Remembered fondly with a nod to his architecture education as the “Frank Lloyd Wright of Italian Fashion” and the “Architect of Fashion,” Milanese designer Gianfranco Ferré spent a lifetime creating handbags, dresses, jackets and other garments and accessories that were defined by meticulous tailoring and crisp geometry. Designing the iconic Lady Dior handbag after being named artistic director at Dior during the late 1980s is only one of Ferré’s impressive achievements in the fashion industry.
Ferré was born in Legnano and was raised by his mother and two aunts. He studied architecture at Milan Polytechnic but had a love for fashion, and made belts and other items for female friends in his classes. He graduated in 1969.
Ferré’s accessories caught the eye of Rosy Biffi, who operated boutiques in Milan with her sister, Adele. He was encouraged by Biffi to create clothing, and soon began creating jewelry and accessories for Christiane Bailly and Walter Albini. The latter is an unsung hero of 20th-century fashion, while Bailly was part of a small group of prominent young stylistes who helped build a sterling reputation for French ready-to-wear fashion during the 1960s. Ferré’s work was photographed by Italian Vogue, and he secured commissions from the likes of Karl Lagerfeld and Elio Fiorucci.
Ferré appreciated other cultures and drew inspiration from his travels abroad. His most influential trip — a years-long stint in India — saw him bringing bright colors and patterns to his evening dresses and day dresses. While there he created a collection for the Genoa-based San Giorgio Impermeabili. Ferrè designed for brands such as Les Grenouilles and Baila, and met with Italian businessman and clothing manufacturer Franco Mattioli, who would become an important collaborator.
In 1978, Ferré and Mattioli became equal business partners in establishing Ferré’s own label, for which he designed women’s ready-to-wear and menswear collections in Milan. In 1983, he was named the first professor of fashion at the Domus Academy.
While teaching, Ferré won the Occhio d’Oro — Italy’s award for best fashion designer — six times. In 1986, he introduced his first women’s fragrance, his first couture and fur collections, and a new line called Studio 00l. A few years later, Bernard Arnault, owner of Christian Dior, appointed him artistic director.
It was unexpected for an Italian to be given the job at Dior — one of fashion’s most coveted roles — as that position traditionally went to French designers. There, as Marc Bohan’s successor, Ferré created luxurious and striking gowns that drew on his architecture studies in their sculptural forms while celebrating the long history of the legendary house. He revisited the nipped-waist silhouettes of Dior’s postwar years, and his work dazzled onlookers and exuded femininity. Ferré won the Dé d'Or prize in 1989 for his first collection at the label.
In the early 1990s, Ferré designed the Lady Dior handbag (prior to its 1995 debut, it was called the Chouchou). The boxy top-handled accessory soared to immense popularity after French first lady Bernadette Chirac gave a version in black leather to Diana, Princess of Wales. Each bag, which was eventually named for the Princess, is made from 130 pieces of leather and worked on by seven Dior craftsmen who spend at least eight hours perfecting it.
On 1stDibs, find a collection of vintage Gianfranco Ferré Dior dresses, suits, coats and other items on 1stDibs.
$4,434
Dior bee necklace
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - (Made in France) Golden metal articulated necklace with rhinestones, representing bees. Jewelry from the early 1990s under the artistic direction of...
Gilt Metal
Dior Perfume 'shell' bracelet
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - (Made in France) Rare golden metal shell cuff bracelet with orange resin. Jewelry designed by the Goossens atelier for the house of Dior for the Dune perdume release in 1987. ...
Gilt Metal
Dior HAUTE COUTURE golden necklace 1993
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR -(Made in France) Golden metal choker necklace. 1993 Spring-Summer Haute Couture Collection under the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré. Condition: Very good condition Di...
Christian Dior bracelet by Gianfranco Ferré circa 1995
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - A ready-to-wear Collection circa 1995 under the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré. Golden metal chain bracelet with an impressive matching medallion ornamented with rhin...
Gilt Metal
"Starfish and Shells" necklace by Christian Dior, designed by Gianfranco Ferré
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - Ready-to-Wear Collection 1989 under the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré. Goossens Workshop. Long necklace in gold-tone metal featuring seashells, starfish, and coral, w...
Gilt Metal
Dior earrings by Gianfranco Ferré circa 1990
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - A ready-to-wear Collection circa 1990 under the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré. Golden metal openwork clip-on earrings. Made in France. Condition: Very good condition...
Gilt Metal
Dior silvery earrings 1994
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - Long silvery metal clip-on earrings ornamented with rhinestones and costume pearly drops. 1994 Spring-Summer Collection under the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré. Cond...
Christian Dior Silver Metal Cuff Bracelet, 1980's
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Dior -Silvered metal bracelet paved with rhinestones. Jewel of the 1980's Additional information: Dimensions: Height: 12 cm Width: 21.5 cm Condition: Very good condition Seller...
Vintage Christian Dior Statement Asymmetric Pearl Droplet Chain Necklace 1980s
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in Wilmslow, GB
A stunning Vintage Dior Pearl Chain Necklace. Featuring a chunk flattened curb chain embellished with baroque style glass pearls and gold orbs in an asymmetric arrangement. Edgy and timeless, a perfect piece of Dior and total jewel box hero. With archive pieces from her own Dior collection displayed in London's highly acclaimed Dior Designer of Dreams Exhibition, Jennifer understands what it’s like to be on the hunt for your perfect piece of Dior heritage. She has sourced and curated these strikingly beautiful collection of vintage Christian Dior jewels...
$1,166
Dior bee earrings
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - Golden metal clip-on earrings with rhinestoned bees. Jewelry from the early 1990s under the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré. Condition: Very good condition Dimensions...
Gilt Metal
Christian Dior Gold Metal Clip Earrings
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Dior - (Made in Germany) Gold metal clip earrings. Additional information: Dimensions: 4 W x 7 H cm Condition: Very good condition Seller Ref number: BO5
Gilt Metal
Mid-Century Yellow Gold Dog Charm Bracelet
Located in Stamford, CT
Vintage 1960's handmade triple spiral link 14k yellow gold charm bracelet with five detailed dog charms; retriever, setter, shepherd, co...
Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Italian 18 K Yellow Gold Charm Bracelet Blue Topaz an Lemon Citrines
Located in Zurich, Zollstrasse
A lovely and playful 18 K yellow Gold charm bracelet with Blue Topaz and Lemon Citrine. A romantic design with pastel gemstones. Made in Italy. Leng...
Citrine, Topaz, Blue Topaz, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Miriam Haskell Russian Gold Plated Pearl Citrine Glass Coin Charm Bracelet
By Miriam Haskell
Located in London, GB
Fabulous Miriam Haskell Russian gold plated charm bracelet, with pale gold faux pearls and faceted citrine glass, and Greek and French decorative coins. Measuring length 20.3 cm / 8 ...
Gold Plate
1970s 12k Gold Plated Charm Bracelet - 1 Of 20
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
Step back in time with this stunning 1970s 12k Gold Plated Charm Bracelet, a rare piece that is one of only 20 ever made. Each bracelet carries its unique personal charms, reflecting...
18 Karat Yellow Gold Hand-Carved Libra Zodiac Agate Cameo Pendant Necklace
By Vaibhav Dhadda
Located in Jaipur, Rajasthan
18 karat yellow gold hand-carved libra zodiac agate cameo pendant necklace. Presenting the enchanting Libra Zodiac Carving Cameo Pendant Necklace from our Zodiac Collection. This exquisite necklace features a meticulously crafted cameo made by an expert cameo engraver in Germany. The cameo is skilfully engraved on a relief of 100% natural agate rock sourced from Brazil, known for its captivating chalcedony variations. The pendant is elegantly set in 18K gold, meticulously crafted in our India workshop. At the center of the pendant, a stunning 20x15 mm oval Agate cameo takes the spotlight. Its black and white color combination creates a striking contrast, adding depth and allure to the overall design. The Libra Carving Cameo Pendant Necklace is a versatile piece that complements V-neck dresses of any color, allowing you to effortlessly express your personal style. It is equally suitable for regular wear, making it a perfect accessory to elevate your everyday outfits. This necklace showcases exceptional craftsmanship, combining the expertise of the German cameo...
Agate, Chalcedony, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Handcraft Sardinian Coral 18 Karat Yellow and White Gold Cuff Bracelet
By SCALA GIOIELLI
Located in Marcianise, IT
For any problems related to some materials contained in the items that do not allow shipping and require specific documents that require a particular period, please contact the selle...
Coral, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, White Gold
$3,240
W 0.87 in L 1.19 in
14 Karat Gold Butterfly Intaglio Multicolor Rainbow Baguette Circle Pendant
By Vaibhav Dhadda
Located in Jaipur, Rajasthan
14 karat yellow gold butterfly intaglio multicolor rainbow taper baguette circle pendant. "Butterfly in the garden pendant." This one of a kind designer piece is inspired by an attr...
Agate, Amethyst, Aquamarine, Citrine, Diamond, Garnet, Iolite, Peridot, ...
Vintage 18K White Gold 13mm South Sea Pearl & Diamond Choker Necklace
Located in Miami, FL
Cultured South Sea Pearls and Diamond Necklace in 18k white gold. Featuring a diamond-encrusted box closure and cone shaped links that connect the pearls. The pearls bear moderate bl...
Diamond, Pearl, South Sea Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
Vintage 1980s Tiffany & Co. Angela Cummings Opal & Jade Checkerboard Earrings
By Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
Finely crafted in 18K yellow gold with black Jade and Opal in a checkerboard pattern. Signed by Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co. Circa 1980s 1 inch diameter
Opal, Black Jade, 18k Gold
$4,900
W 1.19 in L 1.58 in
14K Yellow Gold Butterfly Intaglio Multicolor Rainbow Baguette Circle Pendant
By Vaibhav Dhadda
Located in Jaipur, Rajasthan
14 karat yellow gold butterfly intaglio multicolor rainbow taper baguette circle pendant necklace. "Butterfly in the garden pendant." This one of a kind designer piece is inspired b...
Tourmaline, Rhodolite, Topaz, Peridot, Iolite, Garnet, Diamond, Citrine,...
Vintage Roberto Coin Hoop Earrings
By Roberto Coin
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Designer: Roberto Coin Materials: 18K Rose & White Gold Gemstone: 0.35 cts round brilliant cut diamond Weight: 25.5 grams Measurement: 1" x 3/8" Hallmarks: 18k, Italy A pair of Roberto Coin hoop earrings from Cobra collection. Made of 18k rose gold, feature diamond. Serpent is one of Roberto Coin’s favorite creature. Roberto Coin Cobra collection includes snake bracelet, snake ring and earrings in different colors of gold. These Cobra earrings...
Diamond
GIA 12.43 Carat Ceylon Sapphire Diamond Platinum Pendant Necklace
Located in New York, NY
This gorgeous platinum pendant necklace is centered with a lovely GIA certified cushion cut Ceylon sapphire that weighs 12.43ct. The sapphire is accentuated by sparkling round cut di...
Diamond, Sapphire, White Gold, Platinum
Dior "Angelot" brooch, Autumn 1992
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - (Made in France) Gold-tone metal brooch depicting a cherub. Fall/Winter 1992 Ready-to-Wear Collection under the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré. Condition: Very good ...
Gilt Metal
Dior necklace / belt
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - (Made in France) Golden metal sautoir / belt with wide links tied with charms representing keys of G. Condition: Very good condition Dimensions: Length: from 77 cm to 82 cm ...
Gilt Metal
Christian Dior 'leaf' brooch
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - Openwork silvery metal brooch ornamented with rhinestones, representing a vine leaf. A Collection circa 1990 under the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré. Condition: Very...
Christian Dior arrow brooch
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - Silvery metal arrow brooch ornamented with square and round rhinestones. Point made of black resin. A Collection circa 1990 under the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré. ...
Christian Dior earrings
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - Silvery metal articulated hanging earrings topped with big rhinestones. Jewelry from the 1990s. Condition: Very good condition Dimensions: Length: 7.5 cm SKU:BO88
Christian Dior bracelet 1980s-90s
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - Openwork golden metal bracelet representing ivy leaves. A Collection from the late 1980s/early 1990s under the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré. Condition: Very good co...
Gilt Metal
Christian Dior bee brooch
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - (Made in France) Golden metal brooch with a rhinestoned bee. Condition: Very good condition Dimensions: Height: 3.6 cm SKU:BR58
Gilt Metal
Dior brooch Haute Couture Summer 1990
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - Golden metal pendant brooch with black bakelite and rhinestones. 1990 Spring-Summer Haute Couture Collection, under the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré. Condition: Ver...
Dior HAUTE COUTURE 1993 cuff bracelet
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - (Made in France) Golden metal cuff bracelet. 1993 Spring-Summer Haute Couture Collection under the artistic direction of Gianfranco Ferré. Condition: Very good condition Dim...
Dior Golden Metal Cross Pendant Brooch
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Dior - Golden metal cross brooch ornamented with crystal-colour and black rhinestones. Additional information: Condition: Very good condition Dimensions: 10 cm x 10 cm Seller Refer...
Dior articulated bracelet
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
DIOR - Golden metal articulated bracelet ornamented with colourful rhinestones. Condition: Very good condition Dimensions: Length: 19 cm - Width: 2.5 cm SKU:BRA67
Dior Golden Metal Rigid Bracelet
By Gianfranco Ferré for Christian Dior
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Dior -Gold metal rigid bracelet. Additional information: Dimensions: Circumference: 21 cm Height: 3 cm Condition: Very good condition Seller Ref number: BRA165
Gilt Metal