1stDibs ExpertAugust 20, 2024
To identify Art Nouveau jewelry, first consider its overall shape and themes. Flora, fauna and female figures were the three main themes in Art Nouveau jewelry. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also popular subjects. Next, examine the materials and techniques. Art Nouveau jewelers distinguished themselves from their predecessors through the use of their unorthodox materials and methods. Prior to the 20th century, artisans working with jewelry prioritized precious metals and diamonds. This was not true for Art Nouveau creators. Enameling is most often associated with Art Nouveau jewelry, specifically plique-à-jour. Known as backless enamel, plique-à-jour allows light to come through the rear of the enamel because there is no metal backing. It creates an effect of translucence and lightness. Art Nouveau jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone, and Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold. If you need more help identifying your jewelry, a certified appraiser or knowledgeable dealer can assist you. On 1stDibs, find a wide range of Art Nouveau jewelry.