Gucci 1970s Silk Shirt

Long before trend-bucking creative director Alessandro Michele brought his hallucinatory “Utopian Fantasy” campaign to Gucci, it was a modest Italian leather shop. Today, it’s an internationally renowned luxury house with an iconic logo, and vintage Gucci clothing, handbags and shoes are among high fashion's most covetable goods.

Guccio Gucci (1881–1953) admired the stylish suitcases he saw wealthy guests arrive with at the Savoy Hotel in London, where he worked as a bellhop. So, in 1921, after a stint at Franzi, a luggage company in his hometown of Florence, he opened a leather goods shop of his own.

At first, Gucci’s Florence business specialized in equestrian accessories. But as its reputation flourished, particularly among the English aristocracy, so too did its footprint. In 1938, he brought three of his sons — Aldo, Vasco and Rodolfo — into the business and expanded it to Rome and later Milan. In the mid-1930s, a League of Nations embargo against Italy pushed Gucci to experiment with alternatives to imported leather. Its woven hemp fabric from Naples, adorned with the brand’s signature diamond print, was a hit, especially among A-list celebrities. The material was first used on suitcases before finding enduring popularity on handbags. (No list of revered designer purses would be complete without Gucci.)

In the 1950s, Elizabeth Taylor carried one of Gucci’s bamboo-handled tote bags, another adaptation to material rationing. After Jackie Kennedy was seen sporting a slouchy Gucci tote in 1961, it was renamed for the First Lady. Then Grace Kelly, on a visit to the boutique in Milan, inspired Rodolfo Gucci to work with Italian illustrator and Gucci textile designer Vittorio Accornero on the Flora print in 1966. Taking cues from Sandro Botticelli’s Primavera, with its pattern of flora and insects, it was painted entirely by hand and featured no fewer than 37 colors.

In 1953, just 15 days after opening his first store on New York’s 5th Avenue, Guccio passed away at 72. The early 1970s saw store openings in Tokyo and Hong Kong, but by the late 1980s, Gucci was floundering. Rodolfo Gucci took charge in 1982, but family drama and lawsuits ensued. In 1993, Rodolfo’s son, Maurizio, transferred his shares in the company to Investcorp, ending the family’s involvement in Gucci. Dawn Mello, then-president of Bergdorf Goodman, joined as creative director in 1989. But it was Tom Ford, who took over as creative director in 1994, who ultimately revived the brand.

Ford’s racy ads, shot by photographers such as Mario Testino, stirred controversy. And his potent vision of sexed-up femininity — with “jewel-toned satin shirts unbuttoned to there,” as Vogue described his breakthrough 1995 runway show — was wildly successful. The new millennium brought new ownership — Pinault Printemps Redoute in 2004 — and a more toned-down vision from Frida Giannini, who became sole creative director in 2006. Alessandro Michele was named creative director in 2015, and the storied brand took a giant leap forward.

Find vintage Gucci clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.

While everyone has a different go-to style of vintage and designer shirt in the closet, the goal is the same: a fit that emphasizes your favorite features, looks great and favors your skin tone. A good shirt is going to make you feel good, regardless of your shape or size.

The shirt is the quiet powerhouse of any outfit. A neutral top is likely the most versatile garment in your wardrobe. A white T-shirt is an iconic creation that remains modern even today, a black button-down can be paired with everything and that gray long sleeve is going to dazzle with dark-wash denim jeans.

There are certain universal things to keep in mind when shopping for your next shirt. If you’re building out your wardrobe, for example, it wouldn’t hurt to secure some staples in the aforementioned neutral category. Any shade of gray, beige or cream, navy blue, black, white — there is nothing more adaptable than shirts in these colors. All of these colors pair swimmingly with one another, which makes it easy to put together an outfit, and you can always add a splash of color by way of a red knit tie to your gray pants, navy suit jacket and white button-down shirt ensemble. For a men’s dress shirt, specifically, you’ll want it to be long enough to tuck into your pants, or leave untucked, depending on the occasion, but it should not bunch at the waist if you decide to go with the former.

Combining the right elements and adding the perfect finishing touch is just as important as getting the right fit. The proper pants and jacket elevate even the simplest of T-shirts. Sometimes success just means donning a beautifully constructed bomber jacket and a perfect fitting pair of jeans. Fashion and clothing don’t have to be complicated.

The same factors apply generally to women’s shirts and women’s dress shirts too. Hem-wise, a woman’s dress shirt should be long enough to comfortably wear untucked or tucked in, and you shouldn’t have a gaping space between your buttons. In sum, your shirt should make you feel like a boss. Is it comfortable? Do you have freedom of movement throughout the day? Does it make you feel great regardless of your size or shape? If so, it’s a keeper.

At 1stDibs, find exciting vintage shirts from prominent luxury fashion houses, such as Yves Saint Laurent, Versace and Chanel, as well as the perfect handbags and accessories to complete your look. Our wide range of men’s and women’s shirts offers a little something for everyone: There are polos, T-shirts, button-downs, blouses, novelty shirts and more. Browse an extensive collection of vintage 20th-century pieces and iconic graphic tees too.