Fashion legend Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s sole fine jewelry collection included some of the most exciting and original works ever made — she loved costume jewelry but simply couldn’t resist designing with diamonds. Today, whether or not a given design happens to bear the house’s iconic logo, vintage Chanel bracelets, pendant necklaces, earrings and other accessories lend a bold touch to any ensemble.
Chanel established her business as a Paris hat shop in 1910 and started selling clothing in 1913. She introduced her costume jewelry in the 1920s, when the economy was roaring and fine jewelry was the main mode of adornment among her clients. Fearless about giving offense, Chanel proclaimed, “I love fakes because I find such jewelry provocative, and I find it disgraceful to walk around with millions of dollars around your neck, just because you are rich.”
Then, in 1932, in the midst of the Great Depression, Chanel dramatically switched gears and designed her first and only diamond jewelry collection, Bijoux de Diamants.
The lyrical and bold Chanel designs centered on five motifs: fringe, ribbons, feathers, the sun and stars. A dramatic diamond fringe headpiece was worn over the brow, while a fringe bracelet draped down the palm. A ribbon was tied in a bow at the front of a necklace and the top of a headband. These textile motifs linked the collection to the couturier’s clothes.
Even as rave reviews flowed in from the members of the press who attended the collection’s single showing, the International Diamond Corporation caved to the demands of the men in the French jewelry industry who forcefully expressed their firm belief that a fashion designer, and a female one at that, didn’t have the talent to make important jewels. At the same time, they were worried that Chanel’s diamond necklaces, brooches, bracelets and other creations would compete with their collections and cut into their profits. The pieces were broken up after the exhibition, and a planned London showing was canceled.
Afterward, Chanel never designed another diamond jewelry collection. Instead, she focused on costume and the demi-fine pieces she made in collaboration with Fulco di Verdura, when he worked at Chanel during the 1930s.
In 1993, the House of Chanel revived its fine jewelry business. Over the years, it has made near-exact renditions of the 1932 designs and imagined new silhouettes incorporating the original five motifs, as well as other themes beloved by Chanel, such as the lion, representing her Leo zodiac sign, and camellia flowers.
Find a range of vintage Chanel earrings, watches and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
CHANEL Vintage 1980 Double Quilted CC Chain Belt
By Chanel
Located in Honolulu, HI
Brooch Specifications: Designer: CHANEL Fits Waist Size Up To: 32" Chanel Logo Measurements: ~2.25" x 1.9" Stamped: "CHANEL "Made in France" Condition: Preowned Gold Plated
CHANEL Chain and Leather Loop CC Medallion Belt
By Chanel
Located in Honolulu, HI
Classic and chic, this vintage Chanel chain leather belt is crafted in gold-plated metal, accented with a 'CC' logo-engraved medallion pendant. Closure can be hooked on multiple link...
Chanel Wild Stitch Black Leather Tote Bag
By Chanel
Located in New York, NY
A timeless Chanel Wild Stitch tote crafted in supple black calfskin leather and accented with the collection’s signature oversized diamond quilting in contrasting ivory stitching. Th...
24k Gold, Gold Plate, Base Metal
Chanel Dark-Golden Bag Jewelry/Keyring with Enamel, 2010
By Chanel
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Chanel - (Made in France) Dark-golden metal articulated bag jewelry / keyring with enamel. 2010 Fall-Winter Collection under the direction of Karl Lagerfeld. Additional information:...
Chanel Brand New Black Gold Crinkled Leather Coin Purse Crossbody Bag
By Chanel
Located in Pasadena, CA
Chanel Brand New Black Crinkled Leather Coin Purse Crossbody Bag *Marked G2XXXXXX *Made in Italy *Comes with the original box, pouch, ribbon, flower and booklet *Brand New *A copy o...
Chanel 24K plated Key Ring featuring 3 Chanel dangling charms
By Chanel
Located in Sewickley, PA
Beautiful Chanel Key ring or bag charm featuring three dangly CC charms from 1996. This is a great piece to dangle from your keys, from your bag, or f...
Gold Plate
Chanel Hologram Fob Key Chain Spring 1997
By Chanel
Located in New York, NY
Authentic rare Chanel Hologram fob key chain or bag charm. A signature gilt curb chain suspends a round fob embedded with gilt motifs which display ...
Gold Plate, Gilt Metal
Chanel Brand New Gold Shimmer Crystal CC Handle Crossbody 2 Way Bag
By Chanel
Located in Pasadena, CA
Chanel Brand New Gold Shimmer Crystal CC Handle Crossbody 2 Way Bag * Marked JHKxxxxx * Made in Italy * Comes with the original box, dustbag, booklet, camellia and ribbon. A copy of...
CHANEL CC Chain Loop Medallion Belt 1985
By Chanel
Located in Honolulu, HI
Classic and chic, this vintage Chanel chain belt is crafted in gold-plated metal, accented with a 'CC' logo-engraved medallion pendant. Closure can be hooked on multiple links for a ...
Chanel Black Velvet Bow Hair Clip
By Chanel
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Adorn your crown with a Chanel staple.The Chanel Bow Hair Clip is a prominent fixture within the House, and has been reworked and commissioned in so many different ways.This version ...
Chanel Brand New Vintage Brown Caviar Faux Tortoiseshell Backpack
By Chanel
Located in Pasadena, CA
Chanel Brand New Vintage Brown Caviar Faux Tortoiseshell Backpack * Marked Chanel * Made in Italy * 560XXXX * Comes with the original dustbag * Brand new for this vintage item -It ...
Chanel Vintage White Logo Black Canvas Tote Bag
By Chanel
Located in Pasadena, CA
Chanel Vintage White Logo Black Canvas Tote Bag *4844540 ( The serial number is hard to read.) *Made in France -It is approximately 11″ x 11″ x 3.7″. -Miley Cyrus was carrying the ...
Chanel Classic Black Leather Coat
By Chanel
Located in Pasadena, CA
Chanel Classic Black Leather Coat *Marked 02 A *Made in France *Size Fr 36 / US size 2 -100% Calfskin -Approximate measurement - Shoulder width ...
Chanel Sunglasses CC Logos Eye Wear Black Chanel Sunglasses
By Chanel
Located in Aventura, FL
Fashion statements, Chanel’s eyewear float between contemporary innovation and utter classic sophistication, in a manner only the French maison can must...
Stalagtite Amethyst with Nephrite Frog, Mineral Specimen Crystal
Located in Kirschweiler, DE
This Amethyst Stalagtite has all around small purple crystals. On top is a Frog carved out of Nephrite. measures: 47x56x48 mm weight: 11,9 gr.
Crystal, Amethyst
$345Sale Price|25% Off
W 1.25 in L 5.3 in
Vintage Bulgari White Leather Keychain with Metal Accents, Like New
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
A Stylish Fusion of Functionality and Refined Italian Craftsmanship Add a touch of luxury to your everyday essentials with this Vintage Bulgari Keychain, meticulously fashioned in wh...
Base Metal
"Y" NYC Subway Token 925 Silver Keychain
By Michael Bondanza
Located in New York, NY
Elevate your everyday essentials with the exquisite craftsmanship of Michael Bondanza Jewelry. Introducing our 925 sterling silver Keychain featuring the iconic NYC Large 'Y' Subway ...
Silver
Hermes Diamond Constance "H" Belt buckle
By Hermès
Located in New York, NY
HERMES diamond encrusted CONSTANCE H belt buckle, with approximately 3.79 carats of diamonds set in 18K white gold . Inscribed Hermes Made in France AU750 numbered xxxxxx 77D, 3.79...
Diamond, 18k Gold
Tiffany & Co. Thumbprint Money Clip in Sterling Silver
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Palm Desert, CA
Elsa Peretti’s creations reveal her unique ability to blend form, function, and emotion. This sterling silver money clip exemplifies her talent for transforming everyday items into s...
Sterling Silver
Midnight Blue Sterling Silver Vessel with Peridot by Designer Astral Vessel's
By Astral Vessels
Located in Boulder, CO
This perfectly tailored deep blue Vessel features a cap that we carved with a harlequin pattern using our antique Rose Engine. The top of the cap is inse...
Peridot, Silver, Titanium
Victorian Gold Mesh Purse
Located in New York, NY
This is an amazing 14k yellow gold mesh purse from the Victorian era. The purse measures 95mm by 66mm and weighs 42.5 grams. The purse is stamped 14K.
14k Gold
$17,313
W 0.52 in D 0.34 in L 2.73 in
Van Cleef & Arpels 2 in 1 Lipstick Holder and Pocket Watch, Malachite and Onyx
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Berlin, DE
Fabulous and extreme rare Van Cleef & Arpels 2 in 1 accessory. Lipstick Holder and Ladies Pocket Watch. Malachite and Onyx Case. Movement: mechanical manual winding. A unique coll...
Malachite, Onyx
Vintage Gold Plated CARTIER Santos Lighter in Box 1980s
By Cartier
Located in DELFT, NL
As a hallmark of elegance and timeless design, Cartier stands at the forefront of luxury craftsmanship, with a legacy that extends beyond jewellery to iconic lighter designs. The dis...
Gold Plate, Silver Plate
Art Deco 18k Gold Diamond Ruby Purse
Located in New York, NY
Art Deco 18k Gold Diamond Ruby Purse Details: Material: 18K yellow gold Stones: approx. 0.27 carats of diamonds, and accented with French cut rubies. Measurements: 7.5cm x 7cm Weigh...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Antique Whiting & Davis Mesh Purse Bag
By Whiting & Davis
Located in Mount Kisco, NY
New, in its original box with tags, Antique Whiting & Davis Mesh Purse / Bag. Includes original care instructions from the maker. Popular in the 1920s & ear...
Other
$29,617Sale Price|20% Off
W 34 in
HERMES H 18CT GOLD & DIAMOND EXTRA LARGE BELT BUCKLE ON REVERSIBLE LEATHER BELt
By Hermès
Located in GB
Royal House Antiques is delighted to offer for sale this absolutely exquisite vintage solid 18ct gold fully stamped Hermes Paris Diamond encrusted belt bucket with brand new reversable Hermes brown...
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold
Chanel Pink & Ivory Tweed Mini Chain Bag
By Chanel
Located in New York, NY
A charming and highly collectible Chanel mini chain bag, crafted in signature pink and ivory tweed, embodying the timeless elegance of the house....
Chanel 98A Camellia Flower Barrette Hair Clip
By Chanel
Located in Sewickley, PA
Chanel Barrette Camelia matelassé CC Quilted 24K Gold Plated Metal Hair Clip Chanel hair clip in quilted silver metal with a 3 camellia flower motif. ...
Gold Plate
Vintage Black Chanel Bag
By Chanel
Located in New York, NY
A vintage black Chanel handbag with a flap-style closure, featuring a signature diamond-quilted leather body and a shoulder strap composed of a thick, gold-tone chain interwoven with...
Chanel Champagne Metal Head Jewelry
By Chanel
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Chanel - (Made in France) Champagne metal head jewelry with costume pearls and glass pearls. Additional information: Condition: Very good condition Dimensions: Length: 56 cm Seller...
Chanel CC Charm Golden Metal Ring
By Chanel
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Chanel - Golden metal ring with a cc charm. Jewelry not signed, probably from private sales. Additional information: Condition: Very good condition Dimensions: Size 52 Seller Refer...
Chanel Silvery Metal Keyring, 2002
By Chanel
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Chanel - (Made in France) Silvery metal keyring. 2002 Cruise Collection under the direction of Karl Lagerfeld. Additional information: Condition: Very good condition Dimensions: Len...
Chanel Silvery Metal Keyring, 2002
By Chanel
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Chanel - (Made in France) Silvery metal keyring. 2002 Cruise Collection under the direction of Karl Lagerfeld. Additional information: Condition: Very good condition Dimensions: Len...
Chanel Bag Jewelry / Keyring with Enamel, 2010
By Chanel
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Chanel - (Made in France) Dark-golden metal bag jewelry / keyring with enamel. 2010 Fall-Winter Collection. Additional information: Condition: Good condition Dimensions: Height: 11....
Enamel
Chanel Dark-Golden Bag Jewelry / Keyring with Enamel, 2010
By Chanel
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Chanel - (Made in France) Dark-golden metal articulated bag jewelry / keyring with enamel. 2010 Fall-Winter Collection under the direction of Karl Lagerfeld. Additional information:...
Chanel Champagne Metal Bag Jewelry / Keyring with Enamel, 2010s
By Chanel
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Chanel - (Made in Italy) Champagne metal bag jewelry / keyring with enamel, bearing the effigy of Coco Chanel. 2010 Cruise Collection. Additional information: Condition: Very good c...
Enamel
Chanel Dark-Silvery Metal Bag Jewelry / Keyring, 2012
By Chanel
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Chanel - (Made in Italy) Dark-silvery metal bag jewelry / keyring enameled with blue bearing the effigy of Coco Chanel. 2012 Collection. Additional information: Condition: Very good...
Chanel Golden Metal Jewelry Belt, 1984
By Chanel
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Chanel - (Made in France) Golden metal articulated belt ornamented with glass paste cabochons, costume pearly cabochons, and rhinestones. A 1984 Collection. Additional information: ...