Fulco di Verdura (1898–1978) is not exactly a household name, except for those who know a thing or two about highly original, often eccentric handcrafted earrings and bracelets, and, even more so, for those fortunate enough to own some. In that exclusive group, Verdura is regarded as the most gifted and coveted designer of his time.
Verdura was born in Sicily in 1898, the scion of a noble family related to the Lampedusas. (His cousin, Giuseppe di Lampedusa, wrote the great Italian saga The Leopard). His life was charmed from birth. Raised in his family’s villa, he grew up during a time when Sicily, and Palermo in particular, were meccas for well-born and highly cultured European travelers.
A bona fide duke with no clear ambitions but creative leanings aplenty (he could draw and paint), the young Verdura was part of the wandering social circuit — the so-called beau monde — that went from capital to capital, resort to resort.
Verdura, though small in stature, had that indefinable quality called charm. As a result, he was the life of every party he attended. When he finally started designing jewelry under Coco Chanel in the late 1920s, many of his friends became his clients (or received the pieces as gifts).
Elsa Maxwell took him under her ample wing when she was hired to do public relations for the Lido in Venice and introduced him to the local and visiting cognoscenti. Chanel, whom he met in Venice, hired him to work in the textiles division of her fashion house. But it was his flair for jewelry that soon caught Coco’s eye. Eventually, he rose to become her personal designer of fine jewelry.
In 2002’s Verdura: The Life and Work of a Master Jeweler (Thames & Hudson), Vanity Fair’s Amy Fine Collins describes the sensation of wearing pieces by Verdura, who drew inspiration from nature for his signature gem-studded seashell brooches and honeybee earrings.
“They were ingeniously calculated to flatter the wearer,” writes Collins. “Earrings undulated to complement the convolutions of an earlobe, rings seductively followed the phalanges of a finger, and necklaces gracefully traced the anatomy of the throat.”
In 1934, Verdura left Chanel and together with two friends, aspiring actress Princess Natalia Pavlovna Paley and Baron Nicholas de Gunzburg, moved to the U.S. After several stops, he found a job through Diana Vreeland in Hollywood with Paul Flato, then the “jeweler to the stars.” Soon he was signing his work and helping Flato cultivate the crème de la creme of the silver screen — those both on it and behind it.
Verdura left Los Angeles for New York and opened his own salon, first on Fifth Avenue in 1939, just as World War II was beginning in Europe. His backers were Vincent Astor and Cole Porter, for whom he made bejeweled boxes and cigarette cases — gifts from Porter’s wife, Linda — to commemorate the opening nights of several musicals.
Verdura began to expand both his repertoire — he became much more daring and flamboyant — and his clientele. The Duchess of Windsor, Daisy Fellowes, Greta Garbo and others routinely gave him commissions. In 1941, Verdura collaborated on a collection of six pieces with Salvador Dalí to accompany a Dalí exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art. Verdura retired in 1972 and left the care of the company to his partner, Joseph Alfano. He later moved to London, where he died in 1978 at the age of 79.
Among the most prized pieces on display in a 2014 Verdura jewelry exhibition in New York were Greta Garbo’s curb-link bracelet watch, which Verdura designed for her in 1939; Coco Chanel’s pair of Maltese Cross cuff bracelets (she wore one on each wrist); and Diana Vreeland’s duo of Byzantine brooches.
Find a range of vintage Verdura jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Verdura 1950's Lapis Diamond Platinum 18K Gold Vintage Frog On A Leaf Brooch
By Verdura
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as a dimensional frog perched upon a furling lily pad leaf Frog is made of carved lapis lazuli and measures 25.0 x 27.0 mm Opaque ultramarine blue in color with strong gold ...
Diamond, Lapis Lazuli, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
$35,000
Verdura Hedgehog Desk Object
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
Verdura Hedgehog Desk Object A carved obsidian hedgehog with diamond eyes, resting on a fluorite base, decorated with yellow gold branches, yellow diamond-set acorns, and an amethys...
Amethyst, Yellow Diamond, Fluorite, 18k Gold
Verdura Rose Gold Classic Watch
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
Classic and elegant Verdura watch, in 18k rose gold, sleek rectangular case, measuring 24mm excluding the crown x 40mm, with brownish-burgundy non brande...
Rose Gold
Verdura Caged Amethyst 18 Karat Yellow Gold Earrings Clip-on
By Verdura
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A bold pair of signed Verdura ear clips from the house’s celebrated Caged collection. Each earring features a single large, smoothly polished purple amethyst enclosed within a sculptural framework of polished 18-karat yellow gold. The richly colored, high-domed amethysts contrast beautifully with the warm gold cage, creating a strong architectural silhouette with unmistakable Verdura character. Substantial yet elegant, the ear clips make a distinctive statement from day to evening. Verdura’s Caged...
Amethyst, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Verdura Caged Turquoise 18 Karat Yellow Gold Earrings Clip-on
By Verdura
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A striking pair of signed Verdura ear clips from the house’s iconic Caged collection, dating to the 1990s. Each earring features a single large, smoo...
Turquoise, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Verdura Vintage 84.70 Grams Onyx 18 Karat Yellow Gold Gemstone Bracelet
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
Designer: Verdura Title: Verdura 18 Karat Yellow Gold Gemstone Bracelet Style: Gemstone Metal: 18 Karat Yellow Gold Size: 10 Dimension: 8 inch Weight: 84.7 Grams Condit...
Onyx, 18k Gold
Vintage 1960s Verdura Coral and Gold Earrings
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
Finely crafted in 18k yellow gold with Coral. Signed by Verdura 1 1/4 x 3/4 inches
Coral, 18k Gold
Verdura Vintage Pineapple Diamond Platinum & Yellow Gold Earrings
By Verdura
Located in Southampton, PA
Platinum and 18k Yellow Gold Diamond Vintage Pineapple Earrings by Verdura. Crafted in 18k yellow gold and platinum, Verdura’s pineapple earrings shimmer with pavé-set round and bag...
Diamond, Yellow Gold, Platinum
Verdura 18k Yellow Gold Floral Clip On Earrings W/Box
By Verdura
Located in Great Neck Plaza, NY
These stunning earrings, crafted in 2000, are a perfect blend of elegance and sophistication. Made from high-quality 18k gold, they feature a captivating twisted design that adds a u...
18k Gold
Vintage Verdura Citrine Green Tourmaline Yellow Gold Earrings
By Verdura
Located in Southampton, PA
18k Yellow Gold citrine and green tourmaline vintage earrings by Verdura. With 18 cabochon green Tourmalines 4mmx6mm 2 cabochon Citrines 8.5mm x 11mm These earrings are made for non...
Citrine, Tourmaline, Yellow Gold
$23,000
Verdura Ray Gold Brooch
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
Verdura "Ray" gold brooch 18 karat yellow gold; marked Verdura, 750, Made in Italy Size: width 2.38 inches, length 2.38 inches Total weight: 52.8 grams
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Verdura Exclusive Worldwide Gold & Enamel Oval Cufflinks
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
- Good condition - 18k Yellow Gold - Dimension: 15x17.5mm - Blue, yellow enamel, highlighted by gold borders - Weight: 17.5gr - Original Retail: $8,500
Gold, Enamel
Verdura Sterling Silver Bamboo Lipstick Brush #25958
By Verdura
Located in Washington Depot, CT
Verdura Sterling Silver Bamboo Lipstick Brush- A refined piece from Verdura's silver collection, this sterling travel lip brush brings the house's signature bamboo form into a funct...
Sterling Silver
Verdura 18k Yellow Gold Cachalong Opal Shell Ear Clips Gorgeous Condition!
By Verdura
Located in Sherman Oaks, CA
Gorgeous Shell Earrings by Verdura Feature Yellow Gold Backs and Detailing in Cachalong Opal Carved Shell Appx Dimensions 1 1/16" x 7/8" Total Mass = 26.7 grams Featured in Doyle Fin...
Opal, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Verdura Twisted Rope Openwork Wide Yellow Gold Link Bracelet
By Verdura
Located in Southampton, PA
18k Yellow Gold Twisted Rope Openwork Wide Link Bracelet by Verdura. Details: Weight: 105.9 grams Width: 1 1/4" Length: 7.5" Stamped Hallmarks: VERDURA 750 *Free Shipping within th...
Yellow Gold
Verdura crossover diamond sided ring 2.80 euro diamond
By Verdura
Located in Great Neck Plaza, NY
This exquisite solitaire ring features a stunning 2.8-carat Old European-cut diamond that radiates a pristine white hue. The diamond boasts a clarity grade of VS1, ensuring its remar...
Diamond, Platinum
Verdura Citrine & Diamond Dangle Earrings
By Verdura
Located in West Palm Beach, FL
Delicately hand-crafted in 18 karat yellow and white gold by the renowned, effortlessly chic house of Verdura, these elegant earrings embody timeless sophistication and refined artis...
Citrine, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Verdura Garnet and Diamond "Maltese Cross" Brooch
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
Verdura garnet and diamond "maltese cross" brooch in 18k yellow gold. The brooch is set with 30 round and oval faceted cut garnets weighing total of approximately 25- 30ct, and 30 r...
Diamond, Garnet, 18k Gold
Verdura 18K Yellow and Platinum Diamond Pineapple Earrings
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
18K yellow gold and platinum diamond pineapple clip-on earrings. Set with 60 round diamonds approx 2.50 cts and 16 baguette diamonds approx 0.50ct, approx E color and VS clarity. Mea...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Platinum