By Buccellati
Located in Roma, RM
This exquisite vintage brooch by Buccellati dates to the 1920s–1930s, a period during which the Maison perfected its legendary tulle technique, elevating metalwork to an art form comparable to fine lace. Crafted in platinum, the brooch is conceived as a rectangular openwork panel, showcasing extraordinary delicacy, precision, and architectural balance.
The surface is executed in Buccellati’s signature tulle (lace) workmanship, composed of an intricate hand-pierced platinum mesh that creates a light, airy structure of remarkable refinement. Set throughout the design are numerous diamonds, arranged in floral and starburst motifs, each meticulously integrated into the lace-like framework. The diamonds appear to float within the structure, enhancing the sense of transparency and movement.
At the center, a larger diamond anchors the composition, while surrounding diamonds are arranged symmetrically to create rhythm and visual harmony. The outer border is further accented with a continuous line of diamonds, framing the brooch and adding definition without overwhelming the delicacy of the openwork.
The diamonds are old-cut diamonds, including old European–cut and early transitional cuts, whose soft brilliance and broad facets are entirely consistent with the period. Their gentle scintillation complements the refined platinum structure, rather than overpowering it, resulting in a jewel of exceptional elegance and restraint.
This brooch exemplifies Buccellati’s unparalleled mastery of metal and stone, reflecting a tradition rooted in Renaissance goldsmithing yet unmistakably modern for its time. Light in appearance yet technically complex, it was designed to be worn on a dress, bodice, or jacket, where it would appear almost weightless against the fabric.
A true collector’s piece, this Buccellati Tulle...
Category
1920s Vintage Italian Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Platinum