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Cardinali

American

Marilyn Lewis, the late American designer behind Cardinali and the classic Marlo Thomas sitcom continues to influence fashion today.

Despite Lewis’s relatively short career, lasting just nine years — the Ohio native gave up fashion in 1977 to focus on her marriage to actor Harry L. Lewis — she made quite an impact on a certain coterie of L.A. insiders. Improbably, Lewis (1929–2017) met many of them through the legendary Sunset Boulevard restaurant Hamburger Hamlet, which she cofounded with her husband in 1950.

“Betsy Bloomingdale and Dyan Cannon knew Marilyn because she owned the hot Hamburger Hamlet,” says vintage-clothing dealer Ricky Serbin. Her patrons “were attracted to Cardinali because they knew style and quality,” he adds, pointing out that many of them also bought couture. More customers followed, including First Lady Nancy Reagan and singers Eydie Gormé and Dionne Warwick. Actress Marlo Thomas personally signed up Lewis to design the costumes for her hit television sitcom, That Girl, which ran from 1966 to ’71.

Fashion’s current nostalgia for the 1970s is partly what turned San Francisco’s Serbin on to Lewis, a self-taught creative who, as a teenager made fashion sketches and aspired to be a model. When she moved to the West Coast from her hometown of Cleveland, Lewis began designing under the name Cardinali, the label she founded in the late 1960s. Her collection was sold through Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman and other retailers.

Serbin wasn’t well acquainted with Lewis — one of a handful of so-called California couturiers based in Los Angeles at the time — but he recognized the “now-ness” of her designs.

Although Cardinali was an American fashion house, Lewis had a European flair that her customers gravitated toward, and many of her fabrics were imported from the region.

According to Harold Koda, fashion scholar and former curator in charge at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the name Cardinali — Lewis’s homage to her Italian grandmother — suggests an “affinity for Italian designers. The French knew how to do sexy, but the Italians knew how to do sensual.”

Lewis — who couldn’t sew but created everything from black silk jersey blouses and wool winter hats to tweed suit skirts and colorful floral day dresses — understood, as did her fellow designer Yves Saint Laurent, that women of the time wanted to feel sexy without looking gauche

“Good designers of that era caught on to providing comfort at the same time as showing curves and skin,” says Marci Rosenberg Samuels, a Houston-based collector who deals under the name Mrs. Couture and wears both Cardinali and YSL. “Cardinali did that, Saint Laurent did that, and so did Stephen Burrows and Giorgio di Sant' Angelo in their own ways.”

And the easy ’70s sensibility that Lewis and so many others championed? It is alive and well, as evidenced by the runway creations of designers Alessandro Michele and Pierpaolo Piccioli and the number of celebrities lining up to wear them, from musicians Florence Welch and Rihanna to actress Tilda Swinton.

Find vintage Cardinali evening dresses, suits and other clothing for sale on 1stDibs.

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Designer: Cardinali
Cardinali Original Sample Black Wool High Waisted 1960s Shorts and Belt Set
By Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
This pair of vintage 1960s CARDINALI black high waisted wool shorts and Avant Garde oversized belt come from the estate of MARILYN LEWIS! Lewis was the founder and designer of Cardin...
Category

1960s American Cardinali

1960s Cardinali Couture Black Wool Unique Vintage A - Line 60s Skit Suit Jacket
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Chic vintage 60s Cardinali Couture black wool skirt suit ! Sleek tailored jacket features a unique asymmetrical closure with heavy duty hidden snaps....
Category

1960s American Cardinali

Cardinali Original 1972 Spring Sample Silk Jersey Vintage 1970s Grecian Blouse
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Amazing vintage 70s CARDINALI COUTURE black silk jersey blouse! From the Spring 1972 Runway Collection. This versatile gem can be worm three differen...
Category

1970s Italian Cardinali

Cardinali 1960s Original Sample Ivory Silk Blouse + Black Rhinestone Waistcoat
By Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Chic 60s vintage CARDINALI original sample ivory off-white silk top and sleeveless black vest! This ensemble comes directly from the late designer's ...
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1960s Italian Cardinali

1970s Cardinali Chocolate Brown + Kelly Green Size 6 Vintage 70s Silk Blouse Top
By Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Chic 1970s CARDINALI, by Marilyn Lewis chocolate brown and kelly green Size 6 silk blouse. This rare piece comes from Marilyn Lewis' actual estate! Smart tailored fit, with unique st...
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1970s Italian Cardinali

Rare 1960s Cardinali Hunter Green Wool Handkerchief Hem Vintage 60s Mini Skirt
By Cardinali, Marilyn Lewis
Located in San Diego, CA
Rare late 1960s CARDINALI hunter / forest green lightweight wool handkerchief hem mini skirt! This beauty comes straight from Marilyn Lewis' estate (the designer and founder of Cardi...
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1960s Italian Cardinali

1960s Cardinali Original Sample Burgundy Maroon Avant Garde Velvet 60s Cage Hat
By Cardinali, Marilyn Lewis
Located in San Diego, CA
Incredible original sample CARDINALI late 1960s vintage burgundy velvet cage hat! This rare beauty comes from the original designer's estate (Marilyn Lewis). Soft maroon velvet with ...
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1960s Italian Cardinali

1960s CARDINALI silk brocade jacquard dress
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Beautiful 1970 Cardinali silk brocade dress. 3/4 sleeve. Bust: 32"/ Waist: 30"/ Hip:34" / length: 52" Fit petite size 2/4 Dress lined in silk
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1960s American Cardinali

1970s CARDINALI Green and pink circle sequin gown
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
FOR DESIGN INSPIRATION or STUDY only. The fabric is fatigued in left shoulder area with various small tears and small holes. see last picture. size: 6. Bust: 36"/ Waist: 32"/ Length: 56" Marylin Lewis started her clothing line late 60s, using the most luxurious and fines fabrics from italy.
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1960s American Cardinali

Cardinali Fall 1969 Original Sample Chiffon Bra & Sheer Vintage 60s Tunic Dress
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Directly from Marilyn Lewis' estate! Lewis was the founder / designer for Cardinali. She was a bored housewife with two children in the 1960s, and was a fashion icon with an enormou...
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1970s Italian Cardinali

Cardinali 1970s Original Sample Purple + Black Checkered Vintage 70s Skirt Suit
By Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Chic 1970s CARDINALI original sample two piece virgin wool skirt suit! Comes from Marilyn Lewis', Cardinali's founder and designer, personal wardrobe. Vibrant purple and black mini c...
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1970s Italian Cardinali

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Early 2000s French Cardinali

S/S 1996 Gucci by Tom Ford Runway Sheer Black Lace Button Up Top
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A Djellaba blouse by Jean-Paul Gaultier in embroidered black linen Circa 2000
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Circa 2000 France Beautiful orientalist blouse in black linen embroidered by Jean-Paul Gaultier Monsieur dating from the 2000s. Free inspiration or a nod from the designer to the c...
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UNWORN Chanel Metallic Fur Giraffe Animal Print Safari Hot Pants Shorts 40
By Chanel
Located in Switzerland, CH
Rare piece! Chanel leather hot pants in safari style Metallic leather with fur trimming Gorgeous animal print Golden button with CC logo Two...
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21st Century and Contemporary French Cardinali

GIANNI VERSACE long black leather skirt
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GIANNI VERSACE F/W 1992 "Bondage" Collection Long skirt in black lambskin. Gold thread stitching, side slits up to the knee. Made in Italy The composition and size label are not pres...
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1990s Italian Cardinali

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20% Off
L 43.71 in
S/S 1996 Thierry Mugler Sculptural Runway Museum Skirt Suit Ensemble
By Thierry Mugler
Located in Concord, NC
Own a piece of fashion history with this extraordinary documented Thierry Mugler Spring Summer 1996 skirt suit. Black and white jacket with a large folding ...
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1990s French Cardinali

VALENTINO Boutique A/W 2000 Black Metallic Sequin Knit Scoop Neck Top
By Valentino, Valentino Garavani
Located in Thiensville, WI
Valentino Boutique Autumn/Winter 2000 black metallic sequin knit scoop neck top designed by Valentino Garavani. Black semi-sheer knit with all over sequin clusters. 3/4 length sleeve...
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Rare Gucci by Tom Ford Green Leather and Fur Skirt, FW 1999
By Tom Ford for Gucci, Gucci
Located in Marlborough, GB
Gucci by Tom Ford green leather and fur skirt, Fall Winter 1999 A very rare skirt featuring dyed green fur in a central panel down the front Back zip Good vintage condition with one ...
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1990s Cardinali

Perry Ellis Skirt, Circa 1980s
By Perry Ellis
Located in Brooklyn, NY
vintage brown wool skirt. high waist. inverted pleats at front and back of skirt. hip pockets. belt loops. side button closure + an interior hook & eye. falls mid calf/ midi length. ...
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1980s American Cardinali

UNWORN Blumarine Africa Print Cropped Capri Pants Trousers 40
By Blumarine
Located in Switzerland, CH
BLUMARINE cropped capri pants Closes on the side with hidden zipper Decorative drawstring detail Fantastic print with Africa motives Fabric 1: 100% Cotton Fabric 2: 100% Silk Fabric...
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21st Century and Contemporary Italian Cardinali

F/W 2000 Gucci by Tom Ford Sheer Gold Lurex V-Neck Long-Sleeve Metallic Top Y2K
By Gucci, Tom Ford for Gucci
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Presenting a shimmering disco-chic sheer gold blouse designed by Tom Ford for Gucci's Fall/Winter 2000. The dress version of this fabulous top debuted as l...
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Early 2000s Italian Cardinali

Dior FW 1998 Skirt Suit
By Christian Dior
Located in Avon, CT
- Guaranteed 100% Authentic. - Excellent preowned condition. - Description: grey donegal tweed skirt suit edged in white calais lace. - Size: Jacket marked 6 US, Fits 2-4. Chest:...
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1990s French Cardinali

Previously Available Items
1970s Cardinali Vintage Sheer Black Silk Palazzo Pants
By Cardinali, Marilyn Lewis
Located in Sparks, NV
Stunning vintage 1970s black silk palazzo pants by Cardinali. These pants are sheer and will need to be worn with something underneath. Unlined with...
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1970s American Cardinali

1960s Cardinali Vintage Wool Tweed Princess Coat with Box Pleats + Brass Buttons
By Cardinali, Marilyn Lewis
Located in Sparks, NV
Absolutely stunning vintage Cardinali coat in woven brown tweed. Couture construction with hand stitched detailing throughout. Box pleats and complet...
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1960s American Cardinali

1960s Cardinali Original Sample Orange Irish Linen Pleated Vintage A Line Skirt
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Chic 60s CARDINALI original sample orange and navy blue Irish linen belted nautical scooter skirt! This rare gem hails from the actual designer's estat...
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1960s Italian Cardinali

1970s Cardinali Original Sample Purple Grape Silk Plunging 70s Halter Top
By Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Sexy 1970s CARDINALI original sample purple grape silk halter top! This gem comes directly from Marilyn Lewis' (the designer and creator of Cardinali) estate. Slips over the head and...
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1970s Italian Cardinali

1970s Cardinali Original Sample Periwinkle Purple Vintage Silk 70s Halter Top
By Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Sexy 1970s CARDINALI periwinkle purple original sample silk plunging halter top! This beauty comes from the designer's (Marilyn Lewis) personal esta...
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1970s Italian Cardinali

Cardinali 1970s Original Sample Brown + Gold Studded Vintage 70s Halter Crop Top
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Sexy early 1970s CARDINALI Couture original sample brown and gold studded knit halter crop top! This rare gem comes from the estate of Marilyn Lewis,...
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1970s Italian Cardinali

1970s Cardinali Original Sample Plaid Silk Chiffon Open Front Jacket Blouse
By Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
Incredibly chic vintage 70s CARDINALI original sample silk chiffon plaid jacket! Features vibrant colors of yellow, green, purple and red throughout. Semi sheer chiffon. Great belted...
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1970s Italian Cardinali

Cardinali Abstract Vest and Black and White High Waisted Shorts w Provenance 60s
By Cardinali
Located in San Diego, CA
This chic vintage 60s CARDINALI red and gold silk abstract vest and high waisted black and white shorts come from the estate of Marilyn Lewis! Marilyn was the founder and designer of...
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1960s American Cardinali

Cardinali Black Wool and Silk Couture Crochet Dress with Fringe Trim, 1960s
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in Sparks, NV
Unmatched couture quality and construction! Cardinali lives up to its reputation as one of the highest quality labels to date. This dress is absolutely stunning in person. The croche...
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1960s American Cardinali

1960s Cardinali "Greco-Roman" Wool Cocktail Mini Dress w/ Beadwork Detail
By Cardinali
Located in Gresham, OR
A wonderful "Greco-Roman" styled 1960s Cardinali cream wool cocktail dress: Sleeveless with an A-line skirt and beading at waist, collar and bust. Lined.
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1960s Italian Cardinali

Cardinali Vintage 1960s Couture Mod Wool Shift Dress with Silk Lining
By Marilyn Lewis, Cardinali
Located in Sparks, NV
From the closet full of deadstock Cardinali comes this exceptional textured wool shift dress with silk lining. The dress does not have the original tags attached but looks completely unworn. Designed by Marilyn Lewis, the Cardinali line was only around for 9 years and has become coveted by vintage dealers and collectors worldwide. Her line was worn by Marlo Thomas in the hit TV show "That Girl" and was seen on many high profile and celebrity socialites. Lewis used only imported fabrics from Italy and her pieces were some of the most expensive apparel being produced at the time. Her first collection sold at Saks 5th Ave from between $300- $2400 which translates to about $2000- $16,000 today. It is easy to see why in person as the construction is absolutely phenomenal. There is no stitch out...
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1960s American Cardinali

Cardinali Black 2 pc. Pant and Tunic Top Set w/ Gold Buttons
By Cardinali
Located in Los Angeles, CA
This is a fab 2 piece pant suit ensemble from Cardinali, designer Marilyn Lewis. It is made of a heavy black wool knit. The long sleeve tunic top is very structured with a high neck ...
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1960s Italian Cardinali

Cardinali fashion for sale on 1stDibs.

Find an extraordinary range of authentic Cardinali fashion available on 1stDibs. If you’re browsing our collection of unique vintage and designer fashion to elevate your daily look or to introduce new colors to the dazzling formal wear in your wardrobe, this designer’s body of work includes elements of purple, red and other tones. Customers who are interested in this designer might also find the work of Istante by Versace, Marilyn Lewis, and CALLAGHAN appealing. On 1stDibs, find haute couture, vintage and designer Cardinali fashion from top boutiques around the world. Cardinali fashion prices can differ depending upon time period and other attributes. On 1stDibs, the price for these items starts at $775 and tops out at $2,350, while the average work can sell for $1,095.

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