What defines “fine” jewelry? For many aficionados, there’s a clear line separating the golden wheat from the gilded chaff. But the handcrafted pieces made by Ciner, a 128-year-old costume jewelry house with a glittering past to rival some of the hautest high jewelers, call into question our notions of what constitutes preciousness.
Quality? Craftsmanship? Painstaking detail? Vintage Ciner earrings, brooches, necklaces and other accessories have them all in spades.
Much of the Ciner’s allure can be traced to its origins in fine jewelry. Emanuel Ciner, an Austrian immigrant, founded the firm in Manhattan in 1892, crafting pieces from the traditional precious gems, gold and platinum. But World War I and the Great Depression caused purse strings to tighten and materials to become scarce. Rather than try to weather the economic downturn, which shuttered many other American jewelers, Ciner made the risky transition from fine jewelry to costume (or fashion) jewelry — virtually uncharted territory.
Emanuel Ciner’s sons, Irwin and Charles, introduced an array of innovations — rubber casting molds, which are especially durable and produce higher quality results, and white metal alloys, which affordably mimic the look of more precious materials — that would become the standard for costume jewelry. During World War II, Ciner’s advanced molding technology was utilized by the U.S. military to produce munitions and tools. This arrangement gave the firm access to the heavily rationed metals it needed for its jewels, enabling it again to endure conditions that drove others into bankruptcy.
The company hit its stride in the 1960s, when its jewelry was sold at some of the country’s toniest stores, even garnering an Andy Warhol–illustrated ad for Bonwit Teller. Its pieces were worn by the era’s brightest stars. In the famous 1957 Joe Shere photo of Sophia Loren sneering at Jayne Mansfield’s décolletage, Mansfield is resplendent in shoulder-grazing Ciner earrings.
Ciner is unique among costume jewelers in that its pieces aren’t imitations — they are coveted in their own right. Elizabeth Taylor, a voracious jewelry collector with a taste for the very finest, was a longtime client. Several suites of Ciner jewels were included in the 2011 Christie’s sale of Taylor’s collection, with one group of rhinestone-studded ear clips and a bracelet fetching $15,600 — more than 100 times the auction estimate. It’s a reminder of a time, not so long ago, when women of great style wore fine and costume jewelry with equal aplomb, often at the same time.
Today, Ciner — now run by Emanuel Ciner’s granddaughter Pat Ciner Hill and great-granddaughter Jean Hill — continues to adhere to the same exacting production specifications. It is the only jewelry house in New York, and likely the United States, that manufactures all its pieces entirely in-house. Each begins with dozens of elements that are cast in rubber molds and then individually filed and polished, plated in a particularly thick layer of 18-karat gold or rhodium, assembled on the bench and painted with enamel or set with stones. Every step is performed by hand by craftsmen, many of whom have been with the company for more than 30 years.
Find vintage Ciner clip-on earrings, choker necklaces, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
Ciner Bronze & Black Enameled Necklace New, Never Worn 1980s
By Ciner
Located in Wallkill, NY
Stunning Ciner Necklace Enameled with bronze reddish and black. Choker size which Measures - .57 inches wide and 14.5in long. We have many New, Never worn Ciner pieces on our storefr...
A soft grey baroque pearl and clear crystal 'twist' necklace, Ciner, USA, 1980s
By Ciner
Located in Greyabbey, County Down
A very elegant necklace, made from soft grey baroque paste pearls and faceted crystals, in a 'twist', meeting in a large gilt and paste clasp, with Mabe style soft grey paste pearl a...
Gilt Metal
1970s Lea Stein Studded Red Bakelite Choker
By Lea Stein
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
Rock the choker trend with our amazing 1970s studded red bakelite choker from none other than jewelry designer Lea Stein! Thin choker made from red bak...
Estate Black, Starr & Frost 18K Yellow Gold Torque Necklace
By Black, Starr & Frost
Located in New York, NY
Estate Black, Starr & Frost 18K yellow gold torque necklace. 20th Century Classic spiral twist design with a wonderful double hinged closure. Substantial, fine heirloom quality synon...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
25 Carat Natural Oval Colombian Emerald Necklace 18 Karat Yellow Gold
By Emeralds Maravellous
Located in Brunswick, ME
Exclusive Colombian Emerald Choker NecklaceCrafted in rich 18-karat yellow gold, this exceptional 18-inch choker necklace features 25.00 carats of fine Colombian emeralds.The piece s...
Emerald, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Chaumet Paris 18 Karat Yellow Gold Heart Necklace
By Chaumet
Located in Paris, FR
CHAUMET 18K yellow Gold Necklace representing intertwined Hearts all the long of the necklace. Eagle head hallmark for 18kt gold Signed : Chaumet and numbered on the Back of the He...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Emilio Pucci Gem Collar Necklace, 1980s
By Fiaschi
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
Very Rare and Important piece created by Fiaschi for Emilio Pucci in the 1980's. This authentic vintage Pucci necklace made of plexi glass gem stones in burnt orange, blue, red, gree...
Neck Collar Choker Necklace Star Blue Sapphire Diamond J Dauphin
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Star Choker Torque Necklace Black Diamond Blue Sapphire White Diamond Celestial Jewelry 14k Gold Plated Designer J DAUPHIN Handcrafted in a heavy 14k gold finish over brass, this rigid open neck torque features an asymmetrical celestial composition of star motifs. One side presents three star motifs set with black diamonds, balanced on the opposite side by a single star detailed with blue sapphire and white diamonds, drawing from configurations of 19th-century devotional jewelry. The star motifs are a symbol of balance, guidance, and orientation, representing the relationship between the earthly and the celestial. Blue sapphires represent strength and resilience, while white and black diamonds represent clarity and depth. The gold-finished collar references the craft of devotional jewelry, transforming this layout into a tool for modern life. Established in 2006 by Johanna DAUPHIN, the brand is built on a foundation of craftsmanship developed during her work as a designer at Fendi and Tod’s in Italy. Her years living and creating across Italy, Paris, New York, and Los Angeles have shaped the brand’s perspective. The designer has earned recognition, with collections carried in department stores. Known for creating pieces and styling rockstars in the music industry, her work balances luxury with execution. Materials: 14k gold over brass, blue sapphire, black diamonds, and white diamonds Design: Rigid open collar neck torque with an asymmetrical star design Style: 14k gold star torque necklace, diamond celestial neck bangle, blue sapphire star pendant...
Diamond, White Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 14k Gold, Gold Plate, Brass
YVES SAINT LAURENT Ysl by Robert Goossens Clear Rhinestones Choker Necklace
By Robert Goossens for Yves Saint Laurent
Located in Kingersheim, Alsace
Vintage YVES SAINT LAURENT Ysl by Robert Goossens Clear Rhinestones Choker Necklace Features: - 100% Authentic YVES SAINT LAURENT. - Rigid collar necklace with clear faceted rhinest...
Empires Ancient Silver Coin 18 Karat Yellow Gold Choker Necklace
By DUBINI
Located in London, GB
This DUBINI coin choker from the 'Empires' collection features an authentic silver Roman Imperial coin and an authentic silver Persepolis coin minted circ...
18k Gold, Silver, Yellow Gold
Vintage Black Enamel and Diamond Collar Necklace in 18K Yellow Gold
Located in Old Tappan, NJ
Pre owned vintage 18K yellow gold collar necklace with black enamel and diamonds. The heavy weight hollow collar is hinged on the sides and slightly ova...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
18kt Gold Diamonds and Mother-of-pearl Chocker Necklace
Located in Monte Carlo, MC
Presenting our exceptional "haute joaillerie" rigid choker necklace in elegant 18 karat yellow gold. Impeccably crafted, this necklace showcases a smooth and perfectly fitted design ...
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Platinum 9.99 Carat Rose Cut Diamond Necklace with Diamond Accents
By Cellini
Located in New York, NY
This platinum 17" necklace by Cellini Jewelers NYC, is composed of 13 round rose cut diamonds. Each diamond is bezel set with micro pave diamonds. The diamond chain is set entirely w...
Diamond, Platinum
Betony Vernon "Spikes Choker" Sterling Silver 925 and Rubies in Stock
By Betony Vernon
Located in Rome, IT
The "Spikes Choker" was designed in 1996 by Betony Vernon and manufactured in Sterling Silver 925 sheet metal with lost wax elements. This is the prototyp...
Ruby, Sterling Silver
Sold
H 0.5 in W 0.5 in D 0.5 in L 16 in
Vintage Ciner Gold Tone with Diamante Rounded Choker Necklace Circa 1980s
By Ciner
Located in New York, NY
Vintage Ciner Gold Tone with Diamante Rounded Choker Necklace. No more need be said about this beauty. It is a classic that has been made throughout the centuries. Always in style....
Mixed Metal
1980s Ciner Gold Plated Jewels of India Statement Necklace
By Ciner
Located in London, GB
Luxurious fine quality 'Jewels of India' necklace by Ciner. Length approx. 43cm, 17 inches, width 1.05cm, .4 inches, maximum width of centre design 1.4cm, .55 inches. This is a heav...
Gold Plate
Ciner Swarovski Crystal Gilt Cabochon Necklace New, never worn 1980s
By Ciner
Located in Wallkill, NY
Ciner Colored cabochons with Swarovski Crystal Necklace. Measures .64 / 12.73mm wide. Drops down to almost 18 inches. The matching earrings are listed on our store front as well, al...
Gilt Metal
Ciner Gilt Collar
By Ciner
Located in New York, NY
A gilt collar with interlocking links. Ciner.