Mikawa Pearl Diamond Ring

When Enrico Grassi Damiani opened a goldsmith workshop in Valenza, Italy, in 1924, he established a brand that would completely change the jewelry industry. The seductive shapes that he sketched were translated into sculptural gold Damiani necklaces and rings and accented with diamonds and other precious stones, garnering the attention of Italy’s upper class. The jeweler’s designs, inspired by cityscapes as often as they were flowers and other natural-world forms, would find loyal patrons in the wealthy and now are celebrated as timeless works.

Even today, a ring Damiani designed during the early 20th century in tribute to Queen Margherita continues to inspire the Margherita collection with its daisies of diamonds and gold. One of Damiani’s 1920s designs was the Charleston necklace, a collier with a feather shape adorned with approximately 1,000 diamonds, inspired by revolutionary American-born French dancer and singer Josephine Baker, who’d taken to the stage sometimes clad in little more than pearl jewelry and a feather skirt.

For the next 40 years, Damiani maintained its status as the premier jeweler to Italy’s elite, adapting to restrictions on materials during World War II with pieces that saw an innovative integration of metal alloys and iron. After the war, Damiani’s son, Damiano Grassi Damiani, took over the family business and catapulted the Damiani name onto the international stage.

In the 1970s, Damiano led Damiani to become one of De Beers’s main partners, associating the Italian name with luxury and opulence in high-quality diamonds. He also introduced catalogues, which guaranteed fixed pricing, something radical for fine jewelry. In 1976, Damiani won the prestigious Diamonds International Award for its Shark bracelet, which Damiano’s wife, Gabriella Colombo Damiani, designed using two-toned gold and diamonds.

Following Damiano’s death in 1996, Gabriella took the helm, bringing on her three children — Silvia, Guido and Giorgio — to help oversee the company’s creative direction. In the 2000s, its expansion included new boutiques around the world as well as celebrity collaborations, such as the line of jewelry designed by actor Brad Pitt and goldsmiths in Valenza now available for customers as the D.Side.

Other celebrity partnerships included Sharon Stone, who collaborated on the Maji line to support clean water in Africa, and the Sophia Loren collection, which was inspired by the iconic style of the Italian actress. In 2009, Damiani designed the Harlequin Fantasy Bra for the annual Victoria’s Secret fashion show. The garment took 15 artisans more than 800 hours to craft by hand using 2,355 colorless and cognac-colored diamonds.

Today, the company continues to innovate creatively on its heritage with an eye toward the future, from the timeless Belle Époque collection, inspired by the sketches of founder Enrico Grassi Damiani, to diamond-adorned Apple watch covers.

Find a collection of Damiani jewelry for sale on 1stDibs.

Antique diamond rings, diamond tiaras and dazzling vintage diamond earrings are on the wish lists of every lover of fine jewelry. And diamonds and diamond jewelry are primarily associated with storybook engagements and red-carpet grand entrances — indeed, this ultra-cherished gemstone has a dramatic history on its hands.

From “A Diamond Is Forever” to “Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend,” pop culture has ingrained in our minds that diamonds are the most desired, the most lasting and the most valuable gemstone. But what makes the diamond so special? Each stone — whether it’s rubies, sapphires or another stone — is unique and important in its own right. April babies might claim diamonds for themselves, but just about everyone wants this kind of sparkle in their lives!

There are several factors that set diamonds apart from other stones, and these points are important to our gem education.

Diamonds are minerals. They are made up of almost entirely of carbon (carbon comprises 99.95 percent; the remainder consists of various trace elements). Diamonds are the hardest gemstones, ranking number 10 on the Mohs Hardness Scale. Even its name, diamond, is rooted in the Greek adamas, or unconquerable. The only object that can scratch a diamond is another diamond. Diamonds are formed deep within the earth at very high temperatures (1,652–2,372 degrees Fahrenheit at depths between 90 and 120 miles beneath the earth’s surface) and are carried up by volcanic activity. Diamonds are quite rare, according to the Gemological Institute of America, and only 30 percent of all the diamonds mined in the world are gem quality.

In the 1950s, the Gemological Institute of America developed the 4Cs grading system to classify diamonds: clarity, color, cut and carat weight. Not all diamonds are created equal (there are diamonds, and then there are diamonds). The value of the diamond depends on the clarity (flawless diamonds are very rare but a diamond's value decreases if there are many blemishes or inclusions), color (the less color the higher the grade), cut (how the diamond’s facets catch the light, certain cuts of diamonds show off the stone better than others) and carat weight (the bigger, the better).

When you start shopping for a diamond engagement ring, always prioritize the cut, which plays the largest role in the diamond's beauty (taking the time to clean your diamond ring at least every six months or so plays a role in maintaining said beauty). And on 1stDibs, a range of buying guides can be found for those in the market for antique engagement rings, vintage engagement rings or Art Deco engagement rings. 

Shop antique and vintage diamond rings, diamond necklaces and other extraordinary diamond jewelry on 1stDibs.  

A flashy symbol of wealth during the early 20th century, antique and vintage cocktail rings have gained broader appeal in the decades since for the hefty dose of glamour they bring to any ensemble.

Cocktail rings earned their name for their frequent appearances during glitzy cocktail parties at the height of the Prohibition era. Back then, these accessories were seen not only as statement pieces but as statements in and of themselves. They openly represented a sense of freedom and independence as well as a demonstration of opulence. After all, the 1920s heralded the Harlem Renaissance and Art Deco design, and a slew of social and cultural shifts meant that women in particular were breaking from pre–World War I conventions and embracing newfound freedoms to express themselves as individuals.

Women expressly wore cocktail rings on the fingers of their right hand versus the left, which was “reserved” for an engagement ring or wedding band, accessories definitely paid for by a suitor. And for cocktail rings, the bigger the colored gem at the center — which is usually mounted in a high setting — and the more elaborate the design, the stronger the likelihood of being noticed.

Cocktail rings remained a popular piece of jewelry for women until the 1930s, when the Great Depression and the onset of war marked a change in behaviors nationwide. While the 1960s and ’70s saw a return in visibility for the accessory, it wasn’t until the 1980s that cocktail rings once again assumed their position as a beacon of luxury and glitz.

During the 20th century, the range of dazzling cocktail rings seems to have been limitless, from glimmering gold rings set with carved jade diamonds designed by David Webb to Pomellato’s pink quartz confections to striking Gucci butterfly rings with accent diamonds set in a pavé fashion.

So, how do you wear a cocktail ring? Cocktail rings “can be worn for almost anything — dinners, date nights, parties, special events, on the red carpet,” explains David Joseph of New York-based jewelry brand Bochic. 

Can you wear cocktail rings with other rings? “In my opinion, cocktail rings should stand on their own since they showcase a large gem in the center,” says Joseph.

These glamorous jewels can be worn inside or outside crowded taverns, in either daytime or nighttime with casual or dressy attire. On 1stDibs, find a wide variety of antique and vintage cocktail rings, including those offered by Chanel, whose elegant cocktail rings often feature pearls and, of course, diamonds, and sometimes were styled after showy flowers like the camellia, and Van Cleef & Arpels, whose detailed and intricate designs are viewed as miniature pieces of wearable art.