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A Close Look at Art-deco Jewelry
Fascination with the Jazz Age is endless, and even today jewelry designers continue to be inspired by authentic Art Deco jewelry and watches.
The Art Deco period, encompassing the 1920s and ’30s, ushered in a very distinct look in the design of jewelry. There were many influences on the jewelry of the era that actually began to take shape prior to the 1920s. In 1909, Serge Diaghilev brought the Ballet Russes to Paris, and women went wild for the company’s exotic and vibrant costumes It’s no wonder, then, that jade, lapis lazuli, coral, turquoise and other bright gemstones became all the rage. There already existed a fascination with the East, particularly China and Japan, and motifs consisting of fans and masks started to show up in Art Deco jewelry.
However, the event that had the greatest influence on Deco was the excavation of the tomb of King Tut in 1922. When the world saw what was hidden in Tut’s burial chamber, it sent just about everyone into a frenzy. Pierre Cartier wrote in 1923 that “the discovery of the tomb will bring some sweeping changes in fashion jewelry.” And he couldn’t have been more right. “Egyptomania” left an indelible mark on all of the major jewelry houses, from Cartier to Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron and Georges Fouquet. (Cartier created some of the most iconic jewelry designs that defined this era.)
While a lot of Art Deco jewelry was black and white — the black coming from the use of onyx or black enamel and the white from rock crystal and diamonds — there is plenty of color in jewelry of the era. A perfect accent to diamonds in platinum settings were blue sapphires, emeralds and rubies, and these stones were also used in combination with each other.
Many designers employed coral, jade and lapis lazuli, too. In fact, some of the most important avant-garde jewelers of the period, like Jean Després and Jean Fouquet (son of Georges), would combine white gold with ebony and malachite for a jolt of color.
A lot of the jewelry produced during this time nodded to current fashion trends, and women often accessorized their accessories. The cloche hat was often accented with geometric diamond brooches or double-clip brooches. Backless evening dresses looked fabulous with sautoir necklaces, and long pearl necklaces that ended with tassels, popular during the Edwardian period, were favored by women everywhere, including Coco Chanel.
Find unique Art Deco necklaces, earrings, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
The Legacy of Diamond in Jewelry Design
Antique diamond rings, diamond tiaras and dazzling vintage diamond earrings are on the wish lists of every lover of fine jewelry. And diamonds and diamond jewelry are primarily associated with storybook engagements and red-carpet grand entrances — indeed, this ultra-cherished gemstone has a dramatic history on its hands.
From “A Diamond Is Forever” to “Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend,” pop culture has ingrained in our minds that diamonds are the most desired, the most lasting and the most valuable gemstone. But what makes the diamond so special? Each stone — whether it’s rubies, sapphires or another stone — is unique and important in its own right. April babies might claim diamonds for themselves, but just about everyone wants this kind of sparkle in their lives!
There are several factors that set diamonds apart from other stones, and these points are important to our gem education.
Diamonds are minerals. They are made up of almost entirely of carbon (carbon comprises 99.95 percent; the remainder consists of various trace elements). Diamonds are the hardest gemstones, ranking number 10 on the Mohs Hardness Scale. Even its name, diamond, is rooted in the Greek adamas, or unconquerable. The only object that can scratch a diamond is another diamond. Diamonds are formed deep within the earth at very high temperatures (1,652–2,372 degrees Fahrenheit at depths between 90 and 120 miles beneath the earth’s surface) and are carried up by volcanic activity. Diamonds are quite rare, according to the Gemological Institute of America, and only 30 percent of all the diamonds mined in the world are gem quality.
In the 1950s, the Gemological Institute of America developed the 4Cs grading system to classify diamonds: clarity, color, cut and carat weight. Not all diamonds are created equal (there are diamonds, and then there are diamonds). The value of the diamond depends on the clarity (flawless diamonds are very rare but a diamond's value decreases if there are many blemishes or inclusions), color (the less color the higher the grade), cut (how the diamond’s facets catch the light, certain cuts of diamonds show off the stone better than others) and carat weight (the bigger, the better).
When you start shopping for a diamond engagement ring, always prioritize the cut, which plays the largest role in the diamond's beauty (taking the time to clean your diamond ring at least every six months or so plays a role in maintaining said beauty). And on 1stDibs, a range of buying guides can be found for those in the market for antique engagement rings, vintage engagement rings or Art Deco engagement rings.
Shop antique and vintage diamond rings, diamond necklaces and other extraordinary diamond jewelry on 1stDibs.
Finding the Right Rings for You
Antique and vintage rings have long held a special place in the hearts of fine jewelry lovers all over the world.
No matter their origin or specific characteristics, rings are timeless, versatile accessories. They’ve carried deep meaning since at least the Middle Ages, when diamond rings symbolized strength and other kinds of rings were worn to signify romantic feelings or to denote an affiliation with a religious order. Rings have also forever been emblematic of eternity.
Over time, rings have frequently taken the form of serpents, which have long been associated with eternal life, health and renewal. Italian luxury jewelry house Bulgari has become famous for its widely loved Serpenti motif, for example, and its Serpenti ring, like the other accessories in the collection, began as an homage to jewelry of the Roman and Hellenistic eras. The serpent is now a popular motif in fine jewelry. Jewelry devotees have long pined for rings adorned with reptiles, thanks to antique Victorian rings — well, specifically, Queen Victoria’s illustrious engagement ring, which took the form of a gold snake set with rubies, diamonds and an emerald (her birthstone). Designs for Victorian-era engagement rings often featured repoussé work and chasing, in which patterns are hammered into the metal.
Engagement rings, which are reliably intimidating to shop for, are still widely recognized as symbols of love and commitment. On 1stDibs, a range of buying guides can be found for those in the market for antique engagement rings, vintage engagement rings or Art Deco engagement rings.
The most collectible antique engagement rings and vintage engagement rings are those from the Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco eras. Named for the monarchies of the four King Georges, who in succession ruled England starting in 1714 (plus King William’s reign), antique Georgian rings, be they engagement rings or otherwise, are also coveted by collectors. Pearls, along with colored gemstones like garnets, rubies and sapphires, were widely used in Georgian jewelry. The late-1700s paste jewelry was a predecessor to what we now call fashion or costume jewelry.
The Art Nouveau movement (1880–1910) brought with it rings inspired by the natural world. Antique Art Nouveau rings might feature depictions of winged insects and fauna as well as women, who were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized, frequently with long flowing hair. Art Deco jewelry, on the other hand, which originated during the 1920s and ’30s, is by and large “white jewelry.” White metals, primarily platinum, were favored over yellow gold in the design of antique Art Deco rings and other accessories as well as geometric motifs, with women drawn to the era’s dazzling cocktail rings in particular.
Whether you’re hunting down a chunky classic for a Prohibition-themed cocktail party or seeking a clean contemporary design to complement your casual ensemble, find an exquisite collection of antique, new and vintage rings on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertMay 30, 2024What makes an engagement ring an engagement ring is your decision that a particular piece of jewelry represents your promise to get married. There are no rules when it comes to engagement rings. Any ring that appeals to you can serve as a symbol of your engagement. Shop a variety of antique, vintage and contemporary engagement rings on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021Popular ‘90s clothing items include leather pants, fitted skirts, halter tops, crop tops, mini skirts and platform shoes.The ‘90s style was characterized by a bright color palette. There are plenty of ‘90s fashion accessories and clothing on 1stDibs.
- Who owned Chanel in the 90s?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertMay 5, 2023Alain and Gerard Wertheimer owned Chanel in the 1990s. The brothers are the grandsons of Pierre Wertheimer, who had been business partners with Coco Chanel. In 1974, the Wertheimers inherited the company from their father, Jacques Wertheimer. On 1stDibs, shop a collection of Chanel pieces from some of the world’s top boutiques.
- Was Chanel popular in the 90s?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertMay 5, 2023Yes, Chanel was popular in the 1990s. At that time, Karl Lagerfeld served as the Creative Director for the French luxury fashion house. Print ad campaigns featuring supermodels Claudia Schiffer and Linda Evangelista promoted the brand. Many pieces from the decade proudly displayed the interlocked CC logo, and Chanel miniskirts and jeans were especially trendy. On 1stDibs, shop a variety of Chanel pieces.
- 1stDibs ExpertJune 30, 2023In the 1990s, there were a few models and celebrities who served as the faces of Chanel. They included actress Anna Mouglalis, model and actress Carole Bouquet, model Claudia Schiffer and musician Vanessa Paradis. Shop a collection of Chanel pieces on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertMarch 31, 2023During the 1990s, Versace was so popular largely because Gianni Versace created designs that stood out among others of the time. More than any designer before him, Versace mined celebrity, music and pop art for inspiration. With their unique details and sex appeal, his designs caught the eye of celebrities and made the Italian luxury fashion house well-known among the general public. On 1stDibs, shop a collection of Versace pieces.
- 1stDibs ExpertAugust 17, 2021Some of the most popular bags from the 1990s include Prada backpacks, Fendi Baguette purses, Lady Dior top handle bags and Gucci Horsebit purses. Some, including the Lady Dior and horsebit, are still quite popular today. Find an extensive range of 90s handbags on 1stDibs as well as a variety of other 90s fashion accessories.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Many different styles of dress were popular in the 1990s, including the slip dress which became very common by the middle of the decade. Tastes and styles varied between regions and among people. On 1stDibs, shop a collection of vintage 1990s dresses from some of the world’s top boutiques.
- 1stDibs ExpertNovember 21, 2023In the 1920s, engagement rings still looked like rings but were representative of a diverse range of styles and influences. Art Deco diamond ring designs took inspiration from the contemporary Cubist movement as well as from ancient Egypt – a revival sparked by the opening of King Tut’s tomb in 1922. Native American, African and Asian motifs also inspired jewelry pieces. Diamonds in square and rectangular shapes incorporating angular steps – like emerald cuts, Asscher cuts and baguettes – were set against black onyx, rubies, sapphires and emeralds to create color-blocking effects. Platinum, 18-karat gold, 14-karat white gold and sterling silver were some of the favored metals of the decade. Find a wide range of Art Deco engagement rings on 1stDibs.
- Can engagement rings be colored?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertNovember 21, 2023Yes, engagement rings can be colored. Actually, any ring that appeals to you can function as your engagement ring. Some colored gemstones commonly used in engagement ring designs include sapphires, rubies, emeralds, amethysts and topazes. You can also find engagement rings with pink, yellow, chocolate and other colored diamonds. On 1stDibs, shop a diverse assortment of gemstone engagement rings.
- Can engagement rings be gold?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021Engagement rings can be gold. However, because gold is a softer metal than other metals, such as platinum, making it less popular.
- Can engagement rings be pink?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertNovember 1, 2023Yes, engagement rings can be pink. You're free to wear any type of engagement ring that best expresses your special love story. Some pink gemstones to consider include pink sapphire, morganite, tourmaline, rose quartz, pink topaz and pink diamond. On 1stDibs, explore a large selection of engagement rings from some of the world's top dealers.
- Can engagement rings be green?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertNovember 21, 2023Yes, engagement rings can be green. In fact, engagement rings can be any color that appeals to you because there are no rules regarding what can symbolize a promise to marry. Some green gemstones to consider for your engagement ring include emeralds, green sapphires, peridots and green tourmaline. Explore a diverse assortment of green engagement rings on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021In the US, the average carat size of an engagement ring is usually between 1.08 and 1.2 carats, although there are other factors that go into how impressive the ring looks, including the cut of the diamond and the setting. Find a diverse variety of engagement rings on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2024To choose an engagement ring, start by establishing a budget so that you can focus on pieces that are ideally priced for you. Next, decide whether you prefer a diamond or another type of gemstone and what precious metal you prefer. Once you've made these determinations, look for settings that align with your fiancé-to-be's tastes (or your own tastes if you're selecting your own ring). If you're shopping for diamond engagement rings, use the cut, color and clarity ratings of the available gemstones to compare their overall quality. On 1stDibs, find a large collection of engagement rings.
- 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 27, 2024No, an engagement ring does not have to be a diamond. Although diamonds are popular, rings featuring other gemstones like sapphires, rubies and emeralds can serve as engagement rings, and it's even possible to choose a ring made entirely out of precious metals with no gemstone accents of any kind. There really are no rules when it comes to engagement rings, so feel free to select any ring that appeals to you. Find a diverse assortment of antique, vintage and contemporary engagement rings on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertNovember 1, 2023Yes, there are engagement rings for guys. However, men do not wear engagement rings as often as women. Those who choose to can opt for a wide range of styles from band rings to solitaires to even signet rings. There are no rules when it comes to engagement jewelry, so you can select anything that appeals to you. Shop a large collection of men's rings on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertJanuary 23, 2024The rings that are best for an engagement are the ones that appeal to you and suit your budget. There are no rules when it comes to engagement rings, so really, any ring can be worn as one. The key is to find a ring that reflects your taste. You can choose from solitaires with single gemstones, halos that feature a large stone surrounded by a ring of smaller ones, trilogy rings with one large stone set between two smaller accent stones and many other styles. Engagement rings also don't have to feature gemstones. A domed or flat band ring in a precious metal like platinum or yellow gold can also represent your promise to marry that special someone. On 1stDibs, explore a large collection of engagement rings.
- 1stDibs ExpertAugust 17, 2021A vintage engagement ring is generally defined as an engagement ring that is 20 to 80 years old. By definition, “antique” applies to anything that is 100 years or older. The most popular vintage styles for engagement rings are Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco. Vintage engagement rings could feature traditional diamonds or colored gemstones. Find a wide variety of vintage engagement rings on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022A double engagement ring is a specific type of jewelry presented when a person makes a marriage proposal. It usually features a center stone attached to one band and a second band attached above or below the main band. You'll find a collection of double engagement rings on 1stDibs.
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Will your beloved be enchanted by an Edwardian ring or a trendy Art Deco piece? We clue you into period styles and tips for finding the perfect ring.