Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu

One of the world’s foremost jewelry houses, Van Cleef & Arpels is particularly noted for a focus on technical virtuosity, craftsmanship and artistry, evident since its beginning. Rather than jewelry whose primary aim was the display of wealth and opulence, Van Cleef & Arpels sought to produce pieces that projected the wearer’s taste and style — winning the house a roster of dedicated, fashion-conscious clients that included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Barbara Hutton, Jacqueline Onassis and Elizabeth Taylor.
The company was formed a year after the 1895 marriage of Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a gem cutter, to Estelle Arpels, daughter of precious-stones dealer Salomon Arpel. Ten years later, Van Cleef & Arpels opened its first boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris, setting the march on a square now crowded with dealers in bijouterie. (The company still occupies the New York flagship store opened in 1939 at Fifth Avenue and 57th Street.) Born from a union of expertise in both jewelry making and gem selection, the firm distinguished itself with both the consistency of the color and clarity of its stones and the creativity of its designs. In 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels patented its trademark Mystery Setting — a technique by which gems are fitted into an intricate matrix of slots and “drawers” that keep the setting hidden. Another signal innovation was the Zip necklace, introduced in 1951, which can be worn either around the neck or, with the zipper closed, as a bracelet.
But as much as to the firm’s craftsmanship, clients have been drawn by the insouciance and playfulness of Van Cleef & Arpels designers, as well as their attunement to the cultural climate. After the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, the company produced several lavish pieces featuring hieroglyphics and other Egyptian motifs to go along with the geometric Art Deco jewelry of that decade and the next. Following World War II, as symbols of freedom and rebirth, the firm focused on naturalistic forms such as birds, flowers, fruit and flying insects. High society’s 1960s fascination with the Near East and India prompted such pieces as the best-selling Alhambra necklace, popularized by Princess Grace. Lately, attention among collectors and connoisseurs has centered on Van Cleef & Arpels’s quality of workmanship as much as its glamour. The firm was the subject of a 2012 show at the Cooper-Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, as well as exhibitions at the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana, California, in 2013 and at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 2014.
20th Century Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
Sapphire, Gold
Mid-19th Century Antique Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
Yellow Gold
1970s Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
Ruby, 14k Gold, Gold
20th Century Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
Mid-20th Century Artist Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
18k Gold
1930s Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
18k Gold
1960s Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold
1930s Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
Sterling Silver
1970s Retro Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
18k Gold
1940s Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1960s Artist Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
18k Gold
Late 20th Century Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Mid-20th Century Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold
1960s Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
Emerald, Sapphire
Mid-20th Century Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
20th Century Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
1960s Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
20th Century Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
20th Century Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
20th Century Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
20th Century Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
20th Century Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
20th Century Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
20th Century Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
20th Century Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
20th Century Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
20th Century Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
1940s Retro Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century Art Deco Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
Sapphire, 18k Gold
Late 20th Century Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
18k Gold
20th Century Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
18k Gold
21st Century and Contemporary Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
20th Century Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
18k Gold
Mid-20th Century Modern Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Mid-20th Century Art Deco Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
Sapphire, Platinum
1940s Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Sterling Silver
Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
Mid-20th Century Modern Van Cleef & Arpels Objets d'Art and Vertu
Turquoise, 14k Gold