Remembered fondly with a nod to his architecture education as the “Frank Lloyd Wright of Italian Fashion” and the “Architect of Fashion,” Milanese designer Gianfranco Ferré spent a lifetime creating handbags, dresses, jackets and other garments and accessories that were defined by meticulous tailoring and crisp geometry. Designing the iconic Lady Dior handbag after being named artistic director at Dior during the late 1980s is only one of Ferré’s impressive achievements in the fashion industry.
Ferré was born in Legnano and was raised by his mother and two aunts. He studied architecture at Milan Polytechnic but had a love for fashion, and made belts and other items for female friends in his classes. He graduated in 1969.
Ferré’s accessories caught the eye of Rosy Biffi, who operated boutiques in Milan with her sister, Adele. He was encouraged by Biffi to create clothing, and soon began creating jewelry and accessories for Christiane Bailly and Walter Albini. The latter is an unsung hero of 20th-century fashion, while Bailly was part of a small group of prominent young stylistes who helped build a sterling reputation for French ready-to-wear fashion during the 1960s. Ferré’s work was photographed by Italian Vogue, and he secured commissions from the likes of Karl Lagerfeld and Elio Fiorucci.
Ferré appreciated other cultures and drew inspiration from his travels abroad. His most influential trip — a years-long stint in India — saw him bringing bright colors and patterns to his evening dresses and day dresses. While there he created a collection for the Genoa-based San Giorgio Impermeabili. Ferrè designed for brands such as Les Grenouilles and Baila, and met with Italian businessman and clothing manufacturer Franco Mattioli, who would become an important collaborator.
In 1978, Ferré and Mattioli became equal business partners in establishing Ferré’s own label, for which he designed women’s ready-to-wear and menswear collections in Milan. In 1983, he was named the first professor of fashion at the Domus Academy.
While teaching, Ferré won the Occhio d’Oro — Italy’s award for best fashion designer — six times. In 1986, he introduced his first women’s fragrance, his first couture and fur collections, and a new line called Studio 00l. A few years later, Bernard Arnault, owner of Christian Dior, appointed him artistic director.
It was unexpected for an Italian to be given the job at Dior — one of fashion’s most coveted roles — as that position traditionally went to French designers. There, as Marc Bohan’s successor, Ferré created luxurious and striking gowns that drew on his architecture studies in their sculptural forms while celebrating the long history of the legendary house. He revisited the nipped-waist silhouettes of Dior’s postwar years, and his work dazzled onlookers and exuded femininity. Ferré won the Dé d'Or prize in 1989 for his first collection at the label.
In the early 1990s, Ferré designed the Lady Dior handbag (prior to its 1995 debut, it was called the Chouchou). The boxy top-handled accessory soared to immense popularity after French first lady Bernadette Chirac gave a version in black leather to Diana, Princess of Wales. Each bag, which was eventually named for the Princess, is made from 130 pieces of leather and worked on by seven Dior craftsmen who spend at least eight hours perfecting it.
On 1stDibs, find a collection of vintage Gianfranco Ferré Dior dresses, suits, coats and other items on 1stDibs.
Christian Dior Haute Couture by Gianfranco Ferre
By Christian Dior Haute Couture, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in New York, NY
Christian Dior Haute Couture by Gianfranco Ferre of ivory mohair wool with Mongolian Lamb Sleeves. Cropped fitted shape. Handmade rhinestone dome buttons ...
F/W 1992 Christian Dior Gianfranco Ferré Hot Pink Jacquard Cannage Skirt Suit
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in Sheffield, GB
Autumn / Winter 1992 Christian Dior by Gianfranco Ferré Suit, Comprising a blazer & matching skirt. The ensemble features a hot pink two-tone...
Christian Dior coat by Gianfranco Ferré circa 1990-1993
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - A Collection circa 1990/1993, under the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré. Plum cashmere coat with fox fur. Size and composition labels missing, it fits a 36FR/38FR. C...
F/W 1995 Christian Dior by Gianfranco Ferré Tangerine Orange Silk Mohair Jacket
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in Sheffield, GB
Superb Mohair & Raw silk collar-less jacket in a tangerine colour with decorative press stud closure buttons down the front. Designed by Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior’s Fal...
1991 Christian Dior By Gianfranco Ferre Black Silk One Shoulder Gown
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Spring/ Summer 1991 Christian Dior by Gianfranco Ferre black silk once shoulder gown with puffy sleeves and pink silk brooch. 2 layers of silk fit size 6/8...
Christian Dior "Doctor Mini" bag, 1992
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - Mini Doctor bag in red pigskin, gold-tone metal swivel clasp on a rigid frame. Detachable shoulder strap. Sale item. Circa 1992 collection, under the artistic direction of Gia...
A Christian Dior/Gianfranco Ferré Couture Pink Chiffon Dress Circa 1990
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in Toulon, FR
Circa 1989 - 1990 France Cocktail dress in raspberry pink silk muslin from Dior-Gianfranco Ferré. Bodice inspired by 1940's Fashion, fully corseted and lined with matching chiffon si...
Christian Dior blouse by Gianfranco Ferré Winter 1992
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - 1992 Fall-Winter ready-to-wear Collection under the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré. White and red striped silk organza blouse, golden metal buttons topped with impres...
2000's Christian Dior Lavender Satin Skirt Suit From Ferre Era
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in Toronto, Ontario
2000's Christian Dior lavender satin skirt suit from the Gianfranco Ferre era. Tuxedo smoking style jacket with intricately detailed collar and cuffs. Pencil style skirt. In excellen...
S/S 1994 Christian Dior by Gianfranco Ferré Runway Brown Cord Crop Top Vest
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in West Hollywood, CA
This Christian Dior crop top designed by Gianfranco Ferré from the Spring/Summer 1994 collection is crafted from waxed cord arranged in an intricate macramé-style lattice. The front ...
1990s Christian Dior by Gianfranco Ferre Leopard Genuine Python Shoulder Bag
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Gianfranco Ferre designed this incredibly chic Christian Dior leopard print python skin shoulder bag in the early 1990s. This small shoulder bag features a long shape and flap closur...
Christian Dior set animal print by Gianfranco Ferré Winter 1995
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - 1995 Fall-Winter ready-to-wear Collection under the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré. Set composed of a bustier-style black tulle and lamé dress with long sleeves and a...
Dior Bustier Silk Dress Spring, 1993
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Dior - (Made in France) Set composed of a silk bustier dress and a large straw belt with golden threads and trimmings. The dress is split at front and back....
Christian Dior by Gianfranco Ferré silk evening dress
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in PARIS, FR
Christian Dior by Gianfranco Ferré black and white silk evening dress 1990’s era, ivory satin lapel straps, the chiffon skirt gathered at raised waist, with ruffled hem, ruched swag ...
Dior trousers 1990s
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - (Made in France) White linen trousers sewn with ribbons. Size and composition labels missing, it fits a 36FR. Condition: Very good conditi...
Christian Dior Purple Blended Velvet Coat
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Dior - (Made in France) Purple blended velvet coat. 38FR size indicated. Additional information: Condition: Very good condition Dimensions: Shoulder width: 41 cm - Chest: 50 cm - Sl...
Christian Dior Gianfranco Ferre Autumn Sequin Gown Fall/Winter 1990's Size 44FR
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in Saint Petersburg, FL
Christian Dior Gianfranco Ferre Autumn Sequin Evening Gown Fall/Winter 1990's Size 44FR
Silk printed cocktail dress Christian Dior
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Silk printed cocktail dress. Main fabric and lining: 100% silk Zip and hook&eye closure on the middle back. SIZE 40 (Fr) 8 (US)
Christian Dior minaudiere bag by Gianfranco Ferré circa 1995
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - A Collection circa 1995, under the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré. Satin and shagreen minaudiere bag in blue and purple tones. Made in Italy Condition: Very good cond...
Dior briefcase bag by Gianfranco Ferré Spring-Summer 1995
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - Spring/Summer 1995 Ready-to-Wear Collection under the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré. Supple calfskin briefcase with a houndstooth print. Red supple calfskin handle a...
Christian Dior dress Spring-Summer 1992
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - Silk backless dress with an impressive off-white wild-silk dickey collar. The dress has a side split, and a silvery metal jewelry set with rhinestones and red glass paste. No ...
Dior Coral-Pink Cashmere Stole/Shawl with Leather Fringes
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Dior - (Made in Italy) Large coral-pink cashmere shawl edged with leather fringes. To be mentioned, there is a tiny stain around the shoulder. Additional information: Condition: Goo...
CHRISTIAN DIOR Archival SS 1991 Spectacular Coat Dress Swing Overcoat
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in Berlin, BE
Museum worthy piece of Fashion History Absolutely spectacular Canework / Cannage Coat. Christian Dior SS 1991 Collection, numbered archival piece. Famously worn on the Runway and fe...
Christian Dior Gianfranco Ferre Bead Embellished Suit Fall/Winter 1992 Size 36FR
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in Saint Petersburg, FL
Christian Dior Gianfranco Ferre Bead Embellished Suit Fall/Winter 1992 Size 36FR Bodysuit - Size 36FR Skirt - Size 36FR Jacket - Size 38FR Runway 1992
Christian Dior Gianfranco Ferre Runway Black Dress Fall/Winter 1995 Size 34FR
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in Saint Petersburg, FL
Christian Dior Gianfranco Ferre Runway Black Dress with Sheer Sleeves, White Collar and Cuffs. Fall/Winter 1995 Size 36FR Vintage dress size runs small. Fits more like a size 34FR
Christian Dior set 'Impressions d'été' Haute Couture by Gianfranco Ferré Summer
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - 1993 Spring-Summer Haute Couture "Impressions d'été" Collection under the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré. Set composed of an openwork silk satin jacket ornamented wit...
Christian Dior White Pant Jumpsuit, 1993
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Dior - (Made in France) White pant jumpsuit with puffy sleeves, and golden metal and costume pearly buttons. Jumpsuit with a belt entirely embroidered with costume pearls, rhinestone...
Christian Dior set by Gianfranco Ferré Summer 1995
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - 1995 Spring-Summer ready-to-wear Collection under the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré. Cotton canvas set composed of a jacket and a skirt, with an abstract pattern in b...
Christian Dior Red and Black Silk Satin Long Dress
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Dior - (Made in France) Red and black silk satin long dress. No size indicated, it fits a 38FR. Additional information: Condition: Very good conditio...
Christian Dior x Gianfranco Ferre Fall 1994 Gold Knit Waistcoat
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in London, GB
Absolutely precious, super rare vintage Christian Dior waistcoat from Gianfranco Ferre’s Fall 1994 collection. In absolutely immaculate, as ne...
Rariest! Christian Dior FW 1995 suit with skirt runway
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in Алматинский Почтамт, KZ
Rariest! A collector's item! Christian Dior FW 1995 suit with skirt runway size 42 The condition is excellent mannequin 84.5 cm x 62 cm x 91 cm mannequin 33.35 in x 24.49 in x ...
Christian Dior top Haute Couture Winter 1989
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - (Made in France) Black and red silk top with white dots. No size indicated, it fits a 36FR. 1989 Fall-Winter Haute Couture Collection under the direction of Gianfranco Ferré ....
Christian Dior Shawl with Mixed Cashmere and Silk
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Christian Dior - Shawl with mixed cashmere and silk. No composition and brand tag. Additional information: Dimensions: Approx. 143 cm (56.3 in) x 143 cm (56.3 in) Condition: Good g...
F/W 1993 Christian Dior by Gianfranco Ferré Runway Black Bead Sequin Skirt Suit
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Presenting a stunning beaded black wool Christian Dior Boutique skirt suit designed by Gianfranco Ferré. This skirt suit debuted on the Fall/Winter 1993 runway as a set and separatel...
Christian Dior set 1990s
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - (Made in France) Set composed of a black silk short skirt, black silk pants, and a flare fuchsia-pink silk shirt with puffy sleeves ornamented with golden metal cufflinks and ...
1990s Christian Dior by Gianfranco Ferré Black Linen Sleeveless Button Dress
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Presenting a black sleeveless linen Christian Dior Boutique dress designed by Gianfranco Ferré. From the early 1990s, this classically beautiful dr...
Dior silk foulard
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - (Made in France) Red and beige silk foulard printed with woman figures. Condition: Very good condition Dimensions: 90 cm x 90 cm SKU:FFD10
Christian Dior set 1990s
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
CHRISTIAN DIOR - Pink blended linen set composed of a skirt and a jacket, with big braided-straw buttons. No size indicated, it fits a 40FR. A Collection circa 1990 under the artisti...
S/S 1997 Christian Dior by Gianfranco Ferré CD Striped Terrycloth Hooded Robe
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in West Hollywood, CA
From Christian Dior's Spring/Summer 1997 collection under the direction of Gianfranco Ferré, this luxurious hooded robe features a bold black-and-white pattern, oversized pockets, an...
Christian Dior Golden Metal Belt with Glass Cabochons, 1990
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - Golden metal belt with glass cabochons. A 1990 circa Collection. Additional information: Condition: Good condition Dimensions: Length: 86 cm Seller Reference: BC60
Christian Dior Boutique Vintage Black Linen Bustier Dress - 1990s Ferré Era
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in Charenton-le-pont, FR
An elegant example of Gianfranco Ferré's architectural vision for Christian Dior. This 1990s cocktail dress is crafted in France from premium 100% black linen, featuring sculptural p...
Christian Dior Leather Jacket, 1995
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Dior - (Made in France) Leather jacket with a black and white houndstooth patterns. No size indicated, it fits a 36FR. 1995 Spring-Summer Collection, under the direction of Gian Fran...
F/W 1995 Christian Dior by Gianfranco Ferré Leopard Print Embroidered Dress
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in West Hollywood, CA
This Christian Dior Boutique dress from the Fall/Winter 1995 collection, designed by Gianfranco Ferré, features a long-sleeved metallic leopard print bodice over a black pencil skirt...
Christian Dior set 1996
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - (Made in France) Velvet set composed of pants and a jacket with tails, with prince of Wales check pattern in red, blue, and green tones, and edged with black lace. No size ind...
Christian Dior belt
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - (Made in France) Golden leather belt with a red large grain ribbon and a golden metal buckle. Condition: Good condition Dimensions: Length: 75 cm SKU:ACC260
S/S 1991 Christian Dior by Gianfranco Ferré Runway Sheer Polka Dot Lace Dress
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Presenting a sensual yellow and black knit Christian Dior Boutique dress, designed by Gianfranco Ferré. From the Spring/Summer 1991 collection, thi...
F/W 1991 Christian Dior by Gianfranco Ferré Gambler Earring Skirt Suit
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior, Christian Dior
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Presenting a Las Vegas chic-inspired Christian Dior Boutique skirt suit designed by Gianfranco Ferré. This look debuted from the Fall/Winter 1991 collection as look number 63 on the ...
Skirt suit by Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior Haute Couture Circa 1995
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in Toulon, FR
Circa 1990-1995 France Haute couture skirt suit by Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior dating from the 1990s. Tuxedo jacket and fitted skirt in cardinal purple wool twill. Hip-length...
Christian Dior jacket
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - Patterned velvet jacket. Golden metal buttons with glass paste. No size indicated, it fits a 36FR. A Collection circa 1990, under the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré. ...
Christian Dior skirt
By Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - (Made in France) Mid-length white skirt with a golden strip and a black skirt bottom edged with white trimmings and golden embroidery. Size 42FR indicated. A Collection circa ...