1940s Ephemera

Lovely enamel maiden portrait on 800 silver round pillbox. Silver has decorative hand etching throughout. 1.5" x 3/8". Italy 1950's. Very Good condition.

A rare vintage 1980s Gucci Italian table lighter in Lucite acrylic and metal chrome, stamped Gucci Made in Italy on the base. It splits in the middle as a vacuum hidden space for cigarettes or whatever you wish tucked away. It releases with a twist and has a Lucite push rod that is spring driven. The top s a Ronson lighter...

Astrakhan Mink Ambassador Cossack Hat 1960´s 100% Real Astrakhan Fur from Karakul Breed of Sheep. Mink Cossack Style Hat Real Mink Hair - Ranch Raised, Incredibly Luxurious Mink hair...

As conceptual art while he transitioned to Hermes Creative Director in 1998, Belgian Martin Margiela--whose creations today debut in the setting of a contemporary-art gallery priced at upwards of EU$150,000--created this stenciled or block print. Conceived by arguably the most culturally influential contemporary fashion designer since Gabriel "Coco" Chanel, it is part of a limited-edition-of-two white-boxed set that includes the couture Maison Martin Margiela "Artisanal Line 0" body-harness lingerie in its maker's signature color white for Spring 1998. The same lingerie--one white and the other black--starred in a film made by Margiela among the five that he screened to present his Spring/Summer 1998 "Flat Collection" in Paris at the Conciergerie. In that film titled "4", which begins with a view of the iconic topless tabi "boots", the hands of Margiela's white-labcoat-clad assistants enter the frame to manipulate different garments on a model who initially wears the exterior lingerie (see our photos) as if jewelry. A simple dark collared coat, a white collared button-down shirt, and a dark button-down cardigan--all with the "displaced neckline" or "displaced shoulder" of the flat-hanging clothes--are transformed into new collarless plunging v-neck garments, which appear to be ruched when folded under the harness of the lingerie. Both black versions of the lingerie are in museum collections. In Martin Margiela's home-country, the ModeMuseum (MoMu) archived its collected piece as OBJ7660. In the 2018 Parisian retrospective exhibition at Musee de la Mode/Palais Galleria when its artistic director was Martin Margiela (working with Curator Alexandre Samson), the second black lingerie was featured on a mannequin and collected the same year by the Vogue Paris Foundation. Other conceptual designs from this same 1998 collection of jewelry were acquired by TheMet museum in Manhattan. Without the restriction of the use and function of clothing, the small uncreased print--on a card that can be removed from the interior-box bottom that it loosely spans--shows the buyer how to endlessly fashion unique tops using the structural-elastic lingerie as an undergarment for their own pre-worn button-down shirts. This is a more obvious example of the once avant-garde concept of anti-fashion upcycling that Martin Margiela introduced to challenge social and fashion-industry norms by the 1990s, which echos the revolutionary anti-art of Marcel Duchamp. Essentially, valuable art/fashion can be made from everyday vintage objects. While Duchamp did so in 1917 with a men's porcelain urinal titled "Fountain" attached to a gallery exhibition wall, they both made the point that it is the way that such items are reassembled that can make the result a progressive statement. What makes the print so special and worthy of framing for display is that, without words, the three numbered images on a single white card encapsulate the before-its-time fashion manifesto of Martin Margiela to recycle fashion in remarkable new wearable ways, such as harnessed by his unique lingerie. According to The New York Times in its 2021 feature-story that reflected on his radical fashion design and delved into his crossover art, Margiela "changed how we dressed in the 1990s", while his art embodies "the visionary man he has always been." At a turning-point shortly after Margiela designed this couture set in 1997, his personal manifesto became more difficult to accomplish in his fashion career as the new leader of France's historic luxury fashion-house Hermes, for which his first womenswear collection was presented for Autumn/Winter 1998. Frustrated by the limitations of the industrialized luxury trade and conglomerate conflicts with his closely guarded privacy, the famously "invisible" designer pre-maturely retired from the fashion industry in 2009 to independently build on his clever artistry in other mediums. Margiela continues to demonstrate what he often told his fashion teams: "The less you have, the more creative you are as a designer." This minimal finely-crafted lingerie without size or gender restriction--composed of adjustable "polya-elasthanne" straps with a clear anti-slip strip on the underside and three silver-plated metal double-rings--can be worn either as a concealed structural undergarment or as a visible jewelry-like body harness in appreciation of its meaning as a foundation for recycling fashion, pure form, and meaningful color. While the initial Maison Martin Margiela ready-to-wear brand tag until the late 1990s was a distinct corner-sewn unbranded white label accompanied by tags for origin and materials/care, the couture version for this lingerie is a single tiny white unbranded tag stitched in a line near the end of the waist strap, noting in English, "Made In France," with succinct material/care identification. The set's original white unbranded box and its white black-typed couture-identification sticker complete the "invisible-brand" aesthetic. We interpret the black-type codes on the aged box-sticker (“E98 ST HAUT; Struct Elas Blanc; 02; TU"): Spring 1998 Haute Couture; white structural-elastic garment; Artisanal Line 0 edition of two; one size only. The print, lingerie and box are in very good condition as shown in the photos with only one mark on the rear edge of the exterior box-lid. Although initially tried on by the sole owner to realize a restructured shirt, the lingerie body-harness was never worn. It was collected in Belgium at the Brussels boutique where Martin Margiela initially sold his brand with his founding business-partner Jenny Meirens since 1988. Prior, Margiela worked for several years as a fashion-design assistant to Parisian Jean Paul Gaultier. Both designers have since received independent museum retrospectives internationally--from Paris' Grand Palais and Musee Palais Galliera (The City of Paris Fashion Museum) to NYC's The Brooklyn Museum and Antwerp's MoMu. While others continue to try, Martin Margiela (b.1957) is the only leading fashion designer to have made a full-time transition to the commercial contemporary-art world with such highly valued works. As a rare revealing piece of both fashion and art history, the increasing value of this Maison Martin Margiela 1997...

This untouched 1970s Gucci Book of Matches, boasting a lavish, dual-sided design, is a sublime reminder of the opulence of the Gucci name.  An elegant statement piece that exudes lu...

Italian illustrator Vittorio Accornero designed some iconic scarves for Gucci in the late 60s and 70s, and the label’s throwing back to those designs in its latest collection. The us...

Early 1970's Scarf Spighe Wheat printed on silk, gorgeous bouquet of poppy flowers and wheat coming out of one corner and around it. illustrator Vittorio Accornero designed some ic...

Gorgeous rosary made of carved bone and silver, in the 20th century. With a simple structure, central glory in the shape of a heart, it is the crucifix that attracts all the attenti...

HERMES vintage silver money clip featuring a stirrup. Embossed HERMES. French silver "crab" hallmark. Indicative measurements : max. length approx. 5.8 cm (2.28 inches) / max. widt...

Skin Tight: The Sensibility Of The Flesh Essays by Sylvia Chivaratanond and Lidewij Edelkoort. Foreword by Robert Fitzpatrick. Catalog from incredible museum show from MCA 2004 This edition has the Walter van Beirendonck cover Softcover with printed rubberband detail 64 full color images 9 x 11 inches English Fashion design, and what derives from fashion, has constantly stimulated our aesthetic sensibility and intellectual curiosity, redefining the ways we think about clothes, beauty, and gender. Skin Tight: The Sensibility of the Flesh will explore the radical innovations of designers who use clothing garments to probe the cultural construction of embodied identity, often used as a site of contention, and to challenge the perception and presentation of the self. Skin Tight will include garments, photographs, ephemera, video, and installations created by a group of international designers including Boudicca, Hussein Chalayan, Martin Margiela, Marjan Djodjov Pejoski, Walter van Beirendonck, A. F. Vandervorst, Viktor & Rolf, and Bernard Willhelm...

Beautiful Authentic Hermès Ashtray Print: Boucheron store window, 26 Place Vendôme Paris, FRANCE Made in France Made of Porcelain Colorways: White, Green, Red, Yellow The drawi...

Gold-tone evening "Boîte de Nuit" by Werber clutch bag featuring strass and beads decor, inside compartments, a front claps opening. Circa 1950s In good vintage condition. Made in F...