Chanel Raffia Hat

In the years following the opening of her modest millinery shop, Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel became a pivotal designer of both fashionable casual wear and Paris haute couture as well as an icon and arbiter of 20th-century style with her bob haircut and pearls. Today vintage Chanel handbags, jackets and evening dresses are among the most sought-after clothing and accessories for fashion lovers all over the world.

The first Chanel shop was established in 1910 in Paris on rue Cambon by the young milliner Gabrielle Chanel (1883–1971), who had picked up the nickname “Coco” while working as a club singer. The boutique drew the attention of the Parisian fashion elite who popularized her wide-brimmed Chanel Modes hats. Soon she added a sportswear store in the Normandy resort town of Deauville, where Coco set the tone for her defining sense of style — traditionally masculine garments reimagined for feminine shapes, made from simple jersey fabric.

Effortless and elegant, Chanel's designs promoted comfort and grace in women’s wear that had been dominated in the previous century by complicated layers of fabric and cumbersome corsets. She followed this success with a couture house, opened in 1915 in Biarritz.

But Chanel was not born into a life of glamour. Following the death of her mother, her father left her in an orphanage where she lived until the age of 18. It was there that she learned to sew as well as appreciate the classic pairing of black and white as worn by the nuns.

In 1926, Chanel introduced her first little black dress, reclaiming a color that had once been reserved for mourning and working-class women. That same decade, she debuted her perfume, Chanel No. 5, as well as the Chanel suit with a fitted skirt, inspired by the boxy lines of men’s clothing and employing a sporty tweed. 

Chanel closed her fashion operations during World War II, then returned to the industry in 1954 to design for the functional needs of modern women.

Structure and wearability endured in all of Chanel’s clothing and accessories, like the quilted leather 2.55 handbag — a 1955 update of a 1920s-era design — with its gold-chain shoulder strap that freed up a woman’s hands. The 1957 two-tone slingback pumps had a practical heel height while offering a bold statement in the black tip of the shoes. Her collarless jacket reacted against the constricting styles of Christian Dior's New Look, replacing them with a design that was timeless, an instant classic. 

After Coco Chanel died in 1971, the brand underwent several changes in leadership, including fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld, who took over as artistic director in 1983. His collections for Chanel displayed his knack for synthesizing old and new, high and low. Lagerfeld revived Chanel ballet flats and thoroughly embraced the classic logo's interlocking CCs, which took the form of a clasp featured on so many of the rare Chanel bags that are much sought after today.

Vintage Karl Lagerfeld designs for Chanel dresses, coats and other clothing of the 1980s, '90s and 2000s riffed on its iconography, accenting a lexicon of Chanel-isms with tastes of the moment. And as the 1990s have become associated with styles adopted by today’s supermodels and influencers, vintage Chanel bags of the 1990s are among the most prized of the brand’s offerings.

Over the years, the company has continued to innovate, such as expanding into ready-to-wear fashion in 1978 and, in 2002, establishing a subsidiary company — Paraffection — dedicated to preserving the heritage skills of fashion artisan workshops. The House of Chanel still operates its flagship on rue Cambon in Paris, where it all began.

Browse vintage Chanel bags, evening dresses, shoes, jewelry and other clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.

The right vintage or designer hat can transform a look. This humble accessory is your reliable pièce de résistance, boosting confidence and lending an air of sophistication to any ensemble.

Functional and a widely renowned, versatile finishing touch when heading out for a night on the town, hats have long been a part of the history of fashion. Wealthy Egyptians, for example, wore hats to keep them cool in the blazing sun.

In the early 1800s, the wide-brimmed bonnets that women wore became increasingly elaborate. The brims broadened and many were embellished with colorful floral decorations. Legendary fashion designer Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s career began in millinery, a term that stems from Milan, Italy, as it was the city best known for producing quality hats during the 16th century. That was before she would set the fashion world alight with comfortable and practical jackets and skirts, encouraging women to leave extravagant clothes behind. Halston, who defined the spare, body-conscious style of the so-called Studio 54 era, was the hat designer for Bergdorf Goodman when he first moved to New York City. He had his first encounter with fame in 1961 when Jackie Kennedy wore a pillbox hat he designed.

From fascinators at a prestigious derby to a baseball cap for a walk in the park, there’s a hat for every occasion. When shopping for the right hat, you’ll want to pick one you feel confident in. Think about size too — you don’t want a wide-brimmed headpiece that will hog the spotlight on every occasion (or maybe you do). If you’ve got a petite face, an oversize hat might be too overbearing.

On 1stDibs find an expansive assortment of vintage and designer hats today. You can search for hats by style, designer or color.