Created in the 1870s, this no-heat ruby and diamond "Sévigné" bow brooch is set in silver-topped gold. The naturalistic form, centering a square cushion-cut ruby weighing approximately 1.76 carats, is designed as an asymmetrical, high relief bow-knot mounted with over seven carats of old-cut diamonds, and has a detachable fitted pin stem. A delicate and stylish antique form, this naturalistic ruby bow is designed to convey the careless glamor of pre-Revolutionary Bourbon France.
Item #: BO-22298
Circa: 1870s-1880s
Dimensions: 2.375" length, 2.625" width.
Materials: 1 square cushion-cut no-heat Thai ruby (weighing approximately 1.76 carats); 124 old mine-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 7.40 carats); Silver-topped gold mount
Gram Weight: 17.5 grams
Documentation: Accompanied by American Gemological Laboratories report no. 1151736 dated 12 November 2025 stating that the ruby shows no evidence of heat, and is of Thailand origin.
Macklowe Gallery Curator's Notes:
This form of bow brooch was first popularized by Marie de Rabutin-Chantal, the Marquise de Sévigné, a 17th century noblewoman, member of the court of Louis XIV, contented widow, and woman of letters whose affectionate correspondence with her daughter gained a wide audience for the author's wit, vivacity, and gentle wisdom. A portrait of the Marquise wearing a velvet, pearl and diamond bow is housed at the Hôtel Carnavalet, where she once lived with her extended family. During the 18th century, and again during the form's Second Empire revival, the "Sévigné" became a freeform bow jewel...
Category
Late 19th Century Antique Ruby Brooches
MaterialsRuby, Gold, Silver