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Late Victorian Objets d'Art and Vertu

LATE VICTORIAN STYLE

Also called Aesthetic period jewelry, historians have determined that antique late Victorian jewelry and watches are representative of an era that lasted from about 1880 until 1901 and ushered in the Belle Époque.

Queen Victoria wore her heart on her sleeve, and her emotions were reflected in her fashion and in what we now call Victorian jewelry. By about 1880, Queen Victoria and her constituents were ready to look to the future. The dark skies were parting and fashion was changing. There was also a major shift in industry.

While in the beginning of Queen Victoria’s reign the focus was on manufacturing, toward the later years there was a renewed interest and appreciation of the handmade. The late Victorian period (1880–1901) was referred to as the Aesthetic period and coincided with these changing tastes.

The Aesthetic Movement, concerned with “art for art’s sake,” began in Britain around the 1870s and became recognized by designers and artists worldwide, eventually resulting in the Arts and Crafts movement (1880s–1920s).

Stylistically, jewelry of this time period did not resemble its earlier Victorian counterparts, in fact it was in complete opposition to what preceded it. Gone were the mourning jewelry, heavy brooches and large necklaces. Late Victorian-era jewelry was smaller, lighter and more dainty. Women still layered pieces, though, and favored smaller scatter pins. Jewelry also became an evening accessory and not so visible during the day.

Women were starting to actively participate in sporting events (socially, of course, not professionally), so athletic motifs showed up on their accessories. Lockets and heart pendants remained popular, but the REGARD or DEAREST rings of the early Victorian period were replaced by Mizpah pieces, which means “the Lord watches over me” in Hebrew. These items were exchanged between two people to symbolize a close bond.

Diamonds came into fashion, and semiprecious gems such as amethysts and opals became prevalent, too. Using gemstones for their natural beauty and not their worth was something that jewelers of the Aesthetics movement felt passionate about, and this ideology would really become relevant in Art Nouveau jewelry.

The Brits still looked to their monarchs to dictate the latest trends. Queen Victoria’s daughter-in-law Alexandra famously wore a dog-collar necklace, also known as a collier de chien, made up of multiple strands of pearls, to hide a scar. This style of necklace quickly rose to prominence. Toward the end of the 19th century, solitaire rings were also becoming fashionable thanks to Tiffany & Co.’s advent of the six-prong diamond setting in 1886. Platinum was starting to be used in jewelry production as well. Edwardian and, afterward, Art Deco engagement rings that followed in the wake of Queen Victoria’s death in 1901 would be characterized by complex geometric designs and platinum settings.

Women were the biggest influences on jewelry. They joined the workforce, fought for their independence and overall began to lead a much more active lifestyle. Jewelry had to become comfortable and serve multiple purposes. While in the United States, the Gibson Girls lifestyle was emulated by young women, and starlets became trendsetters.

Finally, the international expositions made the world seem like a much smaller place and jewelry from North Africa and India captured people’s attention, appealing to those who already favored Revival jewelry from the Etruscans to the Romans.

Find antique late Victorian jewelry and watches on 1stDibs.

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Style: Late Victorian
Tiffany & Co. 14K Yellow Gold Mesh Coin Purse #23779
Tiffany & Co. 14K Yellow Gold Mesh Coin Purse #23779

Tiffany & Co. 14K Yellow Gold Mesh Coin Purse #23779

By Tiffany & Co.

Located in Washington Depot, CT

Tiffany & Co. 14K Yellow Gold Mesh Coin Purse- Theis elegant Tiffany & Co. 14K yellow gold mesh purse features a beautifully detailed floral filigree ...

Category

20th Century Late Victorian Objets d'Art and Vertu

Materials

14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique 1900 Silver Gilt Pot
Antique 1900 Silver Gilt Pot

Antique 1900 Silver Gilt Pot

Located in London, GB

A simple and elegant antique silver pot featuring a soft domed lid and a warm gilt interior. The design is minimal yet timeless, allowing the craftsmanship to speak for itself. Altho...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary English Late Victorian Objets d'Art and Vertu

Materials

Sterling Silver

Victorian Trembler Spring Hat Pin w Amethyst Molded Glass Crystal - 7", ca 1900
Victorian Trembler Spring Hat Pin w Amethyst Molded Glass Crystal - 7", ca 1900

Victorian Trembler Spring Hat Pin w Amethyst Molded Glass Crystal - 7", ca 1900

Located in Tucson, AZ

A necessity during the Victorian Era, hat pins not only balanced precarious hats atop piles of hair but also moonlighted as weapons against overzealous gentlemen. Though teetering ha...

Category

Early 1900s Unknown Antique Late Victorian Objets d'Art and Vertu

Materials

Crystal, Brass

Antique Victorian 14K Gold Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Dog Portrait Stickpin
Antique Victorian 14K Gold Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Dog Portrait Stickpin

Antique Victorian 14K Gold Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Dog Portrait Stickpin

Located in Rotterdam, NL

This Victorian stickpin features a finely detailed reverse intaglio crystal depicting a hunting dog, beautifully hand-painted and carved in reverse beneath a domed crystal cabochon. ...

Category

Late 19th Century European Antique Late Victorian Objets d'Art and Vertu

Materials

Crystal, 14k Gold, Gold

A late Victorian diamond-set tiara
A late Victorian diamond-set tiara

A late Victorian diamond-set tiara

Located in London, GB

A late Victorian diamond-set tiara, the five openwork foliate garland design sections graduating in size from the centre, each featuring three old-European cut diamonds within a pear...

Category

1890s Unknown Antique Late Victorian Objets d'Art and Vertu

Materials

Diamond, Yellow Gold, Silver

Antique Victorian Cameo Shell Princess
Antique Victorian Cameo Shell Princess

Antique Victorian Cameo Shell Princess

Located in Chesterland, OH

This Victorian unmounted Carnelian shell cameo depicting the right-facing profile of the Princess is very well carved in exquisite detail. The surface is as crisp as the day it was crafted, impressive for a shell cameo from the late Victorian era. This would date back to around the 1860s-1890s. The carving on this cameo is excellent and well-detailed, with good relief. This was carved by an excellent carver, as were most Victorian cameos. This loose cameo...

Category

Late 19th Century English Antique Late Victorian Objets d'Art and Vertu

Antique Victorian 1837 Sterling Silver Glass Jewellery Box
Antique Victorian 1837 Sterling Silver Glass Jewellery Box

Antique Victorian 1837 Sterling Silver Glass Jewellery Box

Located in London, GB

This rare and beautifully crafted antique jewellery box dates to the very start of Queen Victoria’s reign in 1837. The domed lid is made of sterling silver, intricately adorned with ...

Category

20th Century English Late Victorian Objets d'Art and Vertu

Materials

Sterling Silver

Antique Enamel Erotic Vesta Case, French, Late 19th Century
Antique Enamel Erotic Vesta Case, French, Late 19th Century

Antique Enamel Erotic Vesta Case, French, Late 19th Century

Located in Rotterdam, NL

A rare and delightful late 19th-century gilt-brass vesta case with hand-painted enamel scenes, in the tradition of playful Continental "novelty" smoking accessories. The exterior lid depicts a gentleman seated on a riverbank fishing, while a lady stands nearby. Below, a hand-painted French inscription reads: “Entagaînant le goujon jéveux”, which loosely translates as “Catching the gudgeon I desire.” In French slang of the period, “gudgeon” (goujon) was both a small fish and a playful metaphor for a naïve “catch,” giving the scene a humorous double meaning. Opening the case reveals a hidden risqué scene: the same couple, but with the lady having taken a tumble, her skirts up and legs in the air, much to the surprise of her companion. The interior enamel is inscribed in French “Les surprises de Suzon” (“Suzon’s surprises”), a humorous and cheeky detail typical of these whimsical 19th-century objets de vertu. The case is of gilt brass with a ribbed striking surface to the base and retains its original hinged construction. The enamel is beautifully executed in vivid colors and remains in very good condition for its age, with only minor wear consistent with use. Dimensions: Approx. Length 4.6 cm, Width 3,7 cm, Height 1.1 cm. Weight: 39 grams Origin: France, circa 1880–1900 Materials: Gilt brass, enamel Condition: Very good antique condition with light surface wear; enamels intact and vibrant. This piece would make a superb addition to any collection of antique smoking accessories...

Category

Late 19th Century French Antique Late Victorian Objets d'Art and Vertu

Materials

Brass, Enamel, Gilt Metal

Antique French Enamel and Gilt Brass Vesta Case, circa 1880
Antique French Enamel and Gilt Brass Vesta Case, circa 1880

Antique French Enamel and Gilt Brass Vesta Case, circa 1880

Located in Rotterdam, NL

A delightful antique French vesta case (match safe), finely crafted in gilt brass and decorated with a colorful hand-painted enamel plaque. The enamel scene depicts a playful seaside...

Category

Late 19th Century French Antique Late Victorian Objets d'Art and Vertu

Materials

Enamel, Brass

Miller Bros Sterling Silver Late Victorian Exquisite Belt. Birmingham, c1899.
Miller Bros Sterling Silver Late Victorian Exquisite Belt. Birmingham, c1899.

Miller Bros Sterling Silver Late Victorian Exquisite Belt. Birmingham, c1899.

Located in MELBOURNE, AU

Bearing English Hallmarks: Anchor - for Birmingham assay office Letter date - for 1899 Lion Passant - for English Sterling Silver & maker's mark: M Bros - for Miller Brothers, w...

Category

1890s British Antique Late Victorian Objets d'Art and Vertu

Materials

Sterling Silver

Art Nouveau Silver Cigarette Case With Erotic Enamel Painting by F. Reznicek
Art Nouveau Silver Cigarette Case With Erotic Enamel Painting by F. Reznicek

Art Nouveau Silver Cigarette Case With Erotic Enamel Painting by F. Reznicek

Located in Vienna, AT

Exquisite cigarette case with Enamel Paing: Hinged silver box with decorated lid, depiction of a young lady situated in her bed in a luxuriously furnished bedroom, Signature 'Reznicek' in the lower right corner. Inner gilding. Ferdinand Freiherr von...

Category

Late 19th Century German Antique Late Victorian Objets d'Art and Vertu

Materials

Sterling Silver, Silver, Enamel

Continental Silver Hunt Scene Repousse Box
Continental Silver Hunt Scene Repousse Box

Continental Silver Hunt Scene Repousse Box

Located in Riverdale, NY

Elegant Continental Silver Hunt Scene Repousse Box. Hand repousee with hunters with boar, dog and boar. 1900's European hallmarks. Handmade. 5.75" x 4" x ...

Category

1890s European Antique Late Victorian Objets d'Art and Vertu

Materials

Silver

Victorian Sterling Silver Mounted Standing Mirror
Victorian Sterling Silver Mounted Standing Mirror

Victorian Sterling Silver Mounted Standing Mirror

Located in London, GB

A Victorian sterling silver mounted standing mirror with blue velvet back, the decoration shows pierced out scroll, floral and leaf design with a plain cartouche at the top, overall ...

Category

Late 19th Century British Antique Late Victorian Objets d'Art and Vertu

Materials

Sterling Silver

Cameo of the Last Supper Engraved Brooch and Pendant
Cameo of the Last Supper Engraved Brooch and Pendant

Cameo of the Last Supper Engraved Brooch and Pendant

Located in Berkeley, CA

This beautiful cameo brooch/ pendant depicts the Last Supper in great detail. A true cameo is a miniature sculpture in relief, carved from a single shell. Travelers touring Europe he...

Category

Early 1800s American Antique Late Victorian Objets d'Art and Vertu

Materials

14k Gold

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Located in Northampton, MA

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Late Victorian Extra Long Rhinestone Pavé Silver Hat Pin, 1890s
Late Victorian Extra Long Rhinestone Pavé Silver Hat Pin, 1890s

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Located in Tucson, AZ

A necessity during the Victorian Era, hat pins not only balanced precarious hats atop piles of hair but also moonlighted as weapons against overzealous gentlemen. Though teetering ha...

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Crystal, Silver

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Located in New York, NY

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1890 Thimble 18kt gold
1890 Thimble 18kt gold

1890 Thimble 18kt gold

Located in Neguri, Vizcaya

Fine antique thimble crafted in 14 ct yellow gold. The thimble has a pitted crown and a ribbed, polka dot design around the main body. The rim of this...

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The Three Graces Carved Cameo Set in 14 Karat

The Three Graces Carved Cameo Set in 14 Karat

Located in Berkeley, CA

This elegant cameo brooch from the Late Victorian era is an excellent example of shell carving depicting the three Graces. The 14k gold setting is a wonderful filigree design that ad...

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