Rooted in centuries of history of adornment dating back to the ancient world, modern jewelry reimagines traditional techniques, forms and materials for expressive new pieces. As opposed to contemporary jewelry, which responds to the moment in which it was created, modern jewelry often describes designs from the 20th to 21st centuries that reflect movements and trends in visual culture.
Modern jewelry emerged from the 19th-century shift away from jewelry indicating rank or social status. The Industrial Revolution allowed machine-made jewelry using electric gold plating, metal alloys and imitation stones, making beautiful jewelry widely accessible. Although mass production deemphasized the materials of the jewelry, the vision of the designer remained important, something that would be furthered in the 1960s with what’s known as the “critique of preciousness.”
A design fair called the “Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes” brought global attention to the Art Deco style in 1925 and gathered a mix of jewelry artists alongside master jewelers like Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin and Boucheron. Art Deco designs from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels unconventionally mixed gemstones like placing rock crystals next to diamonds while borrowing motifs from eclectic sources including Asian lacquer and Persian carpets. Among Cartier’s foremost design preoccupations at the time were high-contrast color combinations and crisp, geometric forms and patterns. In the early 20th century, modernist jewelers like Margaret De Patta and artists such as Alexander Calder — who is better known for his kinetic sculptures than his provocative jewelry — explored sculptural metalwork in which geometric shapes and lines were preferred over elaborate ornamentation.
Many of the innovations in modern jewelry were propelled by women designers such as Wendy Ramshaw, who used paper to craft her accessories in the 1960s. During the 1970s, Elsa Peretti created day-to-night pieces for Tiffany & Co. while designers like Lea Stein experimented with layering plastic, a material that had been employed in jewelry since the mid-19th century and had expanded into Bakelite, acrylics and other unique materials.
Find a collection of modern watches, bracelets, engagement rings, necklaces, earrings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
Vintage Leopard Motif Gold Diamond Enamel & Ruby Butane Lighter by Frascorolo
By Frascarolo
Located in Palm Beach, FL
This artistic and extremely well crafted 18K yellow gold, vintage butane lighter was imagined and created by the venerated house of Frascarolo in Verona Italy, at some point around t...
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel
Vintage Guilloché Blue Enamel and 14 Carat Yellow Gold Egg Charm
Located in London, GB
This stunning 14 carat yellow gold enamel egg charm/pendant is a timeless piece, sure to be cherished for years to come. Both sides showcase rich royal blue Guilloché enamel, comple...
Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Christian Dior, Key/Bag Chain with Enamel Charms, Made in Italy, circa 1990s
Located in Chatham, CA
CHRISTIAN DIOR - Elegant designer white metal key chain with multi-color enamel bag charms - fine quality - each charm with the 'CD' logo - three charms pierced metal - four individual charms in red, lavender, white and pink enamel - signed 'Dior' on the key ring and the purse strap ring - purse strap ring with secure lock - 'Made in Italy' to both rings...
Enamel
Vintage Guilloché Green Enamel and 14 Carat Yellow Gold Egg Charm
Located in London, GB
Radiating vintage charm, this 14 carat yellow gold enamel egg charm/pendant is a true conversation piece. This piece is mostly covered in emerald green Guilloché enamel, with the f...
Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
American Sterling Silver Cigarette Case with Enamel Nautical Flags
Located in New York, NY
Nautical sterling silver and enamel cigarette case. Made by Thomae in Attleboro, Mass., ca 1960. Rectangular and hinged. Signal flags enameled on front. Gi...
Sterling Silver
12 Mid-Century Modern Gilt Sterling Silver & White Guilloche Enamel Salt Spoons
By N.M. Thune
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine set of Norwegian Mid-Century Modern salt dips. By N. M. Thune of Oslo, Norway. In gilt sterling silver. With white guilloché decorated handles. Fully marked to the reverse...
Sterling Silver, Enamel, Gilt Metal
La Nouvelle Bague silver and enamel desk frame
Located in Perugia, IT
La Nouvelle Bague desk frame in 925/ooo sterling silver and blue fire enamel. Measurements 6 x 6 x 1.5 cm, total weight g 60. Photo aperture cm 3.5 x 3.5 Made in Italy - Florence 199...
Sterling Silver
14K Yellow Gold Retro Ridged Tie Bar, Unisex, 1990s, 2.3g
Located in Palm Desert, CA
14 Karat Ridged Tie Bar. Simple design yet sophisticated piece that will add a nice detail to any tie. The top of the tie bar has a zig-zag design and the enti...
Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Money Bag Charm 14 Karat Yellow Gold
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
Designer: custom design Material: 14k yellow gold Dimensions: charm is 20mm long and 11.5mm wide Weight: .50 grams
14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Silver-Tone Purple Guilloché Enamel Compact with Clock 20th Century
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
Circa: Early 20th Century Dimensions: Approx. 5 x 3.5 inches (case), weight 19 grams Features: Miniature round watch on obverse, hinged powder compartment, interior mirror, chain han...
Gold Plate, Silver, Sterling Silver, Enamel
Austrian Guilloche Enamel Silver & Glass Table or Dresser Box
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine antique Austrian glass, silver, & enamel table or dresser box. By Georg Adam Scheid. With a cornucopia or vase form decoration enamel flowers in a guilloche cartouche. The r...
Silver, Enamel
$119Sale Price|20% Off
Neon Technosphere Collection "Bermudas" Wristwatch By Swatch, 1990s
By Swatch
Located in McKinney, TX
- Vintage item - Collectible costume jewelry piece from the '90s - 9" total length - Summer/beach/surfer themed - Quartz movement - By Swatch Watch - From the 1991 Spring/Summer "Technosphere" collection - Style number GK133 - Comes in original Swatch...
Michel Perchin Silver Gilt Fountain Pen, Russian Imperial Blue Enamel, Germany.
Located in Miami, FL
Offered here is a Michel Perchin Pen. Sterling silver gilt and enamel fountain pen, made in Germany. 0728/4321. in great condition, intriguing de...
Silver, Enamel
$607
H 3 in W 2.87 in D 0.37 in
Early 20th Century Antique Silver Enamel Figures in Garden Scene Compact
Located in Miami Beach, FL
Antique enamel and 800 silver compact. The rectangular top is enclosed by a rocaille scrollwork border with faux-lapis lazuli and faux-turquoise enamel inlay, centering a scene of a ...
Silver, Enamel
Art Deco Diamond Enamel Sapphire Platinum Drummer Boy Charm
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a little drummer boy with a highly detailed enamel face Set throughout by rose cut diamonds and blue sapphire accents With millegrain detail ...
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Platinum
vintage foliate design crystals high tiara 1990s
Located in Wilmslow, GB
A vintage foliate tiara. Featuring foliate style swags decorated with tiny crystals. Vintage Condition: Very good without damage or noteworthy wear. Materials: blackened silver meta...
18th Century Indian Gold, Diamond & Enamel Bazuband (Armband)
Located in Great Neck Plaza, NY
An exceptional and rare 18th-century Indian bazuband (armband) crafted circa 1775. This exquisite piece showcases the artistry of the period with a striking dual-sided design. One si...
Diamond, Gold, Enamel
Frascarolo, 18K Gold Diamond Emerald Enamel Deer Desk Clock
By Frascarolo
Located in New York, NY
This artistic clock features a beautifully crafted enamel deer design, lively and charming, as if leaping through nature. Created by the Frascarolo brand, this piece is a classic fro...
Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold, Enamel
$14,275
W 3.15 in L 5.56 in
Gustave-Roger Sandoz, Rare Art Deco Silver and Enamel Cigarette Case, circa 1925
Located in Paris, FR
Express Shipping still available during Lockdown Gustave-Roger Sandoz Cigarette Case, Circa 1925 Silver with Enamel geometric decoration on both sides. The clasp set with a cabochon...
Onyx, Silver
Tiffany & Co. Sterling Hand-Chased Rocking Horse Baby Cup
Located in New York, NY
This elegant Tiffany & Co. baby cup is finely crafted in solid sterling silver and features a beautifully hand-chased rocking horse motif, a timeless symbol traditionally associa...
Sterling Silver
Vintage Guilloché Red Enamel and 14 Carat Yellow Gold Egg Charm
Located in London, GB
This exquisite 14 carat yellow gold enamel egg charm/pendant is a little treasure full of vintage charm. Intricately designed, this charm features a rich, deep red Guilloché enamel...
Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Sold
W 0.71 in D 0.08 in L 3.59 in
2 Scandanavian Modern Sterling Silver & Enamel Rooster Form Cocktail Picks
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine pair of Norwegian Mid-century Modern cocktail picks. By Bernard Meldahl. In sterling silver with enamel and traces of gilding. Simply a great pair of cocktail picks! Date...
Sterling Silver, Enamel
Modern Faberge 18 Karat Yellow Gold Blue Guilloché Caged Locket with Certificate
By Fabergé
Located in New York, NY
This Modern Faberge 18 Karat Yellow Gold and Blue Caged Guilloché locket opens and can hold two photographs measuring approixmately 1" in length, and ...
Diamond, 18k Gold
Faberge 18 Karat Gold Guilloche Chartreuse Green Locket, Diamond and Ruby
By Fabergé
Located in New York, NY
This modern 18 karat yellow gold and enamel locket was created by Victor Mayer. Crafted in the tradition of the original Imperial eggs, this pendant locket was beautifully with Fabe...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Modern Faberge 18 Karat Gold, Guilloché Enamel Oval Locket with Certificate
By Fabergé
Located in New York, NY
This Modern Faberge 18 Karat Yellow Gold oval locket is adorned with Purple and Green Guilloché Enamel stripes. The 18 Karat yellow gold bale opens allowing you to attach the locket ...
18k Gold