Jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger once said that he strived to “make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, at random, organic, in motion.” His jewels interpreted the vitality of the natural world with lively designs that included a moonstone-topped jellyfish brooch with sapphire tentacles exuding a watery shimmer and a ring encrusted with a burst of diamonds that “bloomed” like a flower bud.
A self-taught jeweler, Schlumberger’s mastery of color as well as his expertise as a draftsman brought his fantastic ideas to life. Born to a leading textile manufacturing family in Alsace, France, Schlumberger took to drawing as a child and showed promise as an artist, but his parents instead sent him to study banking in Berlin in the 1930s. Uninspired, he departed for Paris and began creating buttons for Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who also commissioned him for costume jewelry.
One of Schlumberger’s early pieces — a cigarette lighter in the form of a fish whose head opened to reveal the flame — demonstrated his skill for capturing the vivacity of nature in precious metal. The designer’s imaginative jewelry was in contrast to popular geometric lines of Art Deco, an independent vision he affirmed in the extravagant 1941 Trophée de Vaillance brooch created for fashion editor Diana Vreeland. An extravagant confection of diamonds, amethyst, rubies and gold, the brooch featured gemstones adorning an intricate intersection of tiny spears and a breastplate over a glittering shield.
After serving in the French army and the Free French forces during World War II — and surviving the Battle of Dunkirk — Schlumberger left war-torn Europe for New York and in 1946 established a jewelry salon with Nicolas Bongard. There, his vibrant work caught the eye of Tiffany & Co. After joining the American luxury jewelry house in 1956, he soon had his own studio on the mezzanine of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue store that he accessed by a private elevator. In his workshop, Schlumberger used a rainbow of gemstones, gold and diamonds to create some of the company’s most beguiling designs.
From striking earrings shaped like soaring wings to diamond birds perched on glittering gemstones, each of Schlumberger’s Tiffany designs dazzled. His supporters included Bunny Mellon, whose love for horticulture inspired commissions such as the Jasmine necklace with diamond blossoms flowering from a garland of colored sapphires, and Jacqueline Kennedy, who wore his Croisillon bracelets so often they became known as “Jackie bracelets.” Schlumberger retired from Tiffany in the late 1970s, but decades after his designs were introduced many of his popular pieces remain in production.
On 1stDibs, find an extraordinary range of vintage Jean Schlumberger jewelry today.
Price Upon Request
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Pine Cone Necklace, Jean Schlumberger
By Jean Schlumberger
Located in New York, NY
Important Haute Couture Pine Cone Necklace.Victorian in inspiration. and made by Jean Schlumberger for Schiaparelli. "Schiaparelli is above all the dressmaker of eccentricity. Has s...
18 Karat White Gold and Diamond Necklace with a Heart Motif on Chain
Located in Honolulu, HI
Beautiful diamond neckalce with drop heart motif in 18k white gold. This gorgeous necklace features 17 round diamonds bezel set at the center of a chain with a heart shape drop pendant pave set with 6 round diamonds. The diamond section is hinged between bezels for flexibility. A total of 24 round brilliant cut diamonds, G - H in color and SI in clarity totaling approximately 0.20 carat. The necklace is 15.50 inch long. The chain is cable link equipped wuth a lobster clasp. This gorgeous daimond necklace...
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
German Henrich & Denzel Diamond and Platinum Dew Necklace
Located in Troy, MI
The Tau Collection by Henrich & Denzel is known for its' phenomenal engineering with sparkling jewels of perfect purity and as gentle as the early morning dew . Necklace is handmade ...
Diamond, Platinum
Vintage Belgian 1950s Diamond and Yellow Gold Necklace
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
A stunning vintage Belgian 1950s 0.54 carat diamond and 18 karat yellow gold necklace; part of our diverse vintage jewelry and estate jewelry collections. This stunning, fine and impressive vintage diamond necklace has been crafted in 18k yellow gold with 18k white gold settings. The articulated setting is composed of curvilinear feather shaped links, graduated in size. The centre of the shaped setting is ornamented with a multi-stranded drop setting, embellished with twelve individually 18k white gold four claw set transitional modern brilliant round cut diamonds. The feature setting suspends from a spiga style chain, securing with a cylindrical push fit clasp to the reverse. The push fit clasp is fitted with an additional safety chain and spring loaded bolt ring fastening. The necklace is hallmarked to the reverse with the Belgian 18k gold fineness mark -0750- and maker's mark. The safety chain clasp is also hallmarked with the 18k gold fineness mark -750. This Belgian diamond necklace is supplied with an independent diamond grading report card. Condition This stunning vintage 1950s diamond...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
$2,985
W 0.87 in D 4.9 in L 16 in
Alfred Karram 1970 Geometric Sculptural Necklace in Solid 0.925 Sterling Silver
Located in Miami, FL
Geometric necklace designed by Alfred Karram (1932-2017). A beautiful piece of wearable art, created in New York city by the Architect and artist Alfred...
Silver, Sterling Silver
Multi Shape Diamonds Gold Drop Choker Necklace
By Diamond Scene
Located in New York, NY
A unique design! Large pear and marquise shaped diamonds hanging from a multi size round diamond choker. 46.62 carats of near colorless white VS clarity diamonds set in 1...
Diamond, White Diamond, 18k Gold
Plique-à-jour Enamel, Pearl and Diamond Flower Necklace
By Moira
Located in London, GB
A Moira Collection, plique-à-jour enamel flower necklace, with sky blue plique-à-jour enamel flowers, and green plique-à-jour leaves, with old-cut and eight-cut diamonds and three large cultured drop pearls at the front, mounted in silver-upon-gold. This Moira creation, features an adapted large antique...
Diamond, Pearl, South Sea Pearl, Gold, Silver, Enamel
Remarkable 18th Century 'Queen Anne' Choker
Located in Baltimore, MD
Almandine garnets set in gilt metal are fashioned into a striking choker with drop, which can be removed. The choker is tied on with a ribbon. Much o...
Garnet
Diamond Curved V Bar Necklace .30 Carats in 14 Karat Yellow Gold Stationary
By Five Star Jewelry
Located in Austin, TX
This gorgeous 14 karat gold curved V bar style necklace dripping with glamorous white diamonds is flattering on any neck! This necklace is very versatile, and can be dressed up or dr...
Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Ruby Diamond Pendant Necklace 14K Gold Snake Chain
By Estate Jewelry
Located in East Brunswick, NJ
Ruby Diamond Pendant Necklace 14K Gold Snake Chain This estate necklace is crafted in solid 14K Yellow gold (carefully tested and guaran...
Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Sapphire and Diamond Earring and Necklace Set
By Diamond Scene New York
Located in New York, NY
An grand and important sapphire and diamond earring and necklace set. 116.50 carats of vivid blue to blue Ceylon Sapph...
Diamond, Sapphire
Eostre Emerald Cabochon and Diamond Necklace in 18K White Gold
Located in Melbourne, AU
The design of this Emerald necklace is very contemporary and focus on maximizing the occasions it can be worn. Emerald necklaces are generally either deviate towards the vintage sta...
Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold, White Gold
1960s Sterling Silver Mexican Modernist Kinetic Fringe Bib Necklace
Located in Palm Springs, CA
Sterling silver Mexican modernist fringe kinetic necklace circa 1960's or 1970's, maker unknown. Necklace is as light as a feather and has a glistenin...
Sterling Silver
Tiffany, Schlumberger Multistrand Pearl, Gold and Blue Paillonné Necklace
By Jean Schlumberger
Located in New York, NY
Tiffany & Co., Schlumberger Multistrand Cultured Pearl, Gold and Blue Paillonné Enamel Torsade Necklace, France. 18 kt., composed of twenty-three strands of pearls ap. 2.8 to 2.6 mm...
Pearl, Gold
Tiffany, Schlumberger 18K Yellow Gold Bowtie Link Necklace
By Jean Schlumberger
Located in New York, NY
Designed as a series of 18k gold bow tie links, to the sculpted gold boule trim. Metal: 18k yellow gold Signature: TIFFANY SCHLUMBERGER Marks: MADE IN FRANCE, French export marks, ...
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger France Diamond Foliate Vine Necklace
By Jean Schlumberger
Located in New York, NY
Tiffany France Schlumberger Platinum and 18K Gold Foliate Vine Necklace with Aprop. 46.25 carats Round Brilliant and Emerald Cut Diamonds. Marked "T...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Platinum