unworn 1999 MARTIN MARGIELA sheer 'crushed' black RUNWAY skirt
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Fransisco, CA
This is an intentionally “crushed” sheer black skirt from Maison Martin Margiela’s Spring 1999
unworn 1999 MARTIN MARGIELA sheer 'crushed' black RUNWAY skirt
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Fransisco, CA
This is an intentionally “crushed” sheer black skirt from Maison Martin Margiela’s Spring 1999
Maison Martin Margiela Vintage Spring 2003 100% Cotton Black Knit Top
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Antwerpen, Vlaams Gewest
Maison Martin Margiela by Martin Vintage Spring 2003 100% Cotton Black Knit Top This is a rare
Martin Margiela Spring Summer 1996 Vintage Trompe L'oeil Silk Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Antwerpen, Vlaams Gewest
Maison Martin Margiela’s Spring–Summer 1996 collection is known for its playful use of trompe-l’œil
Maison Martin Margiela Spring 1999 Trompe-L'œil Semi Couture Bodice
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Diego, CA
Maison Martin Margiela dressmaker bodice in Trompe-L'œil printed cotton featured on the spring 1999
Margiela Artisanal white shirt, Spring-Summer 1995
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in London, GB
Margiela Artisanal white shirt, Spring-Summer 1995
Margiela Spring-Summer 1993 ivory cotton canvas jacket
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in London, GB
Maison Martin Margiela Spring-Summer 1993 ivory cotton canvas jacket - satin shawl collar - single
Martin Margiela Grey Inverted Overlocked Dress, Spring/Summer 1991
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in CAPELLE AAN DEN IJSSEL, ZH
Presenting a rare archival piece from Martin Margiela's groundbreaking Spring/Summer 1991
Margiela Spring-Summer 1998 faux leather paper bag vest
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in London, GB
Margiela Spring-Summer 1998 faux leather paper bag vest from the 'flat collection'. The two
Maison Martin Margiela Spring-Summer 1996 digital print jersey cardigan
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in London, GB
Maison Martin Margiela Spring-Summer 1996 jersey cardigan with a digital print of a jacket
Maison Martin Margiela Spring-Summer 1996 black cotton cropped flight jacket
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in London, GB
Maison Martin Margiela Spring-Summer 1996 black cotton cropped flight jacket
Maison Martin Margiela Spring-Summer 1993 black string net halter neck vest
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in London, GB
Maison Martin Margiela Spring-Summer 1993 black string net halter neck vest
Vintage Maison Martin Margiela Spring 98 suede sleeveless vest
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Berlin, DE
Vintage Maison Martin Margiela Spring 98 suede sleeveless vest. A series of flat garments, Garments
$500
Size: vintage 12; comparable to size M
Dove Gray A-Line Shift Dress with Bead-Crusted Neckline and Pockets - M, 1960s
Located in Tucson, AZ
Perfect for brunch, weddings and cocktail parties, this heavyweight linen dress combines crisp geometry with masterful but discrete beading. Its Mod fingertip pockets and gentle A-li...
1960'S Pyschedelic Floral Cotton Long Sleeve Mod Dress With Pockets
Located in New York, NY
1960'S Pyschedelic Floral Cotton Long Sleeve Mod Dress With Pockets
1930S Black Silk Chantilly Lace Gown With Tiered Ruffle Hem & Puff Sleeves
Located in New York, NY
1930S Black Silk Chantilly Lace Gown With Tiered Ruffle Hem & Puff Sleeves
John Galliano Lace Cardigan and 2 Camisoles Set
By John Galliano
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous cardigan and camisole set in black knit lace plus an additional matching red camisole all from John Galliano. The set consists of 2 flower pattern lace knit camisoles one ...
$835
Size: 36 / US 4 - 6
Chloe Stella McCartney Fall 2000 Runway Black Silk Boot Cut Low Rise Y2K Pants
By Stella McCartney, Chloé
Located in San Diego, CA
Classic and collectible for CHLOE black silk flared leg low rise trousers! Soft sturdy silk that holds shape nicely. Tailored fit, with a wider flare leg. Sits low on the hips, with ...
GUCCI by TOM FORD 1997 Vintage Runway Black Shirt
By Tom Ford for Gucci
Located in Leonardo, NJ
Tom Ford for Gucci Vintage Runway SS97 Jet black sheer Button down Built-in cuff links 100% cotton Not sure of the size please see measurements below Excellent condition, no flaws M...
Jean Paul Gaultier Sweater with Belt 1990s
By Jean Paul Gaultier
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous rust orange striped wool sweater from Jean Paul Gaultier. It has long sleeves, a standup collar with functional silver buttons closure along it's side and one shoulder and...
Tom Ford for Gucci 2001 Collection Black Angora and Mink Fur Luxurious Sweater M
By Tom Ford for Gucci, Gucci
Located in Montgomery, TX
The Most Luxurious Gucci Sweater Ever!!! F/W 2001 Runway Collection Size - M Color – Black, Angora and Genuine Sheared Mink Fur. Made in Italy. Excellent Condition.
New Emilio Pucci Runway Pumps Heels Wedges Sz 37
By Emilio Pucci
Located in Conroe, TX
Brand New Emilio Pucci Gorgeous Blue Suede Wedge Heels Size: 37 Suede Adjustable Ankle Strap Pucci Painted Cork Heel Heels: 5" Platforms: 1" New With Dust Cover
Vintage 2008 Roberto Cavalli Embellished Hummingbird Jeans Italian 38
By Roberto Cavalli
Located in Montgomery, TX
Roberto Cavalli Embellished Hummingbird Jeans Vintage 2008 Collection Italian size - 38 Low-Rise, bootcut, semi-distressed, mid-wash denim jeans. Exquisite hummingbird embroidery fr...
Azzedine Alaia F/W 1986 Jacket Skirt and Pants Suit
By Azzedine Alaïa
Located in Water Mill, NY
An amazing iconic fine black wool 3 piece skirt, pant and jacket suit from Azzedine Alaia as displayed in SCAD Fashion Museum in Atlanta. The spectacular front wrapping jacket is a...
Tom Ford for Gucci FW 1999 Over the Knee Silk Ruched Boots + Matching Bag US 6.5
By Tom Ford for Gucci, Gucci
Located in Montgomery, TX
Vintage Tom Ford for Gucci Over the Knee Boots + Matching Bag Gorgeous ruched silk over-the-knee boots by Gucci. A signature of Tom Ford’s iconic 1999 F/W collection and documented o...
$4,455
Size: IT42 - FR38 - UK10 - US6
Prada by Miuccia Prada Black Silk Chiffon Box Pleated Shift Dress, ss 2000
By Prada
Located in London, GB
▪ Archival Prada Silk Shift Dress ▪ Creative Director: Miuccia Prada ▪ Spring-Summer 2000 ▪ Meticulously crafted from luxurious box-pleated black silk chiffon ▪ Elegant Constructi...
Gucci Silk Brocade Open Back Dress
By Gucci
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous silk dress from Gucci in a gold, rust and olive brocade fern pattern on a black background. It is a semi fitted dress with long zipper cuff sleeves and fabulous flatterin...
90s Gianfranco Ferre White Silk V Neck Sleeveless Gown
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
90s Gianfranco Ferre White Silk sleeveless gown with v neck satin lapel. Size: 40italy, fit size 6 US Perfect for wedding or rehearsal dinner. Measurement flat: Bust : 36”/ empire wa...
1990s Moschino Cheap & Chic Animal Print Vintage 90s Silk Short Sleeve Top
By Moschino
Located in San Diego, CA
Beautiful vintage MOSCHINO Cheap & Chic silk animal print blouse! Features leopard, zebra, cheetah, and tiger prints throughout. Warm colors of brown, ivory, trimmed with black lace....
Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, and designs for handbags, clothing and shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following the 1988 debut of Maison Martin Margiela, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.
Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”
Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.
Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century.
Margiela decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier. With Belgian designer Jenny Meirens, Margiela established Maison Martin Margiela in the French capital in 1988.
Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd.
The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.
While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.
“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”
John Galliano was named creative director at the house in 2014 and it rebranded as Maison Margiela in 2015.
Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.
For fashion lovers, the 1990s have become associated with styles adopted by today’s supermodels and influencers, who never wear the same thing twice. And because fast fashion didn’t yet exist, the design associated with 1990s fashion — vintage '90s handbags, clothing and accessories — has a quality appreciated by the millennial generation: authenticity.
If there was one concept unifying fashion in the 1990s, it was the lean silhouette. “Fashion is a game of proportion,” Alexander Fury wrote in the New York Times in 2016. “Narrow-shouldered and narrow-hipped, the ’90s were skinny.”
If it takes a practiced eye to identify that single concept, that’s because in truth, ’90s fashion was many things to many people. After the 1980s era of strong-shouldered working women, glossy aerobicized bodies and Madonna, fashion branched out.
The industry gained momentum from big-money relaunches of the great Paris houses Dior, Givenchy and Balenciaga, rescued at long last from the constraints of licensing. Japan and Belgium gave fashion new avant-garde ideas to play with. From America came denim, minimalism, '90s grunge fashion and hip-hop. From Italy came sex appeal. And Prada.
For the colorful corsets of her 1990 Portrait collection, audacious British designer Dame Vivienne Westwood drew on 18th-century oil paintings — her models donned the pearl choker necklaces that have become a social media star and a favorite of influencers and fashion lovers all over the world. For a jacket-and-shorts suit from her Fall/Winter 1996–97 Storm in a Teacup line, the designer used the extreme asymmetry of a tartan mash-up to confront, according to Westwood, “the horror of uniformity and minimalism.”
“The ethos of the time was, you could have style, you could be into all kinds of cool stuff. It wasn’t about money, it wasn’t about status,” says Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of Resurrection. In contrast, “our last 10 years have seen the domination of nonstop luxury, money and status.”
Vintage 1990s Chanel bags, for example, are among the most prized of the brand’s offerings — at Newfound Luxury, proprietor L. Kiyana Macon has "clients who only buy ’90s Chanel because they recognize that it is the best quality.”
Things were different in the ’90s, and the difference is reflected in the clothes. Pull up any recent “How to Do the 1990s” fashion article (or look at photos of current supermodels Gigi, Kendall and Bella), and you’ll see iconic '90s outfits — knee socks, cardigans, fanny packs, fishnet stockings, slip dresses, flannel shirts and combat boots.
Rodriguez has recently noticed something similar happening. Before COVID, customers searched 1990s stock “for very sexy Galliano, Dior, Cavalli — that kind of thing,” she explains, noting that just a few months ago, “people were posting [on social media] the poshest things they could.” Now, in the age of shutdown, “that would just look out of touch.”
Instead, people are looking for “things that are cool but also easy and comfortable, not necessarily super-luxe,” Rodriguez continues. They’re “heading back to the more avant-garde, anti-fashion designers, like Helmut Lang, [Martin] Margiela and [Ann] Demeulemeester.”
Late designer Franco Moschino shocked and titillated the ’80s fashion elite with his whimsical, irreverent parodies of bourgeois finery. Whether emblazoning a sober blazer with smiley faces or embellishing a skirt suit with cutlery, Moschino rendered high style with a hearty wink. He famously said, “If you can’t be elegant, at least be extravagant” — words that, with all due respect to Susan Sontag, epitomize the essence of camp.
Vintage Moschino pants, jackets and other '90s Moschino garments remain so bold and fresh today that even the house's former creative director, Jeremy Scott, drew on the brand's past and the pop culture of the decade for his debut collection in 2014.
Find vintage 90s dresses, skirts, sweaters and other clothing and accessories on 1stDibs — shop Thierry Mugler, Miuccia Prada, Jean Paul Gaultier and more today.
Start building your collection of covetable and iconic vintage clothing today — no matter where you roam, there is a curated selection of designer dresses and gowns, sweaters, shirts, dazzling shoes and more on 1stDibs that will keep you covered in the hottest styles from head to toe.
From elegant museum-worthy vintage Chanel dresses and jackets to audacious T-shirts and trousers from provocative punk designer Vivienne Westwood, one thing is abundantly clear: If the clothing for sale on 1stDibs could talk, it would certainly make a statement.
For fashion lovers, the 1990s have become associated with styles adopted by today’s supermodels and influencers — think John Galliano and Roberto Cavalli — but maybe ‘80s accessories are among your (guilty?) pleasures.
Playful, boldly colored coats and outerwear from Moschino, Ralph Lauren and other titans of the era can take a simpler ensemble to the next level, while chic and practical suits from the likes of Christian Dior and Balmain endure for haute couture advocates and beyond.
And vintage is the name of the game on today’s red carpets, too. Celebrity stylists are turning to archival pieces created by the likes of Bob Mackie, Thierry Mugler and Jean-Paul Gaultier as alternatives to new gowns plucked straight off the runway. Wearing such sought-after items gives celebrities instant allure and suggests a personal style that’s not only achingly glamorous but intellectually informed and influenced by a love of craftsmanship.
Those seeking contemporary luxury looks and in-demand street-style fits can indulge in designs by Bottega Veneta, Miu Miu and Loro Piana, while pieces from Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent and Versace endure as examples of fashion’s most covetable goods.
The future — and glamorous past — of fashion is yours for the wearing. Find vintage clothing and accessories for sale on 1stDibs, including designs by Balenciaga, Valentino, Celine, Loewe and more.