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Modern Enamel Frames and Objects

MODERN STYLE

Rooted in centuries of history of adornment dating back to the ancient world, modern jewelry reimagines traditional techniques, forms and materials for expressive new pieces. As opposed to contemporary jewelry, which responds to the moment in which it was created, modern jewelry often describes designs from the 20th to 21st centuries that reflect movements and trends in visual culture.

Modern jewelry emerged from the 19th-century shift away from jewelry indicating rank or social status. The Industrial Revolution allowed machine-made jewelry using electric gold plating, metal alloys and imitation stones, making beautiful jewelry widely accessible. Although mass production deemphasized the materials of the jewelry, the vision of the designer remained important, something that would be furthered in the 1960s with what’s known as the “critique of preciousness.”

A design fair called the “Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes” brought global attention to the Art Deco style in 1925 and gathered a mix of jewelry artists alongside master jewelers like Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin and Boucheron. Art Deco designs from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels unconventionally mixed gemstones like placing rock crystals next to diamonds while borrowing motifs from eclectic sources including Asian lacquer and Persian carpets. Among Cartier’s foremost design preoccupations at the time were high-contrast color combinations and crisp, geometric forms and patterns. In the early 20th century, modernist jewelers like Margaret De Patta and artists such as Alexander Calder — who is better known for his kinetic sculptures than his provocative jewelry — explored sculptural metalwork in which geometric shapes and lines were preferred over elaborate ornamentation.

Many of the innovations in modern jewelry were propelled by women designers such as Wendy Ramshaw, who used paper to craft her accessories in the 1960s. During the 1970s, Elsa Peretti created day-to-night pieces for Tiffany & Co. while designers like Lea Stein experimented with layering plastic, a material that had been employed in jewelry since the mid-19th century and had expanded into Bakelite, acrylics and other unique materials.

Find a collection of modern watches, bracelets, engagement rings, necklaces, earrings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

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Style: Modern
Christian Dior, Key/Bag Chain with Enamel Charms, Made in Italy, circa 1990s
Christian Dior, Key/Bag Chain with Enamel Charms, Made in Italy, circa 1990s

Christian Dior, Key/Bag Chain with Enamel Charms, Made in Italy, circa 1990s

By Christian Dior

Located in Chatham, CA

CHRISTIAN DIOR - Elegant designer white metal key chain with multi-color enamel bag charms - fine quality - each charm with the 'CD' logo - three charms pierced metal - four individual charms in red, lavender, white and pink enamel - signed 'Dior' on the key ring and the purse strap ring - purse strap ring with secure lock - 'Made in Italy' to both rings...

Category

Late 20th Century Italian Modern Enamel Frames and Objects

Materials

Enamel

La Nouvelle Bague silver and enamel desk frame
La Nouvelle Bague silver and enamel desk frame

La Nouvelle Bague silver and enamel desk frame

By Nouvelle Bague

Located in Perugia, IT

La Nouvelle Bague desk frame in 925/ooo sterling silver and blue fire enamel. Measurements 6 x 6 x 1.5 cm, total weight g 60. Photo aperture cm 3.5 x 3.5 Made in Italy - Florence 199...

Category

1990s Italian Modern Enamel Frames and Objects

Materials

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Vintage Guilloché Green Enamel and 14 Carat Yellow Gold Egg Charm
Vintage Guilloché Green Enamel and 14 Carat Yellow Gold Egg Charm

Vintage Guilloché Green Enamel and 14 Carat Yellow Gold Egg Charm

Located in London, GB

Radiating vintage charm, this 14 carat yellow gold enamel egg charm/pendant is a true conversation piece. This piece is mostly covered in emerald green Guilloché enamel, with the f...

Category

1980s Unknown Vintage Modern Enamel Frames and Objects

Materials

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12 Mid-Century Modern Gilt Sterling Silver & White Guilloche Enamel Salt Spoons
12 Mid-Century Modern Gilt Sterling Silver & White Guilloche Enamel Salt Spoons

12 Mid-Century Modern Gilt Sterling Silver & White Guilloche Enamel Salt Spoons

By N.M. Thune

Located in Philadelphia, PA

A fine set of Norwegian Mid-Century Modern salt dips. By N. M. Thune of Oslo, Norway. In gilt sterling silver. With white guilloché decorated handles. Fully marked to the reverse...

Category

Mid-20th Century Norwegian Modern Enamel Frames and Objects

Materials

Sterling Silver, Enamel, Gilt Metal

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