In an era of social upheaval, venerable Tiffany & Co. designer Elsa Peretti reimagined diamonds as jewelry that working women bought for themselves rather than receiving it from a suitor.
By the time the Italian-born Peretti arrived in New York City, she’d already studied design in Rome, worked for a Milanese architect and taught Italian, French and skiing in Switzerland. She settled on interior design as her potential career path but then chose an altogether different route: modeling. Peretti modeled in Barcelona, Spain, and on the advice of Wilhelmina Cooper — a former model who’d by then founded Wilhelmina Modeling Agency — moved to Manhattan in 1968. When she relocated, Peretti was inspired to pick up jewelry design.
After modeling for designer Halston, the undisputed fashion king of Studio 54, Peretti became his close friend and collaborator, eventually creating jewelry and teardrop-shaped perfume bottles for him. By way of her association with Halston, Peretti took to the disco scene, flourishing in a social circle that included artist Andy Warhol and fashion designer Giorgio di Sant’Angelo.
It wasn’t long before models on di Sant’Angelo’s runway were donning two-inch sterling-silver vases, complete with a rose stem, suspended on leather thongs around their necks. The accessory was Peretti’s inaugural piece of jewelry — she designed it in 1969 after finding a flower vase at a flea market. It was hardly the only time that Peretti found motifs in nature and in organic forms. In the years that followed, her Bean pendant necklace, Starfish earrings and other sensuous accessories would draw on human emotion as well as the natural world around her. Each evocative and wholly versatile design is universally adored decades later, and each was made for a storied American jewelry house with which Peretti would be associated for nearly 50 years.
It was Halston who introduced Peretti to Tiffany & Co. She had her own boutique at Bloomingdale’s by 1972, and her partnership with the firm, which signed the venturesome and unorthodox designer to an exclusive contract in 1974, would cement her place in the lofty annals of jewelry legend. Peretti’s simple but sophisticated designs — the Teardrop collection, her minimalist Diamonds by the Yard necklace and Open Heart ring, to name a few — elevated sterling silver, previously considered unsuitable for fine jewelry, and created an enthusiastic young audience for Tiffany’s offerings. In 1977, Peretti’s designs earned the jewelry house more than $6 million. (In some years, her work has accounted for 10 percent of the company’s sales.)
In 2012, Peretti signed a 20-year, $47.3 million contract with Tiffany & Co., but she passed away in 2021, at age 80. Today, her designs are in the permanent collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City and the British Museum.
Find an exquisite collection of Elsa Peretti jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Elsa Peretti 18K Gold Five Row Wave Bracelet for Tiffany & Co.
By Elsa Peretti
Located in New Hope, PA
Elsa Peretti designed this fluid Five Row Wave bracelet for Tiffany & Co using 18 karat gold and a design that brings to mind ocean waves, at the start of her partnership with Ti...
18k Gold
$1,875
Topaz Cuff Bangle
Located in Miami, FL
Striking cuff bangle crafted in Silver featuring 73 oval shaped Blue Topaz stones. This gorgeous bracelet measures 2.7 inches at its widest part and taper...
Topaz, Silver
White Diamond Teeth Cuff Memento Mori Open Bangle Bracelet J Dauphin
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Teeth Cuff Bracelet White Diamond Black Enamel 14k Gold Plated Memento Mori Open Bangle Designer: J DAUPHIN The Teeth Cuff is a rigid open band in 14k gold plated brass, the band f...
White Diamond, 14k Gold, Gold Plate, Brass
$5,573
W 2.37 in L 1.89 in
1.14 ct of Diamonds on a Rigid Bracelet with Heart Endings 18Kt Gold Made Italy
Located in Rome, IT
Rigid spring bracelet, with heart-shaped ends. The bracelet is made up of a row of diamonds with a final heart with pavé diamonds. The total carat weight of the diamonds is 1.14 ct....
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
Diamond Star Cuff Bracelet Black Enamel Brutalist 14k Gold Plated
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Diamond Star Stud Cuff Bracelet Black Enamel Open Bangle 14k Gold Plated Brass Size: Small/ Medium 55 mm diameter Designer: J DAUPHIN The Star Stud Cuff is a rigid open band in ...
Diamond, 14k Gold, Gold Plate, Enamel, Brass
Black Diamond Cuff Brutalist Stud Barcelet Blue Enamel Gold Plated J Dauphin
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Black Diamond Cuff Brutalist Stud Bracelet Midnight Blue Enamel 14k Gold Plated Eight Pointed Star Designer: J DAUPHIN The Star Stud Cuff is a rigid open band in 14k gold plated ...
Black Diamond, 14k Gold, Gold Plate, Brass, Enamel
John Hardy Classic Chain Bracelet with Black Sapphire in Sterling Silver
By John Hardy
Located in Honolulu, HI
Item Specifications: Brand: John Hardy Metal: Sterling Silver Metal Purity: AG 925 Bracelet Width: 6.45 mm wide Bracelet Length: 7.5" Gemstone: Black S...
Sapphire, Sterling Silver
$9,995
W 0.37 in Dm 2.29 in L 3.04 in
GIA Natural Jadeite Jade Pale Green & Brown Hinged Bangle 14K Gold
Located in Honolulu, HI
GIA Natural Jadeite Jade Pale Green & Brown Hinged Bangle 14K Gold. Comes with GIA report #2235035266. A magnificent jade bangle with beautifully engraved hinge and clasp. The Jade has a very pleasant pale green with a brownish patch that creates a gorgeous contrast with the yellow gold hinge & clasp. The jade is translucent and has a beautiful natural look. The 14k yellow gold hinge and clasp are hand-engraved in botanical floral design. The clasp is equipped with a safety chain for added security. The inside diameter of the bangle is 58mm and would fit wrist size up to 53 mm. The bracelet is 9.37mm thick. The total weight is 55.9 grams. This is a vintage pre-owned Jade bangle in very good condition. Please ask any questions before bidding, serious buyers only please. Bracelet Specification: Style: Hinged jade Bangle...
Jade, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold
$9,526
W 2.17 in L 3.75 in
0.54 ct of Diamonds on 18 Kt Rose Gold Elastic Spiral Bracelet Made in Italy
Located in Rome, IT
Spiral elastic bracelet, in 18 Kt rose gold with five rows, one of which with a row of diamonds. Total Diamonds Weight: ct. 0.54 Total Weight of 18 Kt Gold: 23.7 grams THE MANUFACTUR...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
John Hardy Bracelet with Black Sapphire in Sterling Silver
By John Hardy
Located in Honolulu, HI
Item Specifications: Brand: John Hardy Metal: Sterling Silver Metal Purity: AG 925 Bracelet Width: 9.27 mm wide Bracelet Circumference: 6.67" Bracelet ...
Sapphire, Sterling Silver
Amethyst Bangle Bracelet Black Enamel As Above So Below J Dauphin
By J DAUPHIN
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Amethyst Bangle Bracelet Black Enamel Diamond 14k Gold Plated "As Above So Below" Hermetic Inscription Designer: J DAUPHIN The Amethyst Bangle is handcrafted in 14k gold plated bra...
Amethyst, Diamond, 14k Gold, Gold Plate, Brass, Enamel
$14,750
Dm 2.25 in L 6.5 in
Diamond Bangle Bracelet, Round and Baguette Diamonds 18 Karat Gold, 2.48 Carats
Located in Honolulu, HI
Beautiful Diamond Bangle Bracelet in 18K yellow gold with 2.48 carats of fine round brilliant & Baguette cut diamonds. This hinged bangle features 82 round brilliant cut diamonds...
Diamond, 18k Gold
Semi-rigid bracelet with a row of 0.75 ct of Diamonds. Gold 18 Kt. Made in Italy
Located in Rome, IT
The semi-rigid model bracelet is made up of a row of fifty-one brilliant-cut diamonds, for a total carat weight of 0.75 ct. I ts frame is made up of various segments that make it ela...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. Sculptural Sterling Silver Closed Bangle
By Elsa Peretti
Located in Morongo Valley, CA
Crafted in solid 925 sterling silver with a fluid, organic shape characteristic of Peretti’s biomorphic design language. Substantial in weight with a high-polish finish and elegant a...
Sterling Silver
Early Elsa Peretti Sterling Silver Flying Saucer Bracelet
By Elsa Peretti
Located in New Hope, PA
This flying saucer bracelet is from the very early days of the Elsa Peretti and Tiffany & Co partnership. It is marked E for Elsa Peretti, 925 and T& Co. The oval bracelet has a raised lip at the center opening and it is wider on the two long ends of the oval. It slips on over a small hand. The interior circumference is 7", it comes with the original Tiffany blue felt...
Sterling Silver
ELSA PERETTI for TIFFANY & Co. Wood and Sterling Cuff Bracelet
By Elsa Peretti
Located in Palm Springs, CA
An early Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. wood and sterling silver bracelet. Bracelet measures 7" in circumference. Signed Tiffany & Co., Peretti, Sterling. In very good condition.
Sterling Silver
Elsa Peretti pre ban Ivory Bangle
By Elsa Peretti
Located in New Hope, PA
This rare, pre ban ivory sliced disc bangle bracelet was designed by Elsa Peretti for Halston in the early 1970's. It will make a dramatic statement on your w...