Remembered fondly with a nod to his architecture education as the “Frank Lloyd Wright of Italian Fashion” and the “Architect of Fashion,” Milanese designer Gianfranco Ferré spent a lifetime creating handbags, dresses, jackets and other garments and accessories that were defined by meticulous tailoring and crisp geometry. Designing the iconic Lady Dior handbag after being named artistic director at Dior during the late 1980s is only one of Ferré’s impressive achievements in the fashion industry.
Ferré was born in Legnano and was raised by his mother and two aunts. He studied architecture at Milan Polytechnic but had a love for fashion, and made belts and other items for female friends in his classes. He graduated in 1969.
Ferré’s accessories caught the eye of Rosy Biffi, who operated boutiques in Milan with her sister, Adele. He was encouraged by Biffi to create clothing, and soon began creating jewelry and accessories for Christiane Bailly and Walter Albini. The latter is an unsung hero of 20th-century fashion, while Bailly was part of a small group of prominent young stylistes who helped build a sterling reputation for French ready-to-wear fashion during the 1960s. Ferré’s work was photographed by Italian Vogue, and he secured commissions from the likes of Karl Lagerfeld and Elio Fiorucci.
Ferré appreciated other cultures and drew inspiration from his travels abroad. His most influential trip — a years-long stint in India — saw him bringing bright colors and patterns to his evening dresses and day dresses. While there he created a collection for the Genoa-based San Giorgio Impermeabili. Ferrè designed for brands such as Les Grenouilles and Baila, and met with Italian businessman and clothing manufacturer Franco Mattioli, who would become an important collaborator.
In 1978, Ferré and Mattioli became equal business partners in establishing Ferré’s own label, for which he designed women’s ready-to-wear and menswear collections in Milan. In 1983, he was named the first professor of fashion at the Domus Academy.
While teaching, Ferré won the Occhio d’Oro — Italy’s award for best fashion designer — six times. In 1986, he introduced his first women’s fragrance, his first couture and fur collections, and a new line called Studio 00l. A few years later, Bernard Arnault, owner of Christian Dior, appointed him artistic director.
It was unexpected for an Italian to be given the job at Dior — one of fashion’s most coveted roles — as that position traditionally went to French designers. There, as Marc Bohan’s successor, Ferré created luxurious and striking gowns that drew on his architecture studies in their sculptural forms while celebrating the long history of the legendary house. He revisited the nipped-waist silhouettes of Dior’s postwar years, and his work dazzled onlookers and exuded femininity. Ferré won the Dé d'Or prize in 1989 for his first collection at the label.
In the early 1990s, Ferré designed the Lady Dior handbag (prior to its 1995 debut, it was called the Chouchou). The boxy top-handled accessory soared to immense popularity after French first lady Bernadette Chirac gave a version in black leather to Diana, Princess of Wales. Each bag, which was eventually named for the Princess, is made from 130 pieces of leather and worked on by seven Dior craftsmen who spend at least eight hours perfecting it.
On 1stDibs, find a collection of vintage Gianfranco Ferré clothing, accessories and handbags and purses.
Gianfranco Ferre Vintage Gold Metal Black Crystals Statement Bracelet
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Rome, Rome
This elegant gold metal link bracelet by Gianfranco Ferré, crafted in the 80s, is a true vintage treasure that exudes timeless style. The polished gold links flow seamlessly, creatin...
Chrome Hearts S925 Extra Fancy Link Bracelet 2010
Located in New York, NY
Authentic Chrome Hearts Extra Fancy link bracelet crafted in solid S925 sterling silver. Features the iconic floral link design with “CH” clasp, marked 2010 and 0.925. Measures 8 inc...
Sterling Silver
Iconic "I Love You" Gold Plated Sterling Bracelet
Located in Chicago, IL
14k yellow Gold over .925 Sterling Silver "I LOVE U" Bracelet by Jane Basch, measuring 7 1/4 inches in length with the letters being 1/2 inch wide, popular for over 50 Years these ha...
Vermeil
18k Yellow Gold 3 Ct Pave Diamond Serpenti Viper Slim Bracelet Size medium
Located in New York, NY
This bangle is not by Bvlgari 18k White Gold 3 Ct Pave Diamond Serpenti Viper Slim Bracelet in a size medium It will fit small to medium wridt It is a tribute to the spirit animal,...
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
David Webb Fishscale Bracelet
By David Webb
Located in New York, NY
Magnificent 1970’S, 18K Yellow Gold David Webb “FISHSCALE” bracelet. This is composed beautifully with braided detailing and unique rope work - hand crafted to perfection. This is a ...
18k Gold
French 1960s Retro 18 Karat Rose Gold Curb Bracelet
Located in Poitiers, FR
Bracelet in 18 karat rose gold, eagle head and rhinoceros head hallmarks. This vintage bracelet features 3 rows of articulated gourmette link. The edges are chased on both sides and ...
Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
0.84Carat 14Kt YellowGold Brilliant Cut Cubic Zirconia Adjustable Chain Bracelet
By Lustre of London
Located in London, GB
This design will never go out of style. Extremely wearable day or evening. Wear alone or layer with our 14 karat rose gold and silver brilliant cut chain bracelets...
Sterling Silver, Yellow Gold, Gold, 14k Gold, Gold Plate, Silver
Ciner 1960s Vintage Sapphire Oval Crystals Clear Flower Circle Cabochon 2 Set
By Ciner
Located in Wokingham, England
Ciner 1960s Vintage Sapphire Navy Blue Oval Whole Crystals Clear Flower Circle Beads Cabochon Charms Link Elegant 2 Set Clip Drop Earrings Bracelet, Silver Tone Very good condition....
Silver Plate
$1,463Sale Price / item|24% Off
14K Yellow Gold 0.16CT Diamond PAPER CLIP Link Bracelet
By Gregory Mikaelian & Sons, Inc.
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Specifications: main stone:ROUND DIAMONDS diamonds:1 PC carat total weight:approximately 0.16 CT color:f clarity:SI brand:CUSTOM MADE metal:14K YELLOW gol...
Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
$4,735Sale Price / item|30% Off
W 0.17 in L 7.5 in
Modern Designer 14 Karat Yellow Gold Diamond Paperclip Link Bracelet for Women
By VR Jewels
Located in New York, NY
Elevate your jewelry collection with this 14 Karat Yellow Gold Diamond Paperclip Link Bracelet, meticulously crafted in a contemporary paperclip link design. Each elongated rectangul...
Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
ArtDeco MarcelBoucher MazerBros GlassAccented DecorativeLink Bracelet, 1930s
By Marcel Boucher
Located in Chicago, IL
Signed with the early "Mazer Bros" signature, this Art-Deco period decorative link bracelet was created in the early 1930s while former Cartier designer Marcel Boucher was the design...
Citrine, Crystal, Gold, Silver, Gilt Metal
Vintage Aquamarine Diamond Onyx Mauboussin Earrings Necklace Bracelet Suite
By Mauboussin
Located in Dallas, TX
Exceptional one-of-a-kind aquamarine diamond and black onyx suite attributed to Mauboussin Paris and set in 18 karat yellow gold. This impressive suite consists of a necklace, bracelet, and earrings and is a vintage creation dating to 1980s. It is emblematic of the bold French high-jewelry glamour of that era. Large aquamarines highlight each individual piece in the suite and feature an ever-elegant emerald-step-cut. The aquamarines display a rich and lively blue color that lights up beautifully as the pieces are worn. They are also characterized by very fine clarity. Vivid aquamarine gemstones float on top of oval 18 karat yellow gold base which is masterfully inlaid with black onyx and encrusted with sparkling fine white diamonds. The necklace and bracelet also feature elegant large oval gold links, surface of which is embellished with decorative ridges, and diamond set short links joining them. Diamonds total approximately 10.5 carats altogether. The juxtaposition of vivid blue aquamarines against elegant black onyx and sumptuous frames of glittering diamonds and luminous yellow gold setting create an incredibly sophisticated and chic statement jewelry. The pieces are in excellent condition and bear French hallmarks of the period including a maker’s mark for Péry & Fils which was one of the main jewelry makers for Mauboussin Paris. For further details please see summary below as well as individual listings for each of these pieces in our 1stdibs store. Suite pricing offers an attractive discount compared to buying each of the pieces individually. Summary: - Vintage suite dating to 1980s masterfully combines large blue aquamarines, elegant black onyx, white diamonds and 18 karate yellow gold into a bold and chic design that makes for high-statement jewelry - Featuring large vivid blue aquamarines of emerald-step-cut and of very fine clarity. Aquamarines altogether weigh an impressive 76 carats (24 carats for the necklace/ 30 carats for the bracelet / 11 carats for each of the earrings) - Featuring altogether approximately 10.5 carats of fine white round diamonds (F-G color) - Necklace measures approximately 16.5 inches (42cm) in length and its center pendant is approximately 1.2 by 1 inch (3cm by 2.6cm); bracelet measures approximately 6.9 inches (17.5cm) in length and its center section is approximately 1.25 by 1 inch (3.2cm by 2.5cm); clip-on earrings (posts for pierced ears can be added) measure 1in (2.5cm) in length and width - Attributed to Mauboussin Paris and with French hallmarks of the period including maker’s mark for Péry & Fils (well know Mauboussin jewelry...
Aquamarine, Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Sterling Silver Christmas Icons Link Bracelet 8" - 925 Tree Santa Reindeer
Located in Greensboro, NC
Metal Content: Sterling Silver Bracelet Style: Link Fastening Type: Lobster Claw Clasp Theme: Christmas Icons, Tree Santa Reindeer Features: Textured Detailing Measurements Chain ...
Sterling Silver