Throughout the early 20th century, Marcus & Co. established a reputation as one of the finest American producers of Art Nouveau jewelry. The firm’s innovative techniques included the use of plique-à-jour enameling. During the 1900s, this rare method was used by only three other jewelry companies in the United States — Tiffany & Co., Riker Bros. and Whiteside and Blank.
Marcus & Co. was founded in 1892, in New York City, by Herman Marcus and his son William. Herman was born and raised in Germany, where he worked as a jeweler for Ellemeyer, the court jewelers of Dresden, before moving to the United States in 1850.
After arriving in New York City, Herman worked as a designer at several prestigious luxury firms, including Ball, Black & Co., Tiffany & Co. and was a partner at Starr and Marcus before he went into business with William. Later, they were joined by Herman’s other son, George.
Herman worked with his sons until his death in 1899, when William and George expanded the firm to include a silversmithing department to make serveware. However, Marcus & Co. focused mainly on jewelry design and manufacturing, offering Revival-style pieces.
In 1900, the company exhibited a series of striking orchid motif brooches at the Exposition Universelle in Paris. The brooches attracted critical acclaim for their plique-à-jour enameling and intricate detail — characteristics that would become Marcus & Co.’s signature.
The company’s Art Nouveau jewelry took shape during the 1920s and 1930s. Cocktail rings, engagement rings, necklaces and cufflinks featured fine diamonds, natural pearls and gems rarely seen during that period, such as peridots, zircons, spinels and chrysoberyls. Marcus & Co.’s designs were comparable by critics to fine art jewelry made by René Lalique and attracted high-profile clientele like business tycoon John D. Rockefeller.
Despite Marcus & Co.’s success, the firm closed briefly during World War II. In 1962, they merged with the company Black, Starr & Frost.
Marcus & Co. pieces are still highly coveted among jewelry collectors. The firm’s Art Nouveau plique-à-jour accessories, a technique that sees enamel powder applied to cells on a thin sheet of copper foil or mica and then etched away — instead applying the enamel directly to metal — are particularly collectible. In 2011, a Morning Glory plique-à-jour pendant brooch and chain made in 1900 sold at a Sotheby’s auction for $302,500.
On 1stDibs, discover antique Marcus & Co. brooches, rings and decorative objects.
Art Deco Marcus & Co. 14.33 Carat Oval Cabochon Cut Jade Diamond Platinum Ring
By Marcus & Co.
Located in Greenwich, CT
The power of jade is said to bring the wearer good luck, wealth, and prosperity, and this Art Deco Marcus & Co. natural 14.33 carat oval cabochon cut jade diamond platinum ring exude...
Diamond, Jade, Platinum
Yellow Gold Nephrite Jade Cocktail Solitaire Ring -14k Oval Cabochon Leaf Border
Located in Greensboro, NC
Size: 5 1/2 Sizing Fee: Up 3 sizes for $35 or Down 1 size for $35 Metal Content: 14k Yellow Gold Stone Information Natural Nephrite Jade Treatment: Routinely Enhanced Cut: Oval Ca...
Jade, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
$238,400Sale Price|20% Off
Tiffany & Co. 4.49 Carat Round Cut Diamond Platinum Solitaire Ring
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Chicago, IL
Tiffany & Co. 4.49 ct Total Weight Platinum Round Brilliant Cut Diamond Solitaire Engagement Ring. The ring weighs 8.5 grams, size 6.5 (sizable to most finger size), the center ston...
Diamond, White Diamond, Platinum
Art Deco Marcus & Co. Platinum 12 Carat No Heat Oval Sapphire Diamond Ring
By Marcus & Co.
Located in Cape May, NJ
This rare Art Deco Marcus & Co. Platinum 12 Carat No Heat Sapphire Diamond Ring is a true masterpiece that combines timeless elegance with exceptional craftsmanship. Created by the r...
Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum
Oval Cabochon Green Jade Diamond Ring 14K Yellow Gold
Located in Honolulu, HI
Item Specifications: Metal: 14k Yellow Gold Style: Statement Ring Ring Size: 7.5 (resizing available for a fee) Total Weight: 9.9 Grams Gemstone Specifications: Center Gemston...
Jade, Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Art Nouveau Jade Cabochon Ring of 14k Gold, Circa 1920
Located in Lewisburg, PA
An elegant jewel (circa 1920), this antique ring showcases a luminous jade cabochon nestled within a floral-inspired 14k gold setting. The naturalistic design reflects the era’s fascination with organic forms and harmonious artistry, with the goldwork embracing the cabochon in a graceful botanical motif. The ring’s face measures approximately 0.7 inches from north to south, creating a bold yet refined presence on the hand. It remains in great antique condition, with both the jade and the gold setting beautifully preserved. Currently a size 4, the ring can be professionally resized upon request for an additional charge, ensuring a tailored fit for modern wearers. For added assurance of authenticity and quality, the gold has been professionally tested using X-ray fluorescence (XRF) analysis and traditional acid testing, confirming its 14k fineness. A timeless treasure from the early 20th century, this Art Nouveau jade ring...
Jade, 14k Gold
Vintage Platinum Art Deco 0.66 Carat Old European Cut Diamond Ring
Located in Montgomery, AL
We are loving the magnificent details on this lovely antique diamond ring! Ring Details Material: Platinum Era: Art Deco 1920 - 1940 Head Height: 5.6mm Head Width: 8.1mm Shank Width...
Diamond, Platinum
Art Deco Diamond Ring, 900 Platinum Old Mine Cut 5 3/4 Genuine .71 Carat
Located in Greensboro, NC
Carry forward the time-honored values of true love and lifetime commitment when you propose with a vintage engagement ring! This exquisite ring is an Art Deco piece dating from the 1...
Diamond, Platinum
.84 Carat Mine Cut Diamond Art Deco Ring 14 Karat Gold and Platinum GIA Vintage
Located in Greensboro, NC
This ring is a size 4 1/4 - 4 1/2, but it can be re-sized up 2 sizes for a $25 fee. Once a ring is re-sized, we guarantee the work but we are unable to offer a refund on the sizing. ...
Diamond, 14k Gold, Platinum
$20,800Sale Price|20% Off
Tiffany & Co. 1.00 Carat Princess Cut Diamond Platinum Ring
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Chicago, IL
This exquisite engagement ring by Tiffany & Co. exemplifies the brand’s timeless elegance and exceptional craftsmanship. At its center is a stunning 1.00 carat princess-cut diamo...
Diamond, Platinum
$24,000Sale Price|20% Off
GIA Certified 1.38 Carat Art Deco Old Cut Pear Diamond Platinum Ring
By Antinori Fine Jewels
Located in Chicago, IL
Crafted in timeless platinum, this elegant vintage-inspired engagement ring is centered with a GIA certified 1.38 carat pear-shaped diamond, graded G color and SI2 clarity. The cente...
Diamond, White Diamond, Platinum
Tiffany & Co. Contemporary 1.09 CT Oval Cut Diamond Platinum Solitaire Ring
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Centering an oval cut diamond weighing 1.09 carats - E color with VS1 clarity Set in a pierced basket flanked by cathedral shoulders Flanked by knife edge shoulders Inscribed with ca...
Diamond, Platinum
Art Deco Oval Jade Ring in 14k Yellow Gold
Located in Honolulu, HI
Item Specifications: Metal: 14K Yellow Gold Style: Statement Ring Ring Size: 7.25 (resizing available for a fee) Total Weight: 5.6 Grams Gemstone Specifications: Center Gemsto...
Jade, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold
Jacob & Co. is considered expensive for a few reasons. For one thing, the watch collectors of the world know the watchmaker for its multicolored-gemstone designs as well as its oversized and innovative complications. There are substantial costs related to the design, assembly and premium materials associated with Jacob & Co.’s luxury watches, which are painstakingly crafted in Switzerland and sold all over the world. The price tag reflects the brand’s use of meticulously sourced round brilliant cut diamonds and metals such as 18-karat gold. Additionally, only a limited number of timepieces leave the watchmaker's workshops each year, so demand usually far exceeds supply. Find Jacob & Co. watches for sale on 1stDibs.