Rooted in centuries of history of adornment dating back to the ancient world, modern jewelry reimagines traditional techniques, forms and materials for expressive new pieces. As opposed to contemporary jewelry, which responds to the moment in which it was created, modern jewelry often describes designs from the 20th to 21st centuries that reflect movements and trends in visual culture.
Modern jewelry emerged from the 19th-century shift away from jewelry indicating rank or social status. The Industrial Revolution allowed machine-made jewelry using electric gold plating, metal alloys and imitation stones, making beautiful jewelry widely accessible. Although mass production deemphasized the materials of the jewelry, the vision of the designer remained important, something that would be furthered in the 1960s with what’s known as the “critique of preciousness.”
A design fair called the “Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes” brought global attention to the Art Deco style in 1925 and gathered a mix of jewelry artists alongside master jewelers like Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin and Boucheron. Art Deco designs from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels unconventionally mixed gemstones like placing rock crystals next to diamonds while borrowing motifs from eclectic sources including Asian lacquer and Persian carpets. Among Cartier’s foremost design preoccupations at the time were high-contrast color combinations and crisp, geometric forms and patterns. In the early 20th century, modernist jewelers like Margaret De Patta and artists such as Alexander Calder — who is better known for his kinetic sculptures than his provocative jewelry — explored sculptural metalwork in which geometric shapes and lines were preferred over elaborate ornamentation.
Many of the innovations in modern jewelry were propelled by women designers such as Wendy Ramshaw, who used paper to craft her accessories in the 1960s. During the 1970s, Elsa Peretti created day-to-night pieces for Tiffany & Co. while designers like Lea Stein experimented with layering plastic, a material that had been employed in jewelry since the mid-19th century and had expanded into Bakelite, acrylics and other unique materials.
Find a collection of modern watches, bracelets, engagement rings, necklaces, earrings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
Gucci Porcelain Set of Six Plates, Circa 1990, Designer Tom Ford
By Gucci
Located in Perugia, IT
Richard Ginori manufactory for Gucci, circa 1996 Designer Tom Ford Description Polychrome porcelain Brand name: "Gucci Porcelain" in black Diameter cm 21 Single plate weight 330 g a...
Silver Plate Skyscraper Plate or Tray by Richard Meier for Swid Powell
By Swid Powell
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine silver plated plate or tray. Designed by Richard Meier for Swid Powell. Swid Powell was the highly acclaimed New York City based tableware company founded by Nan Swid...
Silver Plate
Large Silver Plate Charger or Tray by Richard Meier for Swid Powell
By Swid Powell
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine large silver plated charger or tray. Designed by Richard Meier for Swid Powell. Model no. 417. Together with its original box. Swid Pow...
Silver Plate
$950 / set
H 0.48 in W 0.87 in L 5.83 in
Set of 6 Antique Richard Garten 800 Silver & Dresden Porcelain Dessert Spoons
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine set of 6 antique silver & porcelain dessert (or possibly demitasse) spoons. By Richard Garten. In gilt 800 silver. With raised enamel jeweling to the Dresden porcelain han...
Silver
Lapis Lazuli Silver Plated Spoon Set of Six by Marina J.
By Marina J.
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Amazing One of a Kind Spoon Set by Marina J. Each spoon in this set of 6 is composed of clean and graceful lines giving this elegant set a modern flare. The lapis lazuli beads attach...
Lapis Lazuli, Silver Plate
$395
H 2.75 in W 12.88 in D 10.13 in
Signed Antique French Art Deco Silver Plated Tazza or Table Centerpiece
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine signed French Art Deco period tazza. In silver plate. Apparently marked for Durousseau & Reynaud of Lyon, France. Simply a fine French Art Deco form! Date: Early 20th Cent...
Silver Plate
Set of 4 Gianmaria Buccellati Sterling Silver Plates #21025
Located in Washington Depot, CT
Set of 4 sterling silver plates by Gianmaria Buccellati. These small plates features a smooth polished finish with a globe design at the center of each plate. Measures approx 5 3/8...
Sterling Silver
Russian Silver Plate Samovar with Tray Set
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
- The set is made out of silver plate with celluloid/ bone details - The samovar features floral & geometric motifs - The tray stamped with makers marks that are a little worn off (З...
Silver Plate
Antique Luxurious Bejeweled dessert 18K Gold Filled Coin Silver Porcelain set
Located in SE
Antique Luxurious Bejeweled dessert 18K Gold Filled Silver flatware set in Renaissance style, comprising six knives and six forks in contemporary box. This set is one of a kind,custo...
Garnet, Turquoise, Silver, 18k Gold, Gold-filled
$540Sale Price|20% Off
L 7 in
Antique Tiffany & Co. Sterling Silver Hammered Oval Dresser Pen Tray Monogrammed
Located in Westport, CT
This antique Tiffany & Co. sterling silver oval dresser pen tray features a heavily textured hammered design, elongated oval form, and a central engra...
Sterling Silver
Christofle 24 Piece Silver Plate Mood Silverware Set
By Christofle
Located in New York, NY
This Christofle Mood silver plate flatware set presents a polished, contemporary serving design with the brand’s distinctive egg-shaped storage case. T...
Silver Plate
$1,250
H 0.5 in W 6.5 in L 17 in
Postmodern Rectangular Silver Plate Bar Tray by Richard Meier for Swid Powell
By Swid Powell
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A postmodern silver-plated rectangular tray. Designed by Richard Meier for Swid Powell. Model no. 3416. Together with its original box. Swid Powell was the highly acclaimed New Y...
Silver Plate
$2,950
H 1.13 in W 14.5 in D 11.63 in
Antique German Renaissance Revival Solid 800 Silver Repousse Tray or Charger
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine antique Renaissance Revival German silver tray or charger. In .800 silver. Decorated with a repoussé battle scene. Soldiers are depicted ba...
Silver
A Rectangular Fabergé Cut Glass & Silver Tray
By Fabergé
Located in London, GB
A rectangular Fabergé cut glass & silver tray, silver circular laurel wreath and bow handles, fluted silver rim with a cross relief on either side, cut glass tray...
Silver
$2,100
H 3.25 in W 21 in L 31.25 in
32" Antique Early 19th Century, George III Old Sheffield Silverplate Tray
Located in Bernardsville, NJ
Up for your consideration is this very large and extremely fine early 19th century Old Sheffield shaped oblong handled tea tray. The tray features a deep set, and heavily ornate sc...
Sheffield Plate
Tiffany & Co. Sterling Silver Lettuce or Cabbage Leaf Plate or Dish
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine trompe l'oiel lettuce or cabbage leaf plate or bowl. By Tiffany & Co. In sterling silver. Model no. 25226 With an scalloped border and trompe l'oiel decoration of cabbage ...
Sterling Silver