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Maison Martin Margiela

French

Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, and designs for handbags, clothing and shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following the 1988 debut of Maison Martin Margiela, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.

Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”

Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.

Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century.

Margiela decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier. With Belgian designer Jenny Meirens, Margiela established Maison Martin Margiela in the French capital in 1988. 

Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd.

The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.

While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.

“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”

John Galliano was named creative director at the house in 2014 and it rebranded as Maison Margiela in 2015.

Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.

Average Sold Price
$1,561
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Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR

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rare MARTIN MARGIELA ARTISANAL black fabric fringed tassel pom pom belt

rare MARTIN MARGIELA ARTISANAL black fabric fringed tassel pom pom belt

By Maison Martin Margiela

Located in Hong Kong, NT

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21st Century and Contemporary Maison Martin Margiela

unworn 1999 MARTIN MARGIELA sheer 'crushed' black RUNWAY skirt
unworn 1999 MARTIN MARGIELA sheer 'crushed' black RUNWAY skirt

unworn 1999 MARTIN MARGIELA sheer 'crushed' black RUNWAY skirt

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Located in San Fransisco, CA

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1990s Italian Maison Martin Margiela

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Maison Martin Margiela 1stRetrospective Sheer Black Convertible Veil Wrap Apron

Maison Martin Margiela 1stRetrospective Sheer Black Convertible Veil Wrap Apron

By Maison Martin Margiela

Located in Chicago, IL

As a variation of the traditional waiter apron that Belgian former fashion designer Martin Margiela reworked with his eponymous Maison Martin Margiela since its first collection for Spring/Summer 1989, this minimalist convertible transparent black chiffon rectangular garment, which can be styled as a tied face veil, jabot, wrap skirt or dress, was part of his 1994 first retrospective collection. The iconic corner-stitched textural white cotton brand label is stenciled with seemingly contradictory text referencing an earlier Fall/Winter 1990 collection. Instead of the blank label that had become internationally recognized among progressive fashion buyers during the brand's initial five years, this black print was added in this manner for only one collection during its founder's tenure. This distinct typography identifies the garment as one of his favorites that he reproduced from his first 10 fashion shows. This season-less self-curated retrospective collection without any new designs was unprecedented in the ready-to-wear luxury-fashion industry, which sold only newly-designed clothes typically two to five times annually. In the early 1990s, this old-made-new-again collection was astonishing for a Paris-based high-end brand, for which any lack of fresh designs for Spring had otherwise been attributed to the loss of an artistic director or the outbreak of war. Nevertheless, there are subtle differences of color, material and draping possibilities that make our re-edition unique from the referenced 1990 apron and from later "replicas", which was the term that Margiela printed on a different kind of label for his second self-curated retrospective in Spring 1999 following 10 more collections. Aside from the text-printed brand label with four characteristic hand-sewn corner stitches, the only other element that unified Margiela's first collection of favorites was that all the items were overdyed a darker color so that the clothes were various shades of grey, blue or black depending on the original color of the textile and how much dye the thread/yarn absorbed. The first Margiela apron...

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1990s Italian Maison Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela White Shirt with Elaborate Cutout Back
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A gorgeous white cotton shirt from Martin Margiela. It has long sleeves with cuffs, a shirt collar and button front. The back is stunning in a chevron pattern of the same fabric lea...

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2010s Italian Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Martin Margiela Miss Deanna Trompe L'oeil Lurex Knit Pullover FW1999
Maison Martin Margiela Miss Deanna Trompe L'oeil Lurex Knit Pullover FW1999

Maison Martin Margiela Miss Deanna Trompe L'oeil Lurex Knit Pullover FW1999

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When Belgian former fashion designer Martin Margiela debuted gold Lurex knits while French luxury-goods Hermes Womenswear Artistic Director, simultaneously for Fall/Winter 1999, he introduced at his eponymous Paris-based Maison Martin Margiela a collection featuring 1970s-inspired Lurex-accented sweaters, along with oversized loose clothes intended for either women or men. Including a distinct printed tag stitched into a seam by Italian knitwear innovator Miss Deanna, who created many iconic knits under Margiela's artistic direction, this Margiela sparkly finely-knit long-sleeve pullover in a Lurex and viscose stretch blend is a minimalist unisex design with narrow ribbed trim at the crewneck, wrists and hem. Its "Made In Italy" size 44 with a 15.5-inch shoulder-line is without darts and drapes like a one-size-fits-most soft T-shirt. Presenting the optical illusion of a dark tube top and detached sleeves worn underneath, the lightweight sweater was knit from pale-gold, grey and blue yarns into a ombre pattern like a spray-painted gradient or dip-dyed fabric. Yet the additional glittery orange-tone metallic thread (difficult to photograph due to reflections) woven throughout proves that it was not painted or dyed, but an experimental complex knitwear manufacturing technique by Miss Deanna. While we have sold Lurex distorted sweaters by Miss Deanna from the F/W 1999 collection with matching label text formatting and a blank Margiela brand label, none of them included a conceptual trompe-l'oeil of another garment in reference to earlier collections, which suggests that this is among a Margiela-commissioned one-off comparable to her initial Artisanal knits. Later for Margiela's first diffusion collections, Miss Deanna mass-produced knits for Line 6, which were identified by the house's new brand label with a circled numeral among the Line numbers from 0 to 23. This more affordable Line evolved into MM6. Comparatively, Margiela's Fall 1999 Artisanale Line 0 collection, which was instead produced by his Parisian team, explored the textural effects of hand-painting fabrics, such as the unisex T-shirts that were striped or obscured with thick silver paint. Earlier in the 1990s, Margiela had reproduced some vintage...

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1990s Italian Maison Martin Margiela

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Maison Martin Margiela Sale Prices

Sold DateSold PriceCategoryPeriod
2026$890Skirts1990s
2026$766Clamper BraceletsEarly 2000s
2026$590Sweaters1990s
2026$5,620Pullovers1990s
2026$1,000Coats and Outerwear1990s
2026$3,250JacketsEarly 2000s
2026$273Jeans21st Century and Contemporary
2026$495PantsEarly 2000s
2026$517Maxi DressEarly 2000s
2026$1,420ShoesEarly 2000s
2026$2,404JacketsEarly 2000s
2026$440Halter Tops20th Century
2026$200Books1990s
2026$2,800Evening Dresses and Gowns1990s
2025$656Pullovers1990s
2025$930Crossbody Bags and Messenger Bags1990s
2025$734BlousesEarly 2000s
2025$400Belts1990s
2025$1,185Coats and Outerwear1990s
2025$1,810SkirtsEarly 2000s
$1,561
Average sold price of items in the past 12 months
$200-$5,620
Sold price range of items in the past 12 months

Designers Similar to Maison Martin Margiela

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Find an extraordinary range of authentic Maison Martin Margiela fashion available on 1stDibs. If you’re browsing our collection of unique vintage and designer fashion to elevate your daily look or to introduce new colors to the dazzling formal wear in your wardrobe, this designer’s body of work includes elements of red, blue, purple and other tones. Customers who are interested in this designer might also find the work of Stella McCartney, Emanuel Ungaro, and Donatella Versace appealing. On 1stDibs, find haute couture, vintage and designer Maison Martin Margiela fashion from top boutiques around the world. Maison Martin Margiela fashion prices can differ depending upon time period and other attributes. On 1stDibs, the price for these items starts at $60 and tops out at $38,481, while the average work can sell for $850.
Questions About Maison Martin Margiela
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    John Galliano is currently creative director of the French fashion house Maison Margiela, previously called Maison Martin Margiela. In the past, he has been the creative director for Givenchy and Christian Dior. Browse a range of expertly vetted Maison Margiela pieces from top sellers on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    The key to spotting fake Maison Martin Margiela products is quality. The Maison Margiela brand is known for designer-level craftsmanship and materials. An authentic Maison Margiela product should have neat, even stitching, a crisp logo and high level of attention to detail. Shop an array of expertly vetted Maison Margiela pieces from top boutiques on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    Maison Martin Margiela, now simply called Maison Margiela, is a French fashion house founded in 1988. It was first founded by Belgian designer Martin Margiela and takes inspiration from avant-garde styling. On 1stDibs, find a range of authentic Maison Margiela pieces.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 16, 2024
    The story of what happened to Maison Martin Margiela is one of changes in creative direction. In 2009, Martin Margiela left the celebrated fashion house that he founded, and during the subsequent years, the brand lacked a creative director to guide its work. That changed in 2014, when John Galliano took on the role. On 1stDibs, explore a diverse assortment of Maison Martin Margiela apparel and accessories.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    The upscale sporty style of Maison Martin Margiela sneakers gives them versatile styling possibilities. While how you wear them is up to personal preference, they can be dressed up with a breezy sundress, paired with classic jeans and a tee, or dressed down with joggers and a tank. Shop a selection of Maison Margiela sneakers on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertOctober 15, 2024
    Yes, Maison Margiela is real. Belgian designer Martin Margiela founded the luxury fashion house in 1988. His pieces captured the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. The notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009. John Galliano was named creative director at the house in 2014, and it rebranded as Maison Margiela in 2015. On 1stDibs, shop a variety of Maison Margiela apparel and accessories.
  • 1stDibs ExpertMarch 15, 2024
    Yes, Maison Margiela is well known. In fact, the fashion house's clothing designs and vintage shoes have become cult-collector obsessions in recent years. Founder Martin Margiela has gained acclaim for toying with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today through pieces like his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies and his Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels. On 1stDibs, shop a diverse assortment of Maison Margiela apparel and accessories.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022
    No, Maison Margiela is not owned by L’Oréal. The Italian company OTB Group owns Maison Margiela as of January 2022. L'Oréal is a separate French company. On 1stDibs, shop a range of Maison Margiela apparel and accessories from some of the world’s top sellers.
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 21, 2024
    Yes, Maison Margiela is a luxury brand. Established by Belgian designer Martin Margiela in 1988, the fashion house is known for its avant-garde approach to design, and its runway shows often challenge prevailing style conventions. Many celebrities are fans of the brand, including Rihanna, Cardi B, Doja Cat, Paul Bettany, Megan Fox and Kendall Jenner. On 1stDibs, explore a selection of Maison Margiela apparel and accessories.
  • 1stDibs ExpertJune 6, 2024
    No, Maison Margiela is not an Italian brand. The luxury fashion house is actually French. Belgian fashion designer Martin Margiela founded the brand in 1988 in Paris with fellow designer Jenny Meirens. Today, the maison maintains its headquarters in the city. However, the Italian corporation OTB Group now owns it. On 1stDibs, shop a selection of Maison Margiela apparel and accessories.
  • 1stDibs ExpertApril 26, 2024
    Opinions on how Maison Margiela shoes fit vary. Many online reviewers state that the luxury fashion house's footwear runs true to size, but a small number state that they run small. To ensure a comfortable fit, the best approach is to measure your foot and compare it to the brand's official sizing chart prior to selecting a size. Find an assortment of Maison Margiela shoes on 1stDibs.
  • 1stDibs ExpertAugust 8, 2024
    The difference between MM6 and Maison Margiela comes down to focus. Maison Margiela is the main couture line produced by the French luxury fashion house of the same name. MM6 is a diffusion line of contemporary sportswear priced more economically to appeal to a younger demographic. Find a collection of Maison Margiela apparel and accessories on 1stDibs.