Vintage dragon emerald, ruby and diamond 19.2kt yellow gold bangle bracelet, Portuguese, mid-20th century. Lisbon hallmarks and Portuguese maker’s mark.
A remarkable example of Portuguese mid-century goldsmithing, this substantial bangle takes the form of a coiled dragon or serpent, its body articulated through an exceptionally detailed scale-like surface and terminating in a richly jeweled head and pointed tail.
The creature’s head provides the dramatic focus. Pavé-set rose-cut diamonds cover much of its surface, punctuated by circular-cut emeralds arranged in sinuous foliate-like motifs and ruby-set eyes. Particularly compelling is the modeling of the open mouth: the goldsmith has given the dragon individually defined teeth and a projecting tongue, transforming what could have been a purely decorative jewel into a remarkably animated sculptural object.
The body coils twice around the wrist, its exterior worked throughout with realistic overlapping scales. In contrast, the interior is finished with a fine Florentine texture—a sophisticated detail largely concealed when worn and indicative of the attention given to the jewel beyond its immediately visible surfaces. The diamond-set tapering terminal echoes the jeweled head at the opposite end.
The ambiguity between dragon and snake is part of the jewel’s appeal. Serpentine jewelry...
Category
Mid-20th Century Portuguese Retro Emerald Bracelets
MaterialsDiamond, Emerald, Ruby, Yellow Gold
