From her signature color Shocking Pink to her collaborations with Surrealist artists, the boldly original Elsa Schiaparelli transformed fashion with her haute couture house from the late 1920s to the early ’50s. Experimenting with elements like trompe l’oeil images and colorful visible zippers, the Italian designer instilled a provocative avant-garde artistry in her clothing and accessories, including those created with Salvador Dalí, such as the lobster dress and a hat shaped like a shoe.
Born in Rome, Schiaparelli was a rebellious child who grew up among the city’s intellectual elite. She had a voracious appetite for reading and became interested in ancient cultures, astronomy and world religions. Schiaparelli studied philosophy at the University of Rome, and after publishing a collection of poems on love and sensuality that so mortified her conservative parents that they tried, unsuccessfully, to confine her to a Swiss convent, she left for London.
A quick marriage to Count Wilhelm de Wendt de Kerlor brought her to New York, but it would be in Paris following her divorce that Schiaparelli embraced her artistic passions. She moved to the French capital city in 1922 with her young daughter and happened to meet master couturier Paul Poiret, who loaned the stylish Schiaparelli his clothes, sparking her own fashion interests.
Schiaparelli opened her modest atelier in Paris and debuted her first collection of knitwear in 1927, and later that year, she designed a black-and-white pullover hand-knit wool sweater featuring a trompe l’oeil bowknot that captured the attention of the fashion world. Vogue called it “an artistic masterpiece.” The success led to her moving her house to 21 Place Vendôme in 1935 where thousands of garments were produced each year.
Schiaparelli’s knitwear collections were later accompanied by revolutionary swimsuits and other clothing and accessories. Her inventive designs would include culottes — a radical statement in the 1930s when women still could cause a scandal by wearing pants — as well as printed fabric, such as the 1938 Tears dress with a print designed by Dalí making it appear as if the evening gown had been savagely ripped.
Schiaparelli was among the first designers to use materials like rayon and Lurex as well as explore wrap dresses and transparent raincoats. She also introduced unisex fragrances and brought her artistic partnerships into jewelry, such as bronze brooches made with Alberto Giacometti and fur-lined bracelets with Méret Oppenheim. As she wrote in her 1954 autobiography Shocking Life, women should “dare to be different.”
Despite her acclaim, her shop closed in 1954 after a tumultuous time during World War II. By then, fashion had moved on with Christian Dior's New Look, and the closure of Schiaparelli's business coincided with a comeback mounted by Coco Chanel, her archrival in the early days.
In 2006, Italian businessman Diego Della Valle acquired the brand and its archives, and the Maison Schiaparelli was reopened in 2012, back at 21 Place Vendôme where Schiaparelli's fearless and enduring work began.
Find vintage Elsa Schiaparelli hats, evening dresses and other clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.
Vintage 1950's Schiaparelli Lava Rock and iridescent rhinestone brooch orange
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Nashville, TN
This breathtaking 1950's Schiaparelli brooch, in the most breathtaking shades of iridescent orange and pink rhinestones, set against iridescent orange lava rocks, is a rare piece to ...
Mixed Metal
Couture Surreal Schiaparelli Artist Vertes Harlequin Duck Brooch c1939
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Chicago, IL
Between the first ad campaign that legendary fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) commissioned from internationally-admired Paris-based Hungarian-born multimedia artist Marcel Vertes (1895-1961) for her blockbuster perfume "Shocking" in 1937, and in 1940 when they left France after launching her perfume "Sleeping" shortly before the Nazi occupation during WWII, the illustrator-cum-ceramist distinctly handmade--while traditional materials for couture costume-jewelry were scarce in Paris--this whimsical red-glazed ceramic brooch depicting a duck holding a "wet" umbrella dripped with dashes of turquoise and black glaze. Significantly, the trombone clasp of the brooch pin, the long-pronged gilt frame, and the text stamped on its back plate "Made In France" match a similarly sized glazed-ceramic brooch of a decoratively-chained bear that was published in the book Bijoux (page 146). The author Deanna Farenti Cera dated that likewise unbranded unsigned brooch to 1938 when it was commissioned for one of Schiaparelli's themed fashion shows "Circus". The invitation to that show, which was illustrated with circus characters and performing animals by Vertes' Parisian peer Christian Berard, included a domesticated white duck--notably not holding nor wearing a fashion accessory. Unusually, Schiaparelli had commissioned couture umbrellas from other artisans in the 1930s--a couple of which were acquired by TheMet museum. Another relevant Met acquisition of the designer's couture evening gown, which it dates to Summer 1940, features three large glazed-ceramic fasteners in a contrasting color matching our brooch. The like findings, materials, construction, text, object and palette aside, accessory-adorned ducks were also among the figurative animals commissioned by Schiaparelli for that last collection before the Germans dominated Paris by June 1940, which is evidenced by the photo of the dated gilt hatpin depicting a bejeweled bird head with a bill that appears in the book by Patrick Mauries about another Schiaparelli-associated French parurier Lina Baretti (pages 124-125). See our other listing for one of Baretti's uniquely feathered designs, which likewise has a pronged gilt frame with trombone clasp like ours, but whose partridge subject best suits an earlier Schiaparelli collection for Fall 1938 titled "Pagan". For us, distinguishing our brooch from other one-of-a-kind ceramic pieces created for Schiaparelli couture...
Gold, Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal
Elsa Schiaparelli Turquoise Cabochon Vine Brooch
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in New York, NY
Elsa Schiaparelli Baroque Revival Brooch composed of leafy vine motif textured gilt plate base metal with large faux Tibetan turquoise oval cabocheons, and iridized glass aurora pin...
Gold Plate, Base Metal, Gilt Metal
Jean Schlumberger, Tiffany & Co. Peridot and Ruby Thistle Brooch
By Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Located in Boston, MA
This late 20th century pin is comprised of full cut green peridots, and red rubys set in 18kt yellow gold in this whimsically classic floral thistle themed design. This pin measures ...
Peridot, Ruby, Yellow Gold
Vintage Brooch from ANGELETTI PRIVATE COLLECTION Gold with Peridot Green Tourmal
Located in Roma, IT
Vintage Jade Brooch From ANGELETTI PRIVATE COLLECTION White and Yellow gold 18kt with Diamonds and Rubies. This Brooch was Manufactured in ‘60s in...
Diamond, Peridot, Tourmaline, Gold, 18k Gold
Original Art Nouveau 15ct Gold, Enamel and Natural Pearl Flower Brooch
Located in Armadale, Victoria
This enchanting brooch is a quintessential example of Art Nouveau jewellery, crafted from 15-carat yellow gold. The piece is a celebration of nature, art, and craftsmanship, capturin...
Natural Pearl, Gold, Enamel
Vintage Pearl Art Deco Floral Pendant/Pin/Brooch in 14 Karat Gold
Located in Milford, DE
Art deco pearls adorn this 14K gold triangular brooch/pendant decorated with floral motifs. Can be worn as a brooch, or attached to a chain and worn as a pendant. ... Tags, Marks, ...
Cultured Pearl, 14k Gold, Gold
Art Deco Silver and Onyx Broach
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Art Deco silver Broach set with a large onyx in the middle and marcasites, English ca 1930's One marcasite is missing, see pictures
Marcasite, Onyx, Silver
Amethyst, Tourmaline, Topaz, and Diamond Pansy Pin, Signed Oscar Heyman Brothers
By Oscar Heyman
Located in Boston, MA
Purple Amethyst, Pink Topaz, Purplish Magenta Tourmaline, and sparkling white diamonds come together in a beautiful display of color to form a unique rendition of Oscar Heyman Brothe...
Diamond, White Diamond, Amethyst, Topaz, Tourmaline, 18k Gold, Yellow Go...
Sapphire and Diamond Pansy Pin, Signed Tiffany & Co. by Oscar Heyman Brothers
By Oscar Heyman
Located in Boston, MA
Blue, fancy pink sapphires and diamonds are set in 18kt yellow gold and platinum in this whimsically classic floral pansy pin. Consisting of 48 mixed cut blue sapphires, 5 round cut blue sapphires, 30 round cut fancy pink sapphires, and 28 round brilliant cut diamonds. This pin measures approximately 1" in height. Stamped by Oscar Heyman Brothers for "Tiffany & Co.", serial no. "74551". *Shreve, Crump & Low Graduate Gemologist commentary: The Oscar Heyman Brothers pansy pin remains one of the most iconic brooch designs of the 20th century. Created in many combinations of gemstones, these special pins are a staple of any fine jewelry collector's gem box...
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold...
Ruby and Diamond Flower Brooch, Signed Oscar Heyman Brothers
By Oscar Heyman
Located in Boston, MA
This whimsical floral motif brooch is comprised of 18 karat yellow and white gold and consists of step-cut rubies having an estimated total weight of 13 carats, 7 round brilliant dia...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Art Deco Sterling Silver Flower Pin
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Art Deco Sterling Silver Flower Pin with Marcasite and Onyx, English ca 1930's
Marcasite, Onyx, Sterling Silver
Schlumberger Tiffany Co. Sapphire, Emerald and Yellow Gold Thistle Brooch
By Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Located in Boston, MA
This late 20th century pin is comprised of full cut blue sapphire, and green emeralds set in 18kt yellow gold in this whimsically classic floral thistle themed design. This pin measu...
Blue Sapphire, Emerald, Yellow Gold
Canary and Colorless Diamond Pansy Pin, Signed Oscar Heyman Brothers
By Oscar Heyman
Located in Boston, MA
Fancy yellow canary diamonds and white diamonds are set in 18kt yellow gold and platinum in this whimsically classic floral pansy pin. Consisting of approximately 117 round brilliant...
Diamond, White Diamond, Yellow Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
A Rare Alexis Falize Antique Gold and Cloisonné Enamel Locket, Circa 1867
By Falize
Located in Long Island City, NY
A Rare Alexis Falize Antique Gold and Cloisonné Enamel Locket, Circa 1867 This exquisite oval-shaped locket, crafted circa 1869, epitomizes the fusion of French artistry and Japanese aesthetic that characterized Alexis Falize's work during the late 19th century. The obverse features a meticulously rendered cloisonné enamel scene of a bird perched gracefully on a branch, while the reverse presents a serene landscape, showcasing Falize's mastery of the cloisonné technique and his deep appreciation for Japanese motifs. The locket is housed in its original Japanese silk box, reflecting the authenticity and preservation of this remarkable piece. Falize, a distinguished Parisian jeweler (1811–1898), was profoundly influenced by Japanese and Chinese art, integrating Oriental motifs and palettes into his creations. This fascination was part of the broader Japonisme movement that swept through Europe following Japan's opening to Western trade in 1854, introducing Japanese decorative arts to a captivated Western audience. Employing the cloisonné enamel technique—a method prevalent in traditional Japanese and Chinese metalwork—Falize delineated intricate designs using fine metal wires to create compartments (cloisons), which were then filled with vibrant enamels. This locket exemplifies such craftsmanship, with its vivid colors and precise detailing. Notably, Falize collaborated with esteemed enameller Antoine Tard, renowned for his Oriental-style cloisonné enamels. Tard's exceptional skill earned him accolades, including a gold collaborator’s medal at the 1867 Exposition Universelle in Paris. Their partnership produced some of the most celebrated cloisonné jewels of the era. Comparable works by Falize are held in prestigious institutions worldwide. The British Museum houses a gold locket adorned with cloisonné enamel by Falize, highlighting the significance of his work in their collection. The Metropolitan Museum of Art features a reversible brooch attributed to Falize, further exemplifying his expertise in cloisonné enamel. Additionally, the Cleveland Museum of Art acquired a similar cloisonné locket marked by Falize, underscoring the widespread recognition of his craftsmanship. The Victoria and Albert Museum and the Schmuckmuseum in Pforzheim also include Falize's cloisonné enamelled lockets in their collections, attesting to the enduring legacy of his work. In the realm of private collections, Wartski London has featured rare cloisonné...
Gold, Enamel
Couture ElsaSchiaparelli France Depose FeatherCrystalGold Pagan Bird Brooch 1938
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Chicago, IL
Unusually decorated with small partridge feathers like the yellow-gold gilt necklace commissioned by Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) that is featured on the front-and-back covers and centerfold of the French costume-jewelry hardcover book, Lina Baretti Parures, authored by Patrick Mauries, this unique pave-crystal yellow-gold gilt metal partridge-on-a-branch brooch is further distinguished as an unsigned Parisian-couture piece for Italian-born Schiaparelli with its combination of embossed text "Made In France" and "Modele Depose", along with the trombone clasp often used in the early 20th Century for custom-made French small brooches. The book centerfold on pages 90-91 shows a closeup of the feathered necklace created by French-born Corsican Baretti, whose intricate decoration often mixed ready-made textural or shiny materials like velvet, cork, metal wire, rhodoid, raffia or feathers with custom-made metal, plastic or glass by specialized Parisian workshops such as Maison Gripoix. The Baretti-book caption about the attributed necklace notes: "Collier realise pour Elsa Schiaparelli. Liege, soie, cannetille, perles de verre et plumes de perdix. Chaine en metal." While none of the captions date this necklace--which could have been from the same commission as our brooch--Baretti created one-of-a-kind jewelry for Schiaparelli from the 1930s to the early 1950s until the fashion designer retired. Our brooch was most likely made for a fashion-show debut of one of Schiaparelli's themed clothing collections in the late 1930s for which she commissioned many costume-jewelry paruriers including Baretti. See our photo of a Schiaparelli 1930s...
Crystal, Gold, Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal
An Iconic 1960s Elsa Schiaparelli Opalescent Brooch
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Aci Castello, IT
This is an iconic 1960s Elsa Schiaparelli opalescent brooch, a testament to the bold and artistic designs of the renowned couture jewelry designer. The brooch is circular in shape an...
René Le Marchand for Schiaparelli 1930s Mother of Pearl Goddess Brooch
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Skelmersdale, GB
Exceptionally rare and of outstanding quality, this brooch was most likely made by René le Marchand for Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s. Condition Report: Excellent The Details... T...
Lucien Neuquel for Elsa Schiaparelli Vintage Duck Brooch, 1930s
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in New York, NY
Very rare glazed ceramic duck pin brooch. Designed by the French Artist Lucien Neuquelman for Elsa Schiaparelli for the Circus Fashion Collection....
Antique Ceramic Deer Brooch by Lucien Neuquelman for Elsa Schiaparelli, 1930
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in New York, NY
Very rare glazed ceramic roe deer pin brooch. Designed by the French Artist Lucien Neuquelman for Elsa Schiaparelli for the Circus Fashion Collection (see picture from the catalogue...
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W 1.5 in D 0.75 in L 3 in
A large vibrant green paste 'lava' stone brooch, Elsa Schiaparelli, USA, c1954.
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Greyabbey, County Down
A most striking and vibrant brooch from the House of Schiaparelli in the early 1950s. Her jewellery from this time was famous for its use of very unusual coloured textured stones, in...
Base Metal
ELSA SCHIAPARELLI Designer Signed Chunky Crystal Brooch Pin
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Montreal, QC
Designer Signed ELSA SCHIAPARELLI Fabulous Vintage Chunky Brooch securely nestled Hand set large Ruby Red Crystal stone, accented by 4 Sparkling Crystal...
Crystal, Gold Plate
Schiaparell Pink Rhinestone Flamingo Pin Brooch Costume Jewelry
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in San Francisco, CA
This signed 1960s Schiaparelli jelly belly style rhinestone bird brooch is full of personality and sparkle! Pink, red, and white aurora borealis rh...
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W 2.5 in D 0.5 in L 3.5 in
Blue glass and paste "seaweed" brooch and earrings, Schiaparelli, USA, 1950s.
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Greyabbey, County Down
Schiaparelli uses this highly surrealistic subject matter, seaweed, to create a ravishing brooch and earrings, featuring her celebrated 'lava' stones, in blue, the 'seaweed' encruste...
Base Metal
Schiaparelli Rhodium plated and art glass brooch and earring set, 1950s
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Greyabbey, County Down
This stylized set by Elsa Schiaparelli harks back to her enthusiasm for Surrealism. It is a lovely set in great condition, with a lively choice of coloured art glass...
Rhodium, Base Metal
Rare Ceramic Bear Brooch Pin by Lucien Neuquelman for Elsa Schiaparelli 1938
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Atlanta, GA
Extremely rare vintage green glazed ceramic or terracotta bear pin brooch designed by Lucien Neuquelman (1909 - 1988) for Elsa Schiaparelli (1890 - 1973). In 1938, Elsa Schiaparelli was the first to give a theme to her collections from the early 1930s. Between looks, accessories and performances by circus...
Gilt Metal
1930s Max Boinet for Elsa SCHIAPARELLI Le Cirque Enamel Fur Clip Brooch Pin
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Thiensville, WI
Vintage 1930's Max Boinet for Elsa Schiaparelli La Cirque brooch/fur clip. Schiaparelli jewelry along with Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent is amon...