Yohji Yamamoto 1992

The avant-garde Japanese fashion designer Yohji Yamamoto has said, “dirty is good.” These three words capture the eccentric designer’s love of a dark and disheveled — yet dapper — look. A master tailor with a distinctive style, he creates everything from coats and jackets to day dresses and evening gowns.

Yamamoto was born to a World War II widow in 1943. By the time he was 26, he had a law degree from Keio University and a fashion degree from Bunka Fashion College. In 1969, he won two Japanese fashion awards — the Endo Award and the Soen Award — which included a round-trip ticket to Paris. 

It was in the French capital that Yamamoto realized the fashion world was changing. A casual aesthetic was replacing formal and classical sensibilities. He soon set up his first label — Y’s — and embarked upon designing heavy-duty sportswear.

Yamamoto launched women’s collections in 1977 in Tokyo, in 1981 in Paris and in 1982 in New York. Their pieces loosened the traditional female clothing silhouette in favor of shapes more typical of menswear: simple cuts, minimal details and generous proportions. In 1983, the New York Times wrote, “Yohji Yamamoto may stand barely five feet tall, but his effect on world fashion in the last two years has been enormous.”

In 1984, he made his first foray into men’s fashion under the Yohji Yamamoto label. In 1994, he was awarded the Ordre des Arts et des Lettres by the French Minister of Culture and, in 2002, he became the creative director of Adidas’s Y-3.

Yamamoto’s fashion has been the subject of exhibitions around the world, including “May I help you” in 2002 at the Maison Européenne de la Photographie in Paris, “Correspondences” in 2005 at the Gallery of Modern Art in Florence, Italy, and “Painting and Weaving Opportunity” in 2017 at Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery. In 2017, he received the DFA Lifetime Achievement Award.

On 1stDibs, find vintage Yohji Yamamoto clothing, accessories, handbags and more.

For fashion lovers, the 1990s have become associated with styles adopted by today’s supermodels and influencers, who never wear the same thing twice. And because fast fashion didn’t yet exist, the design associated with 1990s fashion — vintage '90s handbags, clothing and accessories — has a quality appreciated by the millennial generation: authenticity.

If there was one concept unifying fashion in the 1990s, it was the lean silhouette. “Fashion is a game of proportion,” Alexander Fury wrote in the New York Times in 2016. “Narrow-shouldered and narrow-hipped, the ’90s were skinny.”

If it takes a practiced eye to identify that single concept, that’s because in truth, ’90s fashion was many things to many people. After the 1980s era of strong-shouldered working women, glossy aerobicized bodies and Madonna, fashion branched out.

The industry gained momentum from big-money relaunches of the great Paris houses Dior, Givenchy and Balenciaga, rescued at long last from the constraints of licensing. Japan and Belgium gave fashion new avant-garde ideas to play with. From America came denim, minimalism, '90s grunge fashion and hip-hop. From Italy came sex appeal. And Prada.

For the colorful corsets of her 1990 Portrait collection, audacious British designer Dame Vivienne Westwood drew on 18th-century oil paintings — her models donned the pearl choker necklaces that have become a social media star and a favorite of influencers and fashion lovers all over the world. For a jacket-and-shorts suit from her Fall/Winter 1996–97 Storm in a Teacup line, the designer used the extreme asymmetry of a tartan mash-up to confront, according to Westwood, “the horror of uniformity and minimalism.”

“The ethos of the time was, you could have style, you could be into all kinds of cool stuff. It wasn’t about money, it wasn’t about status,” says Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of Resurrection. In contrast, “our last 10 years have seen the domination of nonstop luxury, money and status.”

Vintage 1990s Chanel bags, for example, are among the most prized of the brand’s offerings — at Newfound Luxury, proprietor L. Kiyana Macon has "clients who only buy ’90s Chanel because they recognize that it is the best quality.” 

Things were different in the ’90s, and the difference is reflected in the clothes. Pull up any recent “How to Do the 1990s” fashion article (or look at photos of current supermodels Gigi, Kendall and Bella), and you’ll see iconic '90s outfits — knee socks, cardigans, fanny packs, fishnet stockings, slip dresses, flannel shirts and combat boots.

Rodriguez has recently noticed something similar happening. Before COVID, customers searched 1990s stock “for very sexy Galliano, Dior, Cavalli — that kind of thing,” she explains, noting that just a few months ago, “people were posting [on social media] the poshest things they could.” Now, in the age of shutdown, “that would just look out of touch.”

Instead, people are looking for “things that are cool but also easy and comfortable, not necessarily super-luxe,” Rodriguez continues. They’re “heading back to the more avant-garde, anti-fashion designers, like Helmut Lang, [Martin] Margiela and [Ann] Demeulemeester.”

Late designer Franco Moschino shocked and titillated the ’80s fashion elite with his whimsical, irreverent parodies of bourgeois finery. Whether emblazoning a sober blazer with smiley faces or embellishing a skirt suit with cutlery, Moschino rendered high style with a hearty wink. He famously said, “If you can’t be elegant, at least be extravagant” — words that, with all due respect to Susan Sontag, epitomize the essence of camp.

Vintage Moschino pants, jackets and other '90s Moschino garments remain so bold and fresh today that even the house's former creative director, Jeremy Scott, drew on the brand's past and the pop culture of the decade for his debut collection in 2014.

Find vintage 90s dresses, skirts, sweaters and other clothing and accessories on 1stDibs — shop Thierry Mugler, Miuccia Prada, Jean Paul Gaultier and more today.

The vintage sweaters in your dresser may have humble origins, but they can’t be beaten for year-round fashion.

In the 15th century, sweaters originated as jersey tunics and other knitted shirts designed to keep sailors and fishermen warm. Later, during the 1880s in America, these knitted or crocheted vests or pullovers — in Britain, “jumpers” — were thought to substantially help athletes shed pounds as needed. Sweaters were an ideal garment for sports and outdoor events in the late 19th century. The knit fabric permitted movement but the material also protected against the cold. It wasn’t until the 1920s, however, that sweaters were introduced to the world of high fashion, thanks to pioneering designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli, Coco Chanel and Jeanne Lanvin.

A versatile garment, sweaters go well with most looks — from a casual gathering over drinks with friends to complementing a professional ensemble for the office to a night out at the theater. Simply pair a timeless cardigan with slacks or a skirt and your nicest dress shoes for any occasion, in any season, to tie an outfit together.

Once they were considered en vogue, sweaters were no longer strictly made with natural fibers like wool. Over time, fashion designers introduced the use of softer, synthetic materials. Today, traditional sweaters, such as those made with merino wool, are just as popular as more modern creations, such as the sweater dress. Similar to sweatshirts, sweaters come in all kinds of materials, from light synthetic blends perfect for spring to heavier fabrics, like cable-knit wool, to stay cozy and warm in winter and embrace the Danish concept of hygge.

A crucial factor that goes into selecting the perfect sweater is the material. High-quality wool, such as merino wool, which is soft and breathable, will feel luxurious and keep you warm on even the chilliest of evenings. Alpaca fleece, the fibers of which are native to Peru, offers the same warmth as wool, but an alpaca sweater is going to feel even softer than a merino wool sweater, similar to cashmere. Who doesn’t want a slouchy, oversize sweater made of a mix of mohair, nylon and wool on those subzero East Coast nights?

It’s important to note that wool can be a finicky material, easy to stain or distort and stretch. Synthetic materials are not only lightweight, but a nylon or polyester sweater will also be easier to wash and care for. If you opt for wool, take care of your sweater — fabric shavers, fabric combs and the local dry cleaner are your friends.

Sweaters come in various styles like V-neck, turtleneck and crewneck, which is the most popular style. For those extra cold days, a turtleneck offers added warmth without sacrificing style. Those looking for a casual touch that still emphasizes elegance can opt for a long tunic or scoop-neck pullover.

Maybe Versace or Gucci sweaters catch your eye, or ’90s fashion is your thing and a color-blocked sweater dress or John Galliano cardigan of the era is already a closet staple for you. Perhaps you’d rather opt for a 1970s long-sleeve knit top from Yves Saint Laurent. Either way, you’ll find exactly the black, beige or red vintage sweater you’re looking for in men, women or unisex styles today on 1stDibs.