For Hermès, what began as a maker of leather equestrian goods for European noblemen would eventually grow into one of the most storied fashion labels in the world. In 1837, German-born French entrepreneur Thierry Hermès opened a saddle and harness purveyor in Paris. Gradually, the house extended into accessories and luggage for its riders, and today, in paying homage to its origins, the family-run luxury brand resurfaces horse motifs in everything from clothing and modernist jewelry to pillows and handbags.
The first top-handled bag ever produced by Hermès was the Haut à courroies, which made its debut in 1892. A tall bag secured with a folded leather flap (fastened with bridle-inspired straps), it was designed to transport riding boots and a harness.
As the world made the switch from horse to automobile, the bag adapted, becoming a multifunctional travel satchel instead of a designated saddlebag. Today, 120 years later, the HAC remains in Hermès’s line — and its distinctive flap and clasping straps have laid the groundwork for some of the house’s other iconic bags.
In the 1930s, Robert Dumas (son-in-law to Émile-Maurice Hermès, Thierry’s grandson) designed a smaller, trapezoidal take on the flap bag with a handle and two side straps. Later, actress Grace Kelly, then engaged to Prince Rainier of Monaco, is said to have used one of these bags to conceal her pregnancy during the 1950s. Because she was photographed constantly, the coverage catapulted her handbag to international popularity.
In 1977, Hermès officially renamed the model for her, and the Kelly bag was born. Each Kelly bag takes between 18 and 25 hours to produce, and its 680 hand stitches owe solely to one Hermès artisan.
Robert Dumas was also responsible for another one of the brand’s most iconic offerings: the launch of its first silk scarf on the occasion of Hermès’s 100th anniversary in 1937. Based on a woodblock designed by Dumas and printed on Chinese silk, the accessory was an immediate hit.
Today, vintage Hermès scarves, typically adorned in rich colors and elaborate patterns, serve many functions, just as they did back then. Well-heeled women wear it on their heads, around their necks and, in a genius piece of cross-promotion, tied to the straps of their Hermès bags. Kelly even once used one as a sling for her broken arm.
In 1981, Robert Dumas’s son Jean-Louis Dumas, then Hermès chairman, found himself sitting next to French actress and musician Jane Birkin on a plane, where she was complaining about finding a suitable carryall for the necessary accoutrements of motherhood. After the two travelers were properly introduced, Birkin helped design Jean-Louis’s most famous contribution to the Hermès canon: the Birkin bag, a roomy, square catchall with the HAC’s trademark leather flap top and the addition of a lock and key.
Owing to the brand’s legendary commitment to deft, handcrafted construction, the Birkin is an investment that is coveted by collectors everywhere.
While the Kelly and Birkin may be standouts, gracing the arms of everyone from royal heiresses to hip-hop stars in the past few decades, the handbags are but a small part of Hermès’s fashion offerings.
Since the 1920s, the brand has produced some of the most desirable leather goods in the world. There’s the Constance bag, a favorite of Jacqueline Kennedy, the recently relaunched 1970s-era Evelyne and, on the vintage market, a slew of designs dating back to the 1920s.
Good design never goes out of style. Find a variety of vintage Hermès handbags, day dresses, shoes and more on 1stDibs.
$4,900Sale Price|30% Off
Vintage Hermes 1963 Piano Black Leather
By Hermès
Located in Tel Aviv - Jaffa, IL
Vintage Hermes Flap Bag Shiny black Porosus Piano Black Leather 1963 Claf leather lining
Leather
Set of 6 cups of coffee
By Hermès
Located in Milano, Lombardia
Graphic symbol of the manufacture with “Winterling Markleuthem Bavaria” in green; “Made in France” in gold; “Hermès - Paris”. Have a band bordered by two ribbons with geometric motif...
Ceramic
Antique Italian Painted Hand Fan in a Glass Case
Located in Palm Beach, FL
Impressive 19th century Italian hand fan, remarkably preserved with silvered metal sticks and guards depicting ancient gods, palm trees and classical emblemes. The paper leaves are h...
Silver
Jessica Tapestry
Located in Atlanta, GA
Belgian made, jacquard woven with relief stitch. Fully lined with rod pocket for hanging. Cotton and rayon. Gold background shown and also available with grey and brown borders. Avai...
Tapestry
$3,000
H 12 in W 4.5 in D 4.5 in
Rare 19th C. Antique Silver Judaica Shabbat Candlesticks Polish Russian, Szekman
Located in Surfside, FL
An exceptional, fine and impressive antique Austro-Hungarian Antique Judaica Pair of Shabbos hallmarked silver candlesticks, 12" tall, 16 troy Dated 1895 Viennese or Austro Hungaria...
Silver
"Jeux Galants" (Gallant Players) Tapestry
By Jean-Honoré Fragonard
Located in Atlanta, GA
This is one of the famous scenes inspired by the gallant country compositions by Jean-Honoré Fragonard. This scene, full of wit, vitality and charm is representative of the tone of t...
Tapestry
Puppet (flat), round eyes, pink face Wayang Klitik, 19th C
Located in Milwaukee, WI
Indonesian shadow puppet/Wayang kulit, 19th century Wayang kulit, or Indonesian shadow puppets are typically carved out of water buffalo hide and wood. T...
Leather, Wood
$1,200
H 15.5 in W 9 in D 7 in
Tupuna Series #2, ancestors cloak, Maori ceramic sculptor Wi Taepa, leather ties
By Wi Taepa
Located in Santa Fe, NM
Tupuna Series #2, ancestors cloak, Maori ceramic sculptor Wi Taepa, leather ties unique ceramic sculpture depicting a cloak typically worn by Maori Wi Te Tau Pirika Taepa (born 1946,...
Ceramic, Leather
$65,000
H 36 in W 28 in D 30 in
EDWARD BOHLIN 1930s 40s MONTIE MONTANA SILVER ART PARADE SADDLE HOLLYWOOD
By Edward H. Bohlin
Located in San Antonio, TX
Edward Bohlin Saddle (1895-1980) Hollywood, California Artist / Saddle Maker One of Montie Montana's personal Bohlin Saddles. Movie Star, Trick Rider, Trick Roper Signed. Leather & Sterling Silver #4 "Montie Montana's" Personal Bohlin Parade Saddle Circa Late 1930s - Early 1940s. It is all Bohlin made and marked to include the saddle, the headstall and the breast collar. All made in Hollywood California. Montie Montana (born Owen Harlen Mickel; June 21, 1910 – May 20, 1998) was a rodeo trick rider and trick roper, actor, stuntman and cowboy inducted into the Pro Rodeo Hall of fame in 1994 Biography Montana was born in Wolf Point, Montana, in 1910. He was a perennial participant in the Tournament of Roses Parade until his death in Los Angeles, California, in 1998. Television viewers know him from more than 60 appearances, waving to the crowd from his silver saddle. During the first inauguration of Dwight D. Eisenhower as the 34th President of the United States on January 20, 1953, Montana lassoed the president after his swearing-in. He can be seen as a contestant on the May 7, 1959 television broadcast of You Bet Your Life, along with his horse Rex.Montana would go to elementary schools and perform with Rex. He was at Camellia Avenue Elementary School in North Hollywood, California, in 1959, and he would talk about the rubber horseshoes Rex would be fitted with so Rex would not slip on the asphalt playground while Montie was riding Rex. He performed rope tricks on and off of Rex, and would pass out photos of him and Rex to the students at the end of his show. In 1996, a Golden Palm Star on the Palm Springs, California, Walk of Stars was dedicated to him. He was buried at the Oakwood Memorial Park in Chatsworth, California Filmography Year Title Role Notes 1932 The Saddle Buster Rodeo Performer Uncredited 1934 Stand Up And Cheer! Rope Spinner Uncredited 1935 The Circle of Death Little Buffalo, alias Jim Little 1935 Border Vengeance Montie Montana, Trick Rider Uncredited 1935 Melody Trail Rodeo Rider Uncredited 1936 Comin’ Round the Mountain Roper Uncredited 1936 Gun Smoke 1939 The Kid from Texas Trick Rider Uncredited 1943 Riders of the Deadline Ranger Kelton 1944 Take it Big Show Performer Uncredited 1944 Man from Frisco Montana Uncredited 1949 Down Dakota Way Sheriff Holbrook 1952 The Story of Will Rogers Trick Roping Double for Will Rogers Jr. Uncredited 1954 The Boy from Oklahoma Roper Uncredited 1960 The Rifleman Stage Driver 1962 The Man who shot Liberty Valence Cowboy on Pinto Pony Uncredited 1963 Hud Cowboy Uncredited 1964 Cheyene Autumn Trooper Uncredited 1968 Arizona Bushwackers Stage Driver 1972 The Young Rounders (final film role) Honors 1989 Rodeo Hall of Fame of the National Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum 1990 Pendleton Round-Up and Happy Canyon Hall of Fame 1994 Pro Rodeo Hall of Fame 1997 Ellensburg Rodeo Hall of Fame 2011 Cheyenne Frontier Days Hall of Fame 2015 Montana Cowboy Hall of Fame & Western Heritage THE BOHLIN BRAND IS AS ICONIC AS THE FAMED WESTERN STARS that wore it. The late actor Richard Farnsworth sported a recognizable gold steer-head Bohlin buckle...
Silver
$285
H 10 in Dm 7.25 in
Rustic Pitcher Vase by Carstens Luxus, Fat Lava, Mid-Century Modern c. 1967
Located in Chicago, IL
This large ceramic vase from the Carstens Luxus line features a rugged volcanic lava finish in an earthy shade of garnet. Stamped in the base, and numbered, with original Carstens Lu...
Ceramic
$18,000
H 8.5 in W 12.5 in D 7 in
Jeff Koons Louis Vuitton Da Vinci bag (uniquely signed and dated by Jeff Koons)
By Jeff Koons
Located in New York, NY
Makes a unique and memorable gift! Jeff Koons Louis Vuitton Da Vinci bag (Hand Signed and dated by Jeff Koons), 2017 Limited Edition print with ...
Metal
$32,000
H 6 in W 4 in D 3 in
EDWARD BOHLIN STERLING & GOLD 1941 TOM MIX PATTERN SPURS WESTERN FINE ART
Located in San Antonio, TX
Edward Bohlin Saddle, Spurs, Chaps, Gun Belts (1895-1980) Hollywood, California Artist / Saddle Maker Medium: Sterling & Gold 1941 "Tom Mix Style Sp...
Silver
Mata Ortiz Style Black Ware Pottery
Located in Austin, TX
This fascinating piece of black ware pottery by Macario Ortiz is in the 20th century Mata Ortiz tradition. It measures 7.5" x 6.25" in height and diameter, respectively.M
Clay
$3,000
H 9 in W 9.5 in D 2.75 in
Limited Edition Balloon Dog Women's Shoulder Bag (Hand Signed by Jeff Koons) new
By Jeff Koons
Located in New York, NY
Jeff Koons Balloon Dog Women's Shoulder Bag (Hand Signed by Jeff Koons), 2014 100% Leather Shoulder Bag with silkscreened image of yellow balloon dog. Hand signed and dated by Jeff ...
Leather, Screen
Epsom is a stamped or embossed calf leather (as opposed to being a grained leather like Togo or Clemence, or a smooth leather like Swift or Box). It is lightweight and stiff; thus Epsom is known for its ability to retain structure over time. Epsom is the primary leather used to make Sellier Kelly and Birkin bags which feature outside stitching on its edges which result in a crisp and sharp line. Epsom is more rain-resistant than other calf leathers.
Select Hermes goods go on sale twice a year in Paris, but Birkins – being highly coveted–are not known to be found at the sale.