Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The blue sapphire and diamond bracelet features a row of especially calibrated Ceylon blue sapphires flanked by a bridge set with round diamonds. The clasp consists of a flower desig...
Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
Ruby South Sea Pearl 16mm Diamond Clip-On Earrings Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The ruby pearl and diamond earrings feature a pair of lustrous 16mm diameter South Sea pearls atop a design with 3.87 carats of oval cut faceted rubies. The rubies are of crystalline...
South Sea Pearl, Ruby, White Diamond, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
Diamond Bracelet with Mother of Pearl Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The diamond bracelet features gold sections set with custom cut mother of pearl, lending the jewel a distinctive art déco look, interleaved with sections set with round diamonds for ...
White Diamond, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
Ruby and Diamond Bracelet Tennis Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The ruby and diamond bracelet features oval cut faceted rubies of brilliant hues and crystalline texture for a total of approximately 25 carats. The design is complete with 2.10 cara...
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold
Heart Shape Pink Sapphire Pearl Diamond Earrings Flower Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The heart shape pink sapphire and pearl earrings feature a flower design on the ear with 6.82 carats of crystalline quality brilliant color heart shape pink sapphires. The tops suspe...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Pink Sapphire, Diamond, Pearl, Sapphire,...
Diamond Riviera and 16mm South Sea Pearl Necklace Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The diamond riviera and South Sea pearl necklace features a splendid lustrous South Sea pearl of 16.5mm diameter from the waters of Northwestern Australia. The pearl is untreated and...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Diamond Band Ring Princess Cut Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The princess cut diamond band features symmetrically graduated rows of custom cut princess cut diamonds (7.28 carats). All Our diamonds are of top quality (color, clarity and cut, F/...
White Diamond, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
Tassel Pendant Diamond Ruby Pearl Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The diamond, ruby and pearl chandelier pendant features a cascade with 6 South Sea pearls of 12mm diameter. The untreated South Sea pearls originate from the waters of Northwestern ...
Diamond, Pearl, South Sea Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold
Blue Sapphire and Diamond Cocktail Ring Band Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The blue sapphire and diamond cocktail ring features an emerald cut Ceylon sapphire of fiery color (2.99 carats) flanked by tapering rows of custom-cut baguette diamonds (1.98 carats...
Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
Golden South Sea Pearl Diamond Drop Earrings Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The golden South Sea Pearl and diamond earrings feature a hoop design set with 0.90 carats of round diamonds of top quality (F/G-VVS). The tops suspend two splendid golden pearls of ...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Dragonfly Brooch Pin Sapphires Diamonds Pearl Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The dragonfly brooch features a voluminous Australian South Sea Pearl of 18.5mm diameter. The pearl is untreated. It displays a splendid nacre and its natural color and luster have n...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Pink Sapphire, Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Go...
Spider Brooch Pin 19mm South Sea Pearl and Diamonds Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The spider brooch features a golden pearl of the very rare size of 19mm diameter. The pearl is untreated. It displays fine quality nacre and its natural color and luster have not bee...
Crystal, Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Ruby, White Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold,...
Pearl and Diamond Onyx Pendant Necklace Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The pearl pendant necklace features a South Sea pearl of approximately 16.5 x 15mm size. The pearl is untreated. It displays a splendid nacre and its natural color and luster have no...
White Diamond, Onyx, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Blue Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The blue sapphire and diamond bracelet features oval cut faceted Ceylon sapphires of intense blue color and crystalline texture for a total of approximately 16 carats. The design is ...
Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
South Sea Pearl and Diamond Pendant Necklace Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The pendant necklace features a fine, sizeable South Sea Pearl of approximately 17mm x 15.5mm size. The pearl is untreated. It displays a splendid nacre and its natural color and lus...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Golden Yellow Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The golden yellow sapphire and diamond bracelet features 8 oval cut faceted golden sapphires of brilliant hues and crystalline texture for a total of approximately 27 carats. The des...
White Diamond, Yellow Sapphire, Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
South Sea Pearl Diamond Sautoir Necklace Art Déco Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The pearl and diamond sautoir necklace (61” long ) features a symmetrical arrangement of 18 Australian South Sea pearls interleaved at regula...
White Diamond, Onyx, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Golden Pearl and Diamond Bracelet Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The golden South Sea pearl and diamond bracelet features eight pearls separated by eight crosslet motifs in white gold. The untreated pearls all measure approximately 13mm by 14mm in...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Pearl and Diamond Necklace Sautoir Art Déco Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The pearl and diamond sautoir necklace features a design with 10 Tahitian pearls and 12 Japanese akoya pearls. Gold flowers set with frosted crystal and diamonds...
Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, Black Pearl, South Sea Pearl, Crystal, 18...
Ruby Diamond 18mm Pearl Pendant Necklace Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The ruby and diamond pendant necklace features a ligature of 4 fancy-cut rubies of brilliant color (oval, heart shape and pear shape) and round diamonds suspending a splendid 18mm So...
Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, South Sea Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold
Stick Pin South Sea Pearl and Diamond Art Déco Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The stick pin with South Sea pearl and diamond features 2 pearls (17mm and 14mm) each with a crown of diamonds. They are decorated with custom cut black onyx and coral rings...
Coral, White Diamond, Onyx, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
Diamond and Pearl Lariat Necklace Art Déco Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The diamond and pearl lariat chain is interleaved with sections of custom cut black onyx, lending the jewel a distinctive art déco look. It is decorated with diamonds totaling 2.70 c...
Diamond, Onyx, Pearl, South Sea Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
South Sea Pearl and Baguette Diamond Cocktail Ring Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The pearl and baguette diamond cocktail ring features a large South Sea pearl of 18mm diameter. The pearl is untreated. It displays a fine nacre and...
Pearl, Diamond, South Sea Pearl, White Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
South Sea Pearl Diamond Earrings Detachable Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The South Sea pearl and diamond earrings feature a double leaf design on the ear with the central vein set with custom cut baguette diamonds (1.95 carats), surrounded by round diamonds set en pave (3.30 carats). The tops suspend 2 cones set with diamonds holding a pair of splendid South Sea pearls...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
Pink Sapphire South Sea Pearl Diamond Drop Earrings Flower Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The pink sapphire and South Sea pearl earrings feature a flower design on the ear with 8.82 carats of drop shape pink sapphires of brilliant crystalline color. The tops suspend 2 spl...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Pink Sapphire, Diamond, Pearl, Sapphire,...