Jaeger Art Deco

The exquisite art of watchmaking is on display in the distinctive designs of Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Swiss manufacturer is celebrated for its striking Art Deco–era antique clocks, while its range of sumptuous luxury watches spans the gamut of modern design, each one a time capsule of its period.

Jaeger-LeCoultre was established in 1833 by watchmaker Antoine LeCoultre in the Vallée de Joux of the Swiss mountains. LeCoultre was also an inventor who, in 1844, created the millionomètre. As the first instrument to measure thousandths of a millimeter with total accuracy, it refined the meticulous watchmaking process. By 1866, LeCoultre's son, Elie LeCoultre, took over the business. He revolutionized watchmaking by bringing all 180 skills involved in the trade into one workshop: LeCoultre & Cie Manufacture.

By 1903, the company had passed to Antoine LeCoultre's grandson, Jacques-David LeCoultre. He created a signature line of ultra-thin watches in partnership with Edmond Jaeger, a French watchmaker who specialized in flat watch cases. In 1907, Louis Cartier signed a contract with Jaeger so that Cartier would have movements for its popular timepieces produced exclusively at LeCoultre in Switzerland. This era saw the debut of Cartier’s Santos as well as its Tank watch.

Watchmakers at Jaeger-LeCoultre began to experiment with the Art Deco style that had encompassed the 1920s and the 1930s. At the time, there were many influences that led to the creation of Art Deco jewelry, while the cases of Art Deco clocks featured architectural details and saw an integration of materials such as brass, glass and marble. Iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre designs from this era include the 1928 Atmos clock and the Reverso watch. Stylish and practical, the coveted Reverso watch features a case that you can flip to protect the watch face.

During the 1950s and '60s, Jaeger-LeCoultre watchmakers continued the manufacturer’s tradition of prioritizing practical reliability. In 1958, the company introduced the robust and durable Geophysic watch collection. The Memovox Polaris, an alarm-equipped dive watch one could wear underwater, followed in 1968.

The best-known timepiece in the company's modern collection is the Master Control watch, unveiled in 1992. It symbolizes a return to the thin style and performance-first ethic of classic Jaeger-LeCoultre. In 2018, the watchmaker also launched the Polaris collection. Inspired by the original Memovox, the series features a sporty, elegant and contemporary look.

Find vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre wristwatches and pocket watches on 1stDibs.

Fascination with the Jazz Age is endless, and even today jewelry designers continue to be inspired by authentic Art Deco jewelry and watches.

The Art Deco period, encompassing the 1920s and ’30s, ushered in a very distinct look in the design of jewelry. There were many influences on the jewelry of the era that actually began to take shape prior to the 1920s. In 1909, Serge Diaghilev brought the Ballet Russes to Paris, and women went wild for the company’s exotic and vibrant costumes It’s no wonder, then, that jade, lapis lazuli, coral, turquoise and other bright gemstones became all the rage. There already existed a fascination with the East, particularly China and Japan, and motifs consisting of fans and masks started to show up in Art Deco jewelry.

However, the event that had the greatest influence on Deco was the excavation of the tomb of King Tut in 1922. When the world saw what was hidden in Tut’s burial chamber, it sent just about everyone into a frenzy. Pierre Cartier wrote in 1923 that “the discovery of the tomb will bring some sweeping changes in fashion jewelry.” And he couldn’t have been more right. “Egyptomania” left an indelible mark on all of the major jewelry houses, from Cartier to Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron and Georges Fouquet. (Cartier created some of the most iconic jewelry designs that defined this era.)

While a lot of Art Deco jewelry was black and white — the black coming from the use of onyx or black enamel and the white from rock crystal and diamonds — there is plenty of color in jewelry of the era. A perfect accent to diamonds in platinum settings were blue sapphires, emeralds and rubies, and these stones were also used in combination with each other.

Many designers employed coral, jade and lapis lazuli, too. In fact, some of the most important avant-garde jewelers of the period, like Jean Després and Jean Fouquet (son of Georges), would combine white gold with ebony and malachite for a jolt of color.

A lot of the jewelry produced during this time nodded to current fashion trends, and women often accessorized their accessories. The cloche hat was often accented with geometric diamond brooches or double-clip brooches. Backless evening dresses looked fabulous with sautoir necklaces, and long pearl necklaces that ended with tassels, popular during the Edwardian period, were favored by women everywhere, including Coco Chanel.

Find unique Art Deco necklaces, earrings, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.