The 1stDibs 2023 Jewelry Trend Report
In a first-time report focused exclusively on the jewelry market, 1stDibs is pleased to reveal emerging trends and reigning favorites across vintage, contemporary and custom accessories.
A leading online global marketplace for luxury goods, 1stDibs offers fine jewelry and high jewelry from all eras, as well as services for sourcing gemstones for custom designs.
In 2023, nearly half a million unique jewelry items were available on the platform, ranging from rare antiques to new pieces crafted by contemporary artisans. Web traffic, searches, sales and trends over time were analyzed by in-house experts and historians to present insights into current jewelry buying patterns that will inform tomorrow’s top trends. (PDF)
2023 Jewelry Trends
The zeitgeist — literally “spirit of the time” — is often reflected in subtle ways, in what we’re dreaming about, wearing and holding close as talismans. The following elements are currently sparking our collective imagination.
Throughout history, the serpent has symbolized a creative and eternal life force, often tinged with a soupçon of danger. Antique and vintage serpent jewelry still resonates with the modern mindset.
Searches for serpent jewelry were up 15% YoY
Associated with sexuality, perhaps because they are worn tight around a vulnerable spot, choker necklaces have long been popular with queens, from Victoria to Alexandra.
Choker Necklaces saw a 21% YoY increase in orders
Among the earliest forms of personalized jewelry, signet rings have carved or inlaid designs that signify something vital and personal. Like a tattoo, but removable.
Searches for signet rings were up 13% in December 2023 compared to the average of the previous six months
First paired with glamorous dresses in the Roaring 20s, this style was repositioned by tennis pro Chris Evert when she wore it on the court. Now, the tennis bracelet can be dressed up or down and never looks out of place.
Tennis bracelets saw an 11% YoY increase in orders
While a simple strand is undeniably proper, pearls also have pride of place in extremely opulent pieces, often combined with colorful gemstones.
Orders for pearl jewelry over $10K were uP 7% YoY
(1900-1983)
The French designer’s jewelry was so original — sensual, tactile, arrestingly modern — that she never signed her pieces, insisting that her style served as her signature. Legions of collectors from Hollywood to Cannes agree.
(1864-1917)
Many of this company’s most coveted pieces were produced during the 1930s and ‘40s by René’s widow, Jeanne, thought to be the first woman jeweler of the 20th century, and by several other employees, including a young Suzanne Belperron.
(1908-2006)
The Argentinian-born jeweler staked a claim on modernity with colorful bejeweled pieces with curvaceous outlines. So great was his passion for a particular creamy-pink pearl that it became known as “FRED-colored.”
(1896-1978)
In 1947, Cosmopolitan gave Harry Winston a moniker that stuck: “King of Diamonds.” An innate gemologist with an intuitive mastery of the trade, he created designs — with and without diamonds — that appear regularly on the red carpet and in museums.
Historical Highlights
Our customers have a real passion for history and are drawn in by the rich narratives that give context to so many of the unique pieces on 1stDibs.
Gold reigned supreme during this period, with inlay, filigree, chasing and stamping among the many techniques employed by the newly formed goldsmith guilds. The cutting of gemstones, including intaglio work, became an art unto itself.
The style and motifs of ancient Greece and Rome, especially those displayed in sculpture, influenced designs of this era. Jewelers were often funded by noble patrons, whose support enabled the development of more refined techniques and artistry.
The Rococo, neoclassic and romantic movements sparked changes in women’s roles and increased fashion experimentation among the affluent. Jewelry became more intricate, and diamonds, recently discovered in Brazil and India, soared in popularity.
A fascination with the natural sciences inspired the use of flora and fauna in jewelry. Ribbons and bows, favored by Queen Victoria, appear in ornate designs, often encrusted with pearls and gems. Machine production made jewelry more accessible to the rising middle class.
Rejecting the machine-made pieces of the previous era, jewelers embraced more delicate craftsmanship, including detailed filigree and openwork. Garlands, swags and lace referenced the styles of 18th-century French courts.
Art Nouveau’s incorporation of art into the everyday elevated the approach to jewelry. Japonisme and a reverence for handcrafted design expressed in free-flowing lines defined this moment, along with natural and feminine motifs rendered in enamel and delicate plique-à-jour.
The 1925 Exposition International des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris had a profound impact on design, which became more streamlined, geometric and futuristic. The discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb popularized the use of Egyptian motifs in jewelry.
Shortages of platinum and fine gemstones caused by war-related shipping challenges spurred innovative uses of metals and semiprecious stones. The new look was dramatic and sculptural, with thinner sheets of metal made to look substantial and weighty.
Mid-Century Cocktail Jewelry
As cocktail parties became a staple of postwar culture, jewelry echoed the bold exuberance of the moment. Oversize cocktail rings and brooches came into vogue, often in textured yellow gold. Animal and flower motifs abounded, as did “atomic” space-age shapes.
The Disco era placed new emphasis on highlighting a woman’s form, rather than merely adorning it. Designers in both fashion and jewelry took a sensual, body-conscious approach. Chunky gold medallions, chains and cuffs lit up the night.
To complement the fashions of the day, jewelry in the ‘80s was bold, colorful and often oversize. Big pearls, bright gemstones and polished yellow gold proved that girls (and guys) just wanted to have fun.
Best-Selling Jewelry Brands & Iconic Designs
Trends come and go, but signed pieces by iconic creators always capture the imagination of collectors — just as they consistently hold their value over time.
Top-Selling Jewelry Brands in 2023
“Tiffany & Co. introduced its now-classic six-prong setting in 1886, but the jewelry house has stayed relevant for all these years by continuing to innovate. Working with such visionary talents as Jean Schlumberger and Elsa Peretti, Tiffany has created legendary pieces that range in style (and price) from gem-set brooches seen on the red carpet to sterling-silver pendants for everyday wear.”
— Anthony Barzilay Freund, Editorial Director
Top-Selling Iconic Jewelry Collections in 2023
Engagement Rings
1stDibs has become a destination for lovers searching for the most special, most meaningful, most unique engagement rings. From Edwardian to Art Deco to custom-made designs, the range and quality we offer attract newbies and connoisseurs alike, all of them excited to find the one meant for them in our curated yet comprehensive collections.
Top-Selling Engagement Ring Styles in 2023
“First popularized in the early 20th century, Art Deco continues to be one of the most enduring styles in jewelry design. For engagement rings especially, Art Deco is a classic and perennially in demand.”
— Anthony Barzilay Freund, Editorial Director
Top Engagement Ring Stone Cuts in 2023
Best-Selling Stones & Metals
Top-Selling Metals in 2023
Top-Selling Colored Gemstones in 2023
The 1stDibs Buyer
As of December 31, 2023, 86% of jewelry buyers were based in the United States, and 14% of buyers were based internationally
Top 10 states where our
U.S. buyers are based:
1. California
2. New York
3. Florida
4. Texas
5. New Jersey
6. Pennsylvania
7. Georgia
8. Massachusetts
9. Virginia
10. Illinois
Top 5 countries where our international buyers are based:
1. United Kingdom | 2. Canada | 3. Australia | 4. France | 5. Switzerland
5 Spectacular Jewelry Sales
Sales of magnificent statement pieces like those featured here indicate a strong interest in the innovative designs and elevated craftsmanship of iconic creators like Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. and Van Cleef & Arpels. We are also seeing an uptick in important gemstones, with diamonds and sapphires currently trending.
Diamond and White Gold Engagement Ring, Contemporary
List Price: $350,000
A stunning example of a heroic 5-carat diamond that is internally flawless
Van Cleef & Arpels Sapphire and Diamond Earrings, 1980
List Price: $395,000
A seamless signature look created using the French house’s legendary Mystery Set technique
Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Diamond Bangle, Contemporary
List Price: $210,000
Impeccably prong-set diamonds framed by a gold stitch motif
Fancy Yellow Radiant Diamond Studs, Contemporary
List Price: $187,500
An unparalleled set, even more impressive for the perfectly matched gems in an elusive hue
Van Cleef & Arpels Emerald and Diamond Ring, 1980
List Price: $355,696
A natural emerald-cut Colombian emerald flanked with brilliant diamonds
There’s always a reason for jewelry. It’s for special occasions and ordinary Tuesdays. It can be a link to the past or a promise for the future. A jewel can be a talisman, a piece of armor, an instant mood booster. Whether you consider yourself a relative novice or a committed collector, jewelry’s power to enchant and delight is universal.
At 1stDibs, we have more than 1,500 knowledgeable and passionate sellers offering coveted classics like antique Cartier earrings and Suzanne Belperron brooches. Shoppers come to 1stDibs because they know they can find everything from a dazzling platinum and diamond Art Deco engagement ring to a bold 1970s Van Cleef & Arpels lapis lazuli and gold bracelet — or even a loose gemstone that they can have made into a bespoke piece. It’s this wealth of extraordinary inventory that creates aficionados and reminds us that the voyage of discovery is part of the fun.
— Anthony Barzilay Freund, Editorial Director
