From her signature color Shocking Pink to her collaborations with Surrealist artists, the boldly original Elsa Schiaparelli transformed fashion with her haute couture house from the late 1920s to the early ’50s. Experimenting with elements like trompe l’oeil images and colorful visible zippers, the Italian designer instilled a provocative avant-garde artistry in her clothing and accessories, including those created with Salvador Dalí, such as the lobster dress and a hat shaped like a shoe.
Born in Rome, Schiaparelli was a rebellious child who grew up among the city’s intellectual elite. She had a voracious appetite for reading and became interested in ancient cultures, astronomy and world religions. Schiaparelli studied philosophy at the University of Rome, and after publishing a collection of poems on love and sensuality that so mortified her conservative parents that they tried, unsuccessfully, to confine her to a Swiss convent, she left for London.
A quick marriage to Count Wilhelm de Wendt de Kerlor brought her to New York, but it would be in Paris following her divorce that Schiaparelli embraced her artistic passions. She moved to the French capital city in 1922 with her young daughter and happened to meet master couturier Paul Poiret, who loaned the stylish Schiaparelli his clothes, sparking her own fashion interests.
Schiaparelli opened her modest atelier in Paris and debuted her first collection of knitwear in 1927, and later that year, she designed a black-and-white pullover hand-knit wool sweater featuring a trompe l’oeil bowknot that captured the attention of the fashion world. Vogue called it “an artistic masterpiece.” The success led to her moving her house to 21 Place Vendôme in 1935 where thousands of garments were produced each year.
Schiaparelli’s knitwear collections were later accompanied by revolutionary swimsuits and other clothing and accessories. Her inventive designs would include culottes — a radical statement in the 1930s when women still could cause a scandal by wearing pants — as well as printed fabric, such as the 1938 Tears dress with a print designed by Dalí making it appear as if the evening gown had been savagely ripped.
Schiaparelli was among the first designers to use materials like rayon and Lurex as well as explore wrap dresses and transparent raincoats. She also introduced unisex fragrances and brought her artistic partnerships into jewelry, such as bronze brooches made with Alberto Giacometti and fur-lined bracelets with Méret Oppenheim. As she wrote in her 1954 autobiography Shocking Life, women should “dare to be different.”
Despite her acclaim, her shop closed in 1954 after a tumultuous time during World War II. By then, fashion had moved on with Christian Dior's New Look, and the closure of Schiaparelli's business coincided with a comeback mounted by Coco Chanel, her archrival in the early days.
In 2006, Italian businessman Diego Della Valle acquired the brand and its archives, and the Maison Schiaparelli was reopened in 2012, back at 21 Place Vendôme where Schiaparelli's fearless and enduring work began.
Find vintage Elsa Schiaparelli hats, evening dresses and other clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.
Vintage 1950's Schiaparelli Lava Rock and iridescent rhinestone brooch orange
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Nashville, TN
This breathtaking 1950's Schiaparelli brooch, in the most breathtaking shades of iridescent orange and pink rhinestones, set against iridescent orange lava rocks, is a rare piece to ...
Mixed Metal
Couture Surreal Schiaparelli Artist Vertes Harlequin Duck Brooch c1939
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Chicago, IL
Between the first ad campaign that fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) commissioned from internationally-admired Paris-based Hungarian-born multimedia artist Marcel Vertes (1895-1961) for her blockbuster perfume "Shocking" in 1937, and in 1940 when they left France after launching her perfume "Sleeping" shortly before the Nazi occupation during WWII, the illustrator-cum-ceramist distinctly handmade--while traditional materials for couture costume-jewelry were scarce in Paris--this whimsical red-glazed ceramic brooch depicting a duck holding a "wet" umbrella dripped with dashes of turquoise and black glaze. Significantly, the trombone clasp of the brooch pin, the long-pronged gilt frame, and the text stamped on its back plate "Made In France" match a similarly sized glazed-ceramic brooch of a decoratively-chained bear that was published in the book Bijoux (page 146). The author Deanna Farenti Cera dated that likewise unbranded unsigned brooch to 1938 when it was commissioned for one of Schiaparelli's themed fashion shows "Circus". The invitation to that show, which was illustrated with circus characters and performing animals by Vertes' Parisian peer Christian Berard, included a domesticated white duck--notably not holding nor wearing a fashion accessory. Unusually, Schiaparelli had commissioned couture umbrellas from other artisans in the 1930s--a couple of which were acquired by TheMet museum. Another relevant Met acquisition of the designer's couture evening gown, which it dates to Summer 1940, features three large glazed-ceramic fasteners in a contrasting color matching our brooch. The like findings, materials, construction, text, object and palette aside, accessory-adorned ducks were among the figurative animals commissioned by Schiaparelli for that last collection before the Germans dominated Paris by June 1940, which is evidenced by the photo of the dated gilt hatpin depicting a bejeweled bird head with a bill that appears in the book by Patrick Mauries about another Schiaparelli-associated French parurier Lina Baretti (pages 124-125). See our other listing for one of Baretti's uniquely feathered designs, which likewise has a pronged gilt frame with trombone clasp like ours, but whose partridge subject best suits an earlier Schiaparelli collection for Fall 1938 titled "Pagan". For us, distinguishing our brooch from other one-of-a-kind ceramic pieces created for Schiaparelli couture...
Gold, Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal
Elsa Schiaparelli Turquoise Cabochon Vine Brooch
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in New York, NY
Elsa Schiaparelli Baroque Revival Brooch composed of leafy vine motif textured gilt plate base metal with large faux Tibetan turquoise oval cabocheons, and iridized glass aurora pin...
Gold Plate, Base Metal, Gilt Metal
Vintage 1.75 Carat Natural Indigo Zircon Flower Pin 14 Karat 3D
Located in New York, NY
Vintage Rose Brooch Pin 1.75ct natural Blue Zircon Round cut Indigo Blue, clean clarity & transparent 5.6mm diameter Round, Full cut Brillian...
Zircon, 14k Gold, Rose Gold
Art Deco Diamond Cultured Pearl Platinum Plaque Brooch
Located in Zurich, Zollstrasse
A stunning antique 1930s brooch with approximaltey 10.40 carat diamonds and a cultured pearl, platinum Art Deco plaque brooch. This stunning, fi...
Diamond, Cultured Pearl, Platinum
Vintage Tiffany & Co. Large Paloma Picasso 18K Gold Platinum Diamond PIN Brooch
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Houston, TX
Brand: Tiffany & Co. Metal Type: 18K Yellow Gold &950 Platinum Length: 3.00 inches Width: 2.00 inches Weight: 22.91 grams TIFFANY & CO. 18K yellow gold and 950 plati...
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
$11,792 / item
Victorian Garnet, Pearl and Diamond Pendant
Located in London, GB
A Victorian garnet, pearl and diamond brooch/pendant, set to the centre with four triangular cabochon-cut garnets between rose-cut diamond-set cross and natural pearl surround, with ...
Diamond, Garnet, Pearl, Natural Pearl, Yellow Gold, Gold, 18k Gold, 9k Gold
$925
H 0.5 in W 3.5 in D 1.85 in L 3.5 in
Vintage Miriam Haskell Abstract Resin Royal Blue and Green Bead Brooch Pin
By Miriam Haskell
Located in North Miami, FL
The gorgeous play of brilliant hues of blue and green make this vintage signed abstract designed Miriam Haskell pin a knock out. It is set against t...
Antique Enamel Flower Brooch of 14k Gold, Circa 1900
Located in Lewisburg, PA
A jewel of timeless artistry, this antique brooch (circa 1900) captures the romantic elegance of turn-of-the-century design. The piece features a vibrant blue enamel blossom framed b...
Diamond, 14k Gold, Enamel
1990s Vintage CHANEL Silk Camellia Brooch Black Gold Small
By Chanel
Located in Bangkok, TH
This vintage CHANEL camellia brooch is crafted of black silk fabric adorned with two golden leaves. Stamped CHANEL made in France. Diameter measures approximately 7.5 x 6 cm. Comes w...
Large Gilded Gold Filigree Vermeil With Multi-Seed Accent Brooch
Located in New York, NY
This wonderfully detailed gilded gold filigree vermeil finish brooch is detailed with multi-seed pearls and color resin stones. This wonderful brooch measures 2 1/8" in height, ...
Marcel Boucher Retro Swirl Brooch
By Marcel Boucher
Located in New York, NY
Elegant Marcel Boucher Retro Mini Swirl Brooch from the 1940's. Sterling with rhodium finish with tapered faux sapphires and pave crystals. Signed with early MB mark, Sterling. 1" x ...
Rhodium, Sterling Silver
Modern Handmade Fused Gold Sticks Pin 18 Karat
Located in New York, NY
Vintage "Fused Sticks" Gold pin. New condition. 2.8 X 1.8 inch Depth: .32 inch 18kt. yellow gold 19.7 grams
18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold
Tiffany & Co. Paloma Picasso Sterling Silver Graffiti 'X' Brooch
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine signed brooch. In sterling silver. Designed by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. In the form of an asymmetrical letter X. Secured with a hinged pin and clasp and set wi...
Sterling Silver
$389
W 0.71 in L 2.25 in
Christian Dior Vintage 1980s Trio White Pearls Croissant Twist Bar Gold Brooch
By Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior Vintage 1980s Unisex Long Trio Three White Circle Pearls Croissant Twist Bar Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Plated Excellent condition, very new. 100% Genuine. A uni...
Gold Plate
An Iconic 1960s Elsa Schiaparelli Opalescent Brooch
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Aci Castello, IT
This is an iconic 1960s Elsa Schiaparelli opalescent brooch, a testament to the bold and artistic designs of the renowned couture jewelry designer. The brooch is circular in shape an...
René Le Marchand for Schiaparelli 1930s Mother of Pearl Goddess Brooch
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Skelmersdale, GB
Exceptionally rare and of outstanding quality, this brooch was most likely made by René le Marchand for Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s. Condition Report: Excellent The Details... T...
Lucien Neuquel for Elsa Schiaparelli Vintage Duck Brooch, 1930s
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in New York, NY
Very rare glazed ceramic duck pin brooch. Designed by the French Artist Lucien Neuquelman for Elsa Schiaparelli for the Circus Fashion Collection....
Antique Ceramic Deer Brooch by Lucien Neuquelman for Elsa Schiaparelli, 1930
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in New York, NY
Very rare glazed ceramic roe deer pin brooch. Designed by the French Artist Lucien Neuquelman for Elsa Schiaparelli for the Circus Fashion Collection (see picture from the catalogue...
Couture ElsaSchiaparelli France Depose FeatherCrystalGold Pagan Bird Brooch 1938
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Chicago, IL
Unusually decorated with small partridge feathers like the yellow-gold gilt necklace commissioned by Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) that is featured on the front-and-back covers and centerfold of the French costume-jewelry hardcover book, Lina Baretti Parures, authored by Patrick Mauries, this unique pave-crystal yellow-gold gilt metal partridge-on-a-branch brooch is further distinguished as an unsigned Parisian-couture piece for Italian-born Schiaparelli with its combination of embossed text "Made In France" and "Modele Depose", along with the trombone clasp often used in the early 20th Century for custom-made French small brooches. The book centerfold on pages 90-91 shows a closeup of the feathered necklace created by French-born Corsican Baretti, whose intricate decoration often mixed ready-made textural or shiny materials like velvet, cork, metal wire, rhodoid, raffia or feathers with custom-made metal, plastic or glass by specialized Parisian workshops such as Maison Gripoix. The Baretti-book caption about the attributed necklace notes: "Collier realise pour Elsa Schiaparelli. Liege, soie, cannetille, perles de verre et plumes de perdix. Chaine en metal." While none of the captions date this necklace--which could have been from the same commission as our brooch--Baretti created one-of-a-kind jewelry for Schiaparelli from the 1930s to the early 1950s until the fashion designer retired. Our brooch was most likely made for a fashion-show debut of one of Schiaparelli's themed clothing collections in the late 1930s for which she commissioned many costume-jewelry paruriers including Baretti. See our photo of a Schiaparelli 1930s...
Crystal, Gold, Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal
Sold
W 2.01 in D 0.48 in L 2.76 in
Vintage Schiaparelli Fish Signed Costume Jewellery Swarowsky Crystals Metal
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Munich, Bavaria
This lovely fish was made in the second quarter of the 20th century by Schiaparelli and is fully signed.
Base Metal
Sold
W 1.5 in D 0.75 in L 3 in
A large vibrant green paste 'lava' stone brooch, Elsa Schiaparelli, USA, c1954.
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Greyabbey, County Down
A most striking and vibrant brooch from the House of Schiaparelli in the early 1950s. Her jewellery from this time was famous for its use of very unusual coloured textured stones, in...
Base Metal
ELSA SCHIAPARELLI Designer Signed Chunky Crystal Brooch Pin
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Montreal, QC
Designer Signed ELSA SCHIAPARELLI Fabulous Vintage Chunky Brooch securely nestled Hand set large Ruby Red Crystal stone, accented by 4 Sparkling Crystal...
Crystal, Gold Plate
Schiaparell Pink Rhinestone Flamingo Pin Brooch Costume Jewelry
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in San Francisco, CA
This signed 1960s Schiaparelli jelly belly style rhinestone bird brooch is full of personality and sparkle! Pink, red, and white aurora borealis rh...
Sold
W 2.5 in D 0.5 in L 3.5 in
Blue glass and paste "seaweed" brooch and earrings, Schiaparelli, USA, 1950s.
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Greyabbey, County Down
Schiaparelli uses this highly surrealistic subject matter, seaweed, to create a ravishing brooch and earrings, featuring her celebrated 'lava' stones, in blue, the 'seaweed' encruste...
Base Metal
Schiaparelli Rhodium plated and art glass brooch and earring set, 1950s
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Greyabbey, County Down
This stylized set by Elsa Schiaparelli harks back to her enthusiasm for Surrealism. It is a lovely set in great condition, with a lively choice of coloured art glass...
Rhodium, Base Metal
Rare Ceramic Bear Brooch Pin by Lucien Neuquelman for Elsa Schiaparelli 1938
By Elsa Schiaparelli
Located in Atlanta, GA
Extremely rare vintage green glazed ceramic or terracotta bear pin brooch designed by Lucien Neuquelman (1909 - 1988) for Elsa Schiaparelli (1890 - 1973). In 1938, Elsa Schiaparelli was the first to give a theme to her collections from the early 1930s. Between looks, accessories and performances by circus...
Gilt Metal