Fashion legend Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s sole fine jewelry collection included some of the most exciting and original works ever made — she loved costume jewelry but simply couldn’t resist designing with diamonds. Today, whether or not a given design happens to bear the house’s iconic logo, vintage Chanel bracelets, pendant necklaces, earrings and other accessories lend a bold touch to any ensemble.
Chanel established her business as a Paris hat shop in 1910 and started selling clothing in 1913. She introduced her costume jewelry in the 1920s, when the economy was roaring and fine jewelry was the main mode of adornment among her clients. Fearless about giving offense, Chanel proclaimed, “I love fakes because I find such jewelry provocative, and I find it disgraceful to walk around with millions of dollars around your neck, just because you are rich.”
Then, in 1932, in the midst of the Great Depression, Chanel dramatically switched gears and designed her first and only diamond jewelry collection, Bijoux de Diamants.
The lyrical and bold Chanel designs centered on five motifs: fringe, ribbons, feathers, the sun and stars. A dramatic diamond fringe headpiece was worn over the brow, while a fringe bracelet draped down the palm. A ribbon was tied in a bow at the front of a necklace and the top of a headband. These textile motifs linked the collection to the couturier’s clothes.
Even as rave reviews flowed in from the members of the press who attended the collection’s single showing, the International Diamond Corporation caved to the demands of the men in the French jewelry industry who forcefully expressed their firm belief that a fashion designer, and a female one at that, didn’t have the talent to make important jewels. At the same time, they were worried that Chanel’s diamond necklaces, brooches, bracelets and other creations would compete with their collections and cut into their profits. The pieces were broken up after the exhibition, and a planned London showing was canceled.
Afterward, Chanel never designed another diamond jewelry collection. Instead, she focused on costume and the demi-fine pieces she made in collaboration with Fulco di Verdura, when he worked at Chanel during the 1930s.
In 1993, the House of Chanel revived its fine jewelry business. Over the years, it has made near-exact renditions of the 1932 designs and imagined new silhouettes incorporating the original five motifs, as well as other themes beloved by Chanel, such as the lion, representing her Leo zodiac sign, and camellia flowers.
Find a range of vintage Chanel earrings, watches and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
limited edition snow globe from the prestigious French fashion house CHANEL.
By Chanel
Located in VALLADOLID, ES
Exquisite limited edition snow globe from the prestigious French fashion house CHANEL. In perfect condition, with its original box. Set on a midnight blue base, the snow globe displa...
$1,250
H 1.19 in W 0.99 in L 2.52 in
Old Signed Carved Nephrite Jade German / Russian Hippopotamus Figure
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A very fine carved Nephrite Jade hippopotamus figurine. Likely the work of the German lapidary carvers in Idar Oberstein (or possibly Russian in origin). The feet of the hippo have numbered inscription or signature. Simply a great carving! Date: 20th Century Overall Condition: It is in overall good, as-pictured, used estate condition. There are a few round concussion marks here and there, loss to one ear, a small fracture in one nostril (likely from the carving), some edge wear, and some very fine & light surface scratches and other signs of expected light wear consistent with age Maker: Possibly from Idar Oberstein (or one of the Russian houses...
Jade
$650 / set
Sterling Silver Jungle Animals
Located in Darnestown, MD
Five sterling silver jungle animals to include: an elephant; a lion; a rhinoceros; a jungle cat and a wading bird with a fish in its mouth. The pieces ...
Sterling Silver
18K Rose Gold Turtle Mixed Colored Diamond and Pink Sapphire Brooch
By Althoff Jewelry
Located in Hong Kong, HK
18K Rose Gold Turtle Mixed Diamond and Pink Sapphire Brooch 10 Mixed Colored Diamonds - 0.08 CT 2 Green Garnets - 0.01 CT 23 Pink Sapphires - 0.20 CT 21 Rubies - 0.16 CT 18K Rose Go...
Diamond, Garnet, Ruby, Pink Sapphire, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
Vintage 18K Yellow Gold Poodle Brooch with Ruby Eyes, Circa 1960, UK
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
A fine vintage 18 karat yellow gold brooch in the form of a poodle; part of our vintage jewelry and estate jewelry collections. This fine 18k yellow gold brooch has been realistically modelled in the form of a poodle. The poodle is further embellished with inset ruby eyes and a broad collar with link chain. The poodle is secured to the reverse with a bar pin and safety catch. The hallmarks struck to the underside of the poodle's body include the 18k fineness mark (18) (.750) and the London Import Hallmarks. Images do not always reflect the true color and brilliance of gemstones and diamonds. The video however provides a truer representation of the actual color and showcases each stone. Condition This vintage poodle brooch...
Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
$1,750
H 3.19 in Dm 2.72 in
Antique Chinese Porcelain Blue & White Crackle Glaze 100 Boys Snuff Bottle Vase
Located in Richmond, CA
Antique Chinese porcelain snuff bottle in ovoid form, painted in underglaze blue and white in "100 boys" theme, depicting figures in various forms of martial ...
Line Vautrin Gilt Bronze "Station de Métro", c. 1945
By Line Vautrin
Located in New York, NY
This marvelous and whimsical gilded bronze “Stations du Métro” belt was designed and made by Line Vautrin in France in 1945. True to Vautrin’s signature style, the belt is imbued wit...
Bronze
Antique early XIXc Russian Orthodox Vladimir Mother of God Travelling Icon
Located in MELBOURNE, AU
This Magnificent Antique early XIXc Russian Orthodox Travelling Icon depicts Vladimir Mother of God (Vladimirskaya Theotokos) This icon represents one of the most revered images ...
Brass, Enamel
Green Parrot Bird Bergman Austrian Vienna Bronze Lovebird Cold Painted Bronze
By Franz Bergmann 1
Located in New York, NY
THIS IS A SUPERB ANTIQUE BERGMAN AUSTRIAN VIENNA BRONZE OF A GREEN PARROT OR LOVEBIRD. This wonderful antique Austrian Vienna Bronze (Bronze de Vienne, Wiener Bronze, Cold Painted Br...
Bronze
20 Lire Umberto I – 1882 Kingdom of Italy Gold Coin
Located in Milano, Lombardia
An elegant and historically significant Italian gold coin issued under King Umberto I, dated 1882. Struck in gold (900/1000), this 20 Lire coin fea...
Gold
$1,195
H 2.5 in W 1.5 in
Cat Kitten On Bell Telephone Austrian Vienna Bronze circa 1900 Miniature Bronze
Located in New York, NY
THIS IS A SUPERB CHARMING ANTIQUE AUSTRIAN VIENNA BRONZE OF A CAT OR KITTEN LISTENING ON TWO BELL TELEPHONES. This wonderful antique Austrian Vienna Bronze (Bronze de Vienne...
Bronze
Wendy Brandes 1.48 TCW Black Diamond Taurus Bull Ring With Surprise Inside
By Wendy Brandes
Located in New York, NY
The Bull and Bullfighter Ring is the fourth in Wendy Brandes's seven-ring Maneater series, a collection that upends assumptions about power. Each Maneater ring...
Diamond, White Diamond, Black Diamond, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, White Gold, ...
$1,500
H 3.5 in W 3.5 in L 13 in
Pug French Bulldog Puppy Dog Cart Candy Container Germany Antique 1910 Christmas
Located in New York, NY
THIS IS A VERY RARE EARLY GERMAN CANDY CONTAINER OF A PUG OR FRENCH BULLDOG PUPPY DOG PULLING A WONDERFUL WOODEN CART. WITH GLASS EYES - SO ADOR...