The pearl has been synonymous with ladylike elegance since the Tudor period — learn what to look for when shopping for vintage and antique pearl jewelry as well as how to tell the origin of a pearl with our handy primer.
Every woman at some point in her life desires a simple strand of pearls. They are elegant, timeless, versatile — just ask Coco Chanel or Jacqueline Kennedy — and valuable. In 1917, Pierre Cartier famously traded a double-strand of natural pearls for a Fifth Avenue mansion, the Cartier brand’s flagship store ever since. And if you were born in the beginning of summer, pearl is the June birthstone.
It is possible to tell where a pearl originated from its appearance. Akoyas are usually round and white — the classic pearl, if you will. South Sea pearls are normally larger and vary in color; orangey yellow ones are not uncommon. Tahitian pearls are mostly black but can also be gray or brown, and between the Akoya and the South Sea varieties in size. Freshwater pearls, or Orientals, run the gamut in terms of color and size, but in shape, they tend to resemble Rice Krispies. Another important distinction is a round pearl versus a baroque pearl. A round pearl is self-explanatory, but there are two types of baroque pearls: symmetrical and asymmetrical. In general, the symmetrical variation commands a higher valuation. Within a strand of pearls, uniformity is prized — the more the individual pearls resemble one another, the more valuable the strand.
According to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the earliest recorded mention of a pearl was in 2206 BC by a Chinese historian. Centuries later, Christopher Columbus made it a point to visit pearl fisheries during his 15th-century exploration of the Caribbean. Since the late-19th century, the Japanese have been at the forefront of cultivating pearls, when jeweler Kokichi Mikimoto successfully cultured the world’s first pearl in 1893.
On 1stDibs, find vintage and antique pearl necklaces, pearl earrings and other accessories.
Also called Y necklaces as they are designed to hang a certain way, vintage drop necklaces are striking and adaptable. They can enhance everything from a casual sweater-and-jeans combo to an elegant heels-and-evening-dress pairing.
Adornment is an ancient human practice, with archeologists identifying early jewelry made from bones, claws and shells. As technology has advanced, so too have jewelry designs and the design of necklaces, from the simple to the intricate.
Drop necklaces come from lariat-style necklaces, which are chain necklaces that end in a tassel or pendant. A drop necklace’s design, meanwhile, is long with open ends, and it usually does not have a clasp. It consists of a single chain that wraps around the neck and a centerpiece — sometimes featuring a diamond or pearls — that hangs down to the middle of the chest. Drop necklaces frequently come in lengths from 16 to 20 inches, with the vertical lines making them appear longer than other necklaces of the same length.
Drop necklaces are extremely versatile, able to be worn knotted, draped or looped. They can be chunky statement pieces or thin, minimal designs. The range of drop necklaces that can be found on 1stDibs can accentuate the plunging necklines of modern looks or add flair to a basic ensemble.