Moschino Teddy Bear Backpack

The Moschino story begins in the early 1980s, when Franco Moschino (1950–94), a freelance magazine illustrator and Gianni Versace collaborator, founded a label in Italy whose ethos was all about having fun.

Moschino initially pursued a degree in painting at Milan's Brera Academy of Fine Arts during the late 1960s, turning to freelance illustration to help pay his way through school. He found inspiration in Pop art, Dadaism and bold graphics. During the 1970s, he began to work for Gianni Versace’s now-legendary house as a sketcher and freelanced as a clothing designer with other fashion labels. In 1983, encouraged by Versace, he launched his own extravagant and excessive couture collection.

Moschino's expertly tailored, vibrant designs for casual wear and more, each adorned with loud, playful details, spoofed the chic high fashion of the day, and Franco's close relationship with fine art — as well as his eye for innovation — welcomed comparisons to Elsa Schiaparelli over the years. The label’s work essentially mocked the industry even as its hand fed Moschino, with the founder emblazoning shirts with slogans such as “Good taste doesn’t exist” or embroidering jackets with the phrase “Waist of money,” while the theatrical shows were positioned with an undercurrent of critique.

Today, the Metropolitan Museum of Art holds two vintage Moschino handbags in its collection: one shaped like a milk carton and the other an iron.

“Under all the surface witticisms, [Moschino] had a serious knack for running class pieces through a wringer of irony or Surrealism,” observed Vogue. “Chanel-isms were his favorite trope, though he also poked fun at Jean Paul Gaultier’s lingerie dressing and put out pasta bags in a parody of the Prada accessories craze.”

Accessories, jeans and the first men’s collection were presented at the Regal Palace in Milan in 1985, with his Moschino Jeans womenswear collection following in 1986. Then Moschino released Moschino for Women, its first fragrance, the next year in Europe.

In 1988, long before brands had considered the concept of a spin-off, Moschino bowed its cheeky diffusion line for men and women, Moschino Cheap and Chic, during the shows in Milan. The label thrived, adding its first stores in Italy and campaigning for eco-friendly fur. Its retrospective-slash-fashion show “X Years of Kaos” in the early 1990s benefited a children’s AIDS organization.

After Moschino’s untimely death at the age of 44 from AIDS complications, Rossella Jardini, his longtime friend and colleague, took the reins. She carried the torch for nearly 20 years, adding eyewear, watches and jewelry. American designer Jeremy Scott was named creative director in 2013.

Scott, who grew up on a farm and once unveiled a collection of evening dresses charred with burn marks, imbues all his work with a message of inclusion, be it his Fast Food collection in 2014 (hot dog dress included) or Moschino Barbie.

“I don’t care if the critics don’t like me,” Scott told Vogue. “I want to be the people’s designer, like Diana was the people’s princess.”

Find vintage Moschino clothing on 1stDibs.

Vintage and designer backpacks do more than carry our books, notebooks, electronic devices and other possessions to and fro. They are also a reflection of personal taste and style. Whether it’s an understated solid color — black backpacks will remain forever timeless — or it’s emblazoned with a dazzling graphic pattern or an iconic fashion house’s logo, a backpack makes a statement.

In 1908, decades before the JanSports and Eastpaks of the world materialized, Norwegian Ole Bergan crafted the first backpack, whittling and shaping a juniper branch to support a robust canvas rucksack on his back. Twenty-five years later, the patent on Bergan’s wildly convenient and functional accessory expired, and backpacks became popular with hikers, campers and other outdoor enthusiasts as other designers and companies scrambled to develop their own iterations. During the late 1930s, the first zippered backpack appeared — for students, it was a significant improvement over carrying their books with a leather belt.

Some designer backpacks are sleek and sporty, while others attract attention with flashy brass hardware and a textured exterior flap. While the innumerable handbag lovers of our modern times continue to gravitate toward iconic labels — classic bags still rule — today’s shoppers are savvier and have a wider range of shopping options. Backpacks designed by universally renowned brands such as Gucci, Dior and Burberry are similarly alluring when it comes to finding the perfect carryall.

Heavy-duty nylon backpacks or those made with polyester are likely the most common, but many alternatives can be found in canvas, leather and suede. The best backpack for you might be one that is modest in size and discreet, and thus ideal for carrying a few items. If that sounds like what you need, explore crossbody bags and messenger bags, as they’re a bit easier to access and you don’t have to remove the bag to get to its contents. Others may seek a bag that is spacious enough to fit all of the supplies for an overnight hike, in which case, a sturdy, structured backpack might be a better fit.

Whether it is for fashion, function or both, there is a backpack suited to every individual. Find yours in the extensive collection of vintage and designer backpacks on 1stDibs.