Also called Aesthetic period jewelry, historians have determined that antique late Victorian jewelry and watches are representative of an era that lasted from about 1880 until 1901 and ushered in the Belle Époque.
Queen Victoria wore her heart on her sleeve, and her emotions were reflected in her fashion and in what we now call Victorian jewelry. By about 1880, Queen Victoria and her constituents were ready to look to the future. The dark skies were parting and fashion was changing. There was also a major shift in industry.
While in the beginning of Queen Victoria’s reign the focus was on manufacturing, toward the later years there was a renewed interest and appreciation of the handmade. The late Victorian period (1880–1901) was referred to as the Aesthetic period and coincided with these changing tastes.
The Aesthetic Movement, concerned with “art for art’s sake,” began in Britain around the 1870s and became recognized by designers and artists worldwide, eventually resulting in the Arts and Crafts movement (1880s–1920s).
Stylistically, jewelry of this time period did not resemble its earlier Victorian counterparts, in fact it was in complete opposition to what preceded it. Gone were the mourning jewelry, heavy brooches and large necklaces. Late Victorian-era jewelry was smaller, lighter and more dainty. Women still layered pieces, though, and favored smaller scatter pins. Jewelry also became an evening accessory and not so visible during the day.
Women were starting to actively participate in sporting events (socially, of course, not professionally), so athletic motifs showed up on their accessories. Lockets and heart pendants remained popular, but the REGARD or DEAREST rings of the early Victorian period were replaced by Mizpah pieces, which means “the Lord watches over me” in Hebrew. These items were exchanged between two people to symbolize a close bond.
Diamonds came into fashion, and semiprecious gems such as amethysts and opals became prevalent, too. Using gemstones for their natural beauty and not their worth was something that jewelers of the Aesthetics movement felt passionate about, and this ideology would really become relevant in Art Nouveau jewelry.
The Brits still looked to their monarchs to dictate the latest trends. Queen Victoria’s daughter-in-law Alexandra famously wore a dog-collar necklace, also known as a collier de chien, made up of multiple strands of pearls, to hide a scar. This style of necklace quickly rose to prominence. Toward the end of the 19th century, solitaire rings were also becoming fashionable thanks to Tiffany & Co.’s advent of the six-prong diamond setting in 1886. Platinum was starting to be used in jewelry production as well. Edwardian and, afterward, Art Deco engagement rings that followed in the wake of Queen Victoria’s death in 1901 would be characterized by complex geometric designs and platinum settings.
Women were the biggest influences on jewelry. They joined the workforce, fought for their independence and overall began to lead a much more active lifestyle. Jewelry had to become comfortable and serve multiple purposes. While in the United States, the Gibson Girls lifestyle was emulated by young women, and starlets became trendsetters.
Finally, the international expositions made the world seem like a much smaller place and jewelry from North Africa and India captured people’s attention, appealing to those who already favored Revival jewelry from the Etruscans to the Romans.
Find antique late Victorian jewelry and watches on 1stDibs.
Antique 14K Yellow Gold Bracelet with Diamond c. 1890–1905
Located in Berlin, DE
This exceptional bracelet dates from around 1890–1905 and masterfully blends the intricate elegance of the late Victorian era with the organic motifs of emerging Art Nouveau design. ...
Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
$16,331Sale Price|20% Off
Old Diamonds 18 Kt Yellow Gold and Ruby Bracelet
Located in Marcianise, Marcianise (CE)
A must of a design for this clamper bracelet, with a snake shape. The snake body is composed of black enamel that's alternating with the 18 Kt yellow gold carved design, and on top o...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Bracelet circa 1960 in 18 Kt Yellow Gold Diamonds and Ruby
Located in Paris, FR
Bracelet circa 1960 in hammered Satin-brushed 18-karat yellow Gold and Ruby, flexible articulated Snake Link with geometric patterns including Four V-shaped Patterns setting twelve R...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
French 1940s 18 Karat Yellow Gold Reversible Tank Bracelet
Located in Poitiers, FR
Bracelet in 18 karat yellow gold, eagle head hallmark. Tank gold bracelet, it consists of knot-shaped patterns in a decor of lines and gold pearls, ...
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
David Webb 18K Yellow Gold Green Emerald Cabochon, Ruby and Diamond Bracelet
By David Webb
Located in New York, NY
This is a spectacular and exciting David Webb 18K Yellow Gold gemstone bracelet with diamonds. The gemstones include emeralds, sapphires,...
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
J Rossi 18 Karat Yellow Gold Ruby and Sapphire Bracelet
Located in Honolulu, HI
Vintage J. Rossi wide Bracelet in 18K Yellow Gold with Rubies and blue Sapphires in a beautiful floral botanical Design. This gorgeous bracelet features masterfully carved blue Sapph...
Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Gold, Yellow Gold
18K Yellow Gold Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire Diamond Bracelet
By VR Jewels
Located in New York, NY
The wearing of charms may have begun as a form of amulet or talisman to ward off evil spirits or bad luck. This multi gemstone bracelet has a square cut gemstone and diamonds in 18K ...
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Channel Diamond 1.30 Carat Yellow Gold 14Kt Bracelet
Located in Laguna Hills, CA
Channel Diamond Bracelet 14 karat yellow gold measuring 10.74 mm wide. The berth width of the diamonds are 55.40 mm and compasses the top portion of the bracelet. The height is 5.07 ...
Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Emerald Sapphire Ruby and Diamond Bracelet in 18k Yellow Gold
Located in Honolulu, HI
Bracelet Specifications: Metal: 18k Yellow Gold Gemstones: 2 red rubies, 2 green emeralds and 2 blue sapphires Gemstones Total Carat Weight: ~0.60 carats Diamond Count: 5 Diamon...
Ruby, Diamond, Emerald, Sapphire, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Antique 14K Gold Floral Engraved Bangle Bracelet, 1890-1910
Located in Rotterdam, NL
This beautiful antique bangle bracelet is crafted in 14 karat yellow gold and finely engraved with graceful floral and foliate motifs. The design features scrolling leaves and delica...
14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold
Vintage multi-strand bracelet in 18 kt. yellow gold with rubies
Located in Abano Terme, IT
Multi-strand bracelet in 18 kt. yellow gold 750/00 handcrafted in Italy in the 1960s. Above the clasp features a distinctive flower work with three rubies. Used, but in excellent, li...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique 14K Gold Lapis Lazuli and Pearl Clamper Bracelet, 19th Century
Located in Rotterdam, NL
This antique bracelet, crafted in 14k gold, is a beautiful example of late 19th-century jewelry design, dating back to circa 1880. The bracelet showcases a harmonious blend of luxuri...
Lapis Lazuli, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold
18K Yellow Gold Ruby and Diamond Bypass Bracelet, Stamped 750
Located in Great Neck Plaza, NY
A bold statement of elegance, this 18K yellow gold bypass bracelet features alternating rows of channel-set rubies and brilliant-cut diamonds, creating a striking striped pattern. Th...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
$39,600Sale Price|20% Off
W 1.1 in L 7.75 in
Boucheron 1937 Paris Art Deco Bracelet 18Kt Gold and 5.44 Ctw Diamonds & Rubies
By Boucheron
Located in Miami, FL
A bracelet designed by Boucheron. Extremely rare and beautiful bracelet, created during the art deco period in Paris France by the famous jewelry house of Boucheron, back in the 1937. The bracelet is one of a kind and a highly collectible piece, published in the Gilles Neret book. It was carefully crafted in solid yellow gold of 18 karats with high polished finish and platinum parts for the setting of the diamonds. The bracelet has been designed with retro-modernist patterns and is embellished with a gorgeous selection of fifty earth mined, natural gemstones such: Burmese translucent rubies and white colorless diamonds. It is fitted with a concealed hinged folded snap lock. Diamonds: Mount in flush pave settings, with 28 old European round cut diamonds with a total weight of 2.80 carats, white colorless E/F color, VS clarity. Rubies: Mount in a channel setting, with 22 calibrated French faceted cut of natural vivid red rubies with a combined weight of 2.64 carats. The rubies are gems quality, not heated and Burmese origin. Weight: 66.85 Grams, (42.85 Dwt). Measurements: 7.75 Inches (19.69 Cm) and a width of 28 mm (1.10 Inch). Hallmarks: Stamped several times with French national marks such: the eagle head and the dog head for the assay and warranty of the 18kt gold and the platinum respectively and signed in full, "BOUCHERON PARIS". Boucheron Frédéric Boucheron founded the Maison Boucheron in 1858. To this day, the Boucheron jewelry house is known for its intricate, free spirited style. Boucheron's designs are always creative and display outstanding French craftsmanship and characterful stones. He quickly became well known for the exceptional quality of his precious stones. Around 1880, he was the first modern jeweler bold enough to engrave diamonds with flowers...
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
Bracelet Napoléon III en or 18 carats, saphir et diamants
Located in PARIS, FR
Bracelet Napoléon III en or jaune 18 carats (750 millièmes), serti d'un saphir taille coussin de 0,35 carat et ciselé de motifs de fleurs et d'étoiles agrémentés de diamant taille rose.
Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold
Late Victorian Pink Blue Sapphire Turquoise Pearl Diamond 18K Rose Gold Bracelet
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
One Late Victorian Pink Blue Sapphire Turquoise Pearl Diamond 18K Rose Gold Bracelet. Featuring one button pearl and two oval mixed cut pink sapphires with a total weight of approxim...
Diamond, Pearl, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Turquoise, Gold,...
Antique Pearl Rose Cut Diamond 14 Karat Gold Black Enamel Bracelet
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
One Antique Pearl Rose Cut Diamond Gold Black Enamel Bracelet. Featuring one pearl. Accented by 12 rose cut diamonds with a total weight of approximately 0.75 carat, graded I color, ...
Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver, Enamel
Antique Victorian 18 Karat Yellow Gold Rosecut Diamond Bangle Bracelet
Located in New York, NY
A beautiful antique Victorian 18k yellow gold bracelet set with rosecut diamonds, circa 1880. The 28 rosecut diamonds are set in silver topped gold creating a contrast in colors. The...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Silver
Late Victorian Two-Row Ruby and Diamond Bangle
Located in London, GB
A late Victorian two-row ruby and diamond bangle, the bangle set with two rows of alternately-set circular old-cut rubies and diamonds, the rubies estimated to weigh a total of 0.85 ...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Set of Three Gem-Set Continental Bangles
Located in London, GB
A late Victorian set of gem-set bangles, consisting of three bangles, one set with old-cut diamonds alternating with round faceted rubies, the second set with old-cut diamonds altern...
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 14k Gold
Silver and Gold and Old Cut Diamond Victorian Bangle
Located in Amsterdam, NL
An 18 carat gold diamond bangle consisting of two bands each centering three old cut diamonds, the middle ons slightly bigger on both ends a navette shaped element set with rose cut ...
White Diamond, 18k Gold, Sterling Silver
Victorian Ceylon Sapphire Diamonds Gold Bracelet Bangle
Located in London, GB
This beautiful bangle is set with a Ceylon sapphire with no indication of heating. This stunning blue sapphire is around 3.60ct. It is surrounded with 16 old mine cut diamonds. The s...
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold
Victorian Ruby Gold Bangle Bracelet
Located in Lexington, KY
This is a Victorian 14 karat yellow gold bangle bracelet. It has a lions head with a ruby eye. The ruby is bright and lively and there is a lovely patina over the piece that only tim...
Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold