Marilyn Lewis, the late American designer behind Cardinali and the classic Marlo Thomas sitcom continues to influence fashion today.
Despite Lewis’s relatively short career, lasting just nine years — the Ohio native gave up fashion in 1977 to focus on her marriage to actor Harry L. Lewis — she made quite an impact on a certain coterie of L.A. insiders. Improbably, Lewis (1929–2017) met many of them through the legendary Sunset Boulevard restaurant Hamburger Hamlet, which she cofounded with her husband in 1950.
“Betsy Bloomingdale and Dyan Cannon knew Marilyn because she owned the hot Hamburger Hamlet,” says vintage-clothing dealer Ricky Serbin. Her patrons “were attracted to Cardinali because they knew style and quality,” he adds, pointing out that many of them also bought couture. More customers followed, including First Lady Nancy Reagan and singers Eydie Gormé and Dionne Warwick. Actress Marlo Thomas personally signed up Lewis to design the costumes for her hit television sitcom, That Girl, which ran from 1966 to ’71.
Fashion’s current nostalgia for the 1970s is partly what turned San Francisco’s Serbin on to Lewis, a self-taught creative who, as a teenager made fashion sketches and aspired to be a model. When she moved to the West Coast from her hometown of Cleveland, Lewis began designing under the name Cardinali, the label she founded in the late 1960s. Her collection was sold through Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman and other retailers.
Serbin wasn’t well acquainted with Lewis — one of a handful of so-called California couturiers based in Los Angeles at the time — but he recognized the “now-ness” of her designs.
Although Cardinali was an American fashion house, Lewis had a European flair that her customers gravitated toward, and many of her fabrics were imported from the region.
According to Harold Koda, fashion scholar and former curator in charge at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the name Cardinali — Lewis’s homage to her Italian grandmother — suggests an “affinity for Italian designers. The French knew how to do sexy, but the Italians knew how to do sensual.”
Lewis — who couldn’t sew but created everything from black silk jersey blouses and wool winter hats to tweed suit skirts and colorful floral day dresses — understood, as did her fellow designer Yves Saint Laurent, that women of the time wanted to feel sexy without looking gauche.
“Good designers of that era caught on to providing comfort at the same time as showing curves and skin,” says Marci Rosenberg Samuels, a Houston-based collector who deals under the name Mrs. Couture and wears both Cardinali and YSL. “Cardinali did that, Saint Laurent did that, and so did Stephen Burrows and Giorgio di Sant' Angelo in their own ways.”
And the easy ’70s sensibility that Lewis and so many others championed? It is alive and well, as evidenced by the runway creations of designers Alessandro Michele and Pierpaolo Piccioli and the number of celebrities lining up to wear them, from musicians Florence Welch and Rihanna to actress Tilda Swinton.
Find vintage Cardinali evening dresses, suits and other clothing for sale on 1stDibs.
1960s Cardinali Couture Black Wool Unique Vintage A - Line 60s Skit Suit Jacket
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Chic vintage 60s Cardinali Couture black wool skirt suit ! Sleek tailored jacket features a unique asymmetrical closure with heavy duty hidden snaps....
Cardinali Fall 1969 Original Sample Chiffon Bra & Sheer Vintage 60s Tunic Dress
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Directly from Marilyn Lewis' estate! Lewis was the founder / designer for Cardinali. She was a bored housewife with two children in the 1960s, and was a fashion icon with an enormou...
1970s Cardinali Chocolate Brown + Kelly Green Size 6 Vintage 70s Silk Blouse Top
By Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Chic 1970s CARDINALI, by Marilyn Lewis chocolate brown and kelly green Size 6 silk blouse. This rare piece comes from Marilyn Lewis' actual estate! Smart tailored fit, with unique st...
Cardinali Original Sample Black Wool High Waisted 1960s Shorts and Belt Set
By Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
This pair of vintage 1960s CARDINALI black high waisted wool shorts and Avant Garde oversized belt come from the estate of MARILYN LEWIS! Lewis was the founder and designer of Cardin...
$1,312Sale Price|25% Off
1970s CARDINALI Green and pink circle sequin gown
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
FOR DESIGN INSPIRATION or STUDY only. The fabric is fatigued in left shoulder area with various small tears and small holes. see last picture. size: 6. Bust: 36"/ Waist: 32"/ Length: 56" Marylin Lewis started her clothing line late 60s, using the most luxurious and fines fabrics from italy.
1960s CARDINALI silk brocade jacquard dress
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Beautiful 1970 Cardinali silk brocade dress. 3/4 sleeve. Bust: 32"/ Waist: 30"/ Hip:34" / length: 52" Fit petite size 2/4 Dress lined in silk
Cardinali 1960s Original Sample Ivory Silk Blouse + Black Rhinestone Waistcoat
By Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Chic 60s vintage CARDINALI original sample ivory off-white silk top and sleeveless black vest! This ensemble comes directly from the late designer's ...
Rare 1960s Cardinali Hunter Green Wool Handkerchief Hem Vintage 60s Mini Skirt
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Rare late 1960s CARDINALI hunter / forest green lightweight wool handkerchief hem mini skirt! This beauty comes straight from Marilyn Lewis' estate (the designer and founder of Cardi...
Cardinali Original 1972 Spring Sample Silk Jersey Vintage 1970s Grecian Blouse
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Amazing vintage 70s CARDINALI COUTURE black silk jersey blouse! From the Spring 1972 Runway Collection. This versatile gem can be worm three differen...
Cardinali 1970s Original Sample Purple + Black Checkered Vintage 70s Skirt Suit
By Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Chic 1970s CARDINALI original sample two piece virgin wool skirt suit! Comes from Marilyn Lewis', Cardinali's founder and designer, personal wardrobe. Vibrant purple and black mini c...
Geoffrey Beene Japonesque Silk Ensemble
By Geoffrey Beene
Located in New York, NY
Geoffrey Beene was an American modernist who championed the concept of casual dressing in his evening wear looks. 3 tonal silk crepe de chine and chiffon Taroni textiles are used in this ensemble. These are easy separates which can used beautifully on their own. They include a sheer, shadow striped silk chiffon blouse with lace bib. The skirt is cut as a super full gathered dirndl in a burgundy Japonesque crinkle silk with an overlay of olive lace at knee and hem. A light reversible quilted silk jacket in same burgundy crepe de chine print...
Christian Dior by John Galliano Lace Camisole and Skirt Set
By John Galliano, Christian Dior
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous 2 piece set in white lace from Christian Dior. It consists of a scoop neck camisole tank style top and straight midi length skirt in alt...
2000s Thierry Mugler Couture Black Plunging Cut Out Short Romper
By Thierry Mugler
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Presenting a black Thierry Mugler short romper designed by Manfred Mugler. From the early 2000s, this short jumpsuit features short sleeves and a deep v-neckline. Silver-tone metal a...
Valentino New Off White Silk Jumpsuit with Open Back
By Valentino
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous off white silk jumpsuit by Valentino. It has a crew neckline, blouson bodice, dolman sleeves with zipper wrists, full legs and an open slit from the neck to the waist in ...
$745
Size: Equivalent size Male 48 French
A Djellaba blouse by Jean-Paul Gaultier in embroidered black linen Circa 2000
By Jean Paul Gaultier
Located in Toulon, FR
Circa 2000 France Beautiful orientalist blouse in black linen embroidered by Jean-Paul Gaultier Monsieur dating from the 2000s. Free inspiration or a nod from the designer to the c...
Chanel S/S 2011 Runway CC Logo Crystal Embellished Mini Shorts
By Chanel
Located in Naples, FL
Chanel S/S 2011 Runway CC Logo Crystal Embellished Mini Shorts Size FR 38 Look 26 from the Spring 2011 Runway. Heather grey and multicolor Chanel mini tweed shorts...
Moschino Couture Embroidered Words Top and Skirt
By Moschino, Moschino Couture
Located in Water Mill, NY
An extraordinary skirt and top set from Moschino Couture in grey with a touch of green jersey. They are simple pieces with intricate detailed at the front and back hemlines comprised...
Yves Saint Laurent by Tom Ford Iconic Lace up Pirate Blouse
By Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Iconic YSL lace-up front pirate blouse designed by Tom Ford for his 2002 collection. Anyone who considered themselves a high-style fashionista grabbed one!...
$925Sale Price|30% Off
Jean Paul Gaultier Vintage Holy Pictures Print Shortall
By Jean Paul Gaultier
Located in Nice, FR
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER vintage rare shortall inspired by boxing outfits featuring a lovely holy pictures print all-over. This shortall features : - Sand beige viscose with holy pictures...
1999 Jan Paul Gaultier Fragile top and skirt set
By Jean Paul Gaultier
Located in Austin, TX
1999 JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Fragile top and skirt set FABRIC: sheer stretch Nylon Condition: Very good, some wear TOP: open size as it is ties closed on the side - SKIRT: Waist: meant...
1980s Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche silk floral wrap dress
By Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche
Located in CULEMBORG, GE
This figure flattering, silk, wrap-dress by Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche from 1980* has a beautiful multicolor floral print. The pink, orange and purple flowers surrounded by green leafs are set on a black ground. At the neck, there is an interior tie to close up above the bust. The inside is lined around the shoulders and it comes with a matching sash stitched on the back. Taking a closer look at the Jabot-style collar and ruffled sleeves covered in pink and orange stripes it shows how beautifully constructed Yves Saint Laurent's ready-to-wear items where made. The vivid colors and combination of stripes and flowers give the all together look a funky Parisienne touch: feminine, but rather cool with a touch of romance. The indicated size FR 38 corresponds to a contemporary size S but because of the two strategic placed hooks at the waist it is possible to adjust this dress and therefore it would also fit a size M (FR40). Item measurements (lying flat): Size: FR 38 Shoulders: 50 cm (sleeves incl.) Sleeves: 64 cm (from shoulder) Bust: 45 cm Waist: 35 up to 40 cm Hips: up to 60 cm Length: 100 cm up to 110 cm (back) Model Nieve wears a size S with a 1.80 meter length. All items I sell are being professionally cleaned, pressed and are odor free. We offer free shipping on all (international) orders. * Additional information: When I was gathering information about this lovely silk Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche floral wrap dress...
$1,197Sale Price|40% Off
Late 1970s Thierry Mugler Denim Mesh Corset Bustier Top
By Thierry Mugler
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Presenting a stunning denim and mesh Thierry Mugler corset top. From the late 1970s, this top features a zipper at the front, mesh panels at the side...
1970s Cardinali Vintage Sheer Black Silk Palazzo Pants
By Cardinali, Marilyn Lewis
Located in Sparks, NV
Stunning vintage 1970s black silk palazzo pants by Cardinali. These pants are sheer and will need to be worn with something underneath. Unlined with...
1960s Cardinali Vintage Wool Tweed Princess Coat with Box Pleats + Brass Buttons
By Cardinali, Marilyn Lewis
Located in Sparks, NV
Absolutely stunning vintage Cardinali coat in woven brown tweed. Couture construction with hand stitched detailing throughout. Box pleats and complet...
1960s Cardinali Original Sample Orange Irish Linen Pleated Vintage A Line Skirt
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Chic 60s CARDINALI original sample orange and navy blue Irish linen belted nautical scooter skirt! This rare gem hails from the actual designer's estat...
1970s Cardinali Original Sample Purple Grape Silk Plunging 70s Halter Top
By Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Sexy 1970s CARDINALI original sample purple grape silk halter top! This gem comes directly from Marilyn Lewis' (the designer and creator of Cardinali) estate. Slips over the head and...
Sold
Size: Small - Medium
1970s Cardinali Original Sample Periwinkle Purple Vintage Silk 70s Halter Top
By Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Sexy 1970s CARDINALI periwinkle purple original sample silk plunging halter top! This beauty comes from the designer's (Marilyn Lewis) personal esta...
Sold
Size: Small - Medium
Cardinali 1970s Original Sample Brown + Gold Studded Vintage 70s Halter Crop Top
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Sexy early 1970s CARDINALI Couture original sample brown and gold studded knit halter crop top! This rare gem comes from the estate of Marilyn Lewis,...
1970s Cardinali Original Sample Plaid Silk Chiffon Open Front Jacket Blouse
By Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Incredibly chic vintage 70s CARDINALI original sample silk chiffon plaid jacket! Features vibrant colors of yellow, green, purple and red throughout. Semi sheer chiffon. Great belted...
Cardinali Abstract Vest and Black and White High Waisted Shorts w Provenance 60s
By Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
This chic vintage 60s CARDINALI red and gold silk abstract vest and high waisted black and white shorts come from the estate of Marilyn Lewis! Marilyn was the founder and designer of...
1970s CARDINALI green silk dress with velvet dots
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
This 1970’s green Cardinali maxi dress is made of silk chiffon with irregular green velvet dots. The mocha lining shows thru the silk chiffon to create a wonderful texture, and the ...
1970s CARDINALI Black and Orange Tie dye Silk Chiffon Maxi Dress
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
1970s CARDINALI black and orange tie dye bohemian silk chiffon gown highlighted with gold stitching and sequins with voluminous sleeve. mock neck. very lo...
Cardinali Black Wool and Silk Couture Crochet Dress with Fringe Trim, 1960s
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in Sparks, NV
Unmatched couture quality and construction! Cardinali lives up to its reputation as one of the highest quality labels to date. This dress is absolutely stunning in person. The croche...
1960s Cardinali "Greco-Roman" Wool Cocktail Mini Dress w/ Beadwork Detail
By Cardinali
Located in Gresham, OR
A wonderful "Greco-Roman" styled 1960s Cardinali cream wool cocktail dress: Sleeveless with an A-line skirt and beading at waist, collar and bust. Lined.