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Mariano Fortuny

Spanish, 1871-1949

Spanish fashion designer Mariano Fortuny was a true artist who worked with beautiful fabrics as his medium of choice. Although he showed talent in painting, sculpting, photography and architecture at an early age, fashion was where he really shined.

Fortuny was an innovator in the world of textile design. He drew on classical Greek tunics for his rich and interesting garments and worked with a revolutionary system for creating pleats (he was indeed proficient with product design, too, and developed lighting systems for theatre performances). He designed a range of clothing for his couture house, and today, vintage Fortuny evening gowns, gemstone-colored day dresses, coats and accessories like drawstring bags are known for their fine craftsmanship and signature elegance.

Fortuny was born Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo in 1871 in Granada, into a family of artists. His father died when Fortuny was only three years old, and his mother moved the family to Paris. As a child, Fortuny was fond of experimenting and figuring out how things worked. He even dyed pieces of fabric from his family's textile collection, which had been amassed from shops around Europe.

In 1889, the family moved again, this time to Venice. Here, Fortuny found inspiration in the past, which would influence his future designs. Not long after, the young Fortuny set off to travel the continent. In 1897, he visited Paris and fell in love with a dressmaker named Henriette Negrin. She became his muse, his wife and his creative partner — Negrin worked with Fortuny on clothing designs and fabrics — and the two settled in the French capital.

A lifelong inventor, Fortuny began patenting his creations in 1901. By 1934, he had registered more than 20 patents. At the same time, his fashion career was taking off. In 1907, he designed the Delphos gown with Negrin, which French novelist and essayist Marcel Proust described as "faithfully antique but markedly original." Fortuny had worked from his home until 1922 when increased demand required large-scale production. He opened a factory in Venice, where due to the scarcity of silk, he began experimenting with cotton. 

In 1927, New York interior designer Elsie McNeill traveled to Paris to meet Fortuny and became his exclusive American distributor. She returned to the United States and introduced Fortuny's designs to New World audiences. Shops opened in Paris, New York and London. Toward the end of the 1930s, Fortuny returned to painting and stepped away from the busy fashion industry.

After Fortuny passed away in 1949, McNeill took over the label and continued running it until 1988, when it was purchased by the Riad family, who remain at the helm of Fortuny today.

Find vintage Mariano Fortuny clothing and textiles on 1stDibs.

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Designer: Mariano Fortuny
Museum 1920s Mariano Fortuny Delphos Amber Gold Pleated Silk Murano Gown
By Mariano Fortuny
Located in Jersey City, NJ
This is an exquisite and rare Mariano Fortuny Delphos gown from the 1920s, a true example of early 20th-century couture and textile artistry. The Delphos gown is widely regarded as o...
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1920s Italian Mariano Fortuny

Mariano Fortuny Gauze Sleeveless Coat Vest
By Mariano Fortuny
Located in Sharon, CT
Offering a Mariano Fortuny (Labeled) Gauze Sleeveless Coat Vest. Label on the shoulder inside seam. Murano Bead on tie string.
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Early 20th Century Italian Mariano Fortuny

Early 1920s Fortuny Delphos Gown in Black Silk Glass Beads & Belt AS FOUND
By Mariano Fortuny, Fortuny
Located in Gresham, OR
Early 1920s Fortuny Delphos Gown in Black Silk, Murano Glass Beads & Gold Stenciled Belt. AS FOUND CONDITION with original labels. Absolutely authentic early Mariano Fortuny gown fo...
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Early 1900s Italian Mariano Fortuny

Fortuny Vintage "de Medici" Fabric Wall hanging
By Mariano Fortuny
Located in Sharon, CT
Vintage (1920's) Mariano Fortuny 'de Medici' pattern fabric. Two 48"x 88"panels sown together to construct a large draping fabric-88"x96". The early Fortuny Selvedge Signature: Maria...
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Early 20th Century Italian Mariano Fortuny

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Mariano Fortuny Venice Labeled Blue Stenciled Velvet Evening Coat
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Circa 1950 Europe or Middle East Elegant evening or interior coat in Kaftan cut made in a printed fabric by Mariano Fortuny Venice circa 1950. Straight cut, long and slit at the cu...
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1950s French Mariano Fortuny

A Mariano Fortuny labelled Length in Reversible Printed Cotton Circa 1980
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A Mariano Fortuny Gold Printed Velvet Evening Coat Italy Circa 1915/1925
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1910s Italian Mariano Fortuny

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Mariano Fortuny fashion for sale on 1stDibs.

Find an extraordinary range of authentic Mariano Fortuny fashion available on 1stDibs. Customers who are interested in this designer might also find the work of Balenciaga, Manolo Blahnik, and Roberto Capucci appealing. On 1stDibs, find haute couture, vintage and designer Mariano Fortuny fashion from top boutiques around the world. Mariano Fortuny fashion prices can differ depending upon time period and other attributes. On 1stDibs, the price for these items starts at $2,113 and tops out at $12,500, while the average work can sell for $7,306.
Questions About Mariano Fortuny
  • 1stDibs ExpertJanuary 10, 2025
    Mariano Fortuny was famous for his work as a designer. The Spanish fashion designer was a true artist who worked with beautiful fabrics as his medium of choice. Although he showed talent in painting, sculpture, photography and architecture at an early age, fashion was where he really shone. A lifelong inventor, Fortuny began patenting his creations in 1901. By 1934, he had registered more than 20 patents. At the same time, his fashion career was taking off. In 1907, he designed the Delphos gown with Negrin, which French novelist and essayist Marcel Proust described as "faithfully antique but markedly original." Fortuny had worked from his home until 1922, when increased demand required large-scale production. He opened a factory in Venice, where, due to the scarcity of silk, he began experimenting with cotton. Despite his success, by the end of the 1930s, Fortuny returned to painting and stepped away from the busy fashion industry. Explore a range of Mariano Fortuny pieces on 1stDibs.

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