Throughout the early 20th century, Marcus & Co. established a reputation as one of the finest American producers of Art Nouveau jewelry. The firm’s innovative techniques included the use of plique-à-jour enameling. During the 1900s, this rare method was used by only three other jewelry companies in the United States — Tiffany & Co., Riker Bros. and Whiteside and Blank.
Marcus & Co. was founded in 1892, in New York City, by Herman Marcus and his son William. Herman was born and raised in Germany, where he worked as a jeweler for Ellemeyer, the court jewelers of Dresden, before moving to the United States in 1850.
After arriving in New York City, Herman worked as a designer at several prestigious luxury firms, including Ball, Black & Co., Tiffany & Co. and was a partner at Starr and Marcus before he went into business with William. Later, they were joined by Herman’s other son, George.
Herman worked with his sons until his death in 1899, when William and George expanded the firm to include a silversmithing department to make serveware. However, Marcus & Co. focused mainly on jewelry design and manufacturing, offering Revival-style pieces.
In 1900, the company exhibited a series of striking orchid motif brooches at the Exposition Universelle in Paris. The brooches attracted critical acclaim for their plique-à-jour enameling and intricate detail — characteristics that would become Marcus & Co.’s signature.
The company’s Art Nouveau jewelry took shape during the 1920s and 1930s. Cocktail rings, engagement rings, necklaces and cufflinks featured fine diamonds, natural pearls and gems rarely seen during that period, such as peridots, zircons, spinels and chrysoberyls. Marcus & Co.’s designs were comparable by critics to fine art jewelry made by René Lalique and attracted high-profile clientele like business tycoon John D. Rockefeller.
Despite Marcus & Co.’s success, the firm closed briefly during World War II. In 1962, they merged with the company Black, Starr & Frost.
Marcus & Co. pieces are still highly coveted among jewelry collectors. The firm’s Art Nouveau plique-à-jour accessories, a technique that sees enamel powder applied to cells on a thin sheet of copper foil or mica and then etched away — instead applying the enamel directly to metal — are particularly collectible. In 2011, a Morning Glory plique-à-jour pendant brooch and chain made in 1900 sold at a Sotheby’s auction for $302,500.
On 1stDibs, discover antique Marcus & Co. brooches, rings and decorative objects.
Antique Marcus & Co Platinum Diamond Pocket Watch Vintage Wind Up Monogram
By Marcus & Co.
Located in Greer, SC
Antique Marcus & Co. pocket watch with dazzling diamonds set in platinum. Featuring a monogram centerpiece, this small but gorgeous watch measures 1 inch in diameter with a total dro...
Diamond, Platinum
Marcus & Co. 18Kt Gold Custom Made Equestrian Themed Watch circa 1930's
By Marcus & Co.
Located in Long Beach, CA
FACTORY / HOUSE: C.H Meylan / Marcus & Co. STYLE / REFERENCE: Art Deco / Equestrian Theme METAL / MATERIAL: 18Kt Solid Two Tone Gold and Enamel CIRCA / YEAR: 1930's DIMENSIONS / SIZE...
18k Gold
Rolex Datejust Pearlmaster 18KT Diamond MOP Ladies Watch
By Rolex
Located in Vero Beach, FL
The most feminine watch from Rolex……………………………. 18KT, Diamonds and Mother-of-Pearl……………………………… Model: Rolex Datejust Pearlmaster Case Material: 18k Yellow Gold Case #: 80298 Serial : P192872 Movement: Automatic Year Model was Manufactured: 2000-2009 Case Size: 32.00 mm. Strap measures 15.00 mm. to 12.00 mm. to the deployment buckle Dial: Mother-of Pearl Diamond Markers and Diamond Bracelet Display: Analog Movement: 31 Jewel Chronometer Bezel Type: Diamond Country/Region of Manufacture: Switzerland Band Material: 18k Yellow Gold, Diamonds Features: Date Has been serviced. Original Rolex blue jewelry box...
Diamond, 18k Gold
Art Nouveau Antique Gold Diamond Lapel Pocket Watch
Located in New York, NY
Antique Art Nouveau 18k gold pocket watch, high relief case, decorated with diamonds. Case is 23mm in diameter. With porcelain dial and original filigree hands. Suspended on a 14k gold Nouveau floral...
Diamond, Gold
Vintage Illinois Gold-Filled Pocket Watch
By Illinois Watch Company
Located in Laguna Beach, CA
Illinois gold-filled pocket watch. Open face, Size 12, Model 117 jewel double roller mechanism, 3/4 plate. Crown time set. Serial number 4067885, made in 1923. Fancy Octagon case and...
Gold-filled
Rolex Datejust 18kt Yellow Gold/Stainless Steel Mens Watch
By Rolex
Located in New York, NY
Mens Rolex- Datejust Date: 1972 36 mm Preowned Reference: 1600 18kt yellow and stainless steel
Yellow Gold, Stainless Steel
Patek Philippe Platinum Diamond Art Deco Pocket Watch
By Patek Philippe
Located in Chicago, IL
Circa 1930s Patek Philippe Pocket watch, 44 M.M Platinum 3 piece case, Caliber 2680 "special" 18 Jewel mechanical, manual wind nickle lever movement, signed: Patek Philippe and also ...
Diamond, Platinum
Antique 1910s Edwardian Tiffany Co. Pocket Watch
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
Finely crafted in 18k yellow gold and blue enamel. Signed by Tiffany & Co. Circa 1910s Watch 1 1/2 x 1 inches Chain 23 inches + 3 inch drop
18k Gold, Enamel
Antique American Waltham Watch Co. Circa 1901 Brass Pocket Watch W Display Back
By American Waltham Watch Co.
Located in Mount Kisco, NY
Enjoy viewing the beautiful acid etched 15 jewel movement through the added display skeleton backside as this classic 1901 American Waltham Pocket Watch Model...
Brass
M.J Tobias Oversized Silver Key Wind Pocket Watch circa 1840's
Located in Long Beach, CA
FACTORY / HOUSE: M.J Tobias STYLE / REFERENCE: Hunters Case Key Wind METAL / MATERIAL: Silver CIRCA / YEAR: 1840's DIMENSIONS / SIZE: Diameter 57mm MOVEMENT / CALIBER: Manual Key Win...
Silver
$14,500
H 1.44 in W 1.38 in L 6.88 in
Vintage Tiffany & Co. Pocket Watch Pendant Platinum Diamond Estate Jewelry
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
A rare vintage Tiffany & Co. Art Deco Revival pocket watch made in platinum and accentuated with round transitional cut diamonds. This classic Art Deco style Tiffany watch can be worn as a pendant. The proportions of the face and the square shape case are perfectly balanced. Alternated polished and matte finish platinum steps decorate both sides of the case. The face’s perimeter is adorned with the round cut and baguette cut diamonds. The dial has onyx round hour markers and equipped with the sword style hands. The movement is mechanical, manual-wind. The vintage pocket watch pendant is made of platinum and set with round transitional cut diamonds (H-I color, VS clarity, total weight approximately 0.80 carat). The vintage Tiffany pendant...
Diamond, Platinum
Vintage Omega Mechanical Automatic Watch 18kt
Located in New York, NY
Geneve Ladies Watch Circa 1970's High grade Swiss Mechanical Movement Working Order. 7 inch Wearable Length 36 grams 17mm diameter case
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
$568Sale Price|20% Off
Carlo Zini Vintage 18kt Gold Dipped Rhinestone Watch, 1990s Design
By Carlo Zini
Located in Gazzaniga (BG), IT
Amazing Carlo Zini Milano jewel watch One of the greatest bijoux creators of all times Vintage piece from late 80's / early 90's Perfectly working Quartz movement 18kt gold dipped P...
Tiffany & Co. Atlas Z1902.10.40E10A Unisex Watch in 18kt White Gold
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
Tiffany & Co. Atlas Z1902.10.40E10A Unisex Watch in 18kt White Gold SKU: 143805 PRIMARY DETAILS Brand: Tiffany & Co. Model: Atlas Country of Origin: Switzerland Movement T...
Marcus and Co. Art Deco Platinum Diamond Watch
By Marcus & Co.
Located in Narberth, PA
A very stylish Marcus and Co. platinum and diamond watch from the Art Deco (ca1920s) era! This stunning timepiece features a flat octagonal face set in a sleek platinum encasement. A total of 1.35ctw of sparkling diamonds line the uniquely shaped face, each micro-prong set within the wide frame. On the face of the watch are black hand painted numbers and metallic black hands above a creamy background. A smooth piece of octagonal polished crystal covers the surface of the watch face, resting slightly higher than the encasement, a lovely and unique detail. Ornate engraved detail lines the edges of the watch case, and a simple winder can be found at the side. The back of the watch, which can be fully removed, is stamped on the interior "PLATINUM" and "11613," alongside the makers mark for Marcus & Company, Inc. Once open, the working watch movement inside is revealed. The movement itself has several marks including "H Weyland," "UNADJUSTED SEVENTEEN," "17 JEWELS," "SWISS MADE," The band is grosgrain with platinum fend catch. A fabulous timepiece, this vintage ladies watch would be perfect for a special occasion or everyday wear! Measurements: The platinum watch face...
Diamond, Platinum
Jacob & Co. is considered expensive for a few reasons. For one thing, the watch collectors of the world know the watchmaker for its multicolored-gemstone designs as well as its oversized and innovative complications. There are substantial costs related to the design, assembly and premium materials associated with Jacob & Co.’s luxury watches, which are painstakingly crafted in Switzerland and sold all over the world. The price tag reflects the brand’s use of meticulously sourced round brilliant cut diamonds and metals such as 18-karat gold. Additionally, only a limited number of timepieces leave the watchmaker's workshops each year, so demand usually far exceeds supply. Find Jacob & Co. watches for sale on 1stDibs.