For Hermès, what began as a maker of leather equestrian goods for European noblemen would eventually grow into one of the most storied fashion labels in the world. In 1837, German-born French entrepreneur Thierry Hermès opened a saddle and harness purveyor in Paris. Gradually, the house extended into accessories and luggage for its riders, and today, in paying homage to its origins, the family-run luxury brand resurfaces horse motifs in everything from clothing and modernist jewelry to pillows and handbags.
The first top-handled bag ever produced by Hermès was the Haut à courroies, which made its debut in 1892. A tall bag secured with a folded leather flap (fastened with bridle-inspired straps), it was designed to transport riding boots and a harness.
As the world made the switch from horse to automobile, the bag adapted, becoming a multifunctional travel satchel instead of a designated saddlebag. Today, 120 years later, the HAC remains in Hermès’s line — and its distinctive flap and clasping straps have laid the groundwork for some of the house’s other iconic bags.
In the 1930s, Robert Dumas (son-in-law to Émile-Maurice Hermès, Thierry’s grandson) designed a smaller, trapezoidal take on the flap bag with a handle and two side straps. Later, actress Grace Kelly, then engaged to Prince Rainier of Monaco, is said to have used one of these bags to conceal her pregnancy during the 1950s. Because she was photographed constantly, the coverage catapulted her handbag to international popularity.
In 1977, Hermès officially renamed the model for her, and the Kelly bag was born. Each Kelly bag takes between 18 and 25 hours to produce, and its 680 hand stitches owe solely to one Hermès artisan.
Robert Dumas was also responsible for another one of the brand’s most iconic offerings: the launch of its first silk scarf on the occasion of Hermès’s 100th anniversary in 1937. Based on a woodblock designed by Dumas and printed on Chinese silk, the accessory was an immediate hit.
Today, vintage Hermès scarves, typically adorned in rich colors and elaborate patterns, serve many functions, just as they did back then. Well-heeled women wear it on their heads, around their necks and, in a genius piece of cross-promotion, tied to the straps of their Hermès bags. Kelly even once used one as a sling for her broken arm.
In 1981, Robert Dumas’s son Jean-Louis Dumas, then Hermès chairman, found himself sitting next to French actress and musician Jane Birkin on a plane, where she was complaining about finding a suitable carryall for the necessary accoutrements of motherhood. After the two travelers were properly introduced, Birkin helped design Jean-Louis’s most famous contribution to the Hermès canon: the Birkin bag, a roomy, square catchall with the HAC’s trademark leather flap top and the addition of a lock and key.
Owing to the brand’s legendary commitment to deft, handcrafted construction, the Birkin is an investment that is coveted by collectors everywhere.
While the Kelly and Birkin may be standouts, gracing the arms of everyone from royal heiresses to hip-hop stars in the past few decades, the handbags are but a small part of Hermès’s fashion offerings.
Since the 1920s, the brand has produced some of the most desirable leather goods in the world. There’s the Constance bag, a favorite of Jacqueline Kennedy, the recently relaunched 1970s-era Evelyne and, on the vintage market, a slew of designs dating back to the 1920s.
Good design never goes out of style. Find a variety of vintage Hermès handbags, day dresses, shoes and more on 1stDibs.
Hermès - Pair of Skycraper Design Candle Holders, France c1920´s
By Hermès
Located in Buenos Aires, Olivos
Hermès - Pair of Skycraper Design Candle Holders, France c1920´s These are striking candelabras with a distinctly architectural design. Its clean lines and geometric form evoke a s...
Brass
Pair of Cobra Candle Holders - France, Circa 1920s
Located in Isle Sur La Sorgue, Vaucluse
Exotic pair of brass candlesticks with intricate etched pattern and red enamel finish.
$1,595 / set
H 7.5 in W 4.5 in D 3 in
Antique French Art Deco Brass Serpent Form Candle Holders, Pair, Circa 1920s
Located in Elkhart, IN
A striking pair of antique French brass serpent candle holders dating to the 1920s, sculpted with elegantly coiled bodies that rise into finely ...
Brass
$695Sale Price / set|76% Off
H 3.25 in Dm 9 in
Pair of Daum Star Crystal Candle Holder , 1970s , France
By Daum
Located in St- Leonard, Quebec
Mouth blowed star shaped colorless prime quality lead crystal candle holder from Daum, France. Measure 9 inches at widest point by 3.25 i...
Crystal
Pair of French Biot Bubble Glass Hurricane Candle Holders
By Biot
Located in LA CIOTAT, FR
This elegant pair of French Biot glass hurricane candle holders exemplifies the enduring tradition of glassmaking from the village of Biot, located in the South of France. Mouth-blow...
Glass, Blown Glass
Candle holder WMF silvered germany around 1920s
By WMF Württembergische Metallwarenfabrik
Located in Wien, Au
Candle holder WMF silvered germany around 1920s Brass silvered Original condition
Brass
Pair of Ribbed Crystal Candle Holders
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Ribbed crystal candle holders. The pair may any table elegant! also a fine addition to the mantle. The pair are of good weight and have a nice reflectiv...
Crystal
Pair of 1950s French Candle Holders
Located in Saint-Ouen, FR
Pair of 1950 candle holders on silver plated metal with. Great vintage condition for this elegant pair of candle holders.
Metal
Pair of brutalist wrought iron candle holders, France 1950s
By Atelier Marolles
Located in STRASBOURG, FR
Pair of brutalist wrought iron candle holders circa 1950, in the style of Atelier Marolles. Heavy pieces with a beautiful patina. Both are in great condition, showing minimal signs...
Wrought Iron
$319 / set
H 9.06 in W 3.55 in D 3.55 in
French Pair Pair of Candle holder In blue Ceramic France 1970s
Located in Auribeau sur Siagne, FR
French Pair Pair of Candle holder In blue Ceramic France 1970s
Ceramic
$2,483 / set
H 9.06 in W 3.75 in D 4.14 in
Pair of Art Deco Opalescent Glass Nude Female Candle Holders 1920's
By Lalique
Located in Reading, Berkshire
Pair of Lalique Style Art Deco Opalescent Glass Nude Female Candle Holders On A Square Plinth Base, Unsigned Provenance : The Mavis and John Ware...
Opaline Glass
$2,840 / set
H 12.21 in W 19.69 in D 5.12 in
Pair of Copper-Coloured Stepped Candle Holders, France, circa 1920s
Located in Isle Sur La Sorgue, Vaucluse
Chic pair of burnished copper-coloured metal candle holders with a stepped, minimalist design and elegant etched decor.
Copper
Pair of Gilt Bronze Candle Holders with Etching Design
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Pair of Gilt Bronze candlesticks. The pair are very tall, at 19.5" - the top is a square plate (4"x4") for a pillar candle, or to hold another creative idea. Each stick weights ne...
Gold, Bronze, Gold Leaf
Hermès - Pair of Skycraper Design Candle Holders, France c1920´s
By Hermès
Located in Buenos Aires, Olivos
Hermès - Pair of Skycraper Design Candle Holders, France c1920´s These are striking candelabras with a distinctly architectural design. Its clean lines and geometric form evoke a s...
Brass
Epsom is a stamped or embossed calf leather (as opposed to being a grained leather like Togo or Clemence, or a smooth leather like Swift or Box). It is lightweight and stiff; thus Epsom is known for its ability to retain structure over time. Epsom is the primary leather used to make Sellier Kelly and Birkin bags which feature outside stitching on its edges which result in a crisp and sharp line. Epsom is more rain-resistant than other calf leathers.