Ralph Lauren 1997

To suggest that Ralph Lauren has come a long way is an understatement. From his humble beginnings as a tie salesman working out of a drawer at New York’s Empire State Building, he grew one of the world’s largest and most successful fashion empires from scratch.

For decades, Ralph Lauren’s clothing brand has blended classic, preppy Americana East Coast-style with the look of upper-crust English aristocracy. This style is the hallmark of Ralph Lauren’s design and can be seen in all facets of his brand, from its vintage apparel, accessories and jewelry to furniture and décor.

The iconic fashion designer was born Ralph Rueben Lifshitz in New York City and grew up in the Bronx. When he and his brother were in their teens, they changed their surname from Lifshitz to Lauren after being teased about it at school. Later on, Lauren took business classes at night, worked at various menswear retailers and did a stint in the U.S. Army. While working at tie manufacturer Beau Brummel, he was inspired to create his own line of ties.

In 1967, Lauren launched “Polo,” ties handmade from high-quality fabrics featuring a wide design. They were a success. Lauren sold $500,000 worth to retail giants Bloomingdale’s, Neiman Marcus and Paul Stuart in his first year.

Lauren expanded his designs into clothing, with his first menswear line of classic tweed suits in 1968 and, in 1971, his first line of womenswear featuring classic feminine tailoring. Lauren’s nostalgic fashion soon captured the eye of Hollywood. He created costumes for the 1974 adaptation of The Great Gatsby and was responsible for Diane Keaton’s distinctive feminine menswear look in 1977’s Annie Hall. Ralph Lauren’s designs have since garnered national and international acclaim and recognition — from Gwyneth Paltrow’s iconic pink 1999 Oscars dress to becoming the official outfitter of Team USA for the Olympics since 2008.

In 2018, Ralph Lauren celebrated his 50th anniversary with a star-studded fashion show and, in 2019, was awarded an honorary knighthood — the highest British honor — for services to fashion.

On 1stDibs, discover a wide range of vintage Ralph Lauren shirts, sweaters and other clothing.

For fashion lovers, the 1990s have become associated with styles adopted by today’s supermodels and influencers, who never wear the same thing twice. And because fast fashion didn’t yet exist, the design associated with 1990s fashion — vintage '90s handbags, clothing and accessories — has a quality appreciated by the millennial generation: authenticity.

If there was one concept unifying fashion in the 1990s, it was the lean silhouette. “Fashion is a game of proportion,” Alexander Fury wrote in the New York Times in 2016. “Narrow-shouldered and narrow-hipped, the ’90s were skinny.”

If it takes a practiced eye to identify that single concept, that’s because in truth, ’90s fashion was many things to many people. After the 1980s era of strong-shouldered working women, glossy aerobicized bodies and Madonna, fashion branched out.

The industry gained momentum from big-money relaunches of the great Paris houses Dior, Givenchy and Balenciaga, rescued at long last from the constraints of licensing. Japan and Belgium gave fashion new avant-garde ideas to play with. From America came denim, minimalism, '90s grunge fashion and hip-hop. From Italy came sex appeal. And Prada.

For the colorful corsets of her 1990 Portrait collection, audacious British designer Dame Vivienne Westwood drew on 18th-century oil paintings — her models donned the pearl choker necklaces that have become a social media star and a favorite of influencers and fashion lovers all over the world. For a jacket-and-shorts suit from her Fall/Winter 1996–97 Storm in a Teacup line, the designer used the extreme asymmetry of a tartan mash-up to confront, according to Westwood, “the horror of uniformity and minimalism.”

“The ethos of the time was, you could have style, you could be into all kinds of cool stuff. It wasn’t about money, it wasn’t about status,” says Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of Resurrection. In contrast, “our last 10 years have seen the domination of nonstop luxury, money and status.”

Vintage 1990s Chanel bags, for example, are among the most prized of the brand’s offerings — at Newfound Luxury, proprietor L. Kiyana Macon has "clients who only buy ’90s Chanel because they recognize that it is the best quality.” 

Things were different in the ’90s, and the difference is reflected in the clothes. Pull up any recent “How to Do the 1990s” fashion article (or look at photos of current supermodels Gigi, Kendall and Bella), and you’ll see iconic '90s outfits — knee socks, cardigans, fanny packs, fishnet stockings, slip dresses, flannel shirts and combat boots.

Rodriguez has recently noticed something similar happening. Before COVID, customers searched 1990s stock “for very sexy Galliano, Dior, Cavalli — that kind of thing,” she explains, noting that just a few months ago, “people were posting [on social media] the poshest things they could.” Now, in the age of shutdown, “that would just look out of touch.”

Instead, people are looking for “things that are cool but also easy and comfortable, not necessarily super-luxe,” Rodriguez continues. They’re “heading back to the more avant-garde, anti-fashion designers, like Helmut Lang, [Martin] Margiela and [Ann] Demeulemeester.”

Late designer Franco Moschino shocked and titillated the ’80s fashion elite with his whimsical, irreverent parodies of bourgeois finery. Whether emblazoning a sober blazer with smiley faces or embellishing a skirt suit with cutlery, Moschino rendered high style with a hearty wink. He famously said, “If you can’t be elegant, at least be extravagant” — words that, with all due respect to Susan Sontag, epitomize the essence of camp.

Vintage Moschino pants, jackets and other '90s Moschino garments remain so bold and fresh today that even the house's former creative director, Jeremy Scott, drew on the brand's past and the pop culture of the decade for his debut collection in 2014.

Find vintage 90s dresses, skirts, sweaters and other clothing and accessories on 1stDibs — shop Thierry Mugler, Miuccia Prada, Jean Paul Gaultier and more today.