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Victorian 9kt gold and silver bull - head stick pin
Located in Braintree, GB
Victorian 9kt gold and silver bull - head stick pin with diamonds and rubies. Stick pin is crafted
Category

Antique Early 1900s British Victorian Brooches

Materials

Gold, Silver

Antique Diamond & Ruby Horse Shoe Stick Pin
Located in New York, NY
Antique Diamond & Ruby Horse Shoe Stick Pin A stickpin featuring square cut rubies & rose cut
Category

Antique Early 1900s Unknown Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Butterfly Emerald, Ruby, Diamond Gold Stick Pin
Located in Newton, MA
Elevate your style with this fashionable butterfly stick pin accessory that effortlessly combines
Category

20th Century Unknown Modern Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage French Gold Ruby Diamond Flower Stick Pin
Located in New York, NY
A vintage French gold stick pin. Flower finial set with round-cut rubies and diamonds. Eagle gold
Category

20th Century Unknown Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold

Antique Russian Ruby Diamond Sapphire Stick Pin Brooch
Located in Cairo, EG
Antique pin with 3 natural gem stones ruby sapphire and old mine cut diamond pin was made during
Category

Vintage 1920s Brooches

Antique Barcelona Football Club Ruby Sapphire and Diamond Stick Pin
Located in London, GB
Here we have a rare and exceptional stick pin from the early 20th century. The head is designed in
Category

Vintage 1910s Spanish Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage 14k Yellow Gold Ruby and Cultured Pearl Cameo Stick Pin
Located in New York, NY
Embrace timeless elegance with our Vintage 14K Yellow Gold Ruby and Cultured Pearl Cameo Stick Pin
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Victorian Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Stick Pin South Sea Pearl Ruby and Diamond Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The stick pin with South Sea pearl ruby and diamond features an 17.5mm pearl atop a corolla set
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Italian Artist Brooches

Materials

White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

14 Karat Yellow Gold Bull Dog Stick Pin with Cabochon Ruby Eyes
Located in valatie, NY
14K Yellow Gold Bull Dog Stick Pin with Cabochon Ruby Eyes. Unmarked, tested 14K gold. With a
Category

Early 20th Century American Art Deco Vanity Items

Materials

Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Estate Arto Deco Platinum Ruby, Sapphire & Diamond Stick Pin - VHK#989
Located in Hicksville, NY
Estate Arto Deco Platinum Ruby, Sapphire & Diamond Stick Pin - VHK#989 Item Details: Metal Type
Category

20th Century Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum

Antique Victorian 18K Gold Baroque Pearl, Ruby and Enamel Dog Head Stick Pin
Located in Staines-Upon-Thames, GB
An antique baroque pearl, ruby, enamel, yellow gold and white gold stick pin, comprising one
Category

Early 20th Century Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Pearl, Ruby, 14k Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel

Mid-20th Century Jade Diamond Ruby & Onyx 18K Yellow Gold Stick Pin Brooch
Located in Boca Raton, FL
This vintage brooch stick pin is crafted in 18-karat yellow gold, featuring an intricately carved
Category

Mid-20th Century American Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Jade, Onyx, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Art Deco Platinum Duck Stick Pin Diamond Accents and Ruby Eye Early 20th Century
Located in New York, NY
this charming platinum stick pin, intricately designed in the form of a duck. Lovingly adorned with
Category

Early 20th Century English Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, Platinum

18 Karat Yellow Gold Ruby Sapphire and Diamond Earring and Stick Pin Set Estate
Located in New York, NY
18 Karat Yellow Gold Ruby Sapphire & Diamond Earring And Stick Pin Set Estate Each earring has
Category

1990s Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold

14K Stick Pin Collection Flower Basket Brooch
Located in Big Bend, WI
Beautiful 14K yellow gold stick pin collection flower basket brooch. The pin has 8 stick pins
Category

20th Century Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Opal, Cultured Pearl, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Turquoise, Zircon, 1...

Antique Georgian 14k Yellow Gold Opal Cabochon w/ Old Cut Ruby Halo Stick Pin
Located in Montclair, NJ
Color Play - 8mm (approx.) (14) Natural Genuine Rubies - Old Mixed Cut - Prong Set - Red Wine Color
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Opal, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Sterling Silver

Vintage Stick/Tie Pin, Fox Head with Ruby Eyes set in 9 Carat Yellow Gold
Located in London, GB
Sweet, edgy, and boho pin, creative and fun to wear, charming with this 9 caratyellow gold pin in
Category

Vintage 1950s British Retro Brooches

Materials

Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage Multi Gem Gold Parrot Brooch Stick Pin
Located in Montreal, QC
Simply Beautiful! Finely detailed Whimsical Vintage Multi-Gem Parrot Stick Pin. Securely Hand set
Category

Late 20th Century Modernist Brooches

Materials

Malachite, Ruby, Cultured Pearl, Onyx, Diamond, Coral, Yellow Gold, 18k ...

Antique Dagger/Knife Stick Pin with Ruby and Rose Cut Diamonds in 18 Carat Gold
Located in London, GB
hand-holding, and ruby center as decor, with two rose-cut diamond shoulders. This versatile pin can be
Category

Antique Early 1900s British Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, 9k Gold

Antique Victorian Mars Cameo Sardonyx Gold Stick Pin France
Located in Munich, Bavaria
The oval cameo shows a profile carving of Mars in an 18k gold mount and pin. This piece of
Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Contemporary More Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

18k solid gold stick pin - rose cut diamond halo - Antique Victorian brooch
Located in Antwerp, BE
small rose cut diamonds around an oval cut synthetic ruby. This stick pin is very good condition
Category

Antique 1890s European Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold

Antique Victorian 18K Yellow Gold and Silver Diamond Pheasant Stick Pin
Located in Staines-Upon-Thames, GB
An antique diamond, ruby, silver, and yellow gold stick pin, comprising twenty-six rose cut
Category

Antique Late 19th Century British Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver

Hayden W. Wheeler 1930 Deco Brooch Platinum with 4.33 Cts Diamonds & Sapphires
Located in Miami, FL
. Wheeler & Co. HWW USA Gargoyle 14K Gold Pearl Ruby Stick Pin Hayden W. Wheeler & Co, was one of the
Category

Vintage 1930s Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum

Sterling silver and 18k rose gold flower pin with ruby cabochon
Located in New York, NY
Gold Flower Stick Pin, adorned with a radiant Ruby Cabochon. A delicate blossom crafted from lustrous
Category

21st Century and Contemporary American Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Sterling Silver, 18k Gold, Rose Gold

Leaf Wreath Brooch Pin with Diamond and Ruby Detail in 14 Karat Gold
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
: 14K Yellow and White Gold Closure: Hinged stick pin Natural Rubies: .20 ctw Natural Diamonds: .10 ctw
Category

20th Century Italian Contemporary Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique French Diamond Fox Stickpin of Silver and 18k Gold
Located in Lewisburg, PA
Ronnberg). This antique stick pin (circa 1830) features a diamond studded fox head with ruby eyes. The
Category

Antique Early 19th Century Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Silver

An Early 20th Century Harlequin Moonstone And Ruby Stick-pin
Located in London, GB
An early 20th century harlequin moonstone and ruby stick-pin, the realistically carved moonstone in
Category

Early 20th Century English Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Moonstone, Ruby, 9k Gold, Rose Gold

Victorian Ruby and Pearl Snake Stick-Pin
Located in London, GB
A Victorian ruby and pearl snake stick-pin, the coiled snake with three faceted rubies set on the
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Victorian More Jewelry

Materials

Pearl, Ruby

An Edwardian Star Ruby And Diamond Cluster Stick Pin
Located in London, GB
An Edwardian star ruby and diamond cluster stick pin, the oval shaped cabochon-cut ruby estimated
Category

Early 20th Century English Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Star Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

A Diamond And Ruby Star Of David Stick-pin
Located in London, GB
An Edwardian diamond and ruby Star of David stick-pin, formed with an equilateral triangle-cut
Category

Early 20th Century English Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

A Fleur-de-lis Ruby And Diamond Stick-pin
Located in London, GB
A turn of the century ruby and diamond stick-pin, depicting Fleur-de-Lis encrusted with thirteen
Category

Early 20th Century English Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Late Victorian Diamond-Set Fox Stick-Pin
Located in London, GB
A late Victorian diamond-set fox stick-pin, the realistically carved fox head set with rose-cut
Category

Antique Late 19th Century British Late Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, Silver

A late Victorian diamond-set duck stick pin
Located in London, GB
A late Victorian diamond-set duck stick pin, the polychrome enamelled head with a cabochon ruby-set
Category

Antique Late 19th Century English Late Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver

A Late Victorian Diamond-set Pheasant Stick-pin
Located in London, GB
A late Victorian diamond-set pheasant stick-pin, the realistically carved pheasant with a cabochon
Category

Early 20th Century English Late Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver

Edwardian Natural Pearl and Diamond-Set Bee Stick Pin
Located in London, GB
An Edwardian natural pearl and diamond-set bee stick pin, the thorax set with a cream pearl and the
Category

Antique Early 1900s British Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Natural Pearl, Ruby, Yellow Gold, Silver

Gentleman's 14 Kt Yellow Gold Diamond and Ruby Stick Pin
Located in Windsor Forest, Berkshire
A Gentleman's 14 Kt yellow gold diamond & ruby stick pin, with four square cut rubies flanked by
Category

Mid-20th Century British Modern More Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold

Antique Ruby Stick Pin
Located in METAIRIE, LA
) with 1 Oval Cushion cut Genuine Earth-Mined Natural Pigeon Blood Red Ruby weighing approximately 2
Category

Antique Early 1900s Brooches

Materials

Ruby, 14k Gold

18 Kt Yellow and White Gold Diamond and Ruby Stick Pin Modeled as Cricket Bat
Located in Windsor Forest, Berkshire
An 18 Kt yellow and white gold, diamond and ruby stick pin modeled as a cricket bat and ball in
Category

Late 20th Century British Modern More Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Boxed Victorian Natural Ruby Diamond Rare Wish Bone Stick Pin
Located in Napoli, IT
Past Sign of Distinction Little ornament with big rule in past history, stick pins have been along
Category

Antique 1870s Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Antique 18K gold diamond ruby wolf stick pin brooch, Art deco pin animal brooch
Located in Versailles, FR
For sale a rare antique French stick pin featuring a wolf's head. At the heart of this pin brooch
Category

Early 20th Century French Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Victorian fine fox head stick pin with glass frame back and ruby cabochon eyes
Located in Stratford upon Avon, GB
18ct yellow gold Victorian fox head pin with cabochon ruby eyes.
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Brooches

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique 18 Karat Gold Horse Head Stick Pin, circa 1900
Located in Newport Beach, CA
Wonderful Antique 18K Gold Horse Head Stick Pin with a Diamond and Ruby. Circa 1900. The
Category

Antique Early 1900s Argentine Art Nouveau More Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Victorian Rose Cut Diamond Silver Gold Fox Ring
Located in Boston, Lincolnshire
A Lovely Victorian Silver, Rose cut Diamonds and Ruby Fox head stick pin conversion ring on 18
Category

Antique Late 19th Century British Victorian Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Silver

Victorian 22 Karat Gold Silver Diamond Fox Ring
Located in Boston, Lincolnshire
A Cute Victorian Silver, Rose cut Diamonds and Ruby Fox head stick pin conversion ring on 22 Carat
Category

Antique Late 19th Century British Victorian Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Silver, Gold, 22k Gold

Antique Victorian 18K Yellow Gold and Silver Ruby Stick Pin
Located in Staines-Upon-Thames, GB
A Victorian ruby, yellow gold, and silver stick pin, comprising one cushion shaped ruby, set in 18
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Brooches

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver

Tiffany & Co. Ruby Diamond Stick Pin
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Miami, FL
total. Metal weight: 6.99 grams This diamond and ruby stick pin is accompanied by a retail
Category

20th Century American Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, White Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Playboy Bunny Ruby Gold Stick Pin
Located in New York, NY
Great Playboy "Bunny" stick pin. 14K yellow gold with faceted ruby eye. Full of fun and
Category

Vintage 1960s American More Jewelry

Materials

Ruby, 14k Gold

Georgian Turquoise Ruby Parrot Stick Pin
Located in Napoli, IT
This very pretty and unique stick pin is Georgian/Victorian period – 1840 circa An exquisitely made
Category

Antique 1840s European Georgian Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Turquoise, 18k Gold, 9k Gold, Silver

Victorian Stick Pin Fashioned Diamond & Ruby Fox
Located in Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA
Victorian Stick Pin Fashioned Diamond & Ruby Fox
Category

Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Sterling Silver

Tiffany & Co. Ruby Diamond Gold Stick Pin
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Miami, FL
18k yellow gold Tiffany & Co. stick pin featuring 14 round brilliant cut diamond weighing
Category

20th Century American Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, White Diamond, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

18K Gold Diamond Ruby Gladiator Cameo Stick Pin
Located in New York, NY
An antique late 19th century 18K yellow gold stick pin with a carved carnelian cameo representing a
Category

Antique 19th Century Unknown Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Cartier Art Deco Burma Ruby and Diamond Stick Pin
By Cartier
Located in Greenwich, CT
Stick with this pin and your wardrobe will be completely nailed down! Signed, stamped, and
Category

Early 20th Century American Art Deco More Jewelry

Materials

Ruby, White Diamond, Platinum

Vintage Yellow Gold Diamond and Ruby Owl Stick Pin
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Product details: Featuring Circa 1950's, 18K yellow gold owl shaped animal/ bird with ruby eyes
Category

Vintage 1950s More Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Art Nouveau Enamel Stick Pin
Located in New York, NY
Wonderful Art Nouveau enamel 14k gold stick pin. Beautiful women with flowing hair. Diamond and
Category

American More Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, Ruby

Victorian Natural 1.25 CarBurma Ruby Diamond Fly Stick Pin/Pendant
Located in Narberth, PA
An incredible stick pin/pendant from the Victorian (ca1880s) era! Crafted in 18kt yellow gold and
Category

Antique 1880s Unknown Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Sterling Silver

Diamond Gold Elephant Stick Pin
Located in New York, NY
Figural elephant stick pin, 18K yellow gold. Body is encrusted with full- cut diamonds; faceted
Category

Vintage 1970s American More Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

Skull & Crossbone Antique Stick Pin
Located in New York, NY
Antique 14K gold skull & cross bone stick pin set with bright faceted garnet eyes and fresh water
Category

Antique Late 19th Century American Art Nouveau More Jewelry

Materials

Garnet, Ruby, 14k Gold

White Black Diamond Ruby 18kt Gold Keshi Tahitian Pearl Pin Stick Brooch
By Elisa Pozza by PETRONILLA
Located in Bussolengo, Verona
White Black Diamond Ruby Pin Stick Brooch 18Kt Gold Keshi Tahitian Pearl This brooch is a hand
Category

2010s Italian Artisan Brooches

Materials

White Diamond, Black Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels 18 Karat Yellow Gold Diamond and Ruby Butterfly Stick Pin
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Southampton, PA
Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage 18K Yellow Gold Diamond and Ruby Butterfly Stick Pin? An ornate butterfly
Category

20th Century Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique Art Deco 18K Gold Platinum Ruby Diamond and Pearl Target Stick Pin
Located in Great Neck, NY
Beautiful Antique Art Deco 18K Gold Platinum Ruby Diamond and Pearl Target Stick Pin. This gorgeous
Category

Vintage 1920s Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

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Ruby Stick Pin For Sale on 1stDibs

Surely you’ll find the exact ruby stick pin you’re seeking on 1stDibs — we’ve got a vast assortment for sale. Frequently made of Gold, 18k Gold and Yellow Gold, this item was constructed with great care. Find an antique version now, or shop for 64 vintage or 3 modern creation for a more contemporary example of these cherished accessories. Finding the perfect ruby stick pin may mean sifting through those created during different time periods — you can find an early version that dates to the 18th Century and a newer variation that were made as recently as the 21st Century. Finding an appealing ruby stick pin — no matter the origin — is easy, but Tiffany & Co., Cartier and David Webb each produced a popular version that is worth a look. Today, if you’re looking for a round cut version of this piece and are unable to find the perfect match, our selection also includes rose cut and antique cushion cut alternatives. Most of our ruby stick pin for sale are for women, but there are 40 pieces available to browse for men.

How Much is a Ruby Stick Pin?

Prices for a ruby stick pin can differ depending upon size, time period and other attributes — at 1stDibs, these accessories begin at $295 and can go as high as $13,600, while this accessory, on average, fetches $1,382.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design

This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.

Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef & Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.

Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.

Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.

When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.

According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.

Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.