Jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger once said that he strived to “make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, at random, organic, in motion.” His jewels interpreted the vitality of the natural world with lively designs that included a moonstone-topped jellyfish brooch with sapphire tentacles exuding a watery shimmer and a ring encrusted with a burst of diamonds that “bloomed” like a flower bud.
A self-taught jeweler, Schlumberger’s mastery of color as well as his expertise as a draftsman brought his fantastic ideas to life. Born to a leading textile manufacturing family in Alsace, France, Schlumberger took to drawing as a child and showed promise as an artist, but his parents instead sent him to study banking in Berlin in the 1930s. Uninspired, he departed for Paris and began creating buttons for Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who also commissioned him for costume jewelry.
One of Schlumberger’s early pieces — a cigarette lighter in the form of a fish whose head opened to reveal the flame — demonstrated his skill for capturing the vivacity of nature in precious metal. The designer’s imaginative jewelry was in contrast to popular geometric lines of Art Deco, an independent vision he affirmed in the extravagant 1941 Trophée de Vaillance brooch created for fashion editor Diana Vreeland. An extravagant confection of diamonds, amethyst, rubies and gold, the brooch featured gemstones adorning an intricate intersection of tiny spears and a breastplate over a glittering shield.
After serving in the French army and the Free French forces during World War II — and surviving the Battle of Dunkirk — Schlumberger left war-torn Europe for New York and in 1946 established a jewelry salon with Nicolas Bongard. There, his vibrant work caught the eye of Tiffany & Co. After joining the American luxury jewelry house in 1956, he soon had his own studio on the mezzanine of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue store that he accessed by a private elevator. In his workshop, Schlumberger used a rainbow of gemstones, gold and diamonds to create some of the company’s most beguiling designs.
From striking earrings shaped like soaring wings to diamond birds perched on glittering gemstones, each of Schlumberger’s Tiffany designs dazzled. His supporters included Bunny Mellon, whose love for horticulture inspired commissions such as the Jasmine necklace with diamond blossoms flowering from a garland of colored sapphires, and Jacqueline Kennedy, who wore his Croisillon bracelets so often they became known as “Jackie bracelets.” Schlumberger retired from Tiffany in the late 1970s, but decades after his designs were introduced many of his popular pieces remain in production.
On 1stDibs, find an extraordinary range of vintage Jean Schlumberger jewelry designed for Tiffany & Co.
Tiffany & Co. Yellow Gold Jewelry Box
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
This is a beautiful Tiffany and co gold jewelry box made in 15 karat yellow gold. This jewelry box is gorgeous and unique. Measurements: length : 6.5 inch width : 3.5 inch depth :...
15k Gold
Gold Utility Box 22 Karat Gold 130 Gm, Gorgeous 1870's French gold ribbed box
Located in New York, NY
A RARE 22 K GOLD Gold Utility Box ,Gold 130 Gm, Gorgeous 1870's French gold ribbed box Size 3.2X1.5X1 inch The Box is of rectangular shape with fine basket-weave decoration. antique...
Yellow Gold, Gold, 22k Gold
$2,500
H 2.25 in W 3.25 in
CELESTE HOLM Tiffany & Co. Silver Envelope Compact Songwriter's Hall of Fame
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
We are thrilled to offer the Tiffany & Co. Silver Envelope Compact belonging to legendary Oscar Winning actress CELESTE HOLM which was given to her and inscribed by the Songwriter's Hall of Fame. The stylized envelope is of brushed silver, opening to reveal a powder mesh and puff signed Estée Lauder, with inner top flap engraved 'Songwriter's Hall of Fame March 8, 1977'. The compact is signed Tiffany & Co., Sterling 925, Italy. Celeste Holm (April 29, 1917 – July 15, 2012) was an American stage, film and television actress. Holm won an Academy Award for her performance in Elia Kazan's Gentleman's Agreement (1947), and was nominated for her roles in Come to the Stable (1949) and All About Eve (1950). She also is known for her performances in The Snake Pit (1948), A Letter to Three Wives (1949), and High Society (1956). She is also known for originating the role of Ado Annie in the Rodgers and Hammerstein musical Oklahoma! (1943) and the Soap Opera Loving. We have other pieces of Jewelry from the estate of Celeste Holm including a Riviere Necklace as well as her Tiffany Jewelry Box. We also have fabulous pieces of jewelry belonging to Lauren Bacall, Carol Channing, Ginger Rogers, opera singer Jessye Norman...
Silver, Sterling Silver
Carter Gough & Co. Sapphire Yellow Gold Ladies Compact
By Carter Gough & Co.
Located in Stamford, CT
Art Deco ladies compact circa 1910-1919 from Carter, Gough and Co. Notepad and pencil compartment behind the mirror. Extra fine engraving and detail work. 1 sapphire approx total weight. .50cts 5x3.5 Top to Bottom: 54.26 mm or 2.13 in. Width: 84.53 mm or 3.32 in Depth or Thickness: 8.26 107.3 grams Tested: 14k Stamped: 14k Hallmark: Carter and Gough
Sapphire, 14k Gold, Gold, Yellow Gold
$4,500
H 1.5 in W 3.75 in L 7 in
Celeste Holm Tiffany Jewelry Box Signed from Cast of Soap Opera Loving Sterling
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
This is a Signed Tiffany Sterling Silver Jewelry Trinket Box Presented to actress Celeste Holm by the Cast of the Soap Opera "Loving." The box combines t...
Sterling Silver
Mario Buccellati Vintage Diamond Gold Compact Box
By Mario Buccellati
Located in Miami, FL
This Mario Buccellati vintage diamond 18K yellow gold compact box from 1940's features a diamond accent closure in 18K white gold with rose-cut diam...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Gold
Mid-19th century Hanau Gold Box.
Located in Paris, FR
A cartouche-shaped gold box. The hinged lid, the base and the sides are chiseled with flowers and scrolls as well as rocaille patterns in slight relief. The lid has a chiseled bouque...
Gold
Judith Leiber Gold Tone Monkey Trinket Box
By Judith Leiber
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
This is the most adorable monkey themed trinket pill box by none other than Judith Leiber! Add a little fun to your daily life and keep this in your b...
$4,950
W 1.14 in D 0.41 in L 7.13 in
Vintage Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. 18K Gold & Hematite Letter Opener
By Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine vintage letter opener. Designed by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. With a lustrous hematite blade and an applied 18 karat yellow gold wirework handle. Marked to handle....
Hematite, 18k Gold
Schlumberger For Tiffany & Co. Gold Fish Lighter
By Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
Schlumberger For Tiffany & Co. Gold Fish Lighter An exquisite example of artistic innovation, this Schlumberger Gold Fish Lighter, crafted circa 1939, em...
Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold
Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. Rock Crystal Perfume Bottle c. 1980
By Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
This rare, hand-carved rock crystal perfume bottle by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. is a perfect gift and a glamorous addition to any...
Crystal, Rock Crystal
Tiffany & Co. Vintage Designer 18k Yellow Gold Knot Bracelet circa 1960
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
This rarely seen, Tiffany & Co. Vintage Designer 18k Yellow Gold Knot Bracelet, circa 1960, is as glamorous and sinuous as they come. Crafted in 18-karat yellow gold, the knotted...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co. Sterling Silver LOVE Ring, 1970s
By Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
This sterling silver “LOVE” ring was designed by Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co. in the 1970s, showcasing his signature creativity and bold design aesthetic. Made in a distinctive s...
Sterling Silver
Cazzaniga Gold and Green Guilloché Enamel Drop Earrings 1960s
By Cazzaniga
Located in New York, NY
A pair of long 18k gold and green guilloché enamel drop earrings, by the House of Cazzaniga, c. 1960s, Italy. Signed Cazzaniga Roma 750. Intricately mad...
18k Gold, Gold, Enamel
Claude Lalanne “Eglantine” Copper Hairpin
By Claude Lalanne
Located in New York, NY
Claude Lalanne’s jewelry holds an esteemed place among the world’s most sophisticated and stylish women. This hairpin, designed as a sprawling eglantine rose, is a testament to her c...
Copper
Jean Després Lapis Lazuli and Gold Ring circa 1940
By Jean Despres
Located in New York, NY
This exceptional Jean Despres ring in 18 karat planished gold features a high-rise sugarloaf cabochon lapis lazuli resting on decorative gold beadwork. It was made in c. 1940 and is ...
Lapis Lazuli, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Dazzling pieces by the late designer were worn by some of the biggest names in Hollywood.
Someone wanted to “modernize” the Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. masterworks, but Mahnaz Collection came to their rescue. Here, the dealer explains precisely why they’re such an extraordinary find.
