Fusing eclectic influences such as Surrealism and African art, Art Smith was a leading mid-century modernist jeweler and one of the few African American designers to break into the field. His oversize geometric pieces with their innovative use of wire, silver forms, brass, aluminum, stone and glass elements were boldly sculptural yet lightweight, becoming popular in the 1940s and ’50s as expressive statements of adornment.
Born in Cuba to Jamaican parents, Smith moved as a child to Brooklyn, New York, in 1920. After showing an early aptitude for art, he earned a scholarship to study at the Cooper Union for the Advancement of Science and Art in Manhattan. He was especially inspired by the pioneering African American jeweler Winifred Mason, who hired Smith to work at her studio. There he witnessed how she engaged with West Indian folk art through bronze and copper.
After graduating, Smith opened his first shop in 1946 on Cornelia Street in Greenwich Village. Facing discrimination in the predominantly Italian area, he relocated to West Fourth Street where he would work until 1979. Smith developed relationships with stores like Bloomingdale’s as well as New York City’s vibrant Black cultural scene, from which his clients included Lena Horne and Duke Ellington. He also designed work for avant-garde Black dance companies such as those led by choreographers Talley Beatty and Pearl Primus and a brooch for Eleanor Roosevelt.
“The body is a component in design just as air and space are,” Smith once stated. Employing biomorphic shapes, he created works such as the Patina necklace that referenced Alexander Calder’s mobiles with its dangling silver cutouts as well as the Lava bracelet involving two layers of metal that undulate around the wrist.
Smith often used unconventional materials for fine jewelry that made it affordable to people beyond the elite, and he was a vocal advocate for Black and gay civil rights. In 2008, the Brooklyn Museum opened a retrospective of his work. His jewelry is included in the collections of major museums such as the National Museum of African American History and Culture, the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum and the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.
Find a collection of Art Smith jewelry on 1stDibs.
Art Smith 14K Yellow Gold Agate Modernist Sculptural Collar Drop Necklace
By Art Smith
Located in New York, NY
This vintage Art Smith necklace reflects the designer’s distinctive Modernist approach to jewelry, combining sculptural goldwork with organic, flowing forms. Crafted in 14K yellow go...
Agate, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
14K Yellow Gold Princess Lady Victorian Agate Cameo Carving Pendant Necklace
By Vaibhav Dhadda
Located in Jaipur, Rajasthan
14 karat yellow gold princess lady victorian agate cameo carving pendant necklace This stunning Victorian Agate Cameo carving pendant necklace is a piece to marvel. The gold frame w...
Agate, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold
Effy Lapis Lazuli and Turquoise 14k Yellow Gold Contemporary Drop Necklace
Located in Towson, MD
Contemporary necklace by Effy, crafted in 14-karat yellow gold and showcasing a striking combination of lapis lazuli and turquoise. Rich cobalt-blue lapis is paired with vibrant turq...
Lapis Lazuli, Turquoise, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
$444Sale Price|20% Off
14K Yellow Gold Trio Round Diamond Circle Eternity Drop Necklace
Located in Antwerp, BE
This necklace is a modern take on a classic silhouette. The "Y" shape is specifically designed to elongate the neckline, making it a favorite for pairing with V-neck outfits or eveni...
Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
14K Yellow Gold Floral Pendant Necklace with Green Agate and Diamonds
By SCALA GIOIELLI
Located in Marcianise, IT
This stunning necklace is a tribute to elegance and the natural beauty of finely selected gemstones, brought together in a truly unique piece. Crafted in 14-karat yellow gold, it fea...
Coral, Diamond, Turquoise, Agate, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
14K Gold Modernist Ed Wiener Sculptural Collar Necklace with Pearl
By Ed Wiener
Located in Venice, CA
This 14k gold signed Ed Wiener necklace has a sculptural form that graces the collarbone in an elegant wave. At the center of the necklace, a pearl is nestled into a small chevron th...
Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
$1,998
W 0.63 in L 20.01 in
14k Yellow Gold Honey Yellow Scapolite Diamond Drop Pendant Wheat Chain Necklace
Located in Montclair, NJ
--Stone(s):-- (1) Natural Genuine Scapolite - Cushion Cut - Nicely Faceted - Prong Set - Honey Yellow - 16x14.1mm (approx.) (3) Natural Genuine Diamonds - Round Brilliant Cut - Prong...
Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
$1,649 / item
H 1.38 in W 0.25 in L 18 in
0.60 Carat Natural Diamond Drop Necklace 14k Yellow Gold G SI
By Morris & David
Located in New York, NY
100% Natural Diamonds, Not Enhanced in any way Round Cut Diamond Necklace 0.60CT G-H SI 14K Yellow Gold, Pave style , 3.2 grams 1 3/8 inch in height, 1/4 inch in width 1 Dia...
Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
$14,370Sale Price|20% Off
L 15.75 in
Vintage Multi-Color Sapphire, Diamond Onyx & White Agate Necklace in 14K Gold
By SCALA GIOIELLI
Located in Marcianise, IT
An absolute masterpiece of vintage high-jewelry design, this superb statement choker necklace represents a perfect harmony of bold geometric form and joyful color. Artfully crafted i...
Agate, Diamond, Onyx, Sapphire, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
14K Yellow Gold Diamond Necklace
Located in Great Neck, NY
This 14K Yellow Gold Diamond Necklace is a timeless and elegant piece that adds brilliance to any look. Made from 5.3 grams of solid yellow gold, it is both durable and comfortable t...
Diamond, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold
14K Yellow Gold Coral Lavaliere Drop Necklace 16" #26861
Located in Washington Depot, CT
14K Yellow Gold Coral Lavaliere Drop Necklace- This stunning 14K yellow gold lavaliere necklace features delicate pink coral cabochons in a graceful, elongated design. Accented with...
Coral, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
South Sea Pearl and Diamond Drop Necklace in 14k Yellow Gold
Located in Honolulu, HI
Create a touch of magic wearing this lovely south sea pearl drop necklace with diamonds. The 37 diamonds weigh 0.15 carats and are G-I color and SI clarity. The pendant drops 1.75" a...
Diamond, Pearl, South Sea Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Amethyst Dangle Necklace 14k Yellow Gold Elegant Purple Drop (#3)
Located in Brooklyn, NY
Elegant and Classic Beaded Dangling Purple Amethyst Necklace 14k Yellow Gold – Cable chain with wire work (all parts are 14k gold) Chain Length 17’ Inch Stone type: Natural Amethyst...
Amethyst, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
14 Karat Yellow Gold Butterfly Agate Carving Diamond Pendant Necklace
By Vaibhav Dhadda
Located in Jaipur, Rajasthan
The One of a Kind 14 Karat Yellow Gold Butterfly Hand-Carved Agate with Diamonds Pendant Necklace is a truly exceptional piece of jewelry. The pendant features a stunning butterfly d...
Agate, Diamond, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold
14K Tricolor Gold Pebble Y Drop Necklace #19074
Located in Washington Depot, CT
14 Karat Tricolor Gold Pebble Y Drop Necklace- This stunning drop necklace features alternating polished and satin gold pebbles in 14K yellow, white and rose gold. Stamped: 14K RCI...
14k Gold, Rose Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Citrine Briolette Drop Diamond Necklace in 14k Yellow Gold
Located in Honolulu, HI
Create a touch of magic wearing this lovely citrine drop briolette necklace with diamonds. The 6 diamonds weigh 0.03 carats and are H color and SI2-I1 clarity. The pendant drops 1" and the citrine is 17 mm tall and 10 mm diameter at the bottom. Comes on an 16" chain with a lobster clasp. Stamped "14K". Total weight is 5.5 grams. This gorgeous necklace is pre-owned in excellent condition. Item Specifications: Style: Necklace Design: Citrine Briolette Drop Diamond Necklace...
Diamond, Citrine, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Art Smith Brass Copper American Modernist Abstract Pendant Brooch
By Art Smith
Located in Palm Springs, CA
A large handmade copper and brass pendant or brooch of abstract form created by Art Smith of New York. Pendant measures 4 1/4" in length by 2 3/4" wide and is in excellent vintage c...